Fragrance families – where to begin?! Well. Imagine walking into a perfume shop, surrounded by countless bottles of scent, each promising a unique olfactory experience. It can be overwhelming, can’t it? But what if there was a way to navigate this fragrant universe more easily?
Enter the concept of fragrance families – a classification system that has been used by the perfume industry for years to group scents based on their dominant characteristics. The perfume world is divided into these ‘families’, and understanding them can be incredibly helpful in your fragrance journey. Interestingly, many of us tend to gravitate towards certain families without even realising it. We often fall for one family time and again, instinctively preferring scents from some fragrance families and disliking others. Or, you may find as your collection grows, you become entranced by exploring whole new families and sub-categories within them. You might also, for example, find yourself reaching for a particular type of scent in colder weather and another when the sun is shining.
At its core, the concept of fragrance families is part of the language of scent. It’s a way for perfumers, retailers, and fragrance enthusiasts to communicate about the characteristics of different perfumes. However, it can feel baffling and complicated, especially for those new to the world of fragrances. So, we put together a handy guide to Fragrance Families, each with their own main and sub sections.
These fragrance families have many members. Most of the main fragrance families have variations on their theme, which we call ‘near-relations’. If you find you like a particular family, it’s worth exploring these related scents as well – you might discover some new favourites!
When you’re fragrance shopping, knowing which family (or families) you’re drawn to can be incredibly helpful. An informed sales consultant can steer you towards scents you’re likely to enjoy, increasing your chances of finding a new ‘perfume love’. Remember, the absolute best way to learn about these fragrance families is simply to use your nose, and explore as many differing fragrance families (and their seemingly endless sub-genres) via perfume samples – it’s one of the reasons we started our Perfume Society Discovery Boxes, after all!
It’s worth noting that there’s no universal agreement in the perfume world about families and descriptions. It can be frustrating, but we’ve used our years of knowledge and common sense to simplify things as much as possible. If you’re just starting out, try to become familiar with each of the main families. As your nose develops, you can explore within those families and learn the nuances – much like learning about wine. You start by distinguishing between a Chardonnay and a Sancerre, and over time, you pick up the subtler differences within those types.
Let’s take a quick tour through some of the main fragrance families, but do click on each category to explore the scented sub-genres within them…
Fresh fragrances are uplifting, zesty, and cooling. Think of the whoosh of citrus notes like lemon, bergamot, and orange. These scents are clean and bright, perfect for summer – or any time you need a whoosh of energy – and ideal for splashing on liberally.
Floral fragrances often feature notes like rose, jasmine, peony, and gardenia, and for centuries has been one of the most popular of all families. It’s ultra-feminine and easily recognisable, conjuring up images of bouquets, June weddings, and spring blossoms, but also can be exotic, heady, intoxicating.
The Ambrée family (formerly known as Oriental) is seductive and voluptuous. These fragrances tend to feel ‘grown-up’ with a warm, heavy richness that’s often more suited to evening wear, or for those who prefer gilded, glamorous, glowing scents with complex formulas and warm, spiced or resinous bases.
For Amber fragrances, read our feature on the fascinating history and (often) the confusion surrounding this category in our forthcoming sixty first edition of The Scented Letter magazine. Make sure you’re signed up here to get your FREE digital copy, and to be alerted when the print issue is available to purchase!
Woody fragrances, as the name suggests, feature notes of various woods like sandalwood, cedar, and oudh. They can be given different spins by adding spices, fruits, or herbs, and as woods are usually very long lasting notes and pair so well with other ingredients, they make up a vast number of fragrances available today.
Fougère fragrances, named after the French word for ‘fern’, often feature lavender, geranium, and oakmoss. Originally created for women, this family now includes many unisex scents.Woody fragrances, as the name suggests, feature notes of various woods like sandalwood, cedar, and oudh. They can be given different spins by adding spices, fruits, or herbs.
The Chypre family, pronounced ‘sheep-ra’, is built around a woody, mossy accord of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum. These fragrances are warm and dry, often with complex, nuanced floral or fruity elements, with many notes melding together to become rounded, unfurling in layers as they warm up on skin.
The Gourmand family is the newest addition to the fragrance universe. These scents feature ‘edible’ notes like caramel, chocolate, and vanilla, creating warm and comforting fragrances. Hugely helped by the success of Mugler’s Angel fragrance in the 90s, this family has once again expanded and is set to trend for ages yet.
Remember, these families are just a guide. The world of fragrance is deeply personal, often disagreed about, and the most important thing is how a scent makes you feel when you wear it. So, armed with this knowledge of fragrance families, why not embark on your own olfactory adventure? You might be surprised by what you discover, and which families you end up gravitating towards as you try them for yourself…
Written by Suzy Nightingale
