Escentric Molecules M+ – why more is MORE (and how the cult house continue their scent revolution)

Escentric Molecules M+ fragrances are a trio that’s once again revolutionising the world of scent. It all began with the cult Molecule 01 – the iconic scent that can be said to have kickstarted the obsession with niche fragrance, and of course made us more aware of the genius behind aroma molecules and why ‘synthetic’ isn’t a dirty word.

If you’re new to the Escentric Molecules world, you might like to start by reading exactly how they started (and why Geza was so dedicated to trying something new – and quite shockingly brave at the time!) in our page dedicated to everything Escentric Molecules.

TL;DR: Schoen shook up the perfume world by creating a scent with one ingredient – an aroma-molecule non-existent in nature, called Iso E Super. Ultra-smooth, swoon-inducing, gently musky and vanilla-like, the synthesised ingredient had already been used since 1973 by perfumers in small doses – though it remained an industry secret: that special something that made a fragrance utterly irresistible.

Now it’s time to discover how more can be even more, and why you need these in your life, because as perfumer Geza Schoen himself puts it:

‘Molecule 01 is an exceptional molecule: radiant, velvety, cocooning. It’s mysteriously effective on its own, but I started to wonder if there might be another way to play with it. What if I could take the molecule and add just one other beautiful ingredient and see how they danced together in the bottle?’

Molecule 01 + Patchouli – has a cool, rather aloof woodiness to it.

Molecule 01 + Iris – iris is luxury, with a creamy powderiness.

Molecule 01 + Mandarin – radiates off the skin, with a citrus zing.

You could begin your fragrant journey with the M+ Discovery Set, where for only £20 you can explore each of these new fragrances at home. A brilliant gift idea to treat someone else, too! But when you’ve smelled them, we know you’re going to swoon for at least one, and then there’s nothing else for it but to decide which full-size bottle you’ll treat yourself to. We’re absolutely thrilled that not only did Escentric Molecules ask us to help launch their fragrances, but you can now buy the full-size M+ collection in our Perfume Society shop.Escentric Molecules M+ Patchouli £95 for 100ml

Geza says: ‘Patchouli is a unique natural. Unlike 99% of perfume ingredients we associate it with a particular period, with the sixties and seventies and that bohemian spirit. It has a cool, rather aloof woodiness to it. I love it for its moody beauty.

I’ve used two qualities of patchouli here. The biggest chunk is Patchouli Coeur which is a very clean, soft patchouli oil fraction with the camphor-like topnote removed. I have also included a patchouli oil from Indonesia to round it out with a little bit of a topnote.

The result is a sophisticated, clean patchouli that pairs fantastically well with Molecule 01.’

Escentric Molecules M+ Iris £95 for 100ml

Geza says: ‘It’s not easy to describe iris’ smell as such, but if you smell a fragrance without it, and then with it, you understand immediately what it does. It adds a creamy powderiness. It brings a physical dimension to a fragrance.

I have had a long-standing love affair with iris. Every Escentric fragrance has an iris note somewhere in there. To me, iris is luxury. The iris pallida absolue I’ve used here is one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery. You can find iris extracts for way less than that. But they do not have the great and subtle beauty of this absolue. It’s radical to put this much in a fragrance. The sillage is fantastic. This is a bomb, but a subtle bomb.’

Escentric Molecules M+ Mandarin £95 for 100ml

Geza says: ‘Mandarin is all about the instant hit. It’s so alive, the way it radiates off the skin with that citrus zestiness. But there’s more to mandarin, it’s very fruity and aromatic as well. It’s a beautiful ingredient. Its transparency means that it vanishes quickly. I’ve touched it up with a little extra shading to extend it, adding a mandarin ingredient used in flavourings to give it super-juiciness. Then as it begins to fade, Molecule 01 syncs in, bringing a warm, erogenous feeling to play with that zinging freshness. That’s unusual – for a topnote ingredient like Mandarin and a base note like Iso E Super to dance together naked like this, without other notes coming between them. And then the mandarin is almost gone and you are left with the elevated simplicity of Molecule 01.

That’s what I love about Molecule 01 + Mandarin – it may be a dance of two but the story changes completely from beginning to middle to end.’

