Tag: fragrance families

What IS a Chypre? PLUS: Five, fabulous contemporary examples to try…

Chypre fragrances have long captivated the perfume world with their timeless elegance and versatility. Named after the island of Cyprus, where many of its key ingredients flourish, the Chypre family is defined by a harmonious blend of citrus top notes, a floral or fruity heart, and a warm, woody base featuring oakmoss, labdanum, and patchouli. While rooted in tradition, modern Chypre fragrances have evolved to reflect contemporary tastes, offering innovative interpretations that remain true to their heritage.

 

 

 

 

Firstly: What IS a Chypre?!

 Delving into the world of fragrance, one quickly encounters the term ‘Fragrance Families’. While some categories like ‘Citrus’ may seem self-explanatory, others, such as ‘Chypre’, can leave even seasoned perfume enthusiasts scratching their heads. Understanding these families is key to unlocking the vast and intricate universe of scent, helping us navigate our personal preferences and make informed choices about future olfactory adventures.

The concept of Fragrance Families emerged as a necessity in the 19th century, when perfumery underwent a revolution. Prior to this, fragrances were relatively simple affairs – primarily fresh colognes or homemade floral waters. However, with scientific advancements, particularly the discovery of synthetic molecules, perfumery entered its golden age. Houses like Coty, Guerlain, and Chanel began offering increasingly complex aromas, necessitating a new system of categorisation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Among these families, Chypre stands out as particularly enigmatic. Pronounced ‘sheep-ra’, this category takes its name from the French word for Cyprus, the mythical birthplace of Aphrodite. Chypre fragrances are characterised by a warm, dry accord built around bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum. This sophisticated blend, which can be traced back to Roman times, was popularised by François Coty’s groundbreaking 1917 creation, simply named ‘Chypre’.

The Chypre family exemplifies the depth and complexity of modern perfumery. While its core structure remains consistent, perfumers often accentuate different facets – be they floral, fruity, or woody – creating a rich tapestry of olfactory experiences within this single category. As we explore the world of Chypre, we uncover a fragrance family that is at once timeless and endlessly adaptable, continuing to captivate and surprise even in contemporary interpretations.

A Chypre can be interpreted in so many exciting olfactive ways, and here we delve into five exceptional examples that embody the spirit of Chypre, while embracing unique, modern twists. Which would you like to try first…?

 

 

 

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman

Ormonde Woman redefines the Chypre genre with an enigmatic blend of rare and unconventional ingredients. The opening is a vivid interplay of grass, cardamom, and coriander, evoking the green freshness of a forest floor kissed by morning dew. As the fragrance develops, black hemlock – a seldom-used note – takes centre stage, lending an intriguing resinous quality with faint hints of liquorice and wisps of smoky wood. Violet and jasmine add a floral softness to the heart, balancing the dark mystique of the hemlock. The base is an earthy yet comforting combination of vetiver, cedarwood, sandalwood, and amber that grounds the composition with warmth and depth. Ormonde Woman feels like wandering through cool, shadow-dappled woodland paths – and its hypnotic complexity makes it a standout contemporary Chypre.

From £235 for 88ml eau de parfum harveynichols.com

 

 

 

 

 

Amouage Memoir Woman

A gloriously luxurious exploration of contrasts within the Chypre family, the opening notes of mandarin orange and absinth offer a sparkling yet slightly bitter introduction, complemented by the spice of cardamom and pink pepper. The heart reveals layers of opulent white blossoms – rose, jasmine, and orange blossom – woven with clove and incense for an ethereal smokiness. As it dries down, Memoir Woman unveils its rich base: oakmoss lends a classic Chypre earthiness; leather and castoreum add animalic intensity, while labdanum and styrax provide resinous warmth. This fragrance feels like stepping into a dreamscape where memories intertwine with future aspirations – an evocative reinterpretation of Chypre that is both timeless and daring.

