Here at Perfume Society HQ, the first few glimpses of sunshine and we want to bask like lizards. After what felt like the Winter that never ends, how glorious it is to see the fresh crop of Summer-ready scents making their way onto the shelves!
The eye-popping colours of Jo Malone London‘s vibrant (practically neon-bright) new Tropical Cherimoya Cologne couldn’t help but catch our attention, but what exactly is this intriguingly named ingredient?
A fruit-bearing tree renowned by the Inca people, home for the cherimoya plant turns out to originally have been Columbia, Peru, Ecuador and Bolivia, later spreading across the Andes and Central America. You probably have heard of it before, but perhaps by its better-known name of the ‘custard apple,’ so-called because of the creamy texture and particular sweetness of the flesh.
Mark Twain called the cherimoya ‘the most delicious fruit known to men’, with the botanist Seeman (and we’re not making this name up, I swear) chiming in by declaring, ‘if I were asked which would be the best fruit, I would choose without hesitation, cherimoya. Its taste, indeed, surpasses that of every other fruit, and Haenke was quite right when he called it the masterpiece of Nature.’
Awash with juicy, totally tropical temptations, the opening has the freshness of a traditional Cologne, then becomes almost milky, swirled through with a pear-like note and grounded in utterly scrumptious creaminess. Think of a passion flower glorying in sunshine, warmed by rich resins and a lightly smoked background of black tea.
Jo Malone London Tropical Cherimoya Cologne £95 for 100ml eau de Cologne
Tropically fragrant, exotically charged and part of the limited edition Hot Blossoms range, if you’re feeling like us (off to look at holiday deals and wondering if comfortable flip-flops exist) you’d best make haste to stock up for the heat, because they’re all selling like hot… well, blossoms.
Ever wondered how the world’s most powerful (and glamorous) people actually smell? Well settle down for a tale that involves a president, his brother, a sarcastic socialite, a butler and a beautifully presented (we think very sharable) sensational scent…
The Story: ‘One night during the summer of 1937 in the French Riviera (Côte d’Azur), Albert Fouquet, a young socialite and perfume connoisseur, met an American student who was touring France: John F. Kennedy. Within minutes of being introduced, the vain JFK was captivated by the essence that Albert wore. John’s charm and congeniality persuaded Albert to leave him a sample of his cologne with a note at his hotel the following morning:
‘In this bottle, you will find the dash of French glamour that your American personality lacks.’
(The shade of it all! Rather daring to address one of the Kennedy’s in such a manner, but we guess if you were a particular kind of socialite, such cutting remarks were part of your stock in trade…)
Eight & Bob continue the story by describing how, on returning from vacation, ‘Albert received a letter from JFK thanking him for the fragrance and informing him of its success amongst his friends. He requested that Albert send him eight samples, “and if your production allows, another one for Bob”.
The order wasn’t fulfilled until Philippe, the family butler, found beautiful glass bottles in a Parisian pharmacy for the cologne to be housed in. Albert ordered several boxes with the same pattern as the pinstripe shirt that JFK was wearing when they met, and then labeled the bottles and boxes with John’s request: “EIGHT & BOB”.
A few months later, Albert began receiving letters from America with requests from various Hollywood directors, producers, and actors such as Cary Grant and James Stewart. Everyone wanted their very own piece of “EIGHT & BOB”.
In the spring of 1939, Albert died in a car accident near Biarritz (France). Philippe, the only person who could create and handle the orders, continued Albert’s legacy and in his final shipments hid the bottles inside books to prevent the Nazis from seizing the cologne.
The Fragrance: Decades later, thanks to the family of Philippe, the formula for “EIGHT & BOB” has been completely recovered, along with its carefully crafted production process. Once again, it has become one of the most exclusive colognes, worn and desired by the world’s most elegant men and women…’
Top notes: pink pepper, cardamom, lemon
Heart notes: violet leaf, labdanum, dry woods
Base notes: sandalwood, amber, vetiver
The Review: A warm tingle of pink pepper ripples through breezy lemon infused with the cool, aromatic cardamom. A whisper of green violet leaf cuts through the resinous sensuality of the heart, leading to a musky, woody trail that’s devastatingly suave. Think sneakers worn with an impeccable suit, tanned skin and crisp white shirts worn with minimal accessories and a dazzling, heartbreaking smile.
The Special Edition: To mark the 50th anniversary of Robert F. Kennedy’s death, Eight & Bob have partnered with the Robert F. Kennedy Foundation, ‘a prestigious and internationally recognised organisation managed by Kerry Kennedy, daughter of RFK.’ What’s more, they will donate a percentage of the revenue received from this special edition fragrance to the foundation, ‘as a tribute to RFK’s dream of a more fair and peaceful world.’
Eight & Bob RFK Special Edition £110 for 50ml eau de parfum
Buy it at harveynichols.com
Yardley London are an iconic fragrance house, their heritage supposedly reaching all the way back to the reign of King Charles I, but The Great Fire of London in 1666 wiped out the records so we put the founding date at 1770. You can read far more whispers of this house’s fascinating history in The Scented Letter Magazine’s Best of British issue, but whatever the true date – we can all agree the name of Yardley has been around, like, forever. And instead of merely resting on that good name, it seems they’re ready to shake things up a little…
Showcasing a brand new collection of vibrantly contemporary, utterly wearable fragrances inspired by precious jewels, we were seriously impressed at their quality – learning at the launch that each fragrance has been composed by a prestigious perfumer – and with a with a seductive campaign fronted by ‘rock royalty’: one-to-watch, Tigerlily Taylor, daughter of Queen‘s drummer Roger Taylor.
The new style icon stars in an attitude-fuelled ultra-glam (and totally modern) film shot by world-famous photographer RANKIN (scroll down to watch it, below…) revealing Yardley London’s The Collection – perfumes aimed at bright young things of today who want to wear something unusual, but don’t want to pay the earth for the privilege! Priced within the reach of most people’s pockets, at £25 for 50ml eau de toilette, it means you can try the whole range without winning the lottery first.
So, let’s have a sniff…
Developed for Yardley by renowned perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglu (who’s the nose behind fragrances for L’Artisan Parfumeur, Coach, Jimmy Choo and Yves Saint Laurent among many more) this simply sparkles with a dewy fresh, green floral bouquet ‘inspired by the striking vibrancy of the yellow sapphire, with a burst of cheerful, energetic top notes of dewy green leaves and apple unravels into hyacinth and white rose at its heart, drying down to warm base notes of sandalwood and musk.’
Juliette says: ‘I created this fragrance from memories of how a field of daisies smell, an abundant nature through elegant green leafy notes, the freshness of the air and the dewy mornings through its petal notes of roses and hyacinth. I worked on balancing the freshness, vibrancy of the notes and their sensuality to create a fragrance as varied as life itself.’
Rosie Ruby Domitille Bertier‘s the perfumer, here (she created Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb, with Olivier Polge and Carlos Benaïm, and fragrances for Thierry Mugler and Hugo Boss to name just a few!) ‘An edgy, head turning fragrance that exudes the beguiling beauty of the pink ruby stone with ripe fruity top notes of mandarin, pear, peach and cassis, folding into an assertive heart of pink pepper, peony, rose and orange flower water, balanced by a soft, warm base note of cedar wood, sandalwood and vanilla.’
Domitille says: ‘I wanted to create a unique and unforgettable scent that gives confidence to every woman from the first spritz. I am proud of the combination of peony and pink pepper – a beautiful blend of raw materials! The floral bouquet is textured with fruity and spicy facets, which bring a modern touch contrasted with a creamy woodiness of sandalwood. The fragrance becomes addictive and creates such a sensual trail.’
Juliette’s the nose for this one again, composing a ‘sophisticated, sparkling and uplifting sheer floral fragrance representing the brilliance and magnetism of the diamond with refreshing top notes of pear and bergamot, enveloped in a sweet, subtle note of honey with an elegant heart of rose, peony and lily of the valley, enhanced with a sensual base of cedar wood, sandalwood and vanilla.’
Juliette says: ‘I created this fragrance to express all the facets of a rose in a contemporary way. Rose is a very stimulating flower, always reinvented, always inspiring. Poppy Diamond has the brightness and brilliance of Damascenian roses in the Turkish fields, the light woody and subtle honey undertones for enhancement to give more power, femininity and sheer sensuality of one of the most captivating flowers.’
‘An addictive, intense and feminine floral woody fragrance, inspired by the irresistible beauty of the amethyst, blending pear, lemon and bergamot with basil in the top notes with a sensual heart of fig, peach, black pepper and heliotrope complemented by a warm, woody and spicy amber base.’ multifaceted floral woody fragrance inspired by the enchanting allure of the amethyst crystal. Exploring the trend for gender-free (anyone can wear them) floral woody scents, Nelly Hachem-Ruiz is the up-and-coming perfumer (best known so far for creating David Beckham Beyond), and here developed an intriguing blend of ‘fresh pear, lemon and bergamot with basil in the top note, leading into a sensual heart of fig, peach flower, spicy black pepper and powdery heliotrope, complemented by a skin soft, warm, woody amber base.’
Nelly says: ‘My goal for this fragrance was to create a memorable scent that fuses fresh and deeper sensual notes together in perfect harmony. This is a highly textured fragrance combining spices, herbs, florals and cologne notes around a heart of indulgent, creamy fig.’
Flora Jade Anne-Sophie Chapuis is the perfumer behind two of the Comme des Garçon ultra-trendy fragrances, and was chosen here to compose ‘a sophisticated chypre bouquet that celebrates a popular olfactory trend in fine fragrance. The name Jade also pays homage to Sea Jade, Yardley’s ground-breaking fragrance of the 60’s. Crisply green, this floral chypre ‘captures the bold, exuberant spirit of the jade gemstone. Fruity, aromatic green top notes of peach, bergamot and galbanum blend with an airy floral bouquet heart of rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang and orris, delicately wrapped up in base notes of patchouli, sandalwood and moss.’
Anne-Sophie says: ‘I love chypres, which I consider to be the most sensual and sexy olfactive family and the most sophisticated. I have created a modern crisp green fresh-floral chypre that captures the bold, exuberant spirit of the jade gemstone. I wanted to create something airy, delicate, with a natural, earthy bouquet.’
‘I’ve inherited this incredible legacy and I want it to live on,’ Kate Evans explains, somewhat hesitant but with a glow that hints at how proud she is to have not only been bequeathed the award-winning London perfumery her mother, Anglea Flanders founded, but also marking the first fragrance she has created herself: the truly lovely, Lawn.
To be sure they were big scent-shoes to fill, and as the first perfume to be launched in the new era for the house it could be nothing less than a tender tribute to all Kate’s mother held dear, and yet full of Kate’s own personality, too.
Angela Flanders say: ‘Lawn captures the image of a dewy, green garden seen through gauzy lawn curtains stirring in the breeze before the heat of the day scorches through. To conjure that calm, fleeting sense of newness, Kate chose fresh top notes of black pepper and bergamot, while sappy-green galbanum and earthy patchouli evoke plants fresh with dew. Tuberose, jasmine and lemon balm at the heart unfold with the warmth of the wearer, just as the sun simmers through a misty dawn.’
A former television costume designer, Angela Flanders started her eponymous Colombia Road perfumery in 1985, ‘In the early days, we worked together in her studio. As a fledgling business it was very hands-on,’ Kate recalls. As Kate opened her own fashion boutique, Precious, (just up the road from her mother’s perfumery) the close collaboration of mother and daughter became even stronger. ‘Whenever Anglea created a new fragrance, she’d call me in,’ and Kate explains she felt the more she learned about perfume, through watching (and smelling) her mother first-hand, she suddenly found she had ‘…become her second nose.’
When Angela sadly passed away on 2016, she left not only a remarkable legacy but a renewed responsibilty for Kate, who felt, she admits, that she had to do her apprenticeship all over again. ‘I had a lot of re-learning to do, so for eighteen months I immersed myself in Angela’s formulas, getting back in touch with her methods and retraining my nose.’
Vicci Bentley was a long-time friend and admirer of Angela Flanders’ work (and had worked on a previous perfume with Angela herself) as well as being an award-winning fragrance writer and expert; and, it turns out, had a hand in encouraging Kate to continue the perfumery by working on her own composition.
These gauzy mornings
there’s a reason why you push your bed pillow-close
to the open window so that the cool, the light
bathes you awake five o’clock and eager
to leave diseased dreams and watch
the calm, silver sheet of the
dawning lawn catch the
unhurried tumble of
a petal’s feather curl
for in the blink of that first, not-quite time
you still believe in the lightness of your footfall
stepping out onto the fresh, the wet
beneath your soles, between your toes;
inhaling silver, tasting green as
each liquid call in the chorus
trickles down to touch the
newness in you
until the truth of the day scorches through
~ by Vicci Bentley
‘Mum always loved sensual fabrics, so as a tribute to her I’d been toying with the idea of creating a fragrance based on cloth, texture and touch. With its dual meaning of of mown grass and floaty, diaphanous fabric, Lawn was the perfect catalyst,’ Kate believes.
And yes, there’s a real sense of fine white cotton sheets, freshly washed and hanging out to dry already in the first glimse of the morning sun, of sheer muslin curtains gently rustled by a breeze. Dewy freshness trancends the notes from top to bottom as green galbanum melts like morning mist, revealing a swift twist of pepper-speckled jasmine blossoms, ethereal, translucent tuberose and cooling lemon balm. Wearing this feels like strolling through a garden at dawn, wet moss beneath bare feet, the heat of the day teasing with tendrils, and an earthy patchouli to ground the base.
‘I wanted to come to the perfumery fresh and find my own way with it. The concept for Lawn was something we didn’t already have in the collection.’
‘I’m immensely proud of what Angela created and honoured to take on the perfumer’s role now. Sometimes, when I’m in the studio, I feel she’s looking over my shoulder.’
And we’re sure that Angela Flanders would be immenseley proud of her daughter, too…
Angela Flanders Lawn £65 for 50ml eau de toilette, £75 for 30ml eau de parfum
Want to try some more of Angela Flanders fragrances? We’ve got three stunning scent ‘trilogy’ collectionsback in stock! Mini sizes, beautifully boxed, they’re perfect for travelling – and for trying something new.
It’s rare for Chanel to release a new fragrance, so when we heard there was an intensified of Coco Mademoiselle launching, we were hoisting the flags. Ushered into their suave Bond Street showroom, we were taken through the fragrance journey and got ready to plunge into the deeper, darker and even more captivating version of the original…
Perfumer Oliver Polge has constructed his composition around a far higher proportion of patchouli leaves atop a richly resinous amber base, swirled through with toasty tonka bean and addictive vanilla in their absolute (strongest) form.
Lovers of the orginal need not fear – your dose of Sicilian orange and Calabrian bergamot is still there, as are the fullsome garlands of rose and jasmine in the heart. It’s a tribute to Polge’s mastery that each element can be identified, but the character is definitely more mysterious, wavering between the freshness and a mischeviously seductive trail that lingers all day.
While in the showroom – surrounded by balloons and a grand piano, no less! – we were honoured to be among the first to see the new advertising campaign, once again starring Keira Knightley (incredibly, the muse of the iconic perfume for more than a decade, now) who cavorts and pillow-fights her way through what looks like the best party ever. Embodying the spirit of Coco Mademoiselle Intense, the film shows Knightley effortlessly transitioning from sophisticated modernity to exuberantly playful – just as we feel while wearing it…
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Intense from £82 for 50ml eau de parfum
Mischeviously irreverant Etat Libre d’Orange were the fragrance house megastar fashion designer Roland Mouret chose to collaborate with on his first fragrance – Une Amourette.
We went along to a private launch in Mouret’s flagship Mayfair boutique to find out more, and it’s every bit as fabulously naughty as you might hope…
It may not be the first fashion designer/fragrance house collaboration, but it’s definitely the only one we know of where the designer suggests spraying it between your thighs! Mouret explains: ‘A seductive fragrance – it’s a powerful scent that makes and leaves its mark as you move. You’ll want to wear it at the pulse point between your thighs and as you walk, cross your legs… the warmth and friction unleash an aroma that will capture your attention through the most primitive sense : smell.’
Well, we can’t say we followed this advice at the launch itself (a fragrance ritual probably best undertaken in the privacy of your bedroom, we feel) but it’s a rather compelling suggestion and we may have to try this for ourselves. Courtesans were well known for employing similar scent-seduction tactics in the 18th Century, so perhaps it’s about time we gave it a go. Roland Mouret say: ‘Infusing the sweet smell of neroli essence with traces of cardamom, this sensual fragrance opens with spicy notes of pink peppercorn, before revealing an earthy undertone of patchouli oil enriched with vanilla, that gives this fragrance a tantalising fin.’ Intrigued? Why not watch the man himself explain more, as Roland Mouret talks about working with Etat Libre d’Orange…
Talking to Roland at the launch, he went on to explain that he wanted Une Amourette to smell like ‘the scent of the other [your lover] on your skin…’ We may have blushed. But what a perfect juxtaposition – the mingling of two people’s warm skin, along with a Cologne and a decadent perfume, in one scent. Mouret also talked about the scent memories of his childhood, growing up in France, the smell of chic people mingling with voluptuous bouquets of flowers and drifts of incense from the churches he attended.
On the more usual pulse point to test perfumes – our eager wrists – then, here’s how it smells:
It begins like a lover’s caress, the sense of entangled sheets and warm skin, unmistakable carnality with indolic white flowers and roses scattered across the bed. Bone dry, the spices make their presense known immediately, with cardamom lingering throughout and a peachy succulence and creamy vanilla peeping above the naughtiness, somehow rendering them all the more provocative, like a glimpse of bare flesh beneath velvet coverings. A cool breeze of iris feels infused with a metallic shimmer, and the opoponax (incense) smooths the way insouciantly for an animalic dry-down of akigalawood that lasts the whole day through. Roland Mouret Une Amourette by Etat Libre d’Orange from £82 for 50ml eau de parfum
Buy it at rolandmouret.com
Written by Suzy Nightingale
With bottles that wouldn’t have looked out of place on Marie Antoinette’s dressing table, the French perfume house Parfums de Marly definitely have that aristocratic je nes se quoi about them, and the bottle for their latest fragrance, Delina Exclusif, may be the most ravishingly regal of all!
It’s to the famous ‘perfumed court’ of King Louis XV we are transported to… Parfums de Marly say: ‘The XVIIIth Century was the indisputed reign of King Louis XV. France was the flagship of fragrances, with Grasse and Paris as its leading places. Everyday, the king requested a different scent for his apartments and streams of aromatic scents sprang from the royal fountains. Renowned for its scent extravagances, the court was named “la cour parfumée” (the perfumed court). The best fragrances of all time were invented during this era by the king’s dedicated perfumer ‘Jean Fargeon’.’
You can read more about that perfumed court, the history and inspiration behind the house of Parfums de Marly, on our page dedicated to them. But for now, let’s hit the (fabulously decadent) bottle…
The delicate pale matte-pink puts us in mind of rosebud lips and faintly flushing cheeks, and topped with a silken rope swag – tassled of course – it hints at the beguilingly feminine fragrance within…
Described as a grown-up twist on the original (which launched last year), the top notes shimmer with bergamot, pear and lychee (in place of the fruitier rhubarb) before descending elegantly to a veil of smokily refined incense, amber and vanilla in the base. From ten minutes in we found it transformed from a come-hither look across a ballroom to a swish of heavy satin across the polished wood and then a full-on candlelit encounter and the aftermath, with powdered wigs askew.
