Continuing our Scents of Occasion series celebrating late spring and early summer events in fragrant form, our focus now is for Epsom Derby Ladies Day. A spectacle of elegance, colour, and tradition – a day where the air is charged with excitement and the senses are awakened by the theatre of racing and fashion. What better way to mark the occasion than with a fragrance that evokes the very spirit of the occasion?
Here, we explore scents inspired by the leather of saddles, the lush green turf, and the shimmering silks of both jockeys and racegoers. Why not let your scent be even more memorable than your hat – and may your day at the Derby be a fragrant triumph…
Leather – The Saddles
Maison Crivelli Oud Stallion
A gallop of saffron and cardamom, smoky oud and supple leather – the thrill of the race, the warmth of sunlit saddles, and a whisper of rose in the wind.
Incense and pink pepper crackle above a heart of leather and oud, with rose and carnation lending a velvet touch, musky and magnetic as the winning stride.
Hay and grass, leather reins, a ripe peach savoured mid-ride; vetiver and tobacco smoulder as the stables echo with laughter and the promise of adventure.
Daffodil and fig leaf drift on a breeze of cut grass, water and vetiver; a green, dewy morning on emerald turf, soft woods grounding the wild, open air.
Mitcham mint and geranium awaken the senses, while fir balsam, cedar, and holy grass conjure petrichor and the magnetic hush just before the race begins.
Try in their Discovery Set (all three Vallense fragrance samples for £21)in our shop
Silks – The Gowns and Colours
Creed Queen of Silk
Osmanthus and magnolia shimmer over tuberose and passion fruit; vanilla and incense trail like the swish of a silk gown, regal and irresistibly soft.
Neroli and petitgrain float above gardenia, jasmine, and fig; a sunlit silk scarf fluttering in the breeze, warm amber and sandalwood glowing gently on the skin.
There’s something inherently magical about a garden party: the gentle clink of glasses, laughter floating on a breeze, and the air alive with the scent of fresh blooms and cut grass.
While many of us picture these joyous gatherings taking place in our own back gardens – surrounded by familiar flowers and cherished memories – the beauty of fragrance is its ability to transport us far beyond our fences.
In this special edit, we celebrate perfumes that evoke the spirit of the garden party, whether rooted in the English countryside or whisking us away to sun-dappled groves and grand estates abroad.
Join us as we explore a selection of scents that capture the essence of alfresco revelry, inviting you to travel via your nose to garden parties both near and far…
Kingdom Scotland Botanica
Kingdom Botanica was a passion project for founder Imogen Russon-Taylor, who told us: ‘When I moved to Edinburgh and had my first child, I’d walk with my pram through the gardens every day. I saw them through all the seasons, as my maternity leave progressed, and the gardens always gave me such an incredible sense of peace and tranquillity.’ Having been given access to botanic samples carried over by Darwin on the Beagle, Botanica is a scented tribute to ‘all the botanists, scientists and adventurous Scottish plant hunters of the past, present and future’, created with the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh. Think blackcurrant meets pine needles, herbaceous verdancy and a soothing woodiness that hugs its borders. Glorious!
For this one, let’s imagine we’re attending a garden party in Italy (how fabulous!) and are sauntering beneath the shade of citrus groves – the sparkle of their zest filling the air, the whole trees appreciated, from leaf and stem to trunk and earth, and of course the abundance of luscious, sun-warmed fruit. The house say: ‘Vert Empire from Mizensir is inspired by the beauty of the Mediterranean, the abundance of lemon and orange trees basking in the sunshine. Uplifting in composition with aromatic intensity and zest. Essence of mandarin and petitgrain conjure the beauty of citrus fruits yet to be harvested, the freshness of the Mediterranean is represented with paradisone, a floral citrus note, with a hint of cardamom. The scent allows you to travel amongst the Italian groves with hints of woody notes, sandalwood and ambrox, angelica and sage.’ Oh let’s grab our passports and go, shall we?!
