It is a thrilling time in British perfumery – indie brands gaining retail spaces, and hosting hugely popular pop-up shops. There’s a huge amount to celebrate, and whereas in times past, it was only France and Italy people traditionally tuned for their fine perfumery, the niche world has shaken that gap wide open and allowed the creativity and beauty of these British brands to truly shine through.
Here are just four of the fragrance houses painting a portrait of Great Britain in perfumed form…
A uniquely Scottish fragrance house established in 2019 by perfumer Euan McCall and designer Chloe Mullen. With a refined sensibility for creative compositions grounded in classical perfumery, the Edinburgh-based Jorum Studio presents a continually evolving interpretation of contemporary scent.
Fragrant Example: Spiritcask£89 for 30ml extrait de parfumjorumstudio.com
Pear, new-make whisky and chamomile glimmer above ylang-ylang and malt, threaded with silky ribbons of cognac and jasmine. As the fragrance deepens, cocoa, maple and smoky caramel curl through oakwood, leather and bourbon vanilla, evoking the comforting warmth and quiet mystery of an ancient Scottish barrel, its spirited history lingering in every golden drop.
With a former career in Scotch whisky, Imogen Russon-Taylor founded the first fully Scottish fragrance house in 2018. Her vision? To ‘bottle Scotland’ – using perfume to share old narratives in new ways, tapping into the rich stories associated with perfume and natural ingredients proudly sourced in Scotland.
Fragrant Example: Botanica £150 for 100ml eau de parfum in the Shop
Crafted in partnership with the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, this pays tribute to the work, passion and pioneering spirit of botanists, scientists and fearless Scottish plant hunters past, present and future. Opening with the brightness of spiced plum blossom and pink pepper, it unfurls lush blackcurrant buds and green botanicals over a warm floral heart and grounding, woody base.
In 2019, Louise Smith set up a dreamy scented scenario of having her perfumery based within ‘a secret walled garden’, after extensive training in France, Italy and London, she felt confident enough in her own abilities, and ‘…eventually started my own perfume workshops here in Monmouth’s beautiful Wye Valley.’
This latest selection of scented offerings is ‘an olfactory journey through the ancient Celtic world, celebrating the tribes who shaped the identity of Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Cornwall, and Brittany. Each fragrance in this collection tells the story of a distinct Celtic people; their landscapes, their customs, their spirit…’
Having grown up surrounded by perfumery ingredients – her father an important player in the natural ingredients world, travelling the globe sourcing materials – it was perhaps unsurprising that Amanda Connock founded her own house. The extraordinary kukui oil formed the basis of an initial collection, now blooming into a glorious evocation of botanicals.
A breath of outdoorsy air – green and herbaceous, with notes of English rose and fig, blackcurrant, peppermint and eucalyptus, buffed by amber and sandalwood. Bodycare, haircare, home fragrance and eau de parfum can be layered to the max (and oh how glorious it is to wear in cooler months, now, for bracing freshness!)
Legend has it that geraniums first grew where the prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry in the sun (nice to learn that even prophets do their own washing – and take delight in a ‘good drying day’, just as we do!) And there are many other myths linked with geranium: they’re said to grow in pots near witches’ cottages, for instance (though we do not recommend idly passing on that fact to touchy relatives…)
We adore how versatile geranium can be as a note for perfumers to play with in their compositions, and as you can see from this curated patch of geranium perfumes we’ve picked for you: geranium scents can vary from ultra soothing and nostalgic, to utterly contemporary, with many an olfactive surprise to be found even from this note you may feel you know so well. Let’s dig in!
Geraniums exist in a great number of varieties, but in most varieties of geranium, the flowers have no scent. The scent molecules are contained in the leaves. For many of us, geranium has an incredibly nostalgic scent: the scent of a grandmother’s greenhouse, rubbing a furry-leaved plant between our fingertips. In fact, there are hundreds of species of geranium, with scents that conjure up many other plants: lemon, apple, lime, mint, orange, rose, citronella, camphor, pineapple, sage and more. The leaves and stems can be steam-distilled to produce oils, then, with quite different characters, depending on the variety.
Mostly, the type used in perfumery is Pelargonium graveolens or more commonly called the ‘rose geranium’: it gives a scent that’s similar to rose, but with a lemony twist, and less of the powderiness. The most prized geranium of all comes from the Ile Bourbon, with its rich, green, fruity-mint rosiness. With such complexity, in a single ingredient, no wonder many perfumers love it. But it’s also grown in Algiers, Morocco, and in Grasse, among other perfumery ingredient places.
Jo Fairley – editor of The Scented Letter magazine – has written a gloriously evocative feature, The Scented Greenhouse, on the nostalgic scent of geraniums in the just-published The Language of Flowers summer edition of our multi award-winning publication, where you can read all about an extraordinary project she was part of, in collaboration with C.Atherley (Cath Kidston’s new fragrant venture, inspired by being ‘wild about geraniums’) and The Chelsea Flower Show. So, do buy the gorgeous print edition to bury your nose in, or make sure you are signed up to receive a FREE copy of the digital edition in your inbox!
But for now, let us explore the fuzzy-leafed fragrances below, and delight in the scent of geraniums all over again…
Floris Ledger Series Rose Geranium
A poised waltz of classicism and quiet daring, this composition unfurls with the silken touch of geranium – its verdant, lemon-tinged brightness weaving through a tapestry of rose and palmarosa. The note is not content to simply echo rose’s familiar refrain, but instead pirouettes with a citrusy vivacity, buoyed by citronella and the gentle caress of rosewood. A cedarwood base anchors the airy floral heart, imparting a subtle, woody warmth that lingers like the memory of laughter in a sunlit conservatory. Here, geranium is the green thread that binds nostalgia to elegance, whispering of gardens both real and remembered.
A study in contrasts, this scent is a crisp boutonnière pressed against the skin – geranium at its heart, radiating a cool, almost minty clarity that shimmers with a touch of spice. Cardamom and pink pepper flicker around the edges, while tonka bean and vetiver lend an earthy, grounding undertone. The effect is both tailored and tender, as if a fresh-cut stem were slipped into a silk lapel. In this olfactory portrait, geranium is the pulse of green running beneath the surface, a breath of garden air in the midst of urban sophistication.
Sun-drenched and brimming with life, this fragrance captures the tactile joy of hands plunged into loamy earth. The dewiness of tomato leaf and green mandarin sparkles at the outset, but it is the geranium – lush and leafy, humming with a gentle bitterness – that conjures the soul of a summer garden. Patchouli’s earthiness grounds the composition, echoing the quiet satisfaction of a day spent among growing things. Here, geranium is the heartbeat of the garden, green and alive, a fragrant memory pressed between the pages of time.
Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Pour Homme Le Parfum Intense
Swagger and sensuality collide in a bold, intoxicating statement where geranium bursts forth in the opening – sharp, aromatic, and bracing as a bell. This green, almost metallic freshness is swiftly enveloped by the creamy richness of tonka bean, while sandalwood smoulders in the base, adding a sultry, velvety depth. The interplay is electric, a dance of cool and heat, with geranium providing the initial spark that ignites the senses, leaving a trail of intrigue and irresistible magnetism.
A modern ode to classic refinement, this fragrance is a masterclass in balance. Geranium – cool, green, and exhilarating – is elevated by the icy brightness of mint and the subtle sweetness of rhodinol. Spices of clove and cinnamon add a sophisticated warmth, while sandalwood and white musk create a silken, lingering finish. The composition is both invigorating and serene, a fresh breeze through open windows on a spring morning. In this creation, geranium is the architect of clarity, sculpting an aura of effortless elegance and contemporary poise.
What fragrance would Jane Austen have worn, we wonder? From delving in to the world of Regency perfumery in England, and exploring the historic houses proudly still thriving today, to exploring a contemporary niche house evoking one of Austen’s most famous heroines, we invite you join us in this fascinating slice of Regency scented reveries.
This year marks 250 years of Jane Austen’s birth, and the Jane Austen Society have a number of fabulous events planned to celebrate. But what perfumes might Jane and her contemporaries (and the characters in the novels) have picked up on a shopping trip in Regency London? You can click on the links to be whisked back in time to explore their brand pages, read their full scented stories and discover some of the original olfactive treats…
In spring 1799, an enterprising young man named James Atkinson set forth from the wilds of Cumberland for London. In his suit pocket were recipes for fine fragrances and toiletries he’d created himself. And next to him sat a generous amount of rose-scented bear grease balm. (Yes, really.) Even more extraordinarily, next to the balm sat a real, live bear who – so the tale goes – was utterly devoted to James. Mr. Atkinson opened a shop at 44 Gerrard Street, with Atkinsons being referred to as ‘that marvellous perfume shop with the most terrifying bear’. And James’s reputation was made… thankfully with rather more fragrant offerings. In 1800 launching a ‘fearlessly English’ eau de Cologne, which was strikingly different from the Italian-style Colognes: fresh, yes – but warm and spicy, too.
Yardley, too, has a proud (and VERY long) perfumed heritage, and happens to be named Yardley for the similarly feisty woman The firm has its formal roots in 1770, when the soap and perfumery firm known to us as Yardley London was established by the father of a man called William Cleaver. It got its so-familiar ‘Yardley’ name after a young woman called Hermia Yardley (daughter of the wealthy and ambitious businessman William Yardley), married William Cleaver – heir to his father’s soap and perfumery business. Young William persuaded Coutts Banking House to loan the business the sum of £20,000 (astonishing for those times), with his father-in-law as guarantor. When he couldn’t repay the loan, Hermia persuaded her father pay up – and thus, because of Hermia’s determinism and belief, Yardley came to be Yardley…
There’s some interesting snippets of information about Regency perfumery in the always-fascinating janeausten.co.uk, and they mention one of the U.K’s most famous (and still-thriving) perfumeries…
Floris. It’s an extraordinary chapter in British perfumery – even if its founder, Juan Famenias Floris, happens to have been Spanish by birth, travelling to London to seek his fortune. Step inside the shop at 89 Jermyn Street, then, and you are truly stepping into fragrance history. This is a house first founded in 1730, which is still operating out of its original premises, run by members of that same family. Many literary luminaries have graced the shop’s infamous customer ledger [Mary Shelley, author of Frankenstein and wife of the poet Percy Bysshe Shelley, wrote from abroad asking a friend to send in her next care package ‘two hairbrushes and a small toothbrush,’ from the store.] And in 1820 – the very end of the Regency era – Floris received its first of 16 Royal Warrants.
