Tag: FAQ

Bravo for bergamot! Citrus sparkle for colder weather

Clinging to the craggy Calabrian coastline, bergamot trees gleam like polished jade against rock and sea, their glossy leaves and peculiarly knobbly fruits belying the fact that this is one of perfumery’s brightest, most hard‑working ingredients. And here we say: bravo for bergamot!

Let’s delight in this fragrant treasure…

Harvested from October to February, the citrus spheres swell from vivid green to sun‑tinted yellow, often so weighty they snap delicate branches, yet only around a hundred tons of true bergamot oil are produced each year. It remains a crop that stubbornly refuses to thrive anywhere else with the same complexity – a scented secret jealously guarded by this small corner of southern Italy.

Inside that rough skin lies an oil that perfumers treasure for its astonishing range – from effervescently fresh and almost floral in October to more peppery, zesty and herbaceous by February. Scraped from the peel with traditional ‘peeler’ devices, the deep green essence emerges as a rounded, many‑faceted material that can feel like sunshine, silk and cool stone all at once. As perfumer Pia Long so perfectly puts it, bergamot is a ‘wonder material’ with so many facets that other notes can effortlessly ‘hook onto’, the Little Black Dress of perfumery that simply ‘goes with almost anything’.

 

 

 

 

No wonder the top noses so often single it out as their most‑used ingredient, even if it rarely gets the diva treatment reserved for more glamorous notes. It was there at the birth of modern perfumery in the early 1700s, sparkling through Farina’s original Eau de Cologne and effectively founding the entire ‘fresh’ olfactory family. Centuries later, Sylvie Ganter of Atelier Cologne still calls bergamot a ‘happy fragrance’ note – ‘sparkling, joyful and elegant’, bringing light and transparency even to dense woods and oudh, and making her smile as if she’s ‘on vacation’ each time she wears it.

Guerlain’s Thierry Wasser goes further, describing bergamot as ‘the alpha and omega of Guerlain’, the joyful, smiling burst that opens everything from Eau de Cologne Impériale to La Petite Robe Noire. For him, it is ‘lightness’ and ‘a bursting side to the head notes’, sourced meticulously from long‑term partners in Calabria and declared, with affectionate flair, ‘a staple, darling! We love it!’ Shalimar, often thought of purely as a grand vanilla‑amber Oriental, secretly leans on an astonishing 30% overdose of bergamot to keep its depths buoyant, what perfumer Sophia Grojsman once described as ‘dark but transparent’ – a near‑impossible effect without that citrus radiance.

In winter, bergamot becomes not just refreshing but deeply, almost soul‑reviving: the olfactory equivalent of opening a window in a stuffy room and letting a cold, bright wind swoop through. Its energy works like a wake‑up call for perfumes that might otherwise feel too heavy in low temperatures, adding lift, movement and an extra sparkle against wool coats, scarves and frosted air. Top notes that might seem fleeting in summer suddenly feel longer‑lasting on chilled skin, so that first whoosh of bergamot hangs like a halo over the darker notes beneath.

 

 

 

 

Bergamot’s magic lies in the way it ‘marries’ tempestuous florals with earthy, resinous bases, smoothing any rough edges so the composition feels seamless – the invisible hand that turns potential clashes into chemistry. Think of it as sunlight through stained glass, illuminating every colour rather than outshining them; or like the first sip of Earl Grey tea, where that airy citrus lifts the tannic heft of black leaves. Bergamot does the same for fragrance structures, adding an almost tea‑like floralc-y and gentle sparkle that reads as sophistication rather than spiky sharpness.

There is science to this serenity, too. In the 1970s, when a component called bergapten was found to be phototoxic on sun‑exposed skin, demand for bergamot oil crashed and synthetics rushed in to fill the gap. But natural bergamot proved irreplaceable, and new production methods that remove those risky molecules – creating ‘bergamot FCF’, or furanocoumarin‑free oil – allowed perfumers and perfumistas to breathe a sigh of relief and return to the real thing. Today, bergamot is once again a pillar of citrus, chypre, woody and even gourmand compositions, lending uplifting brightness without any scrubbed‑out austerity.

 

 

 

 

For perfumer Lyn Harris, bergamot is one of the ‘most important’ citrus oils precisely because it is so beautifully balanced: rounded, versatile, a perfect base for any citrus bouquet and equally at home enlivening chypres and Orientals. Pierre Gueros notes that while lemon, orange and grapefruit are used for sheer impact and fruity freshness, bergamot is prized for its tea‑and‑lavender nuances, its lack of harsh edges and its ‘soft, classical sparkle’. In the Middle East, he found it to be the only citrus acceptable in fine fragrance because it was not associated with cleaning products – a telling reminder of how elegant and knowingly nuanced this material feels on skin.

And in colder months, that elegance translates into a very specific kind of comfort: not cosy, exactly, but quietly exultant, like crisp winter sunlight glittering on snow. Bergamot‑rich scents can be exhilarating yet never brash, offering clarity when the world feels grey and a sense of movement when moods stagnate. We love their energising nature – the way a single spritz can make shoulders drop, lungs expand and thoughts feel a little more spacious, whether you’re facing a frosty commute or twinkling party lights. When the days are shortest, what we love is how bergamot’s radiance can feel like a personal dawn, repeated with every spritz.

Below, a line‑up of some of our favourite bergamot‑centric fragrances that shimmer beautifully in colder weather, each with its own style of citrus glow…

 

 

 

 

Nishane Wulong Cha

A brisk, silken gust of bergamot, orange and mandarin sweeps through cool air, bright yet never shrill, immediately conjuring the idea of iced tea sipped in winter sunshine. Oolong and nutmeg add a cashmere‑soft, gently spiced steaminess that folds around you rather than projecting too loudly. Musk and fig ground the freshness in a velvety, almost creamy trail, making this feel both invigorating and soothing.

£175 for 50ml extrait de parfum harrods.com

 

 

 

LL_MENS_MONTBLANC_EXPLORER.jpg

Montblanc Explorer

Here, an Italian bergamot accord cuts through the chill like a clean, glacial breeze, sharpening the senses before earthy vetiver and patchouli unfurl. The citrus spark stops the woods and leather from ever feeling heavy, lending a crystalline edge that keeps everything brisk, modern and outdoorsy. It is the olfactory equivalent of zipping up a favourite jacket and heading out into the cold with intent, purposeful but polished.

£39 for 30ml eau de parfum theperfumeshop.com

 

 

Akro SMILE

This feels like bottling the moment someone makes you laugh on a grey day: sage and bergamot fizz in the top, crisp and green‑gold, while raspberry adds a playful, neon blush. There is a luminous clarity to the structure that makes it wearable at any time, yet it never tips into minimalism – it is joyfully present. Originally blended as a private ‘happy’ talisman, it now beams that optimism outwards with every mist.

£160 for 100ml eau de parfum lookfantastic.com

 

 

 

Floris Bergamotto di Positano

Imagine standing on a winter shore, the memory of summer warmth lingering in the air – that is the mood here, where bergamot and mandarin sparkle against salty marine notes. A heart of orange blossom and green tea feels like light on water, softened with a touch of vanilla creaminess so the brightness never bites. Woods, amber, ambrette and ginger hum underneath with mellow, sun‑stored warmth, like skin remembering an Amalfi holiday beneath your coat.

£120 for 50ml eau de parfum florislondon.com

 

 

Experimental Perfume Club Bergamot Incense

A study in contrasts, this scent sets bergamot’s zesty, herbaceous facets against the meditative curl of frankincense and the cool poise of iris. The result is a halo of citrus that glows rather than glares, illuminating the resinous shadows without dispelling them. It feels like a contemplative walk on a clear, cold morning – bright air, long blue shadows, and a quietly luminous energy that stays close to the skin yet transforms your whole mood.

£125 for 50ml eau de parfum experimentalperfumeclub.com

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Brunello Cucinelli’s Incanti Poetici – the art of subtle luxury

Entwining fashion and fragrance in the most stylish way, today we are exploring the Brunello Cucinelli Incanti Poetici Collection, and invite you to daydream with every spritz…

Just for a moment, let’s close our eyes and imagine a sunlit afternoon in Solomeo, mist enfolding honeyed-stone archways, whispers of poetry carried skywards on a gentle breeze. Italy’s aesthetic master of quiet luxury, Brunello Cucinelli, distils this subtle magic into the house’s Incanti Poetici scents – a fragrance collection that feels as though it speaks in low, elegant tones, yet lingers in the memory like the closing lines of a favourite verse.

 

To uncork these bottles is to enter a landscape where fabric, fragrance, and poetry intertwine, each accord lingering with the soft opulence and contemporary refinement that so define the house’s pared back fashion – and indeed, their family values.

 

 

 

 

Every flacon arrives gleaming with the clarity of Italian glass, capped and cupped with a pleasingly cool weight in recyclable aluminium, cosseted in a hand-crafted box spun from the paper mills of Solomeo. True to Cucinelli’s ethos, the compositions balance remarkable natural materials with a kind of narrative elegance – a thread of beauty winding from tailored jacket to outstretched wrist, in the softest exhalation of skin and air.

Perfumery’s brightest talents have composed this fragrant anthology, and they chose the perfumers so well to capture the feeling of the fashions, to truly embody their ethos.

 

 

Benoist Lapouza’s Vie Eteree is a bright, breezy day in a bottle: basil and cardamom tumble over Italian bergamot and citron, then tumble again to rest at cedarwood’s reassuring threshold. This is the gentle nudge of dawn, something quietly vital, inviting a moment’s contemplation and possibility.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com

 

 

Soffio Zenit, crafted by Florian Gallo, radiates Mediterranean purity. The milky-green hush of fig is gilded by lavender and rosemary, while labdanum’s leathery glow unfurls through the base like sun shot across ancient stone. There is something weightless yet grounding here – a fresco painted in sunlight and shaded leaves.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com

 

Quentin Bisch’s Sogno Notturno, meanwhile, sways sideways into sandalwood and cumin, edged with osmanthus, as dreamlike as half-remembered stories murmured in the dark. Vetiver sinks in, smokily smooth, a susurrus of comfort and intrigue. It’s the soft hush between wishing and waking, wrapped around the pulse-point like silk.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum brunellocucinelli.com

 

 

Daphné Bugey’s Brezza Gentile opens with the crisp zesty prickle of bitter orange, deepens to earthy patchouli, then warms with a gentle ambrox accord. Inspired by Solomeo’s Garden of Philosophers, this is a gentle breath, a reminder to walk a little slower, listen a little longer, as afternoon stretches lazily into contemplative dusk.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com

 

 

In Ombra Lirica, Alberto Morillas blends ancient woods and volcanic olibanum around oudh’s mysterious richness, never tipping into gloom – instead casting an intricate, lyrical shadow that dances quietly in the background. One for libraries with velvet chairs, for the secret page turned in candlelight.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com

 

 

At last, Jordi Fernandez’s Vento Ardente – rich with warm leather, saffron flickering among amyris, cedar and sandalwood. This is all fire and resonance, yet never ostentatious – as soul-nourishing and reassuring as the perfect jumper slung around suntanned shoulders, as quietly memorable as sun-baked stone cooling at midnight.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com

Incanti Poetici gathers up the spirit of Brunello Cucinelli: understated yet full of atmosphere, exquisitely textured and always composed with both poise and heart. Each bottle offers not only a distinctive aroma, but an invitation to experience the world with heightened awareness – composed (in every sense), creative, and brilliantly Italian in its pursuit of beauty. For those new to Brunello Cucinelli’s scented world, this is perfumed poetry to be worn – and treasured as it resonates – every single day…

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Scented Snippets – fascinating facts from the history of fragrance

Following a fragrant trail, we present for your delectation a selection of the choicest scented snippets from history. You don’t have to be a history buff (or anorak – though we proudly claim that title at Perfume Society Towers!) to be bewitched by the history of fragrance. We know it’s been used to communicate with the Gods, to seduce, as a display of wealth – or for pure pleasure – for thousands of years. (And perhaps much longer, even if archaeologists can’t yet find the tangible proof through their excavations.)

Perfume’s fascinating trail leads us from Ancient Egypt to Ancient Greece, to Rome – where rosewater played in fountains – and up to France, where Louis XIV’s court was known as ‘la cour parfumée‘, with the king demanding a different fragrance for every single day…

Egyptian priests, and their Pharoahs, were entombed with fragrances – and when those tombs were opened by archaeologists, in 1897, the perfumes were discovered to have retained their original, sweet smells.  Important figures in Egyptian history were buried with scented oils, to ensure their ‘olfactory needs’ were fulfilled.

Many of those ingredients are still prized in perfumery today.  Jasmine, hand-picked in the morning.  Frankincense resin, still gathered from the Boswellia shrub, with entire forests cloaking areas of Oman, Yemen, Ethiopia.  (Egyptian Queen Hatsheput was apparently crazy for frankincense:  wall paintings on her temple, showing a large-scale expedition to collect frankincense from the ancient land of Punt.)  They used Nile lotus, myrrh, madonna lilies, honey…

 

 

If the art of ancient perfumery was to have a ‘face’, a figurehead, it would surely be Cleopatra.  As legend tells it, she had the the sails of her boat coated with fragrant oils before setting to sea:  ‘The perfumes diffused themselves to the vessel to the shore, which was covered with multitudes.’  Her idea was that Mark Antony would get a waft of her arrival even before he caught sight of her.  As Shakespeare put it:

‘The barge she sat in, like a burnish’d throne,
Burn’d on the water;  the poop was beaten gold,
Purple the sails, and so perfumed that
The winds were lovesick with them…
… From the barge, a strange invisible perfume hits the sense…’

(Which neatly explains the name of a niche Californian fragrance brand, Strange Invisible Perfumes, NB.)

 

 

Public baths were The Big Thing in Ancient Rome, with the affluent classes devoted to body care. Think:  balms, oils, perfumes for skin, hair – and living spaces.  (Food had to appeal to the nose as well as the palate, too, through spicy aromas.)  Even public spaces might be scented:  Emperor Nero was so crazy about roses, he had silver pipes installed so that his dinner guests could be spritzed with rosewater.  (According to legend, he once shelled out £100,000 for a ‘waterfall’ of rosepetals which actually smothered one guest, killing him.  Quite a way to go.)

 

 

Marco Polo brought exotic aromatics and scented goods back to his home city of Venice.  The great explorer returned laden with fragrant treasures from the new civilisations he’d discovered, on his voyage. This major trading hub flourished for a while as the centre of the perfume world. Almost everything was perfumed:  shoes, stockings, gloves, shirts, even coins.  Glamorous women carried or wore a silver version of the pomander, wafting trails of scent through the little perforations, as they moved, helping to block out the fetid smells of the streets and canals.  Meanwhile, doctors wore long robes and bird-like masks stuffed with aromatic herbs to shield themselves against epidemics (including deadly plague).

 

 

 

Queen Elizabeth I beckoned Venetian traders to Southampton to offer their scented wares:  it became fashionable to wear musk- and rose-scented pomanders and sachets, in particular. But soon, the epicentre of perfumery moved from Italy to France – thanks to the influence of Queen Catherine de Medici (above), who married King Henri II in 1533.  Until then, French enjoyment of the scent world was mostly in the form of little scented sachets (called ‘coussines’) or moulded clay bottles (known as ‘oilselets de chypre’).  But Catherine brought with her from her native Tuscany scented gloves, the perfume used to mask the unpleasant aroma of poorly-tanned leather.  At the same time, her personal perfumer set up shop in Paris, where he was besieged by orders.