One to be worn by budding Courtesans and those well-versed in the language of fans, we feel – and firmly plant ourselves in this category. Parfums de Marly Delina Exclusif £210 for 75ml eau de parfum
Exclusive to Selfridges
Written by Suzy Nightingale
Globally renowned for their fine time pieces, Swiss watch-makers have long been considered the best in the world, with the house of Franck Muller now complementing their luxurious wares with an exquisitely made collection of fine fragrances…
Frannk Muller are famous for their ‘bold designs, creativity, originality and expertise to produce exclusive timepieces characterised by complicated movementscommissioned the UK fragrance house CPL Aromas to create the perfumes, working with leading perfumers, Beverley Bane (for those of you who attended our Perfume Society Patchouli-mania event, Beverley was the perfumer who spoke so engagingly about her work there!) Julie Pluchet and Dominique Preyssas. Beverley says: ‘The intricacies of watch making match the art of creating a fragrance. Perfumery creativity is about precision, balance and using the best quality materials available to produce exquisite fragrances. Franck Muller is dedicated to finding the best materials and the best craftsmen to create watches that push the boundaries in beauty and technology.
Fragrances are complex and precise creating a whole that is beautifully balanced, rounded and full of character. Each fragrance like a Franck Muller watch tells a story- from the best Italian citrus oils in the top note through to heart notes of hand-picked floral absolutes and finally exotic resins priceless and precious woods.
CPL’s Aromafusion technology links beautiful classic perfumery materials with modern cutting edge technology pushing the boundaries of perfumery, much like a Franck Muller timepiece.’
Encompassing five eau de parfums, each fragrance in the collection was inspired by a famous Franck Muller watch design, the bottles themselves following the Cintrée Curvex shape that is the brand’s trademark elegant silhouette. What’s more, fusing the finest raw materials with CPL Aromas’ unique and exclusive Aromafusion™ captive ingredients means that ‘…the fragrances can never be copied.’ Color Dreams – The wonderfully bright pastel colours of the lively dial inspired the perfumer to create a kaleidoscope of celestial notes evoking the East. Crazy Hours – The watch breaks all the rules of watchmaking – to reinterpret the way to look at time which inspired the perfumer to create an intense contrast of crispy citrus and a sensual wood accord to provide an unexpected sophistication. Double Mystery – This exuberant watch replaces the hands with jewels concealing time in luxury with distinguished elegance, which inspired the perfumer to create hidden richness and splendour using the most luxurious ingredients. Aeternitas – Is the most complicated watch in the world, and will keep time for 999 years. This inspired the perfumer to create a long-lasting and very complex perfume. Conquistador – The dark masculine character of this watch inspired the creation of an extremely sensual perfume with unorthodox authority. CPL Aromas say: ‘When master watch-makers meet master perfumers, both accustomed to working with complexity and precision, combined with beauty and fascination, the outcome was bound to be interesting…’
Vartan Sirmakes, co-founder and CEO Franck Muller Group, commented: ‘I am delighted to be launching the Franck Muller perfume, bringing together two masters of their respective fields, the union of the most creative worlds of Haute Horlogerie and Haute Parfumerie. A fitting partnership which also marks the 25th anniversary of unending development, craftsmanship and innovation, and truly represents the identity of Franck Muller.’ Frank Muller Parfums £170 for 75ml eau de parfum
Available at Jovoy Mayfair and now, Fortnum & Mason
Written by Suzy Nightingale
Simply named Trudon, the new perfume line hailing from heritage-rich house of Cire Trudon, takes three of the world’s top perfumers – Lyn Harris, Antoine Lie and Yann Vasnier – and challenges them to new inspirations in fine fragrance. Taking the themes of religion, royalty and revolution, five fragrances reveal contemporary chapters: in each scent, one natural ingredient is allowed to take centre stage. Utterly intriguing, and completely sharable no matter your gender, we couldn’t wait to find out more…
Part of Cire Trudon’s collaborative ethos is to work with unique talents, promote creative freedom and showcase artisanal expertise. Handpicking three of the best perfumers was therefore a considered choice. And even the way they were given the brief was unique from the very beginning… As Trudon explain, ‘Individually given a brief by a sophrologist, each nose was taken to a Parisian landmark; chosen for its evocative meaning; each venue catalysed singular ideas and sources of inspiration.’