Meanwhile, modern perfume houses are very much infused with the spirit of literary inspirations – a subject we have often referred back to, and will certainly cover again, such is the extent of literature’s olfactory influence.
We were particularly thrilled when the always-creative house of D’OTTOsought scented inspiration in none other than Jane Austen as part of their Harrods-exclusive Literary Collection. [For reviews of the latest two Brontë fragrances by D’Otto, do see our soon-to-be-launched Summer edition of The Scented Letter magazine, and make sure you’re signed up to get your free digital copy as soon as it’s published!]
As D’OTTO explain:
‘The 1×8 Extrait de Parfum draws its inspiration from Jane Austen’s “Emma,” and her iconic quote,“Why did we wait for anything? Why not seize the pleasure at once? How often is happiness destroyed by preparation, foolish preparation!”
1×8 encapsulates the elegance, grace, and intelligence of Emma, the novel’s leading lady. Its lively notes recall the energy and vitality of youth combined with the romance and torment of a young woman as she grows up and her feelings mature.
A drop of this creation offers up lighthearted joy and the desire to discover the world. It is a testament to the irrepressible desire to experience every emotion intensely, with determination, passion, and self-confidence. 1×8 captures the essence of a daring soul, one that does not allow itself to be tamed by life’s challenges…’
So, which perfume might you plump for – to join in the costume parties, balls, games and literary gatherings celebrating Jane Austen’s 250th anniversary? (Or, of course, simply to wear when re-reading one of her still-sparkling novels) Might you be tempted by the modern evocation, or also want to explore the historic houses? In the spirit of Emma (and Austen herself), we say: dare to ‘seize the pleasure’ of several!
Fancy some grand perfumes suitable to scent a magnificent occasion? With a truly beloved royal ceremony taking place this coming weekend, we felt it was time to unfurl the bunting and fly the flag for fragrances that make any occasion feel extra special…
Every year, as the second Saturday of June arrives, London transforms into a stage of unparalleled pageantry. Over 1,400 officers and soldiers, 200 horses, and 400 musicians converge upon Horse Guards Parade in a spectacular display that has marked the Sovereign’s official birthday since 1748. The ceremony of Trooping the Colour stands as one of Britain’s most magnificent traditions, where precision, heritage, and grandeur unite in a symphony of scarlet tunics, gleaming brass, and thundering hooves.
Just as this annual celebration captures the very essence of royal splendour, here are some fragrances we feel bottle the spirit of excitement, colour and a dash of British eccentricity in olfactory form. Together, they curate a fragrant anthology of British style, each chapter written in a different olfactory hand yet all celebrating the same magnificent tradition that continues to captivate the world…
Thameen Fanfare draws inspiration from the vibrant flower market at Covent Garden, embodying what perfumer Bruno Jovanovic describes as ‘contemporary British aesthetic’ with ‘a touch of impertinence.’ This gorgeously fresh yet floral-filled Cologne elixir billows for hours, representing the spirit of modern Britain – sophisticated yet playful, traditional yet daring.
Atkinsons British Bouquet pays homage to Beau Brummell, the original dandy who pioneered the three-piece suit and defined sartorial elegance. It captures the essence of British refinement and the art of impeccable grooming that has defined British style for centuries, via citrusy top notes of bitter orange and caviar lemon with a heart of lavender, myrtle, and malt, and a base of leather and amber accords.
Currently £132 for 100ml eau de toiletteflannels.com
Penhaligon’s The Inimitable William Penhaligon celebrates the founder himself – a humble Cornish barber who ascended to serve royalty and built one of Britain’s most prestigious perfume houses. This woody composition with bergamot, incense, and Haitian vetiver represents the entrepreneurial spirit and craftsmanship that built British luxury.
Floris Mulberry Fig takes inspiration from St. James’s Park, one of London’s oldest Royal Parks, just steps from the brand’s historic Jermyn Street premises. This floral amber creation captures the tranquil grandeur of royal gardens, where fig trees tower over peaceful lakes amidst some of Britain’s most famous landmarks.
Jack Perfumes JACK represents the wit and irreverent charm of its creator, actor Richard E. Grant, who describes it as his ‘signature in scent’. This addictive blend of lime, marijuana leaves, mandarin, and vetiver embody that particularly British ability to be both utterly charming and cheekily subversive (much like Mr. Grant himself!)