Firmly on home ground for this garden party, we imagine bunting gently fluttering in the breeze, cloudless blue skies, bumblebees droning and afternoon teas. Perfumer and founder Sarah McCartney explains the inspo best, saying: ‘We were invited to make a midsummer scent for a 2013 charity evening in Ealing, West London, using plants and flowers named in Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream, so we imagined the scenes taking place by Pitzhanger Manor on Ealing Green, and created the aroma of a magical summer evening. Its perfect for wearing in the heat. It starts with a wander through the herb and flower gardens of Walpole Park, takes in a picnic on the grass and ends up lying on the lawn by the pond, staring at the clouds floating by, smelling the warm earth.’ Just about the perfect English summer’s day, bottled, we’d say.
For this party, we think of a grand house, and an elegant lady flitting from the hubbub for a moment of contemplation in the wilder part of the garden. Her taffeta skirt brushes hedges and flower borders along the way, and as dusk settles the scent of the garden is carried in swirls and eddies around her, like an invisible shawl to match her light-shifting gown. As Angela Flanders beautifully evoke: ‘A dewy top note of hyacinth enhances the delicate notes of iris and rose in the heart of Taffeta. A touch of smoky vetiver, calamus and civet in the base add a sophisticated depth as the perfume warms and opens on the skin. Taffeta captures the early evening when dusk starts to fall, and we prepare to embark on an evening adventure. The elegant dry and mysterious quality of silk taffeta, which appears to change with the light, is the inspiration for this elusive and elegant perfume.’
A right royal garden party, this one, which Penhaligon’s explains as having been inspired by the unique atmosphere of this treasured place: ‘In Summer, Highgrove Gardens hum with a smell often described as earthly sunshine’ they say, continuing: ‘The grass bows to weeping silver lime, mimosa, and cedar.’ Captured quite literally (using Headspace Technology) the linden blossom in this beguiling scent glides through a fluffy breeze of of that mimosa, grounded in the cedar, and enlivened by citrus. It’s a radiant delight to wear at any time, of course, but really comes into its own when wafted forth during the summer – the very season it seeks to capture in scented form. Incredibly, this wasn’t a mere ‘inspired by’ project. Highgrove Bouquet was created with HRH King Charles III (then The Prince of Wales), in part as a tribute to the magnificently fragrant summers he’s spent at his beloved Highgrove Gardens.
Whether you’re hosting friends on the lawn, daydreaming beneath a shady tree, or simply longing for a moment of escapism, these garden party perfumes promise to conjure the joy and splendour of outdoor celebrations with every spritz. From the comforting familiarity of homegrown blooms to the allure of distant, fragrant landscapes, let your senses lead you on a scented adventure. Wherever your garden party takes place – be it close to home or in the wildest corners of your imagination – these fragrances ensure the festivities are always in full bloom.
With the Notting Hill Carnival on the summer event horizon, and the weather (touch wood and crossing fingers) currently glorious, we are feeling rather overcome by a need for sultry, sassy scents which echo the Carnival spirit. So many ways we could go with this, but let’s plump for perfumes which are built around a ravishing rum note.
Now, slip on those spangled and feather-bedecked costumes and sashay your way to sniffing some of these…
An unexpected mix of piquant, spice-infused bergamot and plum with a ‘your-skin-but-so-much-better’, creamy leather dry-down, the warmth of the rum gets jiggy with a tingle of amber, then simmers for hours. The roller-ball bottle makes this especially useful for travelling (if you’re lucky enough) or touching up your scent, even if you’re shaking those hips in a Carnival parade!
An irresistible combination of rum, leather and tobacco is sprinkled with a sweet frisson of vanilla and a tingle of warming cinnamon – the effect quite spellbinding. The rum-enriched woodiness is both reassuring and playfully addictive while the rich spiciness instills confidence and daring. The overall impression? Those who follow your (feathered) fragrant trail will be left enchanted…
Initio Parfums Privé Side Effect£230 for 90ml eau de parfumharrods.com
‘Defined by an exhilarate rum distilled from sugarcane and aged in oak barrels’ the party really gets going when that silky smooth booziness is joined by the exotic glam of passionfruit. A vivaciously sparkling scent, the rum heart is additionally glammed up with gardenia, all resting on an amber wood base that melds with the heat of your skin, and making this a veritable cocktail party in a glass to samba with.
Paying homage to English gentleman and pirate Sir Francis Drake, Pirates’ Grand Reserve puts an intoxicating spin on an Atkinsons fragrance with accord of fine cask rum. Paired with cocoa bean and cedarwood, this one practically swaggers out with every spritz. Topped with a perfect posy of floral notes and rounded off with a deep, dark vanilla pod and patchouli, it’s never too heavy yet totally character-filled.