So, the only thing to do for this journey or Escentric Molecules M+ discovery is to put that first foot (nose?) forward, and find out which molecular pairing ‘dances naked together’ best on your own skin…

Escentric Molecules M+ exclusive webinar launch (watch here!)

Escentric Molecules M+ is an incredible NEW trio, incorporating their iconic Molecule 01 with iris, mandarin and patchouli, respectively, for the most fabulous fragrant results. Now, you can purchase your own M+ Discovery Set and sniff-along online…!

We just know you’re going to fall (hard) for all three of these Escentric Molecules M+ fragrances, and what better way to introduce them than let Geza guide your nose while you exolore them on your own skin…?

 

 

As if we weren’t excited enough at hearing of the M+ range, imagine the squeals of delight when we learned Escentric Molecules had chosen to launch them LIVE with us, during a webinar in which Geza Schoen, the genius perfumer and founder of the house, talked through the M+ fragrances with our co-founder, Jo Fairley, and our subscribers. Those who’d purchased tickets were sent an M+ Discovery Set and a Zoom link, to join in the live sniff-along.

As you can imagine, those tickets and boxes sold out in record time (this was a rare opportunity after all!) but we’re so happy to inform you those M+ Discovery Sets are available to purchase, and we’re sharing the sniff-along video, below – so whenever you purchase your box, you can open and explore with Geza and Jo in your own time, woohoo!

 

 

During the video, Geza shares his inspirations, explain how he chose the ingredients to pair with Molecule 01 for the new M+ collection, and reveal his passions for the world of perfumery, and answering some of the many questions our subscribers wanted to ask him.

 

Escentric Molecules M+ discovery set

 

Molecule 01 + Iris  Geza says: I have had a long-standing love affair with iris. Every Escentric fragrance has an iris note somewhere in there. To me, iris is luxury. The iris pallida absolue I’ve used here is one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery. You can find iris extracts for way less than that. But they do not have the great and subtle beauty of this absolue. It’s radical to put this much in a fragrance. The sillage is fantastic. This is a bomb, but a subtle bomb.

Molecule 01 + Mandarin  Geza says: ‘Mandarin is all about the instant hit. It’s so alive, the way it radiates off the skin with that citrus zestiness. But there’s more to mandarin, it’s very fruity and aromatic as well. It’s a beautiful ingredient. Its transparency means that it vanishes quickly. I’ve touched it up with a little extra shading to extend it, adding a mandarin ingredient used in flavourings to give it super-juiciness. Then as it begins to fade, Molecule 01 syncs in, bringing a warm, erogenous feeling to play with that zinging freshness. That’s unusual – for a topnote ingredient like Mandarin and a base note like Iso E Super to dance together naked like this, without other notes coming between them. And then the mandarin is almost gone and you are left with the elevated simplicity of Molecule 01.’

Molecule 01 + Patchouli  Geza says: ‘Patchouli is a unique natural. Unlike 99% of perfume ingredients, we associate it with a particular period, with the sixties and seventies and that bohemian spirit. It has a cool, rather aloof woodiness to it. I love it for its moody beauty. I’ve  used two qualities of patchouli here. The biggest chunk is Patchouli Coeur which is a very clean, soft patchouli oil fraction with the camphor-like top note removed. I have also included a patchouli oil from Indonesia to round it out with a little bit of a top note. The result is a sophisticated, clean patchouli that pairs fantastically well with Molecule 01.’

Escentric Molecules M+ Discovery Set £20

By Suzy Nightingale

Escentric Molecules M+ – a trio of NEW fragrances! Molecule 01 + naturals

Escentric Molecules have just today launched THREE M+ fragrances – iterations of their best-selling Molecule 01 – a fragrance that first showcased the artistry and depth of synthetic aroma molecules and changed the face of the industry forever.

As pefumer and founder Geza Schoen says, ‘‘Molecule 01 is an exceptional molecule: radiant, velvety, cocooning. It’s mysteriously effective on its own as Molecule 01, But I started to wonder if there might be another way to play with it. What if I could take the molecule and add just one other beautiful ingredient and see how they danced together in the bottle?’