£320 for 100ml eau de parfum selfridges.com

 

 

 

 

EAU.MG Cheeky Chypre

Cheeky Chypre bursts forth with juicy mandarin and lemon entwined with tart rhubarb—a playful opening that feels like sunlight dancing on citrus groves. Romantic peony and rose absolute form a delicate floral heart, softened by olibanum’s meditative resinous quality. The base introduces cedarwood and sandalwood for a grounding woody warmth, while saffron adds an exotic spiciness that elevates the composition. Patchouli anchors the fragrance firmly in its Chypre roots, accompanied by cistus and benzoin for a sweetly balsamic finish. Cheeky Chypre is vivacious yet sophisticated—a modern take on Chypre that balances brightness with depth.

£95 for 50ml eau de parfum in our Shop

 

 

 

 

Goutal Tenue de Soirée

Inspired by the glamour of Parisian evenings, Tenue de Soirée captures the essence of audacity and elegance in a contemporary Chypre form. Italian bergamot adds a sparkling citrus brightness to freesia’s delicate floral touch in the top notes. The heart blooms with iris – a silky powdery note – and violet’s sweet yet slightly green nuances. Water lily introduces an aquatic freshness that contrasts beautifully with the earthy richness of patchouli in the base. Praline lends gourmand sweetness while musk wraps everything in soft sensuality. Tenue de Soirée feels like slipping into an evening dress before embarking on an adventure through Paris – it’s romantic yet daringly modern.

From £126 for 50ml eau de parfum harveynichols.com

 

 

 

 

 

Nishane Hacivat

Paying fragrant homage to Turkish culture through its vibrant reinterpretation of Chypre elements, the radiant opening beams with juicy pineapple and zesty bergamot – a cheerful burst that feels invigoratingly fresh. Grapefruit adds tangy sharpness before jasmine emerges in the heart as a luminous floral counterpoint to earthy patchouli and cedarwood. The dry-down reveals oakmoss alongside dry wood accords for classic Chypre sophistication but infused with contemporary brightness. Hacivat’s joyful structure evokes optimism and artistry – it’s a fragrance that celebrates tradition while embracing  contemporary vibe.

£230 for 50ml extrait de parfum libertylondon.com

 

These fragrances demonstrate how perfumers continue to innovate within the Chypre family while honouring its rich history. Each scent offers its own unique perspective on this beloved genre – whether through rare ingredients or unexpected combinations – all while retaining the warm, woody elegance that defines Chypres at their core (and, we feel, demanding many encores in your fragrance wardrobe!)

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Fragrance families: what are they? How can you recognise them?

Fragrance families – where to begin?! Well. Imagine walking into a perfume shop, surrounded by countless bottles of scent, each promising a unique olfactory experience. It can be overwhelming, can’t it? But what if there was a way to navigate this fragrant universe more easily?

 

Enter the concept of fragrance families – a classification system that has been used by the perfume industry for years to group scents based on their dominant characteristics. The perfume world is divided into these ‘families’, and understanding them can be incredibly helpful in your fragrance journey. Interestingly, many of us tend to gravitate towards certain families without even realising it. We often fall for one family time and again, instinctively preferring scents from some fragrance families and disliking others. Or, you may find as your collection grows, you become entranced by exploring whole new families and sub-categories within them. You might also, for example, find yourself reaching for a particular type of scent in colder weather and another when the sun is shining.

At its core, the concept of fragrance families is part of the language of scent. It’s a way for perfumers, retailers, and fragrance enthusiasts to communicate about the characteristics of different perfumes. However, it can feel baffling and complicated, especially for those new to the world of fragrances. So, we put together a handy guide to Fragrance Families, each with their own main and sub sections.

 

what are fragrance families

 

These fragrance families have many members. Most of the main fragrance families have variations on their theme, which we call ‘near-relations’. If you find you like a particular family, it’s worth exploring these related scents as well – you might discover some new favourites!

When you’re fragrance shopping, knowing which family (or families) you’re drawn to can be incredibly helpful. An informed sales consultant can steer you towards scents you’re likely to enjoy, increasing your chances of finding a new ‘perfume love’. Remember, the absolute best way to learn about these fragrance families is simply to use your nose, and explore as many differing fragrance families (and their seemingly endless sub-genres) via perfume samples – it’s one of the reasons we started our Perfume Society Discovery Boxes, after all!

 

fragrance families

 

It’s worth noting that there’s no universal agreement in the perfume world about families and descriptions. It can be frustrating, but we’ve used our years of knowledge and common sense to simplify things as much as possible. If you’re just starting out, try to become familiar with each of the main families. As your nose develops, you can explore within those families and learn the nuances – much like learning about wine. You start by distinguishing between a Chardonnay and a Sancerre, and over time, you pick up the subtler differences within those types.