Atkinsons Pirates Grand Reserve£158 for 100ml eau de parfumatkinsons1779.com
The vibrant allure of an illicit after-party in a wood-panelled club is evoked here via a fizz of pink pepper, the brightness of neroli and lemon slinking to the rum-infused fun of the rich heart. There’s a shadowy coolness of vetiver oil from Java, a sense of refinement from the tobacco, and a sensually resinous vanilla base; but it’s the kind of night that will linger long in your memory, and your secret smiles…
Maison Margiela Replica Jazz Club£115 for 100ml eau de toilettemaisonmargiela.com
We’re still reeling from the dreamlike evening that was The Fragrance Foundation UK Awards 2021. Quite apart from the overwhelming emotion of seeing everyone (in the flesh!) again, and celebrating the continued success of fragrance – at a time it became more important to our everyday lives than some could ever have imagined; at The Perfume Society, we had not one, not two, but THREE very particular reasons to pop the Champagne corks…
The Fragrance Foundation say: ‘Known as the ‘Oscars’ of the fragrance industry, the 29th annual Fragrance Foundation UK Awards 2021 took place at The Brewery in the City of London. With a room full of fragrance lovers, it was a wonderful celebration after the unprecedented of times of the last 18 months.
The event was hosted by TV Presenter Natasha Kaplinsky, Chairman of The Fragrance Foundation UK Annalise Fard, and its CEO Linda Key Jackson. During the evening recognitions were given for the astounding support given during the global pandemic, from producing hand sanitisers, face masks, or donating to charities. With quick thinking and acts of kindness we have all come together.’
And come together we did, dressed in our finery (and footwear other than slippers or trainers), many seeing colleagues and friends for the first time outside of a Zoom call since the start of the pandemic. It’s difficult to express the outpouring of emotion, the buzz of energy and pure joy that coursed through the venue. A glow that grew stronger still when the entertainment began and internationally acclaimed act Björn Again had people up and dancing, whole tables standing together and swaying, arms in the air, smiling and singing.
Emotions bubbled to the fore again when Chairman Annalise Fard gave a heartfelt speech to the memory of Jim Jackson, who sadly died earlier this year. Jim founded Aspects Beauty with his wife, Jill, and Annalise spoke fondly of his wit, hard work and commitment to the industry. As the entire room raised a glass in his tribute, there wasn’t a dry eye (or wine glass, which he would have approved of) to be found.
The event now encompasses The Jasmine Awards – often likened to the Oscars, but perhaps more accurately ‘The Pulitzer Prize of perfume writing.’ We’d already been thrilled to be finalists with six pieces shortlisted in four categories. Imagine the WHOOPS that went up, then, on discovering we’d won two of those four categories, AND a Special Recognition Award for an entire issue of The Scented Letter Magazine – A Life in Scents!
This was a really important issue of the magazine for us, which we dedicated to everyone who’s lucky enough to work in fragrance – or who dreams of doing so. There’s so much that goes into taking a perfume from the spark of an idea, into the bottle and beyond. So for this edition we interviewed everyone from perfumers to distributors to the sales consultants who slip our purchase into a carrier bag for us to enjoy. We were extremely moved by Head Judge, Catherine Mitchell, saying how vital The Scented Letter Magazine is for industry in siders and perfume-lovers alike, and how she wanted every career’s advisor in the land to read it. We agree! So, we’re making it available for you to read in full.
HUGE congratulations, too, for our friends and colleagues who are the creatives behind the scenes in these incredible fragrance houses: perfumers, designers, marketing teams and retailers who went home clutching statuettes (Lalique, darling!) too. We raise a glass to each and every one of them, and urge you to seek out the scents behind their well-deserved wins…
Loudest whoops of the evening (apart from our own) we think were on the Floral Street table, and no wonder – the continued blooming of this innovative and, so importantly, eco-conscious independent British fragrance house is wonderful to see (and smell!) We were so proud, too, for Thomas Dunckley‘s sixth (!) award, and of Nafia Guljar, whose beautiful piece she wrote for The Scented Letter magazine on the scent of night blooming jasmine, and the precious memories it holds of her late father, was also shortlisted.
