‘The fingerless gloves are ON as Claudia Winkleman returns to The Traitors castle with an all-star cast who are ready to play the ultimate game of deceit and betrayal…’ – The BBC
Arguably the biggest televisual ‘appointment viewing’ in years, certainly in this era of streaming shows whenever we wish and not being beholden to live TV schedules; Celebrity Traitors has debuted the first two episodes to much acclaim (and heated debate). So of course, we’re rolling up our flouncy sleeves to prepare another fragrance-matching opportunity.
There’s a whole series of these ‘scenting’ blogs for The Perfume Society, in which we take a zeitgeist cultural icon of the time and suggest scents to match literature, art, music and movies. In making connections and drawing allusions between characters we may know well and the complexities of attempting to describe an invisible smell, it’s our belief that they serve as a kind of shortcut to a truer understanding of both the perfume and whatever you’re pairing it with.
Now, holding up our promise of being SPOILER FREE (so therefore not revealing who the Traitors are, or which of the first Faithfuls have been bumped off or at risk), we’re delving in to the world of the castle’s current residents, and hoping to provide perfume suggestions that add to the atmosphere, or could help bolster the celebrity contestants during the many trials and various tribulations they will endure.
The full list of celebrities taking part this year, and competing to win money for their chosen charities, are:
Tom Daley – Olympian, Author, Broadcaster and Entrepreneur
Think of each of these recommendations as olfactory cloaks (for Traitors and Faithfuls alike to don). And though we’ve only pulled out a few examples here to perfume-match: which fragrances, we wonder, would YOU pair with your favourite celebrity, and why…?
[P.S: Click on the linked name of each celebrity to be whisked to their interview page on The Traitors Wiki website, BUT: BE WARNED, those pages do contain spoilers, so don’t read until you’ve caught up with the show!]
Obviously we plumped for a perfume that would bring a sense of familiarity and comfort for Clare, and of course (Clare often being found commentating at horse racing tracks and equestrian occasions around the country) it had to be something horsey. So what better than this hay-strewn, grassy-nuzzle from Sarah Baker’s stable? It veritably gallops out the bottle, Sunlit pastures meet leather saddles on verdant fields, ripe peaches drip luscious juices as tobacco and amber sizzle salaciously. We feel this perfume proffers nostalgic assurance alongside a serving of sass – exactly what Clare will need to stay grounded among this lot…
Paying homage to the craftsmanship and timelessness of Savile Row tailoring is this creation by Paul Guerlain (yes, he belongs to that fabled bloodline, grandson of Jean-Paul), which we feel befits the inherent British stylishness of Stephen Fry. Fragrance mastery, then, is almost a given, here expressed with a whoosh of basil and mint (perfectly enlivening for the senses) tethered by the woodsiness of cedar and cypress (representing the rugged landscape of the Traitors castle). Fir balsam runs like a thread throughout, for a tailored creation that intelligently marries swagger and style to a wilder terroir.
No spoiler, as she reveals this from the get-go, but Celia says that she has ‘a naughty streak that I find hard to suppress’; so it’s possibly a match made in heaven for her to wear this particular perfume. Radiating ‘luminous energy and timeless elegance’, white pear and wisps of saffron open to a creamy gardenia and jasmine heart, encircled by swags of wild honeysuckle. Warm Ambrox, patchouli and sugared moss linger, making a sensual, woody fusion. Passionate yet refined, classic yet contemporary, just like Celia’s own character, it empowers and envelops, leaving a so-wearable sophisticated trail. Blooming iconic.
Paying tribute to transformation and a clever, quicksilver charm, Magician by ARgENTUM is a fragrant sleight-of-hand fitting Nick Mohammed’s ingenious wit (and his magician’s skills). A conjuring of orange flower and black pepper casts the first spell: brisk, surprising, and effervescent. Chilli pepper and clove bud follow with theatrical energy and pace, swirling through secret corridors. The base, drily resonant Atlas cedar, warm labdanum, benzoin and myrrh, evokes magical rituals and smoke trails. Magician is the scent Nick should wear to waft wonderment wherever he goes.
Capturing the verdant soul of her homeland, this scent evokes Charlotte Church’s lyricism, her voice as fluid as the rivers this is inspired by, her rebellious spirit rooted in the wild, rolling hills. Fresh green notes and water mingle with narcissus and petitgrain, reminiscent of dew-drenched meadows. Vetiver and woods offer grounding, something Charlotte will certainly need in her time cloistered at the castle. This is the fragrance for a woman who’s at home beneath clear skies, in chorus with song and soil, a sense of freedom perfectly balanced with deep-rootedness in the dry down.
The lush curtains are about to fall for the last time at Downton Abbey, the cinematic Downton Abbey: TheGrand Finale glimmering on U.K. screens from 12th September – so we’re scent-matching the glamorous scenes for you!
There’s scarcely a soul who hasn’t, at least once, longed to be swept up in the grand drama – to join Lady Mary on the marble staircase, to eavesdrop in the drawing room’s glowing hush, to slip unseen through the warren of bustling corridors below stairs. And so we decided to once again turn a cultural entertainment moment into an opportunity to olfactively infuse the experience – this time by revisiting some classic scents to set the scenes. [You can read MANY more of these fragrance matching blog features here, or by searching ‘scent matching‘, by the way]. But why this time are we turning our gaze to Downton?
Well, this final glimpse of the Crawleys’ turbulent, glamorous lives is suffused with the ache of farewell. But for those who wish (desperately!) to linger in the world of Downton – or to relive every gilded triumph and quiet heartbreak by rewatching from the first episode – vintage fragrances remain our most powerful time machine. Even just thinking of the fragrances while watching the trailer (above), you’ll find yourself transported more fully into the feeling of it all – and isn’t that one of the most magical abilities our sense of smell has?
So then, here are five glorious scents, redolent of the era, all mercifully still available to this day, to help you lose yourself in Downton’s embrace – and to imagine: who, or where, might you be within the Downton universe…
Guerlain Mitsouko Eau de Parfum carries the air of storm-soaked orchards clinging to late summer fruit, velvet shadows deepening in the evening. Wear Mitsouko for the scenes that demand a heart that dares – perhaps a clandestine rendezvous on a moonlit terrace, or as Lady Mary, porcelain composure veiling inner turmoil, glides through a grand ballroom. Its mossy, peach-laced chypre is a story in itself, sophisticated and a touch mysterious, a whiff of secrets best kept.