As the final notes of the Trooping the Colour ceremony fade and the crowds disperse, these five fragrances remain as lasting tributes to pomp and ceremony in liquid form – whether through Thameen’s literal fanfare, Atkinsons’ heritage craftsmanship, Penhaligon’s intimate portraiture, Floris’s garden party elegance, or Jack’s irreverent charm. In wearing any of these remarkable creations, we can carry a piece of that ceremonial splendour in fragrant form – to any occasion befitting of such scented celebrations (be that a wedding, a grand dinner, or simply to the supermarket if we feel like it!)
Continuing our Scents of Occasion series celebrating late spring and early summer events in fragrant form, our focus now is for Epsom Derby Ladies Day. A spectacle of elegance, colour, and tradition – a day where the air is charged with excitement and the senses are awakened by the theatre of racing and fashion. What better way to mark the occasion than with a fragrance that evokes the very spirit of the occasion?
Here, we explore scents inspired by the leather of saddles, the lush green turf, and the shimmering silks of both jockeys and racegoers. Why not let your scent be even more memorable than your hat – and may your day at the Derby be a fragrant triumph…
Leather – The Saddles
Maison Crivelli Oud Stallion
A gallop of saffron and cardamom, smoky oud and supple leather – the thrill of the race, the warmth of sunlit saddles, and a whisper of rose in the wind.
Incense and pink pepper crackle above a heart of leather and oud, with rose and carnation lending a velvet touch, musky and magnetic as the winning stride.
Hay and grass, leather reins, a ripe peach savoured mid-ride; vetiver and tobacco smoulder as the stables echo with laughter and the promise of adventure.
Daffodil and fig leaf drift on a breeze of cut grass, water and vetiver; a green, dewy morning on emerald turf, soft woods grounding the wild, open air.
Mitcham mint and geranium awaken the senses, while fir balsam, cedar, and holy grass conjure petrichor and the magnetic hush just before the race begins.
Try in their Discovery Set (all three Vallense fragrance samples for £21)in our shop
Silks – The Gowns and Colours
Creed Queen of Silk
Osmanthus and magnolia shimmer over tuberose and passion fruit; vanilla and incense trail like the swish of a silk gown, regal and irresistibly soft.
Neroli and petitgrain float above gardenia, jasmine, and fig; a sunlit silk scarf fluttering in the breeze, warm amber and sandalwood glowing gently on the skin.
Penhaligon’s have entranced us with their Potions & Remedies perfumes, and they must have known that something was in the air… Have you noticed that feel-good fragrances are proving quite the hit the world of perfumery lately? It seems as though we are all wanting MUCH more out of our scent choices in recent years, with many of us now choosing fragrances based on our mood, and our emotional requirements, alongside wanting to smell amazing of course.
It’s in this spirit of sensorial ‘rescue remedies’ that Penhaligon’s created their Potions collection, and they have been rapturously received by perfumistas the world over for their utterly intriguing inspirations and, indeed, their stunning design. Penhaligon’s were among the esteemed winners of this year’s coveted Fragrance Foundation Awards for their brilliantly apothecary-esque aesthetic.
“For every ill there is a cure. For every woe there is a way. Penhaligon’s Potions & Remedies collection is distilled with potent powers to cure – or procure – altered states. Fancy a formula? Each fragrance harnesses the perfumed power or nature to instill some health, strength, and vitality into one’s life.”
Penhaligon’s recently-launched Potions collection offers fragrant remedies for modern living that evoke William Penhaligon’s experiments with aromatic concoctions. Beckon courage with Eau the Audacity, energise with Va Va Vroom, ignite desire with Liquid Love, banish worries with A Balm of Calm, or feel euphoric after a spritz of A Kiss of Bliss. Visit the website to explore them – it’s a truly joyous experience!
Eau the Audacity – ‘A bottle of boldness to cast off the shackles of shyness. Audacious orange blossom surprises vanilla and incense; how fancy! Spritz sparingly (or not – we dare you).’
Liquid Love – ‘A passionate eau de parfum to set hearts a-flutter. Spicy rushes of pink pepper, ginger and turmeric lock in fiery embrace with chilli and musk. Be warned: one spritz too many may cause swooning.’
Vra Vra Vroom – ‘Dash it all and make haste! An energetic blast of mandarin and magnolia, enthusiastic spoonfuls of osmanthus absolute. Spritz your way to success. Nothing shall stop one now.’
A Balm of Calm – ‘A lullaby of lavender, a cloud of geranium. Iris and sandalwood for a dose of composure; an instant serenity remedy. Rum and soft woods round off Penhaligon’s tranquillity blend. Heaven.’
A Kiss of Bliss – ‘Spritz those blues away with bergamot and green clover. Musk and rose sing from the hilltops: would one like to join? An eau de parfum borne from sunny days to have you dancing all night long.’