The Champagne may no longer be fizzing, but you can be sure our joy – and that of all the winners and worthy finalists – will be bubbling over for some time…
We’ll be discussing the launch of TWO new Moresque fragrances on the Instagram Live event, but meanwhile, here’s a little bit more about this wonderful house…
Moresque Parfum was born from a sheer love of the intricacy of Moorish art and the passion for elegant but opulent perfumes by founder, Cindy Guillemant.
Right from the start, she says, her work has been driven by this desire to bring together Italian taste and Arabic charm. ‘I completed my MBA in International Business in Florida and built my career between Monte Carlo, Paris, Miami and Milan. I always used perfumes, but my grandmother instilled in me a real love for fragrances and provided me with knowledge that motivated me to delve into this industry.’
That familial connection resounds still in Cindy’s work, and she finds that ‘I still rediscover my grandmother’s knowledge even today with all the scents I collect from around the world through their volatile notes, essences and the most mysterious and profound flavours.’
So, what questions would YOU like to ask Cindy – about Moresque Parfum, the stunning bottles, their inspiration, her favourite ingredients…?
We so look forward to you joining us on Instagram at 5pm on Wednesday July 14th at 5pm U.K. time for this exciting event. Until then, we’ll be spritzing the scents and dreaming we could travel to all the places they’re inspired by…
Normally, right about now, I’d be planning my annual trip to Florence, and the fragrance fair Pitti Fragranze. A meeting place for perfumers, founders, makers, buyers, brands, olfactory artists and anyone obsessed by scent; it’s always a highlight of my year.
It’s also a wonderful opportunity to sniff the not-yet-launched fragrances, see interesting new niche houses and spot possible perfume trends for the next few years ahead. You might like to have a look at my report from last year’s Pitti Fragranze, to get a sense of the scale of the event. It’s huge! And quite overwhelming. But always wonderful.
Of course, this is not a normal year, and any such in-person events have sadly been cancelled or postponed. But while I am mourning meeting up with fragrance journalists and fragrant friends from around the world; I am heartened that Pitti Fragranze have taken to decision to still run their fair, but as a virtual, online fesitval.
Along with events, talks, special guests, and focuses on new trends (all in English), do check out the complete calendar to see which you might wish to take part in. The various events begin on Monday September 7th – Monday September 21st 2020.
Being held online has the added benefit that perfume-lovers around the world can watch and join in the fragrant fun, so I suppose we must look to (scented) silver linings.
I will miss the gelato, though. There’s nothing that can console me; only hoping that I may return next year…
Having taken a virtual trip to the flower fields with self-hypnosis and meditated with a Love-Alchemist, for the next session on Tuesday 5th May sees (and hears) sound-healer Charlotte Hastings will teach you how to ‘experience your being through the language of sound.’ All with the fragrant backdrop of the stunning scents themselves.
And we’re rather fascinated with fragrance and music, currently, as you will find in our soon-to-be-published next edition of The Scented Letter Magazine. Watch (and listen to!) this space…
Founder Amy Christiansen Si-Ahmed has created a stunning portfolio of perfumes that reflect her life-long love of fragrance – nurtured on travels through the Middle East with her inspirational grandmother. As she told The Perfume Society: ‘The scents I’d encountered on my travels over the years were enchanting to me: the pure and golden shimmer of orange blossom, the mystical, enveloping depth of sandalwood, the seduction of jasmine blooming at night. I felt I could never find that captured anywhere on a department store shelf.’
The scents in the Sana Jardin collection really are strikingly beautiful – a magic carpet ride in every bottle. And – enhancing their feel-good factor – this socially-conscious, luxury fragrance house offers flacons created entirely from recycled glass, along with a sustainability program to help the Moroccan women who pick the orange blossoms used in several of perfumer Carlos Benaïm‘s stunning creations for Sana Jardin.
But don’t just take our word for it, why not explore the collection yourself, from the comfort of your home? Allow yourself to experience the bliss of a scented sanctuary…
If you’re a perfume lover (and we suppose you are, since you’re here!) then we know you’re going to love an historical Perfume Walk through London’s vibrant, heritage-rich Mayfair…
On March 21st, Perfumedaze are going to be sauntering through the world of scent, taking in the sights and smells of London’s historic fragrance houses, led by the very knowledgable Olga (who we often see at out own Perfume Society events, as she’s a long-time and very enthusiastic member!) So although we’re not organising the walk, we very much wanted to flag it up for fellow fragrance addicts.