 

The Myth & Magic of Marigold Scents

What do you know of the humble marigold? You may love its pops of vibrant colour in a garden setting, but how about in the world of scent? Let’s explore how this unusual note has a surprising complexity – and discover which fragrances we recommend you try it in…

The marigold is a flower ablaze in sunburst-orange and saffron gold, often the first to catch your eye in a border. Yet for all their visual exuberance, marigolds remain a fragrant enigma – their scent rarely captured by memory, a paradox for a bloom so bright. Lean in closer, and you’ll discover a whole new aromatic landscape: marigold brings a tangled tapestry of aromas, shimmering between honeyed spice, bitter green herbs, just-crushed apple peel and even a subtle, dusky leather – unexpectedly complex, more than a mere floral flourish.

 

 

 

 

The name ‘marigold’ sings of legend, derived from ‘Mary’s gold’ and linked to the Virgin Mary, these flowers have been cherished symbols of devotion and celebration across continents for centuries. While we call them ‘marigold’ as though they’re a single species, we’re really speaking of a double act: the sunny Calendula officinalis and the vivacious Tagetes species (often dubbed French marigold or Indian Carnation).

It’s from their petals and seeds that perfumers tease out their essence – Calendula’s musky pungency is isolated via steam distillation, while tagetes oil, similarly coaxed from those feisty little seeds, delivers a comparable, almost interchangeable olfactory personality. Together, they offer the perfumer an extraordinary palette, able to lift a fragrance into the light, or deepen it with an aromatic shadow.

 

Marigold’s undeniable charisma has caught the attention of contemporary perfumers, and in a composition, marigold often unfurls as a note you may not first recognise, but can resonate as flash of spicy verdancy or a whisper of slightly bitter, resinous warmth, giving classical chypres and contemporary florals an unexpected olfactory backbone.

 

Now, knowing all this, which of these marigold-centric scents might you like to explore…?

 

 

 

Kajal Lamar

Sunrise gold in a bottle, Lamar opens in an amber-lit burst, radiant with ripe fruits and sun-warmed marigold that conjure a garden wild with light and memory. Here, marigold is no mere supporting player – it glides through the composition as a golden thread, infusing the cushion of roses and jasmine with an earthy heat, a bittersweet tang that heightens the lush sweetness, never letting it grow too saccharine nor too predictable.

Lean closer – there’s a slow-blooming tension, as marigold’s green, aromatic edge melds with smooth woods and velveteen musks, grounding the ecstatic florals with a burnished touch. Lamar becomes a scented tapestry, marigold’s secret spice flickering at the heart, both grounding and illuminating, as the composition settles softly on the skin, vivid and unforgettable.

£167 for 100ml eau de parfum kajalperfumes.com

 

 

 

 

Byredo Bal d’Afrique

Evoking the vibrant pulse of Parisian nights and the bright rhythms of Africa, Bal d’Afrique revels in joyfully complex contrasts. The marigold note performs a sun-drenched dance against the juicy tartness of blackcurrant and an airy sweep of bergamot – its gilded facets weaving through the heart, adding a fresh, green intrigue to what could have been merely bright and playful.

As the perfume warms, marigold’s dry, tangy edge merges with creamy violet and velvety woods, imparting a sultry subtlety and an almost tactile depth – bittersweet, just a touch wild. There’s a sense of motion, of far horizons and electric possibility, with marigold as the glowing lantern that lights the way home.

£150 for 50ml eau de parfum selfridges.com

 

 

 

The Merchant of Venice Red Potion

A story of hidden passions and Venetian twilight, Red Potion sweeps open on spiced, bittersweet breezes, the marigold an altar flame burning bright beside sparkling citrus and crimson roses. Its presence here is vividly aromatic, lending both a verdant sharpness and an ambered resinous warmth, nestling between the cleaner clarity of fruit and the deep velvet of patchouli and vanilla.

Marigold’s slightly herbal, honeyed chord weaves through the heart of the scent, tempering lushness with restraint and seduction with sophistication. With each breath, Red Potion evolves into a more mysterious elixir – marigold’s golden aura whispered on the air, lingering softly long after dusk falls.

£205 for 100ml eau de parfum harveynichols.com

 

 

 

Boadicea the Victorious Blue Sapphire

With a flourish as dazzling as its namesake, Blue Sapphire opens in luminous style – fresh citrus gleaming over a heart where marigold glows like captured sunlight. The note brings with it a twining green sharpness, lending natural complexity to the composition’s spicy florals and the gentle fruitiness that swirls beneath.

As the fragrance unfurls, marigold settles in among herby sage and chamomile, creamy jasmine and rose – a warm, subtly bitter counterpoint that transforms the floral heart from mere beauty to brilliance. An underlying oudh and amber accord underscores marigold’s glowing presence, creating a scent both noble and new, fiercely bright and endlessly regal.

Try in the Bestsellers Gift Set £175 for 4x10ml eau de parfum boadiceaperfume.com

 

 

 

 

Jillian Switzerland Intangible

Intangible floats in like a reverie – translucent, enveloping, yet quietly audacious. Marigold here is a painter’s brushstroke under perfumer Mark Buxton’s hand: nuanced, lightly spiced, and ever so slightly bittersweet, breathed into life amid soft white florals and a diaphanous musky haze. Its green, almost dew–damp aspect adds a gentle intrigue, anchoring the fragrance’s ethereal impression.

There’s a hush of greens and a whisper of warm, herbal light, marigold weaving a golden ribbon through luminous petals and silken woods. Intangible is poetry in fragrant form – everyday beauty made extraordinary by marigold’s elusive charm, echoing long after memory stirs.

€300 for 100ml eau de parfum jillianswitzerland.com

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

The Unfurling Mystery of Fougère: A Fragrant Journey Through Time

Every era has its defining moment – that cultural watershed that not only captures the zeitgeist but creates something truly timeless. In the world of perfumery, that moment arrived in 1882 when Paul Parquet of Houbigant answered the eternal question “What should a man smell like?” with a revolutionary response: a fern.

Okay, sure.

But what IS a ‘fougère’ fragrance, and why are these scents now for everyone, not just aimed at men? Let’s explore…

 

The Birth of an Olfactory Legend

But what exactly is a fougère? Pronounced “foo-jair” (with the ‘f’ slightly softened, almost “foo-shair”), this French word meaning “fern-like” represents perhaps the most influential fragrance family in modern perfumery. The irony? Ferns themselves possess virtually no scent at all.

 

 

 

Houbigant Fougère Royal £165 for 100ml eau de parfum fornumandmason.com

Parquet’s stroke of genius was to completely invent what a fern should smell like—a work of pure olfactory fiction that would change perfumery forever. His creation, Fougère Royale, was the first fragrance to prominently feature coumarin, a synthetic material derived from tonka beans, alongside bergamot, oakmoss and geranium. This groundbreaking composition established not just a new scent but an entire fragrance category that continues to flourish today.

And what became of Houbigant, the house that started it all? After filing for bankruptcy in 1993, the magnificent Fougère Royale was greatly altered and finally discontinued. But in 2010, the wealthy Perris family rescued and restored Houbigant, commissioning fragrance impresario Roja Dove to work with perfumer Rodrigo Flores Roux to reinterpret the formula for modern tastes. The result? A sprig of herbs carefully tucked into the lapel of a herringbone jacket, the olive from a dry Martini sucked in a slightly lascivious manner while they’re all looking the other way.