Let’s take a quick tour through some of the main fragrance families, but do click on each category to explore the scented sub-genres within them…

Fresh fragrances are uplifting, zesty, and cooling. Think of the whoosh of citrus notes like lemon, bergamot, and orange. These scents are clean and bright, perfect for summer  – or any time you need a whoosh of energy – and ideal for splashing on liberally.

Floral fragrances often feature notes like rose, jasmine, peony, and gardenia, and for centuries has been one of the most popular of all families. It’s ultra-feminine and easily recognisable, conjuring up images of bouquets, June weddings, and spring blossoms, but also can be exotic, heady, intoxicating.

The Ambrée family (formerly known as Oriental) is seductive and voluptuous. These fragrances tend to feel ‘grown-up’ with a warm, heavy richness that’s often more suited to evening wear, or for those who prefer gilded, glamorous, glowing scents with complex formulas and warm, spiced or resinous bases.

For Amber fragrances, read our feature on the fascinating history and (often) the confusion surrounding this category in our forthcoming sixty first edition of The Scented Letter magazine. Make sure you’re signed up here to get your FREE digital copy, and to be alerted when the print issue is available to purchase!

Woody fragrances, as the name suggests, feature notes of various woods like sandalwood, cedar, and oudh. They can be given different spins by adding spices, fruits, or herbs, and as woods are usually very long lasting notes and pair so well with other ingredients, they make up a vast number of fragrances available today.

Fougère fragrances, named after the French word for ‘fern’, often feature lavender, geranium, and oakmoss. Originally created for women, this family now includes many unisex scents.Woody fragrances, as the name suggests, feature notes of various woods like sandalwood, cedar, and oudh. They can be given different spins by adding spices, fruits, or herbs.

The Chypre family, pronounced ‘sheep-ra’, is built around a woody, mossy accord of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum. These fragrances are warm and dry, often with complex, nuanced floral or fruity elements, with many notes melding together to become rounded, unfurling in layers as they warm up on skin.

The Gourmand family is the newest addition to the fragrance universe. These scents feature ‘edible’ notes like caramel, chocolate, and vanilla, creating warm and comforting fragrances. Hugely helped by the success of Mugler’s Angel fragrance in the 90s, this family has once again expanded and is set to trend for ages yet.

 

 

Remember, these families are just a guide. The world of fragrance is deeply personal, often disagreed about, and the most important thing is how a scent makes you feel when you wear it. So, armed with this knowledge of fragrance families, why not embark on your own olfactory adventure? You might be surprised by what you discover, and which families you end up gravitating towards as you try them for yourself…

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

What IS a fougère? Pteridomania & the frenzy for fern fragrances

When describing types of fragrance, the term fougère can seem bewildering – both the meaning and how on earth to pronounce it.

French for ‘fern-like’, you say it ‘foo-jair’ (with the ‘j’ a little soft – almost ‘foo-shair’), when you think of a fern’s smell, what comes to mind? Whatever you think of, that smell memory is quite likely to have been influenced by Houbigant’s Fougère Royale – created in 1882 by Paul Parquet, and much copied by those who clamoured to achieve a measure of its success.

While we might imagine a shady-forest smell emanating from a fern, the majority aren’t fragrant to any great extent. And although the ingredients so key to Parquet’s original accord – oak moss, geranium, bergamot and (most notably) coumarin – are now collectively referred to as ‘fougère’ (often with lavender or other aromatic herbs thrown in for good effect), it’s the alchemy of the perfumer recreating that ‘natural’ smell memory: the whole woodland seemingly wafting from the bottle.

“Gathering Ferns” (Helen Allingham) from The Illustrated London News, July 1871.