Says Olga: ‘The perfume walk is an invite to have a glimpse of London history through perfumes, their creators and people who wore them. The tour takes about three hours during which walk we will visit heritage perfume shops and find out the exciting history of old English brands like Floris, Atkinson’s, Penhaligon’s and Grossmith. We will have access to places usually closed to public, like the Museum at Floris and the Georgian Suite at Atkinsons.
Floris offers an opportunity for a real time travel. The shop has been occupying the same premises for 290 years and is still run by the same family. Among his clients there are royals, famous people, actors and even literary characters. The visit to Floris also gives a chance to discuss what a unisex fragrance mean.
Atkinsons, meanwhile, is a real phoenix of the perfume industry connected to the king of English fashion Beau Brummell as well as Russian Royal Family, Queen Victoria and Sarah Bernard. We will also be walking on the street once famous for Turkish baths where William Penhaligon created his first fragrance. And the tour will finish in the mecca of modern perfumery, Jovoy Mayfair, where we will discover secrets of main perfume ingredients and discuss pros and cons of naturals and synthetics.’
All the details you need to know are on the Eventbrite ticket page, but the basics are that the walk is March 21st, 11am–2pm, and tickets cost £20 (non-refundable).
Traversing from the oldest houses still proudly proferring perfumes in the Captial, right through to exploring some of the most modern fragrances around – think of this as a way to time travel with your nose.
Fragranced candles don’t get much hotter than Jonathan Ward‘s… metaphorically speaking, of course, but we were wowed from the very first time we smelled them.
You see, British candle maker and fragrant auter, Jonathan Ward, likes to do things differently. Having begun in the fashion world and created fragrances for others, Ward crossed over to the light side with his own fragranced candle house at last, and now has perfumistas filling their own homes with his scents.
As you might imagine, we’ve had our noses on a fair few scented candles in our time. The Perfume Society offices are contstantly aglow (candle-light is so flattering to the features, don’t you think? Especially when you’ve lost that post-holiday glow!) and currently we have Halcyonic wafting its magic. Inspired by the Bright Young Things of the ‘roaring 20s’, we felt it was just the thing to have burning after watching the Downton Abbey film. And as you’ll see, below, even the wayhe describes the notes feels like the an entire world and cast of characters, captured in scent…
Top
Steam Iron Lapel, Smoked Lipstick Kiss, Tea Rose, Amber Heart
Crab Apple, Honeysuckle, Prickle Pear, Wet Jasmine Base
Black Amber, Black Salt, Tuxedo Musks
Fragrance expert Stephan Matthews regularly cites Ward’s creations among his favourite in the whole world (and as we know, there’s a lot of candles out there!) and recently caught up with this coolest of candle makers to discover his scented heritage. We Wear Perfume, meanwhile, fell madly for the literary and mythological inspirations behind the brand, waxing lyrical (sorry, couldn’t resist) about the ‘complex and captivating stories for his artful scented candle collection that are akin to miniature novels.’
Indeed, these are no ordinary candles – Ward creates scented spaces into which we can escape at the flick of a flame. He likes to ‘…ignite the olfactory legacies bequeathed by artists, visionaries, prophets and poets—bringing fresh light to their thoughts and ideas.’
Where we think these candles excel is the fragrances have just as much complexity (and time spent on them) as a bottle of personal perfume. In fact, Ward admitted to We Wear Perfume that he sometimes dabs a bit of the fragrance oils he composes for the candles behind his ears, apparently even combing a bit through his beard! But be in no doubt: here’s a man who takes the compositions of these scents really, really seriously.
Another point of difference is the added benefit of the candles being completely clean-burning – Ward is one of the founders in the promotion of natural waxes, with the wicks attached using an artisan candle technique that fixes them without using glue or resin.
We’re not talking about pouring some already created scent into some wax and adding a wick, here. We mean blending your own custom scent using professional perfumer’s accords, then practice making your very own candle; from mixing the oils to pouring the wax it’ll be a hands-on experience (and a new life skill).