That perfumed pondering has led to three brand new explorations of Iso E Super – each of them blended with naturals, because, as Geza says, ‘Only naturals have the complexity and radiance to work in a dance of two like this, while maintaining the simplicity of the concept.’

We’re thrilled to be launching the M+ collection during a live event tomorrow, when our Co-Founder, Jo Fairley, will be putting your questions directly to Geza, but for now, let’s dive into the whole thought process and let Geza explain more…

 

 

1. As a brand that has always launched in binary pairs, this is a real change for Escentric Molecules, what made you want to do this triptych?

‘It’s three fragrances by accident. Not by any particular design, but as I started to work on the project I realised
I was considering a base, a heart and a top note. M+ mandarin gives you a huge top note experience, M+iris highlights the heart as M+patchouli emphasises the base note, all the fundamental roles of a fragrance.’

2. Why now?

‘It’s actually another accident! It all started with my partner’s wish for the best possible singular iris note within a fragrance. She asked me to create this for her. I thought about it for a while and then decided to add very little else
to the iris combination used so as to not detract from the powdery beauty of the orris root absolue itself. The simple
inclusion of Iso E Super with the orris blew us both away. M+ iris was born. Even then, I didn’t immediately think of it as a Escentric Molecules fragrance. It was only after experiencing Sophie wearing it and the reaction she got from others that the concept of developing it for commercial release formed in my mind.’

3. How did you choose the + elements for the fragrances?

‘From the reaction Sophie’s Iris fragrance got, I started to think about other combinations that may work in a similar minimal marriage. I experimented with many, deciding on patchouli as it is probably the ultimate, elegant woody
note in perfumes, M+ mandarin was chosen for it’s almost shocking aromatic zesty boost, using this particular mandarin oil that is just so beautiful.’

4. You have some very loyal molecule fans who have been with you since the beginning – how do you think
they will react to this, or have they been asking for something like this?

‘No one particularly asked for this. Making it available as an EM product is just a continuation of our principles that we
only release products when we have something that we love and believe has to be released.„..’

 

Escentric Molecules M+ mandarin

‘Mandarin is all about the instant hit. It’s so alive, the way it radiates off the skin with that citrus zestiness. But there’s more to mandarin, it’s very fruity and aromatic as well. It’s a beautiful ingredient. Its transparency means that it vanishes quickly. I’ve touched it up with a little extra shading to extend it, adding a mandarin ingredient used in flavourings to give it super-juiciness. Then as it begins to fade, Molecule 01 syncs in, bringing a warm, erogenous feeling to play with that zinging freshness. That’s unusual – for a topnote ingredient like Mandarin and a base note like Iso E Super to dance together naked like this, without other notes coming between them. And then the mandarin is almost gone and you are left with the elevated simplicity of Molecule 01.

That’s what I love about Molecule 01 + Mandarin – it may be a dance of two but the story changes completely from beginning to middle to end.’

Escentric Molecules M+ iris

‘It’s not easy to describe iris’ smell as such, but if you smell a fragrance without it, and then with it, you understand immediately what it does. It adds a creamy powderiness. It brings a physical dimension to a fragrance. I have had a long-standing love affair with iris. Every Escentric fragrance has an iris note somewhere in there. To me, iris is luxury. The iris pallida absolue I’ve used here is one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery. You can find iris extracts for way less than that. But they do not have the great and subtle beauty of this absolue. It’s radical to put this much in a fragrance. The sillage is fantastic. This is a bomb, but a subtle bomb.’

Escentric Molecules M+ patchouli

Patchouli is a unique natural. Unlike 99% of perfume ingredients we associate it with a particular period, with the sixties and seventies and that bohemian spirit. It has a cool, rather aloof woodiness to it. I love it for its moody beauty. I’ve used two qualities of patchouli here. The biggest chunk is Patchouli Coeur which is a very clean, soft patchouli oil fraction with the camphor-like top note removed. I have also included a patchouli oil from Indonesia to round it out with
a little bit of a top note. The result is a sophisticated, clean patchouli that pairs fantastically well with Molecule 01.’

If you loved the original Molecule 01 and want to join the M+ fragrant adventure – or if you’ve yet to discover – we can tell you this: it’s an incredibly beautiful and diverse trio with something that everyone call fall for…

By Suzy Nightingale