Some time before Parquet’s fragrant foragings, ‘fern mania’ was sweeping the nation, and it caused an amount of worry when women began wandering, sometimes alone or – worse! – gambolling with groups of young man in the woodlands, in search of their charms… What business had women convening with nature outside of their perfectly manicured cottage gardens? Well, ‘Pteridomania’, meaning Fern Madness or Fern Craze was the term for this frenzy, coined in 1855 by Charles Kingsley in his book Glaucus, or the ‘Wonders of the Shore’. In it he sought to reassure anxious parents:

Your daughters, perhaps, have been seized with the prevailing ‘Pteridomania‘ … and wrangling over unpronounceable names of species (which seem different in each new Fern-book that they buy) … and yet you cannot deny that they find enjoyment in it, and are more active, more cheerful, more self-forgetful over it, than they would have been over novels and gossip, crochet and Berlin-wool.

So – society’s nerves soothed and the morals of females intact – the time was ripe for fern fragrances to unfurl; but it took a unique olfactory discovery to kickstart that particular perfume craze.

It was the extraction of coumarin ­– one of the first synthetics to appear in perfumery – which made the fougère such a landmark scent. But how many people outside the industry would be able to describe coumarin’s smell? Not many, I’m guessing.

A plate from The Ferns of Great Britain and Ireland, a book from the era of Pteridomania.

Coumarin is found in tonka beans and cinnamon, but also occurs naturally in bison grass and green tea. It’s classed as a ‘lactone’ – (milky, skin-like) – a complex molecule that’s the scent of sweet hay drying in the sunshine with a slight waft of warm horse; a cold glass of fizz sipped on newly-mown grass, a fine cigar fresh from the humidor, a warm cookie dunked in cold milk. All of these things and not one in particular: the scientist’s hand working in harmony with the artful perfumer to create a magical realism. Because the true skill of a perfumer is to take ingredients and transform them into something we think we already recognise, sparking those scent memories and creating new ones to fill the gaps.

In fact, Parquet was called the ‘greatest perfumer of his time’ by no less than Ernest Beaux, the creator of Chanel No. 5, and was the first to truly understand and appreciate the use of synthetic aroma materials in fragrance composition. Previously used as mere substitutes for naturally derived raw materials, Parquet saw a chance to deploy them as unique smells in their own right – adding structure, poetry and space within perfumes that sought not to mimic the natural world but to add to it, to improve on perfection. And so the fougère fragrance family was born.

Traditionally seen as a scent for the chaps – possibly sporting tweed and a monocle – in fact Guerlain’s masterpiece of Jicky, launched in 1889, is a more ‘feminine’ fougère (the first unisex scent, too) which ramped up the crackle of dry lavender, adding sweetly mown hay and toasted almond-like flourishes of coumarin. More recently, we’ve seen an increasing number of gender-fluid fougères striding forth – perhaps chiming with our collective urge to ‘return to nature’ during the pandemic; or simply an urge that preceded Covid-19, a perfumed riposte to political unease?

Whatever the reason, the resurgence of the fougère is to be celebrated. Cooling on steamy days, comforing in more inclement weather, these are the type of scent to boost your spirits while patting your hand and telling you everything’s going to be okay. Wander into the woodland yourself, awhile, and try these fougères – from classical forest to contemporary fairytale…

Houbigant Fougère Royale A sprig of herbs carefully tucked into the lapel of a herringbone jacket, the olive from a dry Martini sucked in a slightly lascivious manner while they’re looking the other way. £130 for 100ml eau de parfum libertylondon.com

Guerlain Jicky Somewhere between breakfast and midnight, fog-shrouded moorland; pale wool blanket clutched close, bare feet on flagstones, forbidden hipflask swigged reading Wuthering Heights. £96 for 100ml eau de toilette houseoffraser.co.uk

Yves Saint Laurent Kouros Freshly-scrubbed and shining with smooth words and practiced simplicity, but clean sheets cannot hide the indiscretion and animal instincts of the night before. £50 for 50ml eau de toilette theperfumeshop.com

Creed Viking Cologne A bountiful burst of freshness leads to explorations of verdant landscapes re-awakening; geranium, herbs, lavender and nutmeg atop glacial lakes reflecting shinshine. £175for 50ml eau de parfum  creedfragrances.co.uk

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Milano Cento HIM A woodland wander with someone dashingly Italian (who knows not to wear sandals with socks), the citrus breeze segues to an herbaceously dappled grove and aromatic amour. £49 for 100ml eau de toilette roullierwhite.com

4160 Tuesdays The Lion Cupboard Ferns pressed between pages of a diary, love letters tied in faded ribbons, a lipstick kiss on a foxed mirror, silk scarves with the faint tang of a gentleman’s Cologne. £55 for 30ml eau de parfum 4160tuesdays.com

Partere Run of the River A bare-foot meander through clover-strewn lawns, budding freshness in the air, lemon-thyme and clary sage encricled by a languorous caress of incense and oakmoss. £95 for 50ml eau de parfum parterrefragrances.com

By Suzy Nightingale

Fragrance Family Friday: Woody

As part of our continuing series exploring the differing Fragrance Families – the ways that scents are classified – today we’re getting up close and personal with Woody…

Many fragrances contain wood in some aspect, but what exactly designates a fragrance as ‘Woody’?

The clue, quite simply, is in the name – although some of these fragrances do smell like they’re closely related to the chypre family. It’s true: they share some characteristics, but generally without the floral flourishes of the chypres.

Perfumers have so a fabulous palette of woody elements to weave into their creations:  sandalwood, cedar, agarwood (a.k.a. oud), guiaiacwood, as well as patchouli and vetiver.  (These last two aren’t woods:  they’re roots and leaves, respectively – but you’d never guess, from their intensely earthy, woody character.)

Woody fragrances can be given a spin by adding spices/fruity notes, or herbs – so if you like woods (or you’re simply interested in learning what they smell like), do explore the other members of this family, too.

In the meantime, why not try some samples of this Fragrance Family at home? We can’t think of a better introduction than to plunge into the exotic delights of Fragrance Du Bois…

Fragrance Du Bois Oud Noir Intense

FAMILY: WOODY
TOP NOTES: bergamot, cardamom
HEART NOTES: rose, jasmine
BASE NOTES: sandalwood, saffron, patchouli, vanilla, musk, amber, 100% organic oudh oil

A perfect marriage of bergamot and cardamom blends smoothly into floral, woody notes of rose, jasmine, amber, sandalwood, vanilla and musk, stimulating the senses with its complexity, while the oudh base adds to its strength and depth.

Fragrance Du Bois Sahraa Oud

FAMILY: WOODY
TOP NOTES: grapefruit
HEART NOTES: rose absolute, geranium, jasmine, patchouli
BASE NOTES: black pepper, sandalwood, saffron, vanilla, amber, 100% organic oudh oil

Sahraa Our immediately invokes the mystery and majesty of the desert, and has been crafted for the sophisticated palates of both Middle Eastern connoisseurs and aficionados of fine perfumes. Beautiful floral top and heart notes of grapefruit, rose absolute, geranium and jasmine, create a symphony that blends softly into base notes of patchouli, sandalwood, saffron, vanilla, amber and oudh.

Fragrance Du Bois are, quite unashamedly, so oudh-obsessed. And are we surprised? Derived from the dark resinous wood of the Aquilaria tree, oudh (often spelled ‘oud’) is an utterly fascinating material – a resin that occurs in less than 7% of trees, in the wild. Which explains why the material is so precious – and, sought-after. And not all oudh, it transpires, is harvested with the focus on sustainability that Fragrance Du Bois are renowned for.

In fact, so Fragrance Du Bois tell us: ‘Due to illegal logging, wild resources have been severely depleted. So, since 2004, all species of the Aquilaria tree have been protected under CITES [Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species].’

Created by some of the best noses in the world, each fragrance expresses true mastery of this unique ‘liquid gold’ (as oudh oil is known). You’ll fall in love, we guarantee it – even you oudh naysayers!

Be transported to exotic fragrant lands, happy in the knowledge that Fragrance Du Bois is also looking after caring for the environment, planting a tree for every full size fragrance purchased.

If your appetiete for Woody fragrances has been whetted, you can try a Fragrance Du Bois Discovery Set including these two we’ve reviewed above, along with three other of their fabulous creations, exploring the other fragrance families through oudh, for only £20!

Fragrance Family Friday: ambrée

As part of our ongoing feature – Fragrance Family Friday – today we focus on: Ambrée. What fragrances are found in this category, and which should you try? (Find a link below, too, for the perfect set to help you explore this category at home…)

With their spices, musks, incense and resins, the Ambrées are rooted in perfume’s own history, using many of the same ingredients today that were first enjoyed in the orient – India and Arabia – at the dawn of fragrance creation.

Ingredients like heliotrope, sandalwood, coumarin, orris, vanilla and gum resins are classically used within an Ambrée fragrance structure – though these can be tweaked, for men, women (and fragrances designed to be ‘shared’).

Seductive, voluptuous and with a va-va-voom, Ambrées tend to feel ‘grown-up’ – and many have a warm, heavy, diffusive richness that’s more suited to after-dark wearing.  They linger sensually on the skin:  they’re heavy on the base notes, which tend to last longer. However, there is a new ‘mini-family’ of fresher Ambrées, with a lighter touch, and a more ‘daytime’ feel.

Many of the original fragrance families have additions and cross-overs of sub-categoreies, so none of them are set in stone, and you’ll find much discussion in books and online, on eactly which fragrances should be in which families. Nobody seems to absolutely agree! So we’ll focus instead on some fragrances you might like to try under the umbrella heading of ‘Ambrée’…

Memoize London are a niche house that excel at crafting exquisite scents – Ambrées being a particular passion of theirs – celebrating ‘the importance of creating a harmonious balance between fragrance and emotion’. The discovery set has been curated to explore the Seven Deadly Sins, with ambrées being the perfect family to explore the sultry, addictive theme, hence why five of the eight fragrances are Ambrée in nature!

 

TRISTISIA

FAMILY: Ambrée
TOP NOTES: red roses, jasmine
HEART NOTES: vanilla
BASE NOTES: oudh, patchouli, civet, amber

A wonderful Ambrée blend with rich red rose and white jasmine top notes beautifully balanced with creamy vanilla heart wrapped in warm base notes of oudh, patchouli, civet and amber.

 

 

Avaritia:

FAMILY: Ambrée
TOP NOTES: orange , bergamot, armoise, Geranium
HEART NOTES: jasmine, cedarwood
BASE NOTES: patchouli, musk, amberwood, sandalwood

Moreish woods with unsparing jasmine will leave you craving for more. An Ambrée blend of amber and patchouli, with sweet musk, interlaced with vanilla and spices, and a top note of citrus and herbs.

 

 

ERA

FAMILY: Ambrée
TOP NOTES: saffron
HEART NOTES: iris, ylang ylang, jasmine
BASE NOTES: myrrh, amber, oudh, leather

A sophisticated and rich Ambrée fragrance that reveals a saffron top note that mingles with a beautiful iris, ylang ylang and jasmine heart. Exotic, warm base notes myrrh, amber, oud and leather create the depth in the blend.

 

 

SUPERBIA

FAMILY: Ambrée
TOP NOTES: rose, ylang ylang, orchid
HEART NOTES: cedarwood, sandalwood, saffron
BASE NOTES: oudh, leather, amber, musk, patchouli

A luxurious fragrance opening with floral top notes of rose, ylang ylang and orchid infused by fine woods resting on a bed of rich oudh wood, leather, amber, musk and patchouli notes.

 

 

BLACK AVARITIA

FAMILY: Ambrée
TOP NOTES: grapefruit, honey
HEART NOTES: ambrette, cistus labdanum, incense, Kashmir fusion, oudh, violet
BASE NOTES: amber, cedarwood, musk, powder, sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver

A woody Ambrée fragrance leading with top notes of grapefruit and honey. A luxurious heart of ambrette, cistus, incense fusion, kashmir fusion, oud and violet, rests on a base of sandalwood, cedarwood, amber, musk, vanilla and vetiver.

 

There’s much to explore in this sumptuous set and we know you’re going to adore it as much as we do. Apart from the five ambrée fragrances we’ve highlighted as a must-try, here; there are a three fragrances to explore, included in the set: Luxuria, a beautiful floral fragrance, opening with waves of juicy cassis and raspberry; Gula, a complex floral weaving jasmine and galbanum with sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla and black musk; and Invidia, a floriental (sub-section of ambrées) marrying white tuberose, orchid and ylang ylang with undertones of woodiness and tobacco.

So prepare to have your senses tantalised by these opulent ambrées and their equally fabulous floral and floriental friends – and be one of the first to discover this new fragrance house…

 

Memoize London Discovery Set £57 – find it here