 

 

The Alchemical Accord

What gives a fougère its distinctive character? At its heart lies a masterful balancing act between three key elements:

– The Aromatic Crown: Lavender provides the signature fresh, herbaceous top notes that create immediate recognition.

– The Warm Heart: Coumarin delivers a complex, layered warmth reminiscent of sweet hay drying in sunshine, a fizzy drink sipped on newly-mown grass, or perhaps a fine cigar fresh from the humidor.

The Earthy Base: Oakmoss anchors the composition with its deep, forest-floor richness, often complemented by other woody notes.

This trinity creates something greater than the sum of its parts – a magical realism that transforms individual ingredients into something we think we already recognise, sparking memories we didn’t know we had.

 

 

 

From Gentleman’s Club to Modern Masterpiece

Traditionally described as “masculine,” “refined,” and “traditional,” the fougère has evolved dramatically over the decades. While historically considered exclusively for men, many women have long enjoyed its laconic delights. Guerlain’s Jicky (1889) ­– widely acknowledged as the first modern perfume – is a fougère that amplifies crisp lavender with sweet flourishes, proving the family’s versatility.

The 1970s and 80s saw fougères dominate men’s fragrances with powerhouse classics like Yves Saint Laurent’s Kouros – freshly-scrubbed yet unable to hide its animal instincts – and Azzaro Pour Homme, which transitions from manly back-slaps to brooding Byronic poetry with remarkable ease.

 

 

The Modern Renaissance

Today, the fougère is enjoying a magnificent renaissance. Mugler’s Fougère Furieuse intensifies the feminine floral facets of the traditional structure, playing with gender codes by borrowing elements from the male wardrobe only to transform them into something daringly outrageous.

Tom Ford’s Fougère d’Argent merges impeccable decorum with provocative vision, blending mandarin and ginger with two types of French lavender, creating something both traditional and thoroughly modern.

Penhaligon’s Sartorial evokes honey-laden crumpets eaten with lip-smacking gusto, butter dripping on leather boots burnished with beeswax – what The Laughing Cavalier would surely wear today.

 

As part of our Luxurious Fragrances Discovery Box, you can try a sample of Lacoste Original, which brilliantly balances tradition and innovation in the fougère family. It opens with a vibrant burst of pink pepper and bergamot before revealing its true character—a crisp, aromatic heart of lavender and clary sage that perfectly evokes freshly-pressed polo shirts. The sophisticated dry down of patchouli and sandalwood provides depth without heaviness. This is a fragrance that respects its heritage while feeling thoroughly contemporary—understated elegance in a bottle that, like the brand’s iconic shirts, transitions effortlessly from sporting pursuits to everyday sophistication. A modern classic that proves the enduring appeal of a well-crafted fougère.

 

 

The Enduring Appeal

As we look to the future, the fougère family continues to evolve. Once dismissed as old-fashioned, these scents are becoming more addictive, sensual and crucially, more gender-neutral. The leaves of the fern look set to unfurl for some time to come, proving that sometimes the most enduring classics can change with the times and keep us intrigued…

Whether you’re drawn to the heritage classics or their modern interpretations, exploring the fougère family offers a journey through perfume history itself – one forest-y, bracken-y, beguilingly scented spritz at a time.

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Scented Self-Care: Elevate your fragrance ritual with these easy routines

In the whirlwind of our daily lives, it’s easy to overlook the power of scent in our self-care rituals. Yet, for fragrance aficionados and novices alike, incorporating perfume into our daily routines can be a transformative experience. Let’s explore how to deepen our relationship with our favourite scents and discover new olfactory pleasures through mindful application and sensory exploration… It can be truly life-enhancing!

 

 

The Art of Mindful Spritzing

Gone are the days of hastily applying perfume as you dash out the door. Instead, consider making your fragrance application a moment of zen in your day. Here’s how:

Breathe and Spritz: Before applying your chosen scent, take a moment to centre yourself. Close your eyes, take a deep breath, and then spritz. This simple act can turn a mundane task into a mini-meditation. (See our feature on Scent & Meditation – scroll down for the link, it’s truly fascinating!)

Explore New Territories: While wrists and neck are classic spots, why not venture further? The nape of your neck, behind your knees, or even a light mist in your hair can create an enticing trail that unfolds throughout the day.

Layer with Love: For a longer-lasting scent, start with a moisturised canvas. Apply an unscented lotion or oil before your perfume to give it something to cling to. For the truly devoted, layering with matching scented body products can create a beautifully complex aroma. (We’ve several features devoted to layering techniques, simply search ‘layer’ in our search bar, or scroll to the end for a link to our article on how to layer freshness into your scents!)

 

 

Sensory Exploration:

Getting to Know Your Scents

Even if you’re a seasoned fragrance lover, there’s always more to discover about your favourite scents. Here’s how to dive deeper:

The Blotter Technique: Spray your perfume on a blotter and embark on a sensory journey. Close your eyes and sniff intermittently, allowing your mind to wander. What images come to mind? What emotions surface? This exercise can reveal hidden depths to even the most familiar scents.

Abstract Associations: Move beyond trying to identify individual notes. Instead, ask yourself: If this scent were a fabric, what would it be? If it were music, what genre? These abstract associations can unlock a new appreciation for your perfumes.

Scent Journaling: Keep a small notebook dedicated to your fragrance experiences. Jot down your thoughts, feelings, and associations for each scent. Over time, you’ll develop a rich, personal olfactory diary.

 

 

Fragrance as Mood Enhancer

Our sense of smell is intimately linked to our emotions and memories. Use this connection to your advantage in your self-care routine:

Morning Motivation: Choose an invigorating scent to kickstart your day. Citrus or fresh green notes can provide a zesty wake-up call.

Midday Pick-Me-Up: Keep a small rollerball or travel spray in your bag for an afternoon boost. A quick sniff can help reset your mind and lift your spirits.

Evening Unwinding: As part of your bedtime ritual, apply a soothing scent. Lavender, vanilla, or woody notes can signal to your body that it’s time to relax.

 

 

Perfume Preservation and Longevity

To truly appreciate your fragrances, ensure they’re performing at their best…

Nourish Your Canvas: Well-moisturised skin holds fragrance better. Make applying body lotion a luxurious part of your routine before spritzing your scent.

Strategic Spritzing: Apply perfume to pulse points where the skin is warmer, like wrists, neck, and behind the ears. The heat will help diffuse the scent throughout the day.

Scent Your Surroundings: For a truly immersive experience, try spraying your perfume on a scarf or the collar of your coat. You’ll be enveloped in your chosen aroma all day long.

 

 

How it all helps

Incorporating fragrance into your self-care routine is about more than just smelling nice. It’s an opportunity for mindfulness, self-expression, and sensory exploration. By taking the time to truly engage with your scents, you’ll not only enhance your fragrance experience but also cultivate moments of joy and reflection throughout your day. So go ahead, spritz with intention, and let your favourite fragrances become an integral part of your daily self-care ritual.

If you’d love to explore this subject further, we point you towards these helpful features, which allow you to use fragrance in ever more mindful ways…

 

 

How to Use Scent & Breath Work in Meditation

 

 

How to Be More Adventurous in Your Fragrance Choices

 

 

How to Layer Freshness into Fragrances

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

How to get comfortable with a new fragrance…?

Getting comfortable with a new fragrance can often feel like an uphill battle. Our initial reactions to unfamiliar scents can be surprisingly strong, leading us to dismiss something that doesn’t immediately resonate with our olfactory preferences.

This is especially true when a fragrance is being worn on our skin, where it mingles with our natural scent and transforms in ways we might not expect. The challenge lies in our instinct to retreat to the familiar, shying away from the unknown.Yet, if we allow ourselves the time and space to truly experience a new fragrance, we may uncover a world of olfactory wonders.

