Are your lemon scents languishing on the shelf in wait of summer and sunshine? We urge you to liberate them from seasonal exile and hug them back to your bosom for winter! Because actually, their effervescent sparkle and uplifting aromas can be the perfect perfume to reach for in the colder season…
The citrusy aroma of lemon is so often thought of as the sparkling garnish in perfumery, yet it is far more than a mere squeeze of zest at the top of a composition. Bright, lively and almost effervescent, lemon has an extraordinary ability to make other notes feel as if someone has drawn back a curtain and let the light in. Lemons and flowers, especially, are a perfect marriage in fragrance, just as a twist of lemon in cooking cuts through richness and sharpens flavours; that same clarifying quality helps petals feel fresher, clearer, more radiant on skin. So, while it may be familiar from classic colognes and breezy summer splashes, lemon is quietly working its magic in far more fragrances than you might suspect.
Its story winds back through centuries and across continents, with arguments about whether those first lemons hung from trees in north-east India, Burma or China, long before they travelled with traders and farmers. What is clearer is that Arab growers helped carry this evergreen beauