…violets are blue & we love you!

Roses are red, violets are blue, sugar is sweet, and so are you.’ A rhyme whispered in Valentine’s cards for centuries; though here at The Perfume Society, our hearts beat faster for the bloom as used in perfumery (obvs). Far from mere rhyming fodder, violets have unfurled their powdery, beguiling petals through fragrance history, leaving a trail of powdery romance and perfumed intrigue in their wake…

 

 

Imagine ancient garlands of violets crowning heads to ward off headaches, or Athenian revellers sipping violet-scented wine – a floral remedy turned indulgence. These delicate flowers, symbols of fertility and fragility, have been surrendering their essence to perfumers since Arab alchemists first coaxed their scent into oils. Yet it was Napoleon’s rose-tinted devotion that truly cemented their legacy. His wife, Empress Marie Louise Bonaparte, nurtured a violet-growing empire in Parma, where the air still hums with Viola Odorata’s purple whispers. [Psst: Read our fascinating spritz through fragrant history for many more such anecdotes…]

Modern noses know violet as a soft, powdered kiss – a cousin to iris, but with a sugar-dusted femininity. Yet that tender bloom in your perfume? Likely conjured by alchemy. In 1893, chemists unlocked the secret of ionones, the aroma molecules that make violets sing. Today, these synthetics dance through fragrances like invisible ballerinas, adding raspberry-tinged woods or dewy sweetness.

 

 

 

 

But perfumers tread carefully: too much, and the nose grows numb, lost in a violet fog. As a perfumer on the fascinating blog Alchemologie, in an article about creating a natural violet accord reports, ‘Alpha ionone [natural molecules which produce the smell in a violet] is a tricky substance to work with.  It awards the sniffer with a temporary anosmia after one or two whiffs… particularly difficult as you have to take constant breaks to allow your nose to catch up.’ As the feature suggests, it’s another take on the phrase ‘shrinking violet’!

 

From ancient crowns to molecular magic, violets remain the shy seducers of perfumery – petals dipped in nostalgia, yet forever blooming anew. Perfect for February, when love stories old and new can linger fragrantly in the frosty air… So, why not try these violet-tinged scents and see which you fall for?

 

 

 

Guerlain Insolence 

An audacious violet, Insolence is a love letter to valour. Berries and orange blossom dance with an unapologetic violet, creating a powdery whirlwind of femininity. This fragrance embodies the spirit of uncompromising passion, leaving a trail of sweet rebellion in its wake.

£130 for 75ml eau de parfum libertylondon.com

 

 

 

Violet fragrances Parfum de Marly Palatine

Parfums de Marly Palatine

A modern floral symphony, Palatine showcases violet as a contemporary muse. Opening with crisp mandarin, bergamot, and pear, it unfurls to reveal a daring violet petal at its heart. The scent settles into a velvety embrace of musk and creamy sandalwood, instilling confidence and freedom with every spritz.

£245 for 75ml eau de parfum selfridges.com

 

 

 

 

Violet fragrances

Byredo Mojave Ghost 

A desert mirage in a bottle, Mojave Ghost captures the ethereal beauty of rare blossoms in arid landscapes. Powdery violet mingles with delicate magnolia and sandalwood, while musky ambrette and crisp cedar provide an earthy foundation. This genderless scent evokes the raw spirit of wilderness, leaving a graceful, lingering sillage on the skin.

£150 for 50ml eau de parfum selfridges.com

 

 

 

Penhaligon’s The Favourite

A regal bouquet fit for a queen, The Favourite weaves violet into a tapestry of sophistication. Iris and musk greet with a darling smile, while sandalwood provides a majestic stage. This fragrance tells a story of power and elegance, with violet playing a supporting role in a court of floral intrigue.