 

 

 

 

As scents warm and develop on our skin, they can reveal layers and nuances that were initially hidden. What starts as a fleeting impression can evolve into an enchanting presence that lingers in our subconscious, captivating our thoughts and igniting our curiosity. Before we know it, a once-foreign scent can become an essential part of our identity, something we feel we cannot live without.In this blog post, we will share tips and tricks gleaned from years of experience with perfumers and professionals in the fragrance industry. From understanding the importance of skin chemistry to exploring the art of layering scents, we’ll guide you through the process of embracing new fragrances with open arms. So, if you’ve recently encountered a scent that left you puzzled or intrigued, join us on this aromatic journey. You may just find that what once felt alien can transform into a beloved signature scent that resonates with who you are. Embrace the adventure—your next olfactory obsession awaits!

 

 

 

 

With the realisation that the once standard ‘Signature Scent’ is no longer up to the job of reflecting every facet of our characters (or helping mask the more tender bits of our souls on a difficult day), it can still be difficult to know where to begin. So, with the world as your olfactory oyster (though smelling rather more appealing), and with such a plethora of perfumes to choose from; where does one start the scent journey to  feel comfortable and ‘find yourself through fragrance’?

Firstly, you need to get to know what you like, and more than that: how particular perfumes make you feel. Sounds simple, doesn’t it? But so many of us become stuck in a bit of a scented rut, or just don’t know where to start with widening our fragrant horizons. Follow these tips to start your own ‘new you’ scent journey, here…

 

 

Where to Start?

Use our simple Find a Fragrance tool – just type the name of a fragrance you already know and love, and the so-clever algorithm suggests six new scents with similar characters to try, with prices to suit all budgets!

 

 

How to Test?

Your taste in fragrance changes over the years – just as in food preference – and depends on weather, what you’ve eaten recently, your mood and hormones. So, take your time to explore a new scent out of your comfort range.

Spray on a blotter first and come back to it at hourly intervals. Write down your initial thoughts, then re-try a few days (and weeks) later.

Many perfumers trained for more years than a heart surgeon, memorising ingredients by connecting their smell to personal scent memories and images that immediately spring to mind, unbidden.

Smell has no distinct language. If you’re struggling to describe a scent, try likening it to fabric (is it velvety, suede-like, cotton fresh, silken or fluffy?) Perhaps it reminds you of music (played on which instruments? Fast or slow?) Or you might picture a place – imagine the air temperature and scenery it evokes…

Your nose gets used to smelling the same things, so avoid wearing the same thing daily. Try layering to re-awaken your senses or branch out with exciting new discoveries!

Like all artists, perfumers tend to have a certain style. If you fall in love with one (we’re predicting several) of these, research them online: we bet you’ll fall for others.

Scent molecules are volatile and evaporate at differing rates. Citruses are lightest, often found in top notes and disappearing rapidly; florals tend to be in the heart while base notes are heavier, woody or resinous. Make these stages last FAR longer by using matching or unscented body lotion, spray into your hair or on clothes (after testing on tissue!)

Undecided? Spray on a scarf rather than skin: you can take it off and sniff again, later! Spraying on fabric (or your hair) also helps make it last far longer as the molecules don’t warm up so quickly (or evaporate) as on skin. As does…

Use an unscented (or matching) body lotion or oil. Fragrance doesn’t last long on dry skin (or in hot climates). It clings far longer to moisturised skin – so slather up, then spray.

Fragrance samples are THE best way to try new things, dive nose-first into a whole new house you’ve never tried or perhaps a differing perfume family than you’d normally go for.

 

 

 

 

Where to Get Samples?

The best idea is to get a Discovery Box of fabulous mini sizes and samples from a wide range of luxury, niche and top-end designer fragrance houses. That way you can start exploring and trying them all in the comfort of your own home, before you splash out on a full size. This way, you also get to try things you may never have picked up to try in store (indeed, may never have heard of previously!) and have proper time to try on your skin.

 

 

Want to Explore More…?

Brand Boxes are the way forward. You may know you like one scent from a particular house, and are ready to be a bit braver and see what else they do. It’s a fantastic leaping-off point, actually, as many houses offer differing styles of scents while still retaining a kind of olfactory handwriting – the same way an artist will have a certain look to their work you can recognise, or a clothing designer tends to work with shapes or tones that suit you. So, when you’ve found one you love, do explore the rest in their collection (and obvs samples are the best way to do this without breaking the bank).

 

 

Our Biggest Tip?

Give fragrance TIME. Let it settle. Try it several times (in the morning and /or evening, and when you’re in differing moods, if possible). How we’re feeling, the weather, our hormones and even the food we ate recently all have a huge effect on how scents smell on our skin. Plus, being braver can take time, too. Allow yourself the pleasure of exploration, take notes, compare with friends: have FUN finding yourself with fragrance, while finding a new fragrance for you.

You may surprise yourself with what you end up falling madly for. You know, the one that goes beyond merely smelling nice to that eyes rolling back in your head moment, emitting guttural noises of pleasure at, which people stop you in the street and beg to know the name of.

Oh. You don’t know that one? Well, you’ve just not found it yet! It’s out there. Waiting for you… whomever you feel like being today, tomorrow, and next week.

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Fragrance families: what are they? How can you recognise them?

Fragrance families – where to begin?! Well. Imagine walking into a perfume shop, surrounded by countless bottles of scent, each promising a unique olfactory experience. It can be overwhelming, can’t it? But what if there was a way to navigate this fragrant universe more easily?

 

Enter the concept of fragrance families – a classification system that has been used by the perfume industry for years to group scents based on their dominant characteristics. The perfume world is divided into these ‘families’, and understanding them can be incredibly helpful in your fragrance journey. Interestingly, many of us tend to gravitate towards certain families without even realising it. We often fall for one family time and again, instinctively preferring scents from some fragrance families and disliking others. Or, you may find as your collection grows, you become entranced by exploring whole new families and sub-categories within them. You might also, for example, find yourself reaching for a particular type of scent in colder weather and another when the sun is shining.

At its core, the concept of fragrance families is part of the language of scent. It’s a way for perfumers, retailers, and fragrance enthusiasts to communicate about the characteristics of different perfumes. However, it can feel baffling and complicated, especially for those new to the world of fragrances. So, we put together a handy guide to Fragrance Families, each with their own main and sub sections.

 

what are fragrance families

 

These fragrance families have many members. Most of the main fragrance families have variations on their theme, which we call ‘near-relations’. If you find you like a particular family, it’s worth exploring these related scents as well – you might discover some new favourites!

When you’re fragrance shopping, knowing which family (or families) you’re drawn to can be incredibly helpful. An informed sales consultant can steer you towards scents you’re likely to enjoy, increasing your chances of finding a new ‘perfume love’. Remember, the absolute best way to learn about these fragrance families is simply to use your nose, and explore as many differing fragrance families (and their seemingly endless sub-genres) via perfume samples – it’s one of the reasons we started our Perfume Society Discovery Boxes, after all!

 

fragrance families

 

It’s worth noting that there’s no universal agreement in the perfume world about families and descriptions. It can be frustrating, but we’ve used our years of knowledge and common sense to simplify things as much as possible. If you’re just starting out, try to become familiar with each of the main families. As your nose develops, you can explore within those families and learn the nuances – much like learning about wine. You start by distinguishing between a Chardonnay and a Sancerre, and over time, you pick up the subtler differences within those types.

Let’s take a quick tour through some of the main fragrance families, but do click on each category to explore the scented sub-genres within them…

Fresh fragrances are uplifting, zesty, and cooling. Think of the whoosh of citrus notes like lemon, bergamot, and orange. These scents are clean and bright, perfect for summer  – or any time you need a whoosh of energy – and ideal for splashing on liberally.

Floral fragrances often feature notes like rose, jasmine, peony, and gardenia, and for centuries has been one of the most popular of all families. It’s ultra-feminine and easily recognisable, conjuring up images of bouquets, June weddings, and spring blossoms, but also can be exotic, heady, intoxicating.

The Ambrée family (formerly known as Oriental) is seductive and voluptuous. These fragrances tend to feel ‘grown-up’ with a warm, heavy richness that’s often more suited to evening wear, or for those who prefer gilded, glamorous, glowing scents with complex formulas and warm, spiced or resinous bases.

For Amber fragrances, read our feature on the fascinating history and (often) the confusion surrounding this category in our forthcoming sixty first edition of The Scented Letter magazine. Make sure you’re signed up here to get your FREE digital copy, and to be alerted when the print issue is available to purchase!

Woody fragrances, as the name suggests, feature notes of various woods like sandalwood, cedar, and oudh. They can be given different spins by adding spices, fruits, or herbs, and as woods are usually very long lasting notes and pair so well with other ingredients, they make up a vast number of fragrances available today.

Fougère fragrances, named after the French word for ‘fern’, often feature lavender, geranium, and oakmoss. Originally created for women, this family now includes many unisex scents.Woody fragrances, as the name suggests, feature notes of various woods like sandalwood, cedar, and oudh. They can be given different spins by adding spices, fruits, or herbs.

The Chypre family, pronounced ‘sheep-ra’, is built around a woody, mossy accord of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum. These fragrances are warm and dry, often with complex, nuanced floral or fruity elements, with many notes melding together to become rounded, unfurling in layers as they warm up on skin.

The Gourmand family is the newest addition to the fragrance universe. These scents feature ‘edible’ notes like caramel, chocolate, and vanilla, creating warm and comforting fragrances. Hugely helped by the success of Mugler’s Angel fragrance in the 90s, this family has once again expanded and is set to trend for ages yet.

 

 

Remember, these families are just a guide. The world of fragrance is deeply personal, often disagreed about, and the most important thing is how a scent makes you feel when you wear it. So, armed with this knowledge of fragrance families, why not embark on your own olfactory adventure? You might be surprised by what you discover, and which families you end up gravitating towards as you try them for yourself…

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Fragrant facts & myths your nose needs to know!

There are SO many myths associated with scent, so here we’re presenting you with some fragrant facts: How can you find your perfect perfume? What’s the best way to take care of it? Where should fragrance be applied, to get the most out of every spritz?

Nobody’s born knowing these things, so we’ve collated answers to many of the most frequently asked questions we’ve had in the ten years since The Perfume Society first launched…

 

 

 

How do I choose the right perfume for me?

  • We really would then advise trying fragrances in-store if possible, because there is nothing like experiencing the way a fragrance develops on your skin.
  • Initially, try the fragrance on a blotter (also known as a perfume ‘spill’). Allow a few minutes for the alcohol and the top notes to subside, and then smell the blotters. At this stage you may be able to eliminate one or more, if they don’t appeal – but it is really the heart notes and the lingering base notes which you will live with, and which are crucial.
  • Remember: blotters are a useful way of eliminating no-hopers and lining up possibilities, but they’re not really enough to base a perfume purchase on. You really need to smell a scent on your skin.
  • Do make the most of Find a Fragrance: The Perfume Society’s ‘virtual fragrance consultant’. You can input which perfumes you’re already keen on, and our clever algorithm will make a really accurate personalised selection, suggesting up to six fragrances at a time for you to try, at various price-points.

Why do I love some and loathe others?

  • A We are conditioned to have smell preferences, and our response is based partly on our individual genetic make-up (our DNA), and partly on our life experiences. So: that crushed tomato leaf note that reminds you of a beloved grandmother and her greenhouse – or the jasmine that was growing round a door when you were poorly on holiday, and which you can hardly stomach. Technically, we all have an ‘olfactory fingerprint’, which is unique to us: it is our life’s experiences all locked away in our smell memory. In the same way that we each respond differently to different smells, we don’t all like the same pictures, or the same music. (And wouldn’t life be boring, if we did…?)

How many should I try at a time?

  • A In a perfect world, one, when you’ve narrowed down your choices – to really get to know the smell as it develops. Ideally, no more than two at a time – one on each wrist. We don’t believe perfume-shopping should be rushed, but we all live busy lives so at a push, you can try one more, on the inside of an elbow; the elbows also happen to be good pulse-points.
  • Never try more than three fragrances at any one time, on your body, or you’ll confuse your senses. And because it’s hard to remember what you applied where, we really do suggest jotting down the details of which perfume you applied to which pulse-point. (It’s almost impossible to remember later, even if you think you’ll be able to…)
  • Ideally, really live with a fragrance before you part with your cash. That might mean getting a sample, if it’s available in store (or exploring the Perfume Discovery Boxes and Brand Sets. It might mean spraying your skin, in a store. (We like to spray a darker-coloured scarf or pashmina, too, and sniff it later.) When you’ve fallen in love, then go back and make your purchase.

 

 

 

 

Can I tell how a perfume will smell, from a blotter?

  • A Blotters, or spills, are specially-made pieces of blotting paper designed to demonstrate how a fragrance smells. They are a good way to establish if you like a perfume’s initial impression. But if you’re buying perfume, you need to discover how it unfolds on your own skin, as it interacts with your unique body chemistry.

What is the difference between perfume/scent/fragrance?

  • A Nothing. They are all words used to describe the wonderful world of smell, and the scented liquids (or balms) we apply to our bodies. Fragrance is in more common usage in the US, and throughout the perfume industry itself. Perfume comes from the Latin ‘per fumum’ which literally means through smoke. It originates from ancient times when people burned woods, resins and flowers as offerings to their gods – and if you’d like to read much more about the fascinating history of fragrance, click here.

What is the difference between Parfum, EDP, EDT, Aftershave and Cologne etc.?

  • A These descriptions are used to identify the strength or concentration of oil in a fragrance. T he concentrations can vary from fragrance to fragrance but here is an average guide. In general, the higher the percentage, the higher the price – but be aware that different concentrations (Perfume, or Eau de Toilette, etc.) may also have different notes in them, and not simply be weaker or stronger. So when you like a fragrance, we suggest you explore its different concentrations.
  • Extract/solid perfume – 20-30%
  • Perfume – 15-25 %
  • Eau de Parfum (EDP) – 8-15%
  • Eau de Toilette (EDT) – 4-8%
  • Cologne (EDC) – 2-4%
  • After Shave – 2-4%
  • Soap – 2-4%
  • Body cream/lotion – 3-4%
  • Perfumed candle – 10%

 

 

Can I wear a men’s fragrance as a ‘perfume’? Or a ‘female’ fragrance, if I’m male?

  •  Absolutely! Only in the last 150 years have distinctions been made between male and female fragrances. Now, most niche houses (and increasing numbers of more mainstream brands) are thankfully saying scent is for anyone who wants to wear it. You may see fragrances described as ‘genderfull’ or ‘gender free’. It comes down to personal choice. We know many men who wear Jicky and Angel, and plenty of women who adore Eau Sauvage or Habit Rouge. There really aren’t any ‘rights’ and ‘wrongs’. Wear whatever you want!

What is a fragrance wardrobe – and do I need one?

  • As Coco Chanel said, ‘Perfume is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory of fashion.’ So: some people have lots of shoes and bags and change according to their mood. A fragrance wardrobe provides the same opportunity for you to choose, according to your mood or the occasion. What we aim to do through The Perfume Society is make sure that those choices are fragrances you truly love and which suit you – rather than something which languishes, unworn, on a shelf. (Just as we’ve all bought clothes which we’ve worn once, and realised didn’t suit us. That’s what we’re trying to help you avoid.)

If I start to build a fragrance wardrobe, how many should I have…?

  • As many as you like. (How many pairs of shoes do you own…? Or jackets…? And would you wear sequins to work, or a fitted suit to watch a movie on a weekend…?) We don’t want to see fragrances languishing unworn on a dressing table, but if you wear them rather than look at them, then six, ten, maybe even more… You might want to have different fragrances for spring/summer and autumn/winter. (This is very common.) Or for day and evening: the evening fragrances might be stronger concentrations. Something subtle, perhaps, to wear to the office. Something outdoorsy, for gardening. Something snuggly, for cosying up to a fire, watching a boxed set. If perfume brings you joy, indulge yourself – and let others indulge you (preferably in a guided way…)

 

 

 

 

What are niche perfumes?

  • ‘Niche’ is the name given to perfumes which are often interesting, unusual, special, difficult to find – and sometimes pricey, too. There has been a huge rise in ‘niche’ perfumery, in the past few years, with many fascinating new names appearing on the fragrance scene. They might work with a similar ‘palette’ of fragrance ingredients, but often the niche perfumers try daring combinations, or are inspired by very personal events and experiences. All fragrances tell a story, and exploring ‘niche’ perfumes can be a great way to learn about the olfactory universe. In reality, the boundaries between niche and mainstream are so blurred the days, but generally we still call independent, smaller houses ‘niche’, or those that place artistic, unique compositions ahead of what’s fashionable.

Do seasonal scents exist? Are some better for winter than summer?

  • In hot weather, you may find your fragrance seems ‘stronger’ or more overpowering. This is exactly why brands sometimes offer lighter versions of bestselling scents, for the summer. Some people prefer heavier more full-bodied, comforting, almost ‘cocooning’ scents in the winter – but again, this is individual. Personally, at The Perfume Society, we have richer fragrances that we love to rediscover at around the time when we reach for our opaque tights, our socks (and vests!), switching to airier perfumes for the warmers months. Just do what feels right for you, personally – in fact, follow your nose…

Are there some fragrances designed to be worn for daytime, or for evening…?

  • Some do have the name ‘Night’, or ‘Nuit’ – which can be a clue that they’re intended for evening wear. But really, there are no hard and fast rules that have to be followed. This really is all about you. What you may want to do with a favourite fragrance, however, is choose a lighter concentration for daytime – an eau de parfum, or eau de toilette – and apply the perfume version, at night, which is basically a more intense version of the same scent.

 

 

 

 

 

Where should I apply perfume?

  • Coco Chanel advised to apply perfume ‘where you want to be kissed’… What that means is: spray/dab on your ‘hot spots’, or pulse points – behind the ears, temples, wrists, nape of neck, back of the knees, in the crease of your elbows, between your breasts, the small of your back, navel area… The blood flows close to the surface in these zones, and heats the fragrance oils. But do be aware of one no-no: perfume industry ‘insiders’ never, ever rub their wrists together after applying fragrance, because it affects the oils. Spray, waft your wrists around – and be patient…!

How much should I wear?

  • This is completely personal – but enough so you can smell it, and not too much that it overpowers the surrounding area. Your ‘scent circle’ should be your arms’ length and only when people come into your circle should they smell your perfume. If you’re unsure about whether you tend to ‘overdo’ your fragrance, ask a (good) friend. And take into account the occasion, too: you would certainly want to wear more for a night out than to the office
  • Spritz from eight to 10 inches (20-25 cm) away from your body, and let it develop on the skin. DO NOT RUB! (See Hints & Tips, here.) We also very much like this advice from perfumer Olivier Cresp (responsible for the creation of Thierry Mugler Angel, Nina L’Eau, and more): ‘Do spritz fragrance into your hair rather than all over your body. This will help the scent to last longer compared to quickly rubbing off your skin. It also means that when moving your head, there’ll be a more natural whiff of fragrance.’ And the late, great Estée Lauder suggested to women that they spray perfume into the air, like a cloud, and walk through it…

Can I wear more than one perfume at a time?

  • Yes! Did you know that in the Middle East, and many other cultures, people layer up to SEVEN (or more) fragrances at a time? Never be afraid to play with perfume. (The wonderful thing about fragrance is there is no right or wrong: if you like something, then it’s right.) As your sense of smell develops, you should become more adept at working out which fragrances will enhance each other.

 

 

 

 

Can perfume last all day?

  • A Perfume can last four to six hours (or even longer), depending on the ingredients, the strength they are mixed into the base carrier (usually alcohol, but increasingly, oil-based) – and how dry your skin is. (Perfumes dissipate much faster on dry skins, or when the air is particularly dry.) From the moment you apply: the top notes, or ‘head’ notes last around 5-15 minutes before they disappear. The middle notes last from two to four hours, and make up most of the fragrance. The base notes(very occasionally referred to as ‘fond’) usually last from four to six hours or longer.

How long will the perfume last on me?

  • That depends on the type of fragrance and on your unique odour footprint, as well as the oiliness or dryness of your skin; perfume likes to ‘cling’ to oil, and perfumes last longer on oilier-complexioned people. The strength of the fragrance is also a factor, and so are the notes: deep, smouldering base notes – the woods, resins, leather and tobacco etc. – last longer. So a fresh cologne will never last as long as an Ambrée.
  • That might mean the natural oil of your skin – or it might mean, if you have dry skin, that you would do well to smooth on a body lotion or a rich cream, before applying your perfume, to give it something to ‘cling’ to.

How can I make my perfume last longer on my skin?

  • If you moisturise your skin, this gives the oils something to ‘cling’ to, and will boost its staying power. So: if the ‘matching’ body products are available, it’s a beautiful way to ‘layer’ on your fragrance; body creams and body lotions, in particular, add emollients which hold perfume. If these range extensions aren’t available, go for an unscented body cream, butter or lotion which won’t clash with your chosen scent. Try spraying scent on clothing, linings of jackets, and in your hair (check the colour of the scent wont stain, first!) There are huge numbers of specially formulated scented hair mists to match fragrances now, as well. Because hair is porous, but doesn’t heat up like skin, the smell will last far longer.

 

 

 

Why can’t I smell my own perfume after several minutes?

  • The nose becomes desensitised and quickly gets used to the notes of your perfume. You may not be able to smell it at all after 30-40 minutes, although your friends and colleagues may still be able to. Additionally, you may be naturally ‘anosmic’ (unable to smell well / at all) to certain ingredients, which others can smell. This often happens with large molecule aromas such as musks.

Are there other things which will affect the smell of my perfume?

  • A. Diet has an impact: spicy foods can impact on the natural smell of your body, and meat-eaters are said to smell different to vegetarians. Environment also plays a part – both hot and cold climates affect the length of time a perfume lasts and its intensity. Age is another factor: the older you get, usually the drier the skin. (And for the years around menopause, hormonal shifts may mean a fragrance you have worn for years smells completely different.) Medication and certain health problems can also distort your perfume, on the skin. And as for smoking…? Smokers often report that their perfume has ‘changed’, when in fact, it’s the smoking impacting on their actual sense of smell…

Can perfume help change my mood?

  • A Yes: many people use fragrance as a lift for their spirits, and there is even a name for the science behind this: ‘aromachology’. It’s been scientifically proven that different aromas can impact on mood and emotions – not just personally, but affecting those around you. Bergamot is a feel-good ingredient, peppermint makes you perkier and more alert, and grapefruit – believe it or not – makes others believe you’re younger than you are…! This is one reason so many people now have a ‘wardrobe’ of fragrances, rather than just one signature scent: a perfume to make them feel romantic, after a hard day staring at a computer screen; to give them a relaxed, weekend feel on Saturdays and Sundays – or simply something that they spritz on for work, in the morning, which makes them feel focused and professional, in the same way as a smart suit or a crisp white shirt…

 

 

 

 

 

My perfume seems different to how I remember it. Is my nose playing tricks…?