As one may expect from such a perfectionist design team, the attention to detail and harmony of the packaging is simply stunning. The 100ml bottles evoke the design of Cire Trudon’s scented candles. Created by Pauline Deltour, even the rippled-glass cap echoes the elegant silhouette of La Promeneuse, their diffuser that melts scented wax cameos in a ceramic dish over a candle’s flame.
But enough of the preamble, we wanted to get our noses stuck in! Bruma Top Notes: black pepper, lavender, galbanum Heart notes: violets, purple peony, iris, jasmine sambac Base notes: labdanum, Haitian vetiver, tonka bean Trudon say: ‘Bruma (“solstice” in Latin) is intrinsically tied to the sun. And to royalty. An icy solstice, Bruma feeds on the moon and the forest to evoke the inner metamorphosis of a character in contact with the nature surrounding her.’ Antoine Lie says: ‘A noble figure leaves the comfort of her rooms on horseback at night to discover a part of herself in another, nearly supernatural place. Her appearance is evoked by the notes that transcribe her femininity as well as her elevated rank. The rider crosses a clearing, passing from the half-dark into the nocturnal light, shrouded in mystery, enigma and a distinguished sensuality that is almost animal-like. Her beauty is suddenly revealed by a spiritual energy.’ Olim Top notes: bergamot, lavender, anise Heart notes: pink peppercorn, clove Base notes: patchouli, benzoin, myrrh, musk Trudon say: ‘Olim (Latin for “once”) recalls the first four registers of the old Parliament of Paris, including the numerous texts and laws delivered to the King’s court between 1254 and 1318 under different reigns, particularly St. Louis (1214-1270). Olim shines light on the evolution of royal power and the decline of 13th-century French feudalism.’ Lyn Harris says: ‘A spirit, a veil of elegance, and beauty… the scent is full of history. Better still, it has the power to reveal history. Cold notes, reinterpreted in a modern way leave a lasting impression in those around and purity on those who wear it.’ II Top notes: green leaves, orange bigarade Heart notes: pines, pepper, juniper Base notes: cedar, incense, Ambroxan, Cashmeran Trudon say: ‘II is the alliance par excellence, the unique link that ties two beings together. II transcends and calls to the pious, revealing its fragrance like an emerald impulse.’ Lyn Harris says: ‘This perfume’s vibrant greenery is a forest painting: pines, juniper and cedar covered in moss and berries on a damp, earthy floor. ￼ is a modern take on eau de Cologne; a green, peppery scent with orange bigarade from Brazil. It’s something for everyone that unites and brings two people together.’ Révolution Top notes: elemi Heart notes: angelique Base notes: cedar, papyrus, patchouli, cade, incense, pure cistus, opoponax Trudon say: ‘The streets of Paris during the French Revolution, an odour of smoke and musket powder. Rage and intense emotions on the faces of the crowds. Houses are afire, the cobblestones awash in oil, sweaty riders are robed in black leather. A touch of incense softens the air, suggesting peace is near.’ Lyn Harris says: ‘Révolution captures a moment in his- tory, a period when smells were raw and prevailed everywhere. History is alive in this composition where smoke, wood, leather and incense reign. Yet modern elements in the formula let the scent breathe. A form of harmony is born out of these contrasting notes, leaving an elegant, clean, smoky wood-scented backdrop that remains on the skin.’ Mortel Top notes: black pepper, pimento, nutmeg Heart notes: Somalian frankincense, Mystikal, Virginia cedar Base notes: pure cistus, myrrh, benzoin Trudon say: ‘The artist, living between shadow and light, is a mortal creature. Halfway between the religious and the revolutionary, with an unquenched thirst for eternity, Mortel is a revolutionary drive that combines virile force and natural harmonies. A fatal attraction.’ Yann Vasnier says: ‘A winter’s night. A heavy metal door opens on a huge room. A man appears in the distance; intense heat and light are pulsing from a forge. Light is reflected on the skin and gestures of this man, who is engaged in a rite: standing in front of the blaze, his eyes seek a form buried in the magma before he can recreate it in the open air. The furnace throws giant, moving shadows. In the midst of his activity, sleep finally overcomes the fiery eyes of the artist-craftsman.’ We say: This is a perfume collection we’ve been waiting in fragrant anticipation for ever since we first heard about them, and suffice to say, we weren’t disappointed! Remarkably refined, characterful yet with restraint, these are scents to see you through the seasons and to be fully explored by trying them all on the skin. With such a stellar line-up of noses behind them, and Cire Trudon’s history, it’s hardly surprising the frgrance world is going gaga for them…