£175 for 100ml eau de parfum fortnumandmason.com

 

 

 

 

Juliette Has a Gun Lipstick Fever

A playful homage to vintage glamour, Lipstick Fever flirts with violet’s classic charm. Iris absolute and raspberry notes evoke the waxy sweetness of a freshly applied lipstick, while patchouli and vanilla add depth and sensuality. This scent is a cheeky wink to femininity, bottling the essence of a perfectly made-up pout.

£110 for 100ml eau de parfum thefragranceshop.co.uk

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Berdoues Collection Grand Cru Violette – gorgeousness, bottled!

At the turn of the century, violets would be carried as hand-tied posies by fashionable ladies about town, given as tokens of regard by prospective lovers and treasured for their elegant and discreet connotations of love. In the past few decades, we have perhaps come to think of violets as a bit stuffy, a little fuddy-duddy as fragrances to wear now. Get ready to change your opinion, however, for the house of Berdoues have come to waft a new wave of contemporary vivaciousness, with Millésmme Fleur Violette.
Far from the ‘shrinking violets’ we may think of, or perhaps the famous sugared sweeties that tasted of perfume, violet is beloved by perfumers, who will tell you that although the majority of the flowers aren’t scented, just crumple those glossy green leaves and you’ll be met by a juicy, tender scent they adore to use in modern re-tellings of the violet’s story…

Paying homage to the delicacy of the plant, Berdoues Violette is part of their Collection Grand Crus – extra special ingredients celebrated in fragrant form. A raw material that’s both delicate and fragile, violet has been inspiring the perfumers of this historic house since 1902.Berdoues say: ‘The fragrance is a bold, modern expression of the leaf of the French violet, magnified by blending Iris from China with Patchouli from Indonesia. In 2017, Sophie Berdoes, from the fourth generation of the family, wanted to bring Violette into the here nd now. She dreamt of a powdery, contemporary and chic violet, more lifelike than its fairytale forebear.’
Brilliant nose Benoist Lapouza was chosen to compose this ‘here and now’ violet, and can we just say that the ceramic bottle addorned with bold strokes of violet paint and topped with a vintage-style atomiser is just drop-dead dressing table worthy. Oh my!
Not that it’s all about the bottle, for the fragrance itself is both softly cocooning and cut through with a citrus zest to lift the powder to a fizzy, almost sherbert like sensation when spritzed. Swirled throughout with supple, suede-like iris and warmed by a base of ultra-smooth patchouli and vetiver – think uber-cool Parisian chic but the kind of person who wears a Victorian style Alexander McQueen jacket with their favourite pair of jeans, or a suede jacket nochalantly thrown over a couture gown. Basically, the kind of gal we’d like to be. But dapper dandies must absolutely try this on their skin, too – we adore a gent who dares to wear a floral with style, and this is definitely shareable.

Berdoues Violette £110 for 100ml eau de parfum
Buy it at Harvey Nichols
Written by Suzy Nightingale
 

L’Occitane celebrate 40th anniversary with (pre-launch!) discovery of Violette & Rose De Mai

To celebrate an amazing 40 years of their existence, L’Occitane are offering you the opportunity to discover the brand new limited edition fragrance – Violette & Rose De Mai.

Fragrant fans of L’Occitane who join them in stores on Tuesday 19th & Wednesday 20th April (tht’s next week, folks) will be treated to a sneak-preview of the Spring-fresh new perfume before it even launches. What’s more, each customer buying any full size L’Occitane fragrance on the day will receive a gift worth over £20*. Tempting? We thought so…

Exclusively created by perfumer Violaine Callas for the Chelsea Flower Show, the scent seeks to capture ‘…the essence of Provence in a single spritz. The fragrance delicately opens with soaring notes of bergamote and rhubarb, paired with citrus orange. The heart unites the powdery violette leaves to the graceful Rose De Mai from Grasse. A warm base then rounds off this delicious scent, leaving behind a woody trail of santal and musk.’

With stores nationwide, find your nearest L’Occitane by clicking here. We wish you a happy sneaky-sniffing session and hope you enjoy!

Written by Suzy Nightingale

* Offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Official launch date nationwide: 21st April