  • A When an ingredient is classified as a potential allergen – by IFRA, the International Fragrance Association – two things may happen: it can be removed altogether, or its use limited by percentage, to minimise the risk of a susceptible perfume-wearer reacting.
  • When this happens, perfumes may be ‘tweaked’ by the manufacturer. In some cases, a process called ‘fractionation’ – which allows ingredient manufacturers to remove the allergenic molecule of an fragrance note, while leaving the rest intact – can allow the continued use of that ingredient.
  • Case in point: oak moss – invaluable in the creation of the chypre family of perfumes – has become restricted. Thierry Wasser, Guerlain’s in-house ‘nose’, explained to us that he now uses a ‘fractionated’ oak moss. ‘However, when you fractionate an ingredient, it leaves a “hole”: there is something missing,’ added Thierry. His solution to filling the sensory ‘hole’ in oak moss was to add a touch of – believe it or not – celery. It’s impossible to discern, to the rest of us – but it gave the rounded quality to that so-essential note that Thierry needed to return the classic Guerlain creation Mitsouko to its former, long-lasting glory.
  • Occasionally, however, a perfume may change because the company which makes it is bought by another, and the formulation changed.

Can perfume go ‘off’?

  • A. Fragrance certainly doesn’t last forever – but storing it correctly will help preserve the quality and lifespan of your perfume. The key is to keep it away from light and heat – so a bathroom, or a sunny dressing table, is NOT the place for your fragrance stash: higher temperatures affect the top notes of fragrance, making them musty, or more sour.
  • If you have a dark cupboard to store perfume in, or a drawer, that’s perfect. (Ideally, keep in the box, or – if you’re using a drawer – wrap bottles in a scarf, or even plastic, unglamorous as that is. Be aware that perfume that’s never been opened and kept in a dark place can last more than 40 years…!).
  • If you can’t manage that environment, store on a shelf that doesn’t get direct sunlight, in a not-too-hot room. Then once a bottle is open, you should get up to two years’ life out of it (we’ve had fragrances that last much longer…) Lighter, citrussy scents deteriorate faster than opulent florals…
  • You may find you get a better life out of a spray bottle than a splash: if you touch the glass to your skin, and oil from your body gets into the bottle, that can affect the lifespan of your perfume, too: touch your skin to the rim of the bottle – and don’t use stoppers for application, as they are in contact with the contents. NB Dark glass preserves scent for longer than clear versions.
  • But don’t hang onto any fragrance for too long…! Remember: perfume is to be worn, and enjoyed!

How do I know if it has gone off?

  • A The colour might darken and the liquid may thicken and/or become cloudy – and you can be sure it will not smell like your normal scent. There’s really nothing you can do to redeem it at this point, alas.

 

Looking for more fragrant myths and facts, but this time related to scent’s journey through history to the present day? We have pages of perfumed stories for you to explore in our fascinating History of fragrance section! And if your nose is craving some factual books to dip in to (along with fragrantly inspired works of fiction), then do have a browse of our Fragrant Reads to fill your bookshelves…

 

By Suzy Nightingale

Scent Storage Solutions: How to Organise Your Fragrance Samples & Bottles

Once we start clearing away festive decorations, and the house can suddenly seem rather dull, now is the perfect time to sort out your scent collection, so that you can see what you’ve got and (most importantly) re-discover neglected perfumes you put away and forgot about…

Perhaps you have a collection of hundreds of bottles, or would just like to organise the few you have in a more aesthetically pleasing (and practical) way? Maybe, instead, you have completely lost track of all the gorgeous fragrance samples you’ve been collection from our Discovery Boxes, and are wondering how on earth to sort out the sample vials?

 

 

Don’t panic! Have a look at some of the ingenious storage solutions and suggestions below, and perhaps have a January re-jig of your own…

 

The first thing to ensure is that your fragrance bottles and samples aren’t going to be stored in direct sunlight or too-near a heat source (such as a radiator). Yes, we know, those stunning bottles are begging to be put on display, but just make sure they’re not right opposite a window or on top of the central heating – otherwise, your precious perfumes will evaporate far more rapidly, and even ‘turn’ (go much darker in the bottle, with some of the top and middle notes literally burned off). That’s such a waste of money, and can be utterly heartbreaking if a favourite fragrance is suddenly no longer wearable.

 

 

  • Of course the absolute dream is to have one of those walk-in dedicated fragrance storage rooms one often sees on rich influencers’ TikTok accounts, but that simply isn’t within the reach of most of us. So perhaps consider looking online or on your local charity shop or hardware store’s sale section for some shelving units (or corner shelving, to really maximise space) that could be painted and utilised for your scent bottle collection? If you want to add further shelves or units in the future – if they’re all painted the same colour you don’t need to worry about them all being from the same place or not matching!

 

 

Photo by thehappysloths.com

  • Rather than riffling through an old shoe-box, acrylic shelves and boxes allow you to store smaller sizes and decants, while seeing at a glimpse what you want to wear next. Muji always have a great selection, but do also check out Hobbycraft, stationery and art supply shops, and online sellers, too. Just search for ‘acrylic storage’ and lots of brilliant storage options should present themselves.

 

 

  • Places like charity shops, Etsy and Not on the High Street are great places to search for vintage cake stands – why not choose all those fragrances that are ‘sparking the most joy’ for you right now and arrange them on the tiers, with lighter scents on top, going down to more sultry or heavier, evening-appropriate ones on the bottom layer?

 

 

  • In the days when travelling was infinitely more glamorous, one carried one’s essentials (perfume, obvs) in specially made trunks. Look on auction sites, in second-hand shops and boots fairs for similar vintage cases. Stack them up in a corner, with the top case open, holding your chosen fragrances for the month(s) ahead.

 

Photo by lipstickandlibraries.com

 

  • Sample bottles and tiny vials can be tricky to store en-masse, so consider using lab equipment items like test-tube holders and racks, or look for bullet boxes, makeup caddies, fishing tackle boxes, and tool boxes. You can often find these on Ebay and similar sites, so when trying to store these smaller items, search for these terms and… think outside the box!

 

 

  • Spice racks used to be a feature of everyone’s 1970s kitchen, but now we’re more likely to have whole cupboards-full of exotic ingredients than a faded jar of ‘Mixed Herbs’, so you can usually find the racks cheaply in charity shops. They’re perfect for holding miniature bottles! Also search for ‘nail varnish shelves’ online, and consider the homeware section of your local £1 shop or hardware store.

 

 

  • Consider challenging yourself to trying new fragrances each week (be they samples or bottles you have but rarely use). Lay them out on a pretty tray – easily found in a charity shop, Facebook Marketplace, or jumble sale – and it will focus your attention on them, rather than falling back into the same old habits of wearing the same old thing. And if they’re not sparking joy? Swap them with friends, or treat yourself to something you’ll really love from our Discovery Box selection.

PS: Our Discovery Boxes boxes are also the perfect size to store your samples neatly – sort them alphabetically, by name of house or type of fragrance and add a label to the edge so you see this clearly when stacked on a shelf. But however you choose to arrange and array your collection, the most important thing to remember is that it’s easy to find what you want (or those you didn’t even know you had, in many cases!) that they are ready to hand (and wrist) and so you can fuse and enjoy them afresh.

Shopping your own stash is a complete joy and, often, an olfactory revelation. That sample you once sniffed a year ago and wasn’t sure was ‘you’? Well, maybe it’s right for who you are right now…?!

Written by Suzy Nightingale