Rather fittingly for a campaign inspired by memories, there’s a definite retro hint to Trussardi‘s latest launch, Riflesso – something we at The Perfume Society tend to call ‘sexy man smell‘ – but done so in a modern way. The bottle follows the same lines, in fact – vintage chic with contemporary cool. The leathery-ness comes through in soft waves through a misty fougére style top-half of the fragrance. Think cool herbacious breezes and tumbles in heather-strewn hills with a man wearing a leather jacket atop a cashmere sweater…
And when you’re done thinking about that (take your time – we certainly did) why not feast your eyes on the fabulous ad campaign starring model Andre Hamann, below?
We had to watch the campaign several times to check the quality, but feel assured our hard work has been worthwhile. You’re welcome. Trussardi say: ‘With its woody and oriental notes of bergamot, pink grapefruit and green apple, Trussardi Riflesso tells the story of a man who considers sport a lifestyle. Life is not a competition, but an expression of self-confidence, which is shown through notes of geranium, violet leaves and lavender, before making a nod to tradition with olfactive hints of Italian leather, vetiver and tonka bean.’
Scroll down for a Q&A with perfumer Véronique Nyberg to find out more about the inspiration and composition…
Want even more? We’ve been given access to the behind-the-scenes footage from the advertising film and campaign, with all images shot by photographer/director Mark Segal telling the story of the new Riflesso world, and which we’re thrilled to share with you, here…
Senior Perfumer Véronique Nyberg was chosen to compose Riflesso, and took time to answer some questions regarding her inspiration and the way the fragrant ingredients were chosen. She began by discussing
What inspired your creation?
‘I was inspired by leather – an iconic symbol of Trussardi’s heritage that is part of its DNA. Leather is masculine and sexy. It can be rough or soft, and it’s very versatile. That was the starting point for my creation combined with other fine materials able to represent Trussardi’s signature style, dynamism and tradition.
It’s been fascinating, almost like being in a movie! Adrenaline, motorcycles, sports cars, a classy environment, Italian landscapes, family warmth, and the beauty of the Trussardi tradition. Everything inspired me in this sophisticated yet dynamic world, which I interpreted by using the finest materials and latest technologies, such as the innovative Jungle Essence that was part of the uniqueness of my creation.’ How do you describe the head notes?
‘A burst of freshness and pure energy, thanks to the sparkling notes of Italian citrus fruits and crisp undertones of green apple.’ And the heart?
‘It is a modern interpretation of style, where elegant traditional masculine elements such as geranium, violet leaves and lavender are reinterpreted from a different approach to the Jungle Essence technique that provides a subtler version of the lavender flower.’ On the dry down…
‘It is the quintessence of Trussardi’s trademark elements: precious woods like vetiver for refinement, soft leather for its unmistakable quality and tradition, and a hint of tonka bean for sensuality.’ Why was tonka bean used in the base?
‘It’s sensual, warm, and smooth with an addictive touch that blends perfectly with the vibrancy of woods and the texture of leather. I couldn’t ask for anything better to complete the fragrance and make it a stylish tool for seduction.’
How do you define Riflesso?
‘The Italian lifestyle: an ability to enjoy life with class and enthusiasm…’
Trussardi Riflesso from £47 for 30ml eau de toilette
Exclusively at Debenhams
Written by Suzy Nightingale