Penhaligon’s says: ‘William Penhaligon laboured for his legacy to be delightful. One to cure all ills, one that he and future generations would be rightly proud! You are about to discover the result of his travails… Discover five new fragrances filled to the brim with miraculous ingredients to boost your mood.’ All Penhaligon’s Potions£195 for 100ml eau de parfum penhaligons.com
Keen to learn more about Penhaligon’s fascinating history and the heritage of their perfumery house? Read all about how Penhaligon’s began, and how hey transformed, in our page dedicated to them…
Reviving nine archival scents for their thrilling new collection, The Ledger Series is a fantastic opportunity to wear some of the most truly iconic – and timeless – Floris fragrances…
The long-distinguished history of Floris first began in the dreams of one Juan Famenias Floris, who in 1730 sailed from his native Minorca to set up in London. Marrying an English girl, he settled in business as a barber on Jermyn Street within the fashionable St. James’s area, first making hair combs and then assuaging his homesickness by blending fragrant oils he’d transported from Europe. Customers soon took to ordering bespoke blends, all recorded in leather-bound ledgers, enabling Floris to re-create them should further supplies be required in the future – and thus a fragrant dynasty was born.
Many of those original ledgers, order forms and letters of thanks are still in existence, preserved by successive generations of the Floris family, and offering a uniquely fascinating glimpse of British fragrant taste through the ages. Their books boast orders from Admirals serving under Lord Nelson, Florence Nightingale, George IV, through to Winston Churchill. In 1820, Floris received the first of 16 Royal Warrants, the most recent being the title: Perfumers to HM The Queen Elizabeth II and Manufacturers of Toilet Preparations to HRH The Prince of Wales. (Now, of course, King Charles!)
And now, Floris have returned to their archive to revive NINE stunning fragrances from their archives, as part of The Ledger Series. Floris explain:
‘The Ledger Series stands as a testament to the passion and dedication of our perfumery team. This collection is a labour of love, bringing back nine fragrances from the Floris archive that were once discontinued. Meticulously delving into the original family formula books, our team studied and carefully revived these fragrances, ensuring they are preserving the timeless essence of Floris.
Utilising the authentic formulas and employing the finest available ingredients, our perfumery team diligently restored these classic scents within The Ledger Series. This exceptional collection includes Rose Geranium, Malmaison Encore, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Red Rose, Islay, Edwardian Bouquet, Soulle Ámbar and Stephanotis. Each scent, meticulously revived, encapsulates the essence of its historical roots, promising a sensorial journey through time and sophistication.’
You can read the full fabulous stories behind each fragrance in the links below, but for now, let’s explore the fascinating collection…
‘Rose Geranium was first introduced by Floris in 1890 when pink geranium was added to the existing Geranium fragrance. One of our most esteemed and loved clients was Marilyn Monroe, a star that has transcended time and captured our imaginations like no other. The characteristic notes of geranium are enhanced by the fresh citrus nuances of citronella and a hint of rose. A harmonious heart with an uplifting blend of palmarosa, the timeless beauty of rose, and the gentle touch of rosewood. A captivating heart that evokes elegance and grace leaves space to a simply woody base note accord of cedarwood. A grounded warm woody presence adds depth and sophistication to the delicate bouquet.’
‘Led by the legendary Sir Ranulph Fiennes, the historic Great Transglobal Expedition of 1979 embarked on a daring journey to the South Pole, meticulously tracing the Greenwich Meridian. Amidst this epic odyssey, Floris proudly supported the expedition with a suite of provisions, including our intrepid Sandalwood Eau de Parfum. Using the finest sandalwood oil from Mysore, the fragrance is enriched by a captivating blend of bergamot, rose, cardamom and black pepper in the top note, creating a harmonious and intriguing opening. Sandalwood reveals an enchanting heart with orris and star anise, infusing the scent with a mesmerizing blend of floral elegance and subtle spice. The smooth sandalwood scent is enhanced by warm musk’s and the allure of earthy notes of pachouli, creating a creamy and woody base.’
‘Malmaison was a firm favourite of Oscar Wilde who used to visit the Floris Shop to see the Floris family, proudly wearing a green dyed carnation in his lapel. Malmaison Encore opens with a spicy blend of clove, cinnamon and zesty lemon, creating a warm and inviting top note. The floral bouquet of carnation, rose, and ylang ylang, build the romantic and sensual heart of the fragrance, while the base notes of cedarwood, musk and patchouli bring depth and sophistication leaving a lingering trail of captivating allure. The final touch of vanilla together with the spicy carnation, evoke the elegance and timeless beauty of this floral oriental fragrance.’
‘The unisex scent pays homage to the flora of the romantic and isolated Islay and to the wonderful whisky that has lovingly been produced on the island, it is said, since the 1300s. Inspired by the tasting notes and deep flavours of the rich amber liquor, as well as the beautiful island itself, known as “The Queen of the Hebrides”, Islay is also a celebration of the time-honoured ritual of appreciating the deep complex flavours and subtle nuances of whisky.
Earthy green top notes of galbanum bring to mind the wild, windswept gorse hedgerows of Islay complimented by bergamot, highlighting the initial citrus character found in many of Islay’s whisky blends. Orris adds a smooth and soft floral note whilst adding balance to the rich, rugged peaty and smoky accord of prickly juniper oil and patchouli. Finally, just a subtle hint of vanilla with warm comforting musk’s in the base of the fragrance imbue a reassuring outro to the scent.’
‘One of the original Floris fragrances created in 1816. Stephanotis draws inspiration from the Stephanotis flower, also known as the “bridal veil” flower. The fragrance uses oil from the “Madagascan Jasmine”, a flower which symbolises “happiness in marriage”, a delicate beauty and sweet fragrance that embodies love, purity and devotion. Originally created as a bridal perfume for the high society weddings that often took place at the magnificent St. James’s church, built by Christopher Wren in 1684, Stephanotis soon became an established favourite to be worn by brides.
Stephanotis opens with a vibrant freshness of orange blossom, petitgrain, and a touch of green galbanum note. The heart notes of spicy carnation, aromatic coriander, delicate stephanotis and intoxicating jasmine create a floral symphony that captivates the senses with its elegance and allure. A velvety embrace of musk, the soft powdery notes and the soothing essence of sandalwood in the base gracefully concludes this fragrance, leaving a long-lasting warmth and sophistication.’
‘Vetiver was a firm favorite of Legendary Actor and Director Sir Laurence Olivier who used to visit the Floris Shop to see the family. Originally inspired by the exotic aromas, vibrant colours and energy of India. The vetiver plant has been revered for centuries in the mystical land of India. It captures the essence of the rich cultural heritage, spirituality and natural beauty. The earthy and aromatic roots of the vetiver plant embody strength and a connection to nature, creating a captivating and sophisticated scent experience. A twist of bergamot and lemon lifts the distinctive and tenacious notes of vetiver from the heart of lavender, and geranium.
The Vetiver fragrance entices with aromatic heart notes of cinnamon, clove and invigorating coriander blending with the earthy and smoky essence of vetiver. The warm spices contrast with the deep and long-lasting base notes of amber, soothing frankincense, rich patchouli, and comforting sweet tonka bean, creating a captivating and inviting olfactory journey.’
‘Edwardian Bouquet is an expression of the good life; it’s the finest of town and country. Rooms perfumed with hyacinths in springtime, delicate blooms of jasmine in the garden and weekend forest walks, the autumn air heavy with woods and rich oakmoss. Edwardian Bouquet was first introduced into the Floris range in 1901 as a celebration of the new era. The fragrance was then reintroduced in 1984 with the rediscovery of the original formula while going through the family archives.
Opening with the sparkling citrus freshness of bergamot and mandarin combined with a distinctive green accord and the delicate allure of hyacinth. The heart reveals a bouquet of flowers, jasmine, delicate rose and sensual ylang ylang intertwine their floral beauty to create a timeless and elegant olfactory experience, while the fragrance resonates with a base of warm amber, velvety musk, and rich earthy notes of oakmoss and patchouli, creating a sense of elegance and nostalgia.’
‘Sun-filled days and languid evenings where opulent sparks of pineapple and zesty citrus drift on the breeze. Inspired by Floris founder Juan Famenias Floris’s roots on the Balearic Island of Minorca, the fragrance embodies a leisurely Mediterranean spirit. The name Soulle, translates from Spanish as ‘sunlight and eastern wind’. A spirit of adventure, a statement of freedom, Soulle Ámbar excites the senses, anticipating new discoveries just over the horizon inviting you to embrace life and take a chance.
Soulle Ámbar opens with a fresh crisp vibrant note of pineapple capturing the senses. Lentisque and galbanum create an elegant, modern green accord balanced with fresh crisp fruity note of pineapple. A burst of invigorating bergamot creates a vibrant opening to the fragrance. The heart reveals the lush of jasmine, geranium and melilot. The spicy resinous notes are complemented by the tingling pink peppercorns. As it unfolds, the delicate sweetness of vanilla, amber and musk captures the essence of sophistication and leaves a sensual base to complete the fragrance.’
‘Worn by many well-known names over more than two centuries and particular cherished favourite of legendary Vogue Editor Grace Coddington writes in her memoirs: 1959 – “I was probably 19 or 20 when I moved to London with a friend to go to modelling school. We rented a room in Notting Hill Gate, which is an incredibly smart area now, but in those days it wasn’t like that at all. I met people in the coffee bar who signed me up for the Vogue modeling contest, which I won, and who introduced me to the photographer Norman Parkinson. My first picture was a nude for him! [With the money I made] I went to all the old arcades with all the old shops, because I loved old, traditional things—I will, always—and Floris was one of those stores. I didn’t go in with the intention of buying a perfume. I went in because I was responding to the visuals as much as a fragrance I found there called Red Rose. I just loved the idea that it was pretty much crushed rose petals and that was that.”
Red Rose opens with sparkling leafy green notes before the balanced, enigmatic rose character gradually reveals itself. The fragrance blooms with the warmth of cinnamon leaf and clove bud intertwined with the delicate embrace of palmarosa, and the essence of Rose Absolute at its heart. The base notes of vetiver, cedarwood and sandalwood create a comforting effect, while the sensuous depth of musk create a captivating and enduring fragrance.’
Memoize is a niche fragrance house that captures memories and bottles them for us to share – surely the very essence of that emotional connection we all for when wearing a fragrance? Which scent memories are we billowing forth this summer, and how did the founder’s own fragrant fanaticism begin? Read on to discover more…
You see, Memoize just get it – the scented significance of the personal connections we have with the perfumes we love most. Or, as they put it, ‘…the importance of creating a perfectly harmonious balance between fragrances and how they make people feel, incorporating notes that many would remember from their childhood, adolescence and beyond.’ Most importantly, they know that this fragrant memory bank is not locked away in an airtight safe – it’s something we live and breathe, and therefore can all add to, every day of our lives. So that ‘…these scents will become the basis of future memories, too.’
Holly Hutchinson
Sometimes it takes a lifetime to learn what seems this most simple of things – understanding and tapping in to our deepest selves – but although Holly Hutchinson founded Memoize in 2016, her fragrant memory lessons began far further back. On her seventh birthday, she was gifted her very first set of miniature perfumes. As her mother was ‘an avid collector of unusual scents’, perfumes were almost indelibly linked to scented snapshots of Holly’s childhood memories. ‘A French holiday in the sun, a ride across the waves by boat, venturing through trees in a garden of ferns and Laurels…’ The album of scent memories was filling up fast.
It was in 2011 that Holly could truly begin to follow her dream, joining a prestigious niche fragrance brand and pursuing a career in the industry. But after seven successful years, it was time to start thinking about reaching further, using her love of fragrance and design with the expert knowledge she’d gained, and finally launching her own brand. Holly says she ‘knew immediately’ what the concept should be: sharing the very memories that launched her own fragrant career, while helping perfume-lovers explore their own scented memory bank. So, shall we take a scented wallow in those memories…?
Losing yourself to the intoxication of seduction is the name of the game with the particular scent memories of Luxuria. Think of joyous summer picking wild berries with a loved one, of that moment when your mouth waters just prior to biting into a lusciously juicy blackberry – well, that’s what’s bottled here. Shot through with luminescent tuberose, muguet (lily of the valley) and ylang ylang, its dry-down dips you deeper to a base of vanilla-infused suede.
This best-selling scent became so beloved it was turned into an extended scent memory with Rose Luxuria – this time an airier, fresher caress of deliciously sparkling top notes of bergamot, lemon and orange that deepen to the juicy delights of tropical fruits. The heart proffers a bouquet of airy, almost soapy rose, the delicacy of lily of the valley, magnolia and orange flower dusted with orris on a throbbingly deeper base of amber, benzoin, moss, precious musk and woody undertones. So, so beautiful!
More recently we’ve been enamoured with the scented self-reflection of Ego as an olfactory wake-up call. The green freshness of fig leaf is followed by the piquancy of cassis. Together, these notes somehow feel like the familiarity of softly crushed tomato leaves, along with a mellowing lap of cool, coconut milkiness that caresses, silkily and cardamom speckled rose petals wrapped around ambered, tonka woodiness. Likening the development on your skin to the blooming of your soul, it’s a scented symbiosis.
Tempted to try more? If you’ve not had the pleasure of trying any yet, why not dive in to the joyously uplifting and soul-soothings scents in the Light Range Discovery Set; or explore the Dark Range Discovery Set to delve into your deepest desires? You can also shop the collection of Memoize London here, where we’re thrilled you can now buy full sizes from our shopAnd with extrait de parfum concentrations – these are scent memories that truly last…
May we admit to being rather obsessed with the idea of what the official anointing oil for the Coronation smells like?
Okay, well we know we’re among fragrant friends, so we’re not alone. and here we’ll be exploring the scents of the Coronation, both ancient and newly inspired…
A few years ago, a fascinating BBC documentary (sadly no longer available to view online) delved behind-the-scenes of the late Queen’s Coronation on June 2, 1953; and it held a scented secret for sharp-eyed fragrance fans… While discussing the ancient rituals of the act of anointing the monarch, our eyes were drawn to the oil itself – rather incongruously kept nestled in a battered old box and bottle of Guerlain‘s Mitsouko!
We’d definitely consider being baptised in Mitsouko, but it turned out it was just the bottle and box. Oh well. No matter, for the story of the oil’s recipe was rather deliciously revealed…
The oil was made from a secret mixture in sesame and olive oil, containing ambergris, civet, orange flowers, roses, jasmine, cinnamon, musk and benzoin– actually sounding rather Ambrée in its composition – and must surely have smelled glorious.
The anointing ritual is usually hidden from view – a private moment for the monarch to reflect on their duties and the significance of being touched by that oil – and so a canopy is held by four Knights of the Garter to shield our gaze. This time, though, while King Charles is anointed beneath the canopy; Queen Consort, Camilla, shall be anointed in full public view. Either way, quite a scent memory.
In fact, the phial containing the original oil had been destroyed in a bombing raid on the Deanery in May 1941. The firm of chemists who’d mixed the last known anointing oil had gone bust, so a new company, Savory and Moore Ltd, was asked by the Surgeon-Apothecary to mix a new supply, based on the ancient recipe, for the late Queen’s Coronation.