Chanel No5 is an all-time icon swathed in powder, aldehydes, and the ghostly petals of May rose. It is the scent of crisp, elegant linen and polished marble beneath sparkling glass, the drawing room shimmering with sunlight and unresolved drama. Slip into No5 for moments of morning tea, for the clink of porcelain and the unfurling of letters – or as Lady Edith pens her future by window light. This floral classic is a Downton daydream, bottled.
Houbigant Quelques Fleurs L’Original is a breathless swirl of cut blooms gathered into the arms after a moonlit supper, opulent yet never brash. Imagine the fragrance trailing behind as one twirls across the marbled floor or as the camera finds the afterglow of a flirtatious conversation on a garden bench. This multi-floral bouquet, first created in 1912, still conjures the grand occasion.
Floris No. 89‘s a true British classic from a house founded in 1730, evokes leather-bound ledgers in a noble’s study, crisp citrus zest bracing the old wood panelling as plans are laid and fortunes made (or lost!). This is for Lord Grantham, for the men of Downton, and for anyone dreaming of a vintage car ride down the winding drive, the world rolling quietly by.
Penhaligon’s Bluebell beckons a dewy stroll through ancient woodlands just as bluebells tremble beneath the morning mist, a whispered memory of the Abbey’s sprawling gardens before the day’s dramas unfurl. It’s green, gently floral and utterly English, calling to mind soft footsteps over mossy earth or a secret tryst hidden by spring leaves – as if you’ve slipped away from a party down a wildflower path for a secret tryst.
As the final credits roll, the echoes of these beloved characters will glide on – and perhaps, somewhere in the wings, lies the promise of more stories yet to be told (we hear rumours of a possible prequel. But with these fragrant timeless treasures, the perfume of Downton lingers a little longer, weaving us into its magnificent tapestry each time we indulge in a spritz and slip, ever so gladly, back into that Downton world…
Earlier this month, while indulging the month’s general blog theme of ‘Endeavour’ (and mostly having confined that to sporting and Olympic-themed scents), I took a somewhat unexpected turn to the topic of Scenting the Detectives (‘Endeavour’ being the first name of Inspector Morse, and of the TV show revealing his backstory). There was such a lovely response to that fragrance-matching feature that I’m back with a second case, because there were so many iconic detectives yet to cover!
Why the scent-matching to apparently random topics, you wonder? Basically put, I always think it helps you get a much fuller sense of fragrance’s soul if you can liken it to other things or people you already know (rather than just listing notes). So, grab your magnifying glasses and track down these fragrant characters some time soon: one (or more!) of them may just solve your own case of ‘what fragrance shall I wear next…?
Magnum P.I – Jean Paul GaultierLe Beau Le Parfum Intense
The iconic masculine torso (talking about the bottle, here! Well, mostly) comes to party. There’s always been something delightfully retro-inspired yet modern about Gaultier’s scents, so the wild sensuality of salt-licked ambergris, fizz of ginger and pineapple match the 80s magnetism of Magnum. A former naval officer turned private detective in Hawaii, ripples of woody tonka only add to his never fully-clothed yet cheeky charm.
A career-minded single woman at a time when such things were [ahem, often apparently still ARE] shocking, Cagney had the shorter fuse of the TV duo, and wouldn’t pander to being patronised or told (as she often was) that she ‘didn’t look like a cop.’ Eximus is inspired by the time ‘you went the extra mile and it paid off’, evoking strength of character via subtly sweetened spiced saffron, memorably contrasting pear blossom.
I thought it would be appropriate to choose something from the same fragrance house, yet utterly contrasting in character for Lacey, and while this scent is fluffier around the edges than Cagney’s, it still packs a perfumed punch when needed. The peach-y hug is comforting, gently garlanded with jasmine in the heart, but it’s firmly grounded in warm amber with a long-lasting trail that sticks with you, steadfastly.
Combining Columbo’s twin loves of cigars and chilli, the slowly smouldering cuban tobacco occasionally flares with firey pimento berries; but don’t expect the full story to be revealed at first sniff. This scent’s in it for the long game, like the lovable detective – shuffling measuredly back and forth from mellow patchouli to the surprising freshness of pine needles and sage leaves. You’ll definitely be back for ‘just one more…’ bottle.
It had to be something classical but winsomely dapper for Wimsey. If you’re asking “who?”, you must immediately rush out and read the Dorothy L. Sayers series. Mannered, seemingly reserved but with a warm humour and deep seams of passion only his soul-mate, Harriet Vane, can reveal; the refined bitter orange and caviar lemon relax into leather like the first sip of the evening’s first martini (always served dry).
Society is ABUZZ with the welcome return of Bridgerton Season 3, and the mamas of the blushing debutantes (sometimes blushing for very good reason) are all set to find their perfect matches in the ballrooms and palaces (and – ahem – bedrooms) we’ve so missed waltzing through. Yours Truly has been busy making matches, too, as you shall discover, with this Whistle[down]-stop tour through the fragrances some of the main characters should be hastily spritzing if they know what’s good for them (which most of them assuredly do not.)
Before we begin with the olfactory introductions, lets us quickly adjourn to a précis of all the best gossip, via the ever-knowing wonders of the Bridgerton Wiki website. However, gentle readers must BE WARNED for their are potential SPOILERS ahead. So do not come to us with your pearl-clutching chagrin if you have not yet watched the first four episodes on Netflix (with the final four making an appearance on June 13.)
‘Penelope enters Season 3 finally ready to give up her longtime crush on Colin. However, that doesn’t mean she’s done with love. Instead, Penelope has decided it’s time to take a husband — and preferably one who will give her the freedom to continue her double life as Lady Whistledown, far away from the prying eyes of her mother and sisters. Lacking in confidence, Penelope’s attempts on the marriage mart fail spectacularly.
Meanwhile, Colin has returned from his summer travels with a new look and a serious sense of swagger. But he’s disheartened to realise that Penelope, the one person who always appreciated him as he was, is giving him the cold shoulder. Eager to win back her friendship, Colin offers to mentor Penelope in the ways of confidence to help her find a husband this season. But when his lessons start working a little too well, Colin must grapple with whether his feelings for Penelope are truly just friendly. Complicating matters for Penelope is her rift with Eloise, who has found a new friend in a very unlikely place, while Penelope’s growing presence in the ton makes it all the more difficult to keep her Lady Whistledown alter ego a secret.’
WELL! What a to-do. The only thing for it is to reach for a new fragrance (and possibly the smelling salts, given all the drama and passion afoot). Which of these you may also decide to plump for is entirely up to you, of course, but we urge you to try them – and be careful whose hearts you may break along the way…
Yours truly,
Suzy Nightingale
Penelope Featherington + Alexandre J Butterfly
Penelope wishes to be a social butterfly, but she’ll need to come way out of her comfort zone and spread her wings. Will Colin be the man who can help her to fly? There’s certain to be lots of flutterings while wearing this. Butterfly whisks one away in a flurry of florals. Imagine handfuls of tuberose and neroli petals borne aloft on ribbons of pear and pink peppercorns, streaming joyously to a buoyantly soft musky/vanilla base.
Colin Bridgerton + Goldfield & Banks Silky Woods Elixir
There’s something different about Colin – whatever could it be? He’s attracting all sorts of attention these days… Freshly returned from thrilling adventures abroad and having gathered a bronzed glow, this fragrance has heaps of wood and will waft for miles. Despite the steamy scent of the tropics, a definite greenness can still be glimpsed through the smokey, sultry swagger, and there’s comfort to be found in the reassuringly fluffy base.
There’s a sparkle to this scent that just never dulls – perfect, then, to reflect the light that shines from Francesca as she navigates her way through the tumultuous marriage market. Bursting with talent (and only truly at peace when playing the piano that’s her guiding passion), she needs a fragrance that fills a room with its presence but never has to try too hard. Inspired by London’s musically-imbued history of Covent Garden, and the flower market it was famed for; Fanfare is a clarion call of white florals amidst the refreshing brightness of crisp citrus.
Attempting to get used to his new life – with his son having inherited Lady Kent’s entire estate – Will requires a fragrance that’ll make him feel like a king in his own perfumed court. Breezily fresh, this veritably gallops out of the bottle with vibrant grapefruit, bergamot and green mandarin, before an air of supreme sophistication takes over, via grounding vetiver and head-clearing geranium. Vigorously masculine at times, soft as a cashmere caress at others, it’s a scent which perfectly balances brightness with a newly found elegance.
Oh, Eloise has got herself into such a predicament. We suggest she gets herself out of the corner she’s put herself in and goes for a long walk in the meadows surrounding the Bridgerton family home. Wearing this, the distant coolness of tuberose thaws to joyous frangipani and the dawning light of jasmine’s tenderness, while lemon and mandarin cut through any nonsense. Embracing simplicity, as it dries down, the warmth of musk and cedarwood make an appearance – as we hope her treasured friendship with Penelope might yet emerge…
Cat Deeley has been a regular on our television screens over the years – presenting SMTV Live from 1998-2002 (for which she won a BAFTA) and its spin-off chart show CD:UK until 2005; Stars in their Eyes, and the hit U.S. show So You Think You Can Dance? to name but a handful of her achievements.
This week, Cat began presenting THE iconic mainstay of British daytime TV shows – This Morning – with co-host Ben Shepard; but apart from her broadcasting success, we happen to know that Cat is OBSESSED with fragrance (and even has a party trick of scent identification). So, no wonder she teamed up with friend and esteemed makeup artist Amanda Grossman to launch e11even Fragrance Oil!
Meanwhile, let’s delve in to the scent memories and olfactive reveries that mean so much to Cat (and we bet she’ll be cleaving to one of her Five Favourite Smells more than ever, now she’s on This Morning…)
1– ‘The first distinct smell I remember was a drawer in my Grandma’s dresser – it contained all her items in her arsenal, needed for leaving the house. I thought it was the most intriguing, exciting, ‘grown- up’, glamorous Pandora’s box. I used to love going through all her beads and her jewellery, I would adorn myself with every bead and bauble. Yet to learn the classic Coco Chanel art of removal, I would parade in front of the mirror admiring my own maximalist reflection. The dresser smelt of wood, powdery rose from her lipstick, nail varnish, Elnett hairspray and a heady concoction of floral scents from the strings of her beads that were placed around her neck in her signature style.’
2 – ‘I always loved fragrance of any kind, but I never realised it was so important to me till it became my party trick. I could tell what any of my friends or my Mum’s friends were wearing instantly. My sense of smell was incredibly strong and I could instantly tell what fragrance anyone was wearing. It was a ‘useless talent’ that would make my friends laugh.’
3 – ‘I love the smell of Lily Of The Valley. I carried a small bouquet when I got married in Rome, tied with an antique lace handkerchief. The scent is gloriously traditional and each tiny flower so exquisitely beautiful and powerful.’
4 – The first fragrance I was given by my mother was Coco Chanel. I remember feeling grown-up. It was launched in the 80’s and I fell in love with Vanessa Paradis, as the bird in the gilt cage. I loved how the warm, heady fragrance changed on my skin, and I still gravitate to notes of rose, orange blossom, amber and sandalwood today.
5 – ‘I remember saving my pocket money and travelling on the 96 bus to The Body Shop and buying my first bottle of White Musk. It was a rite of passage I revelled in, and probably treated myself to a handful of bath pearls too.’
6 – ‘I wore Paco Rabanne in my early twenties. Then moved on to Clarins Eau Dynamisante for work. It always smells clean and fresh, it could be layered and reapplied. More recently I have been wearing Bais from Dyptique and Rose from Le Labo – Always remaining pretty true to my Coco Chanel roots. But my favourite is of course e11even!’
7 – ‘I love the smell of nighttime in LA…. The stillness and heat, mixed with desert fragrance, jasmine and eucalyptus wood.’
8 – Churches – ‘They are still standing despite the passage of time – They make me feel vaguely reassured, but also a little sad. For happy times gone by and dear friends and family passed, just a little melancholic.’
9 – ‘The scent I love on a man and a woman is e11even. It smells divine on everyone! Our perfume oil somehow managed to be relaxing, grounding, and uplifting. Clean and fresh rose accord, geranium and patchouli with woody undertones, it warms onto the skin and develops into an intoxicating scent that makes the wearer truly memorable.’
10 – ‘Elvis’s neck – I would have definitely been one of those women at the front of the stage in Vegas , waiting impatiently for a kiss or a neck towel!’
11 – ‘Adam Clayton recommended the book Perfume, by Patrick Suskind. He always has the best book recs …. It’s a dark adult fairytale set in Paris, in the 18th century. It’s dark and obsessive, but beautifully illustrates the power of scent and its intoxications in every form.’
Five Favourite Smells:
My Boys – ‘In the morning, when they are still warm from sleep, pleasantly dozy and I can kiss them all over and devour their sweet smell.’
Coffee – ‘Love the smell, love the taste, can’t do without it. The beginning of a new day. Nothing says ‘good morning’ like the smell of freshly brewed coffee!’
Christmas morning – ‘The mixture of pine, rosemary, turkey cooking in the oven, such delicious scents that conjure up childlike excitement.’
Trudon Candle Spiritus Sancti – ‘We got married in a little church in Rome, called Sant Isidoro, we burned these candles. The scent was a perfect accompaniment to our surroundings. Inspired by church alters, aromatic incense, Lily of the Valley and Labdanum. I find the fragrance uplifting and comforting.’
The Beach – ‘The sea air is so good for the soul!’
Fragrance and music have long been linked, but in this matching series we’re partnering perfumes with Strictly dances, too! Which ones will you most be drawn to, and which would match the mood of this new season’s celebrity couples’ characters…?
The Waltz, Cha-Cha-Cha, Quickstep, Rumba, Tango, Jive, Foxtrot, Paso Doble and Samba were the first dance forms showcased when the programme began in (can you believe it?) 2004. Later, in series 3, the American Smooth and Viennese Waltz were included for the first time, followed by the Salsa and Argentine Tango, which were added as part of the lineup for Series 4, and the Charleston in series 7.
To fully explore the perfumes I’ve paired with each dance, and truly celebrate the high-stepping kick-off of the new Strictly season, I thought it best to split these scent suggestions into two parts; beginning with the original dances and moving onto the later additions as the competition really heats up.
Now, get on your dancing shoes, pop on a pair of leg warmers, limber up, and get ready for the scented spotlight…
Waltz – 4160 Tuesdays Dancing With Strangers
First introduced in the 18th Century, this dance shocked polite society for how close couples’ bodies were pressed. Cult Fragrances author Tessa Williams partnered closely with Sarah McCartney with this twirling-ly provocative perfume. We’re treated to a deliciously fragrant waltz that’s partly formal-feeling, with lipstick-y rose, violet and white florals; part exuberant energy, shot through with solar jasmine and joyous honeysuckle.
A lively, playfully flirtatious dance, this needs a similarly light-hearted fragrance to match its mood. Vibrant, colourful, and yes, flirtatious, here Bulgarian rose essence brings glorious radiance, refreshed by a sun-kissed splash of sparkling mandarin from Italy. French May rose absolute from Grasse – the rarest and most precious – adds sensuality. Notes of red berries, naturally present in some varieties of roses, tinge the vivid bouquet with extra playfulness. A velvety drydown of vanilla and musk sashay the scent to skin-like sensuality.
Fast, powerful, but still full of fun, this dance requires a perfume that can keep up! Rockin Rose really sets the pace with an uplift of mouthwatering juicy pear and melon, immediately followed by a soaring floral heart of narcotic muguet (lily of the valley) and a rose that runs to greet you with an exuberant smile. Even rose naysayers will fall madly for it! Finally, as it warms the scent fades out with a trail of ultra comforting musk and silkily grounding sandalwood for a breath of serenity after all that energy.
Considered the most saucily romantic of all Latin ballroom dances, here’s a scent that equally appeals to bohemian spirits. This tobacco-laden fragrance speaks of long liquid lunches in smoky bars padded with faded leather and panelled in dark wood. Musky Cuban cascarilla oil is pierced by the piquancy of pimento berries and a cool shot of pine needles with herbaceously aromatic sage. The gently smouldering base of patchouli gets comfortable with a boozy cherry-like sweetness of the toasty tonka beans. Hip-swivelling-ly good!
Currently £43.95 for for 100ml eau de parfum sephora.co.uk
Tango – Tom Ford Ébène Fumé
Famous for its trademark sharply accented, staccato moves, this dance is passionate for sure, but it celebrates a love of life, not only romance. Palo Santo infuses this woody-amber incarnation ‘an almost spiritual sensuality that uplifts your mood.’ It smoulders meaningfully alongside dry cade essence, resinous cistus absolute, carnal roses, guaiac and thorny, ebony woods. The trick it carries off? This would be equally at home on the dance floor at a party or in bedroom, afterwards.
Upbeat, lightning-quick and seriously social, this one needs a scent that projects a sparkling freshness yet lasts the whole night long! Dagian is inspired by ‘…the feeling of optimism that breaks at dawn, the exhilarating hope of a fresh start. As the sun rises, a breeze of lime and mint shimmers over notes of orange blossom and rum.’ Energetically fizzing from first spritz, this is one to reach for when you need an immediate WHOOSH! of energy that doesn’t fade (as most citrus-centric fragrances can). Perfect for any weather, too. A must-sniff.
Foxtrot – Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Silk Mood Extrait
Known for its iconic ruse and fall motion, there’s a smoothness to this dance which requires something equally silky as a scent – but a fragrance that appears as seemingly effortless. Well. Does anyone do utterly wearable oudhs for Western sensibilities better than Francis Kurkdjian? Probably not. Here he offers us a masterful paring-down from the original Oud Silk Mood, with an eau de parfum. Can silk get any smoother? Somehow this manages to be airy yet still voluptuous, the Laotian wood woven through with Bulgarian roses, Italian bergamot, Indian papyrus and Moroccan blue chamomile, with a hit of hedoine. Simply heavenly.
Theatrically dramatic, full of angular shapes and fabulously intricate flamenco-style footwork, it’s the fastest of the Latin ballroom dances. For this scent, imagine a deep red rose dressed in a black leather jacket. A classic note but so Intoxicating, spirited, bohemian and alive – this is a fragrance that feels complex and multi-faceted, the sweet honeyed scent of centifolia rose adds depth to lighter, spicy nuances via a sizzle of red peppercorn and warmly tingling saffron. ‘Once smelled forever adored’ they say, and we think you’ll totally agree! Go on, succumb…
A Brazilian dance with its roots firmly in Africa, this is an expressive style where dancers must move hips, feet and arms to the beat – where music seems to course through the entire body. Obviously this beloved Brazilian brand had to be our choice, and we’re plumping for this scent, which they explain the origins of: ‘The atmosphere of Lapa at the beginning of the 20th century was the starting point for this intense creation. Ambrée, striking and extremely elegant, Boemia represents all the sensuality and daring of the most bohemian neighbourhood in Rio de Janeiro. With 92% of ingredients of natural origin, the perfume has a light fresh spicy air over warm and sensual notes, enveloped by an atmosphere of mystery and sophistication.’
£110 for 75ml eau de parfum libertylondon.com (Also available at their new Ham Yard and Regent Street stores)
If you’ve not already binged Emily in Paris Season 3, have you even got a Netflix account? Continuing our series of matching characters in popular series to scents they should wear, of course I had to pick some perfumes for the cast of Emily in Paris!
Okay, perhaps you avoided it thus far and thought it beneath you, somehow? Well cast off your snobbiness, wind back to the first two seasons and give it a go! There’s a lot of talk about scent, for a start, with an ongoing storyline about the creation of a fragrance and (in the third season) a plot involving Emily trying to save a potential disaster for a lavender farm’s luxury perfume. Fun, frivolous and with some absolutely gorgeous Parisian scenery, it’s one to watch when you just need something easy, breezy and beautiful for a change, and while fans await the much-anticipated fourth season of Emily in Paris, here’s some fragrance choices to explore in the meantime…
Emily (played by Lily Collins) – Lancôme La Vie Est Belle
Optimistic, confident (even though her French, fashion sense and romantic decisions are sometimes shocking) Emily’s joie de vivre often gets her in trouble, but her plucky spirit and great ideas save her. She embodies the joy of this free-spirited fragrance by a trio of top-notch noses (Anne Flipo, Dominique Ropion and Olivier Polge), which was reportedly with 5000 trials in the making. Starring a contemporary, silky iris swagged by radiant orange blossom and sparkling jasmine, its fruitiness is woven with praline (to satisfy her sweet tooth). Pretty, perky, with a long-lasting trail, it’s a scent that says ‘I’m here to stay, and you’re going to love me!’
Suave, sarcastic, but with a seemingly good heart, Alfie’s the ambitious banker [NB: not a spelling error] who’s fully London-born and proud of it, with no intention of fitting in to the French way of doing things. Piccadilly was the third fragrance from Richard E Grant’s house, and similarly swaggers with pride. Based on Grant’s own first venture to the big city in 1969, and working with talented perfumer Alienor Massenet, these extraordinary memories are evoked via rich patchouli, Earl Grey tea, ginger and leather swirling against the backdrop of a vibrant city, cool cars, petrol fumes, illicit parties, a buzz of excitement. Thrillingly addictive!
A talented chef conflicted by the ongoing battle between his heart and head (and possibly other parts, too), Gabriel gets away with an awful lot by looking soulfully confused and running his fingers through his hair. While dreaming up new ideas for menu, he should liberally spritz this: a savoury special of juicy green peppers and aromatic, just-chopped herbs with undercurrents of fancy cocktails to follow, late-night lock-ins and snogging the chef (when you really shouldn’t be), this always fun niche house nevertheless serve up seriously great fragrances. It’s the scent of a great night out and, very likely, will scent the morning after the night before.
Camille (Camille Razat) – Histoire de Parfums This is Not a Blue Bottle 1.2
Ah, Camille – the gal pal unfairly turned love rival with secrets of her own to hide. I think her love of art would be intrigued by this contemporary niche French house’s scent inspired by ‘The Treachery of Images’ – a famously surrealist work from the 1920s by Belgian painter René Magritte. It resonates the dualities of sparkling light and fiery emotions, so perfect for Camille. From a bright beginning of ivy leaf with a fizz of pink pepper, the softness of lilac and lily of the valley are interrupted by passionate ylang ylang’s embrace, with the base of sandalwood and vanilla-lapped musk being sexy in a luminously insouciant but now subversively sexy way.
Sylvie (Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu) – Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
Being the boss isn’t always easy, especially when you’re not sure you are the boss anymore, and you’re doubting your romantic entanglements; so I think Sylvie would reach for a classic that reminds her of more carefree times and boosts her confidence. Completely chic but with a bohemian soul, Rive Gauche was launched in 1971 and – shockingly, then – presented in tin casing so a woman on-the-go could throw it in her bag . Timelessly French Chypre in style but with that rebellious Left Bank spirit. Soapy, sparkling aldehydic bubbles burst to clean-cut woodiness with claws out, while the rich oakmoss dry down is an irresistibly seductive purr.
Luc (Bruno Gourey) – Parle Moi de Parfum Woody Perfecto
Always dapper, slightly eccentric, but ever dependable in a crisis – even when everyone seems to desert Emily, Luc is a friend indeed and thus deserves a scent to match his quirky but warm personality. Composed by master perfumer Michel Almairac (who runs the house with his sons), expect mischievous names paired with immaculately blended fragrances that blend great taste with not taking yourself too seriously. This one wafts aromatic notes of coffee and cool, rooty vetiver with undercurrents of naughtiness implied by a smooth infusion of leather. Symbolising freedom, the scent is perfect for offices or star-studded parties alike.
Julien (Samuel Arnold) – Christian Louboutin Loubicrown
Dramatic? As if! Okay, well sometimes he can go a tiny bit over the top in his reactions, but Julien’s tantrums never last that long, and he’s one of those friends you’d definitely want to party with (as long as you weren’t held responsible for their actions). Never exactly averse to a designer name with a bit of boldness and bling, his ever-colourful wardrobe needs a fragrance that’s just as fantastic, and I reckon he’d love the crowned bottle, too. The scent itself is one that beckons the red carpet via oodles of cedar, deliciously resinous patchouli and a tonka bean accord that will draw crowds of admirers for another sniff.
Mindy (Ashley Park) – L’Orchestre Parfum Rose Trombone
Gregarious, loyal and super-talented, Mindy is a fave of Emily in Paris fans – a magnificent singer with a difficult background of a family who definitely don’t approve of her busking career choices. Mindy’s fortunes may be changing, but that means extra complications for her romantic life. This niche French perfume house couldn’t be more perfect – all their fragrances have songs inspired by them, written by world class musicians; this one’s a beautiful raspberry-tinged rose that turns into a smoky smooch of vanilla-laced rum. Think: torrid glances, forbidden kisses and the sultry voice of a chauntress rising above it all, aching with emotion, hushing a crowd.
The BBC’s new Marie Antoinette series is making lovers of historical costume dramas rejoice, and in a continuation of our character and scent-matching sessions, we’re powdering our wigs, unfurling our fans and and wafting forth with the following fragrant suggestions…
‘An innocent teenage queen drawn into a dark, manipulative court of Versailles. Her duty is to bear an heir. Her fate will set a country on fire.’
From the brilliant writer Deborah Davis (who also gave us the award-winning film, The Favourite), this is a drama that’s not afraid to lean into the opulence – so of course it calls for some seriously fabulous olfactory counterparts to the characters. For more information on the show, do read The Guardian’s review in full (which is suitably glowing), and give the trailer a watch before you begin your scent exploration of some of the main characters.
‘…it is sometimes strange, funny, grotesque in places, with a gorgeous if occasionally oppressive score. Historians and purists in France, where the series launched at the end of October, have unsurprisingly called it “obscene” and full of “historical aberrations”, including the supposed rebrand of Marie Antoinette as a feminist icon. But the trend for reappraising historical and maligned female figures with a contemporary viewpoint is unstoppable and, anyway, this is not the first revision of the last queen of France before the revolution.’ – The Guardian
Marie Antoinette (played by Emilia Schüle) – Parfums de Marly Delina
Encased in its sugared-almond pink bottle as it is, the silk tassel befits such a regal scent, as does the beautifully powdery rose within; but this isn’t as ‘girly’ as you’d imagine. Just as Antoinette blooms as her confidence grows, so too does Delina blossom on the skin. As it warms, the powder becomes more bare skin-like, a hint of pink thigh flashed above a white stocking, the sense of feminine power that comes with learning the art of flirtation.
Louis XVI (Louis Cunningham) – Matiere Premiere Falcon Leather
Given his preference for birds of the feathered variety (at first meeting his bride-to-be, anyway) and generally wandering free among the grounds rather than the stilted, terrifying confines of polite society; Louis XVI should plump for this. Smoky as a distant bonfire on the breeze, redolent of the leather gloves falcon trainers use, it’s got hint of that huntin’ ‘n fishin’ outdoors-y attitude but it’s scrubbed up and refined, far sexier than it realises. One to wonder at, then fall for. Hard.
Madame du Barry (Gaia Weiss) – Etat Libre d’Orange Putain des Palaces
Prettily powdered she may be, but this is a fragrance that means business. Evoking passionate encounters and smudged lipstick, beneath the make-up strewn dressing table top notes there’s a writhing of hot bodies entangled in sheets and an evocation of dirty linen very much being aired in the public gaze. Du Barry doesn’t mean to allow her grasp on the throne to be weakened, and if you’re not in her court, you’re done for. Why not simply submit to the sensuality within?
King Louis XV (James Purefoy) – Etat Libre d’Orange Exit the King
Amidst the bitchy court of Versailles, King Louis (‘Papa Roi‘ as Antoinette comes to call him) is a welcome friendly face (though do watch out for his wandering hands). This pleasingly soapy scent is classy all day long, with a hint of traditional Cologne among the French Savon and a dandyish air that isn’t afraid to wear its more feminine side on its frilled white shirt cuff. Luminous musks beam forth from the foam, sunlit jasmine and lily of the valley resting on light woods. Lovely (but dangerous in the wrong hands).
Princesse de Lamballe (Jasmine Backborow) – Lancôme Trésor
Beloved since its launch in 1990, this softly peachy hug swathes its wearer in an embrace of fluffy muskiness, pillowy sandalwood and vanilla encircling the lilac blossoms in the heart. Lamballe was (sometimes) Antoinette’s closest confidant; known for her kindness and likability, she surely deserves to be as treasured as this scent. To be worn when you need to be kind to yourself, perhaps, this perfume should be sought out anew by those who once loved it and discovered afresh for those yet to be blessed.
Quite frankly ‘a bit much’ and just not giving a damn, these mesdames might be the unmarried daughters of the King, but they co-rule the court with iron fists inside their couture gloves. In the BBC series they are magnificently snarky, their plum lipsticks and bruise coloured gowns a fabulous contrast to pastel froth and youthful folly. Deep, bold and unapologetic, the original Poison still swaggers, while the Pure version is more translucent, and though not as powerful can deliver a slap to the unworthy. So: bow down.
£54 for 30ml eau de parfum / £63 for 30ml eau de parfumdior.com
If you’ve had your fill of Christmas TV, have basically completed Netflix, or find yourself desperately flicking through the channels to find something worth watching – we’ve got a fab list of fragrantly-themed things to consider adding to your viewing over this festive period…
Perfume in popular cultureused be represented as something of a frippery, a subject to sneer at, but more recently, this eye-rolling attitude appears to be changing for the better. Certainly it seems to be (albeit slowly) if you cast a glance at some series, films and some of the most-loved television shows we’ve been streaming of late.
We couldn’t help noticing the subject of fragrance – perfumery and bottles as an art form, and our sense of smell in general – is coming up more frequently. It’s the perfect way to fill the weird hinterland between festive or new year celebrations and the return to real life.
Here’s a selection box of fragrant items that are either scent-centric of contain major perfumery mentions which we have spotted, with direct links to click and watch. Ditch the TV guide and follow your noses, this way…!
‘With his incredible talent for discerning scents, Jean-Baptiste Grenouille (Ben Whishaw) is one of 18th-century France’s finest perfumers. He becomes obsessed with capturing an elusive aroma: the scent of young womanhood. His search takes a deadly turn, and when the bodies of 12 young females are found, panic breaks out, with families rushing to lock up their daughters.’
Based on the best-selling, and now infamous, novel by Patrick Süskind, this is one every fragrance-lover should watch. It’s remarkable not only for being filmed at all (many said the book could never be made in to a screen drama), but for changing the way fragrance was talked about in the media. Stunningly shot, utterly gripping, we of course urge you to read the book first, but do then see this and marvel.
If you’ve already seen the film, have a gander at the made for TV drama loosely based on the premise of the novel, but in a modern-day setting: Perfume (series) Netflix.
Simply put, Nose is a feast for the senses, and a much-needed way for us to feed the wanderlust we’re all experiencing. Gorgeous, swooping shots of landscape and sumptuous close-ups of dew-speckled flowers accompany this portrait, that goes beyond the work of Demachy, and invites the viewer to fall as passionately in love with the world of perfumery as he and all the people behind the scenes so obviously are…
Telling the story of a preparatory school student who woefully takes a job as an assistant to an irritable, blind, medically retired Army officer, Frank, (magnificently played by Al Paccino) this is one of those films that helped highlight the importance of our sense of smell. In one memorable scene, Frank approaches the table where a woman sits alone, waiting for date. ‘You know, I detect a fragrance in the air,’ he says, ‘Don’t tell me what it is… Ogleby Sisters Soap?’ So, although not a movie about perfume per se, it’s a fantastic performance, and fun to look out for some well-known fragrance names he also detects along his adventures…
Perfumes (Les Parfums) Amazon Prime: rent for £4.49
We reviewed this charming film in full, here, but basically it’s the story of a reclusive, once-feared French perfumer and her new chauffeur. Though a gentle comedy, Les Parfums takes a serious (and very well presented) look at the life of a perfumer, and now this subtitled film has a wider release with Amazon, we hope many more of you will be able to see it. Certainly it’s a treat for the senses, and sadly such a rarity to see perfumery explored on screen in this manner. We particularly loved the scene in which Guillaume, the chauffeur, is discovering his newly-acquired appreciation for smell – in the supermarket, sniffing various shower gels, under the watchful gaze of a bemused security guard. ‘Something quite mellow…’ he says, as the guard shuffles closer, clearly unused to such behaviour in Aisle 5. Delightful from start to finish.
‘After a perfumer’s death, his daughter works to meet the production deadline for his company’s latest scent, which is complicated by the lack of an elusive ingredient.‘ Now we should really start by saying this a Hallmark movie, and as such has a certain look and feel to it that previous viewers of their oeuvre will recognise. That being said, this is the kind of whimsical film that one can happily curl up on the sofa with while eating your way through an entire tub of ice cream. Just don’t expect Süskind levels of olfactory detail, accept that everyone wears pastel and has perfect hair, and all will be fine.
We must admit to not having watched this one yet, but it certainly sounds like an antidote to excessive Christmas schmaltz, if that’s what you’re looking for. ‘After her mother dies, a chemist begins to have strange visions of a mysterious woman in black applying perfume in a mirror, and of strangers who follow her everywhere.’ That’s the synopsis in brief, but further reviews reveal that it’s a surrealistic film, also described as an ‘incoherent and inconsistent slice of psychological horror.’ Nonetheless, it’s a plot that sounds intriguing enough to capture our interest, and we very much we get to find out what the mysterious woman in black’s perfume actually is!
‘Mary Haines (Norma Shearer) can’t believe her husband’s having an affair with salesgirl Crystal (Joan Crawford). But when Sylvia (Rosalind Russell) and Edith (Phyllis Povah) deliver the gossip firsthand, Mary heads to Reno for a divorce. En route she meets Countess de Lave (Mary Boland) and Miriam (Paulette Goddard), who coincidentally is having an affair with Sylvia’s husband. Once in Reno, the Countess finds another beau, Sylvia shows up for a divorce and Mary plots to win back her man.’
Even though this really only has one perfume-related scene, we’re recommending this one mainly because it’s one of our favourite films EVER. And what a scent scene that is – set in the fragrance department of a classy department store, and featuring magnificently catty lines with Crawford as the predatory perfume counter gal. A stellar cast – made up entirely of women (practically unheard of even today, let alone in the 1930s!) – magnificent costumes and a gasp-inducing sudden switch to full-colour film during the fashion show sequence, make this more than worth your watching (on repeat).
Some years ago, the BBC made a fascinating doccumentary series about the perfume business, taking a deep dive into the creation of a fragrance, the revival of a perfume house (Grossmith) and interviewing perfume personalities such as Roja Dove and perfumers including Guerlain’s Thierry Wasser. Sadly the episiodes are no longer available on the BBC iPlayer website, though they are now available to watch on YouTube: Perfume (BBC Documentary series).
When it originally aired, the first season of Emily in Paris saw equal parts love and hate in the many reviews that followed its release. By season two, more had succumbed, and with a new season now available, whichever camp you fall in, you cannot deny it’s a love-song to Paris. And you know what? In the first season there’s actually not a bad look at the creation and marketing of a perfume, as we follow Emily’s hapless adventures as she’s ‘tasked with bringing an American point of view to a venerable French marketing firm.’ Time to catch-up and binge watch!
YouTube is a treasure trove for archival fragrance adverts and wonderful little gems like this Pathé documentary on how fragrance is made. We might chuckle at the Stiff Upper Lip ‘Received Pronunciation’ of the voiceover, but it makes for a still very interesting look at Grasse, French perfumery and the technical side of perfumery still not often shown in such detail to this day. Click above to watch it now!
Another still on our ‘to watch’ list, this series certainly sounds like it ticks many (perfume) boxes for us… ‘During the Republican era, a family empire famous for making the best fragrances and incense must guard against those who are out to steal their secret recipes. Ning Zhi Yuan is the sweet young master of his family’s fragrance empire. An Le Yan is a determined young woman who is out for revenge against the Ning family. Zhi Yuan falls in love with Le Yan, but she only wants to infiltrate Zhi Yuan’s family to steal a valuable perfume formula. Le Yan’s true heart is drawn toward An Yi Chen, an inspector. But Xiao Hui, the daughter of a Japanese imperialist, is determined to capture Yi Chen’s heart at all costs. Can Zhi Yuan protect his family’s livelihood and his own heart?‘
Something for the little ones – perhaps inspiring a new ‘nose’ in your family? – this cheeky little cartoon follows the story of Mo, who is ‘…upset when Tee accidentally breaks her favourite perfume.’ And indeed she might might be upset! ‘Tee is now determined to cheer her up by making her some new perfume from ingredients found around the house. Lucky Mo!’ Hmm. Well we’re sure that’s all whimsically delightful, but if Tee tried whipping up a batch of vintage Mitsouko from stuff he found around our house, we’re very much afraid he’d be out on his ear (having replaced the bottle and cleaned the carpet, thank you very much!)
Blown Away: Series 2, Episode 6: Scents & Sensibility [Netflix]
In the same sort of stable as successful reality series like Bake Off, Sewing Bee and The Great Pottery Throwdown; ‘Blown Away’ proved a huge hit for Netflix a couple of years ago. The latest season once again showcases the artistry and immense skill in glass blowing, and of course we LOVED the focus on perfume bottles in this episode. We’ll even forgive the much-overused perfume pun title.
Katherine Gray, professor at the California State University and resident evaulator describes the challenge to the contestants, saying that: ‘Over the course of the last 5,000 years, perfume flacons have transformed from really simple containers to elaborate and ornate works of art.‘ In this episode, they must design and hand-blow their own glass bottles, while keeping in mind, as perfume designer and guest judge, Michel Germain says: ‘A successful perfume is more than just the scent. The bottle has to draw people in, spark interest and tell a story.’ And the results? They’ll definitely blow you away…
Antiques Roadshow: Christchurch Mansion 2 [BBC1]
Always a soothing warm bath of a show, our ears pricked up at mention of a special perfume bottle a member of the public wanted one of their resident antique experts, Judith Miller, to take a look at. A mother and daughter duo explain how they came to own this precious fragrant family heirloom. ‘I got it a couple of years ago from my mum and dad for Christmas,’ the daughter begins, recounting the history and how her dad went shopping ‘forty or fifty years ago’ to find the perfect present for his wife, when he came across the exqusite piece and ‘loved it so much that he bought it for my mum.’
Miller reveals the stunning little scent bottle was probably made around 1760 and said it was possibly the work of famous engraver and porcelain decorator James Giles, who was ‘absolutely top of the tree.’ It is always interesting to look at the faces of the people when they’re told how much the piece is worth, and we’re wondering if it crossed the mother’s mind she might like to reclaim the perfume bottle gift she so generously passed on to her daughter… We won’t spoil the show by saying how much it could sell for, here, but suffice to say Father Christmas was VERY generous that year. The daughter, it turns out, has ‘a number of scent bottles’ on display in her home, and this one will be kept in the centre ‘as the pièce de résistance!’
And if you’re after even more fragrance talk filling the airwaves, have a look at some of the Perfume Themed Podcasts we rounded up recently. Perfume in popular culture: a fragrant renaissance, do we dare hope…?
Retro fragrance ads have a certain nostaligic charm – we might remember them from our childhood – or occasionally downright hilarious (let’s just say that some age better than others…)
While some houses or perfumes slip through the mists of time and become names we forget altogether or perhaps spot at vintage fairs, others remain firm favourites and become scents that stood the test of time. Here’s a list of some of our favourites you can sit back and chuckle at if you will, or be propelled back into vivid scent memories via the magic of perfume’s ability to whisk us through time and space.
Prepare yourselves for moustaches, pot plants & lasers: oh my!
#moustachegoals for miles as our hero is seen splashing on Blue Statos Cologne one minute, and hurling himself into a hang-glider the next. We hope he waxed that ‘tache or he could give himself whiplash. And who’d have thought it? It turns out hang-gliding is the perfect sport to take up if you want to make eye-contact with female drivers – not something we’d have thought Health & Safety regs would approve of, but still. She can get a whiff of his Cologne even as he whisks through the air above her car (like a fragrant falcon), and they immediately decide to live together in a glorified wooden shack. We love happy endings.
Spying someone gorgeous at a party, trying to subtly flirt across a crowded room, has always been a situation fraught with danger. But it’s all going so well for this woman – she’s chic, fun and poised with dignity – until she applies Tigress, quick-changes into a catsuit, spends several minutes fighting her way through the potted plants and breathes on her ‘prey’ in a quite unpleasant and off-putting manner. And this is why we should all have that friend who says, ‘Yes, Susan. There is such a thing as “too many cocktails” and you’ve had them. I’m calling us a taxi.’
Shopping for men while picking up their vegetables for the week, two women perform an improptu musical outside a greengrocer’s, discussing what, exactly, constitutes ‘something about an Aqua Velva man.’ I’m not sure we ever quite get to the bottom of it, only that they must be ‘manly’ and ‘last all day’. With packaging that at first glance might be mistaken for men’s hair dye – or a devastatingly attractive fake Moustache In a Box – we can only guess how ‘fresh’ and/or ‘provocative’ the duo of fragrances actually smelled. Or perhaps it’s of secondary importance to the freshness of the veg?
On what looks to be the set of a 1960s Hammer Horror film, and wearing a nightdress that only adds to the impression, we are given life advice by a really quite terrifying woman who declares in a breathy, faintly sinister way, that her men must wear ‘English Leather, or nothing at all.’ We’d be straight on the phone to the police, to be honest, advising them to check under her patio for those who refused either option…
Lasers, leotards, smoke machines… could this be the dawn of the 1980s by any chance? This couldn’t be more thrillingly of its it time (1981 to be precise) if it tried, and we even have SCIENCE (along with some nifty robotic dance moves, which I’m pretty sure we’ll all be breaking out down the club this weekend) to back up their claims of ‘pheremones’ in every bottle of Jovan Andron, that are ‘guaranteed to attract.’ Attract what, we’re not quite sure. Stifled laughter?
In the mood for more retro fragrance vibes? Take a look at our feature in which we invited author Maggie Alderson to browse through the adverts of more recent years and see how men’s fragrance advertising has changed…