The workshop will be led by the immensely talented Jonathan Ward himself, who will undoubtedly share invaluable candle-related knowledge throughout the day. This will be an unforgettable workshop where guests will enjoy refreshments and take home their personally scented Jonathan Ward candle, along with being offered an incredibly generous and exclusive discount of 15% off Jonathan Ward products on the day.
Tickets for this unique day’s custom candle course are £65 and can be purchased here:
Saturday 5th October 2019 Times: 11.00 am – 2:00 pm Venue: Johnathan Ward Candle Studio, Regent Studios, 8 Andrews Rd, London E8 4QN
How we love a pop-up, especially when it’s got beauty and perfumes a-go-go! How exciting, then, for the duration of London Beauty Week, a Beauty Playground will pop up on Covent Garden’s East Piazza, inviting visitors to discover and experience the best of the beauty and fragrance industry.
‘Weleda Skin Food will bring their Nice Cream Van to the Beauty Playground, dishing delicious ice cream over discussions about the brand’s ethical and sustainable ethos. Miller Harris will serve up bright neon, bespoke illustrations – and ice cream via their exclusive pop up – and will reveal two new vibrant fragrances: Blousy and Brighton Rock. Floral Street Fragrance will bring magic to The Beauty Playground with a spinning prize wheel, where visitors can take a spin the wheel to discover their perfume persona. Showcasing their new Eau du Parfum range, Molton Brown will offer fragrance consultations and a bespoke Beauty Bar will also be in situ courtesy of Miami export Buns & Buns, serving up Bottled Beauty cocktails designed in partnership with Molton Brown, inspired by the brand’s classic scents and presented in their signature bottles.
Subscription-based beauty brand Glossybox will delight beauty fans with an exclusive beauty treasure hunt around the estate. Those who find the hidden golden tickets on the Piazza on Wednesday 11th September and Thursday 12thSeptember will be taken to a beauty store within Covent Garden’s Beauty Quarter to collect one of ten exciting prizes. Prizes will be worth £100 or more from brands including NARS, Miller Harris, Atelier Cologne and more.
London Beauty Week is on a mission to discover Next British Beauty Brand and is hosting a competition to offer start-up beauty companies the chance to win expert beauty business mentoring and a central London retail space. The judging panel includes some of the most influential names in the UK beauty industry including senior executives from The British Beauty Council, Covent Garden, WGSN, Harvey Nichols and Felix Capital. The winner will receive mentoring from two British Beauty Council trustees, a pop up store in Covent Garden – London’s Beauty Quarter, a listing in Harvey Nichols Beyond Beauty, financial mentoring from Felix Capital and a year’s subscription to WGSN Beauty – the world’s leading trend forecaster. Participants can visit BritishBeautyCouncil.com to sign up, ahead of the judging panel which will take place on Friday 13th September.
Brands across Covent Garden will join the celebrations and offer late night shopping and exclusive events for Londoners and visitors for the duration of London Beauty Week. Beauty lovers can pop into Aesop’s stunning King Street store, which will be adorned with fresh flower arrangements, for a bespoke skincare consultation, or visit Chanel on Friday 13thSeptember or Saturday 14th September where illustrator Melissa Bailey will be on-hand to capture the results of the brand’s incredible express services. Jo Malone London will host an exclusive cocktail evening on Thursday 12thSeptember and a special Poppy & Barley Flower Arranging Masterclass, led by expert florist Wild Things, over London Beauty Week weekend. Those who love the glamour of the runway should reserve a space at Tom Ford who will be serving Metallique inspired cocktails to an intimate group and providing a demonstration on how to achieve Tom Ford catwalk looks.
Additional in-store events, experiences and installations can be enjoyed across Covent Garden beauty brand favourites, including Atelier Cologne, Miller Harris, Molton Brown, Ted Baker and Trevor Sorbie and The Alkemistry. Covent Garden is home to London’s best beauty brands and experiences, further including Dior, NARS, Deciem, Penhaligon’s, Aesop and more, making it the perfect destination to host London’s inaugural London Beauty Week.’
Be still our beating hearts. Ice cream and perfume and prizes, you say? We’ll be there faster than you can shake a stick (of rock!)