We’d quite like them to whip up a batch for us, too.
During the ritual, the highly scented oil is poured from Charles II’s Ampulla (the eagle-shaped vessel shown above) into a 12th-century spoon. Amidst the pomp and pageantry of it all, our minds keep returning to the mysteries of the anointing oil, and whom that bottle and raggedy box once belonged. Whomever they were, we congratulate them on their taste!
Meanwhile, our minds (and noses) turn to more recent royal evocations in fragrant form. Which of these five might you choose to wear for an occasion (or simply to feel extra special any day you fancy)…?
Penhaligon’s Highgrove
Composed in close collaboration with King Charles, this is a highly personal take on the scent of a beloved silver lime tree in his garden. Using headspace technology to capture the smell of that actual tree (rather than attempting to recreate it), the softly cocooning blossoms glide on a bright, citrus breeze with mimosa and cedar. Refreshing at any time, we feel.
A brilliant blending of heritage and modernity, think wooden-panelled rooms and freshly rolled cigars glinting with a verdant freshness that radiates herbaceous greenery and mellowed with a husky muskiness that exudes a new confidence. Easy to wear yet stylishly characterful, this could be a signature scent. Hurry, though – it’s a limited edition: so we say, stock up.
Fascinatingly, this was originally created in 1925 and worn by Winston Churchill; now recreated for a modern era, this timeless scent is beautifully composed, with a softness belying the effervescent opening. Velvety clary sage leaves cloak a magnificently smooth grey amber, seamlessly melded with a perfectly grounded sandalwood. Effortlessly engaging.
The very picture of perfumed elegance, this crisply pleasing rose rests on a dew-flecked, leafy base and was originally crafted for the occasion of the late Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee. When a breath of fresh air is required, along with an assuredness that never fails, this is one to bring inner strength and feels like floating on a tenderly blushed breeze.
Lovers of modern regally-inspired scents should try this, resplendent with luscious cherry enrobed in creamy heliotrope. Add the fragrant fizz of frothy citrus, the delicate luminescence of jasmine petals and a glimmer of crystal musk amidst the assuredly dry cedarwood base as it warms, and you have a scent fit for any occasion you need to feel in charge of.
Nancy Meiland is a brilliant British perfumer, now with her own gorgeous boutique in Brighton; but let’s get to know her (and her scented style), starting with where it all began…
Based in East Sussex, Nancy divides her time between town and country, explaining that ‘the creative process of gathering sensory impressions and honing them into a formula is a vital one. Once a blank canvas, the formula sheet acts as a metaphor – and gradually emerges essentially as a kind of poem, with body, light and shade and a life of its own.’ (It amuses Nancy, looking back, that she often had essays returned to her emblazoned with ‘too flowery’ as a criticism. ‘It figures!,’ she says.)
Beginning her career as an apprentice to one of the UK’s experts in custom perfumery, in London, creating signature scents for those coveting ‘something highly individual and special…’ before launching Nancy Meiland Parfums, her decade-long journey through fragrance also saw Nancy co-run the former School of Perfumery, act as a consultant for independent perfume houses, work on collaborations with Miller Harris, and speak on the subject of fragrance at events nationwide.
Now with her own artisanal line, she has the knack of conjuring emotional responses with lyrical fragrances that are contemplative yet so effortlessly sophisticated, based on scent memories of her own, but inviting the wearer to go on their own fragrant journey with every spritz.
Writing about Nancy Meiland for The Perfume Society, beauty writer (and proud Londoner) Viola Levy once admitted that ‘…Nancy Meiland’s fragrances – an ode to the beauty of nature – would make even the most hard-nosed city girl like yours truly want to kick off her Louboutins and go skipping and spinning through a meadow Julie Andrews-style. (I feel similarly towards other UK perfumers inspired by green spaces, there’s just something about the earthy, rain-sodden British countryside that lends itself rather well to perfume…)
You always have an image of someone in your head before you meet them. To be honest, I was expecting Nancy to be a softly-spoken, Brönte-reading country girl (albeit a glamorous one, à la Savannah Miller), pausing our conversation to whimsically gaze into the distance every now and again. A far cry from the chatty, effervescent blonde sat opposite me – and all the better for it. I’m surprised to find out that Nancy is a city girl herself – a fellow North-Londoner no less – whose fond memories of visiting her grandparents as a child inspired her olfactory journey.’
You can watch a fascinating in-depth Q + A with our co-founder Jo Fairley interviewing Nancy Meiland on the video below…
And of course you can read about each of the fragrances (and her inspirations for them) plus the full story of the how the house began, on our page dedicated to Nancy Meiland Parfums.
So-knowledgeable, always engaging, we’re thrilled Nancy now has the scented space to experience the perfumes in person – well worth a visit to the seaside to go on your own mini sniffari to seek them out!
Nancy Meiland Parfums, 2 Nile Street, Brighton, BH1 1HW
Open Wednesday to Sunday, 11am – 4pm (Saturdays 11am – 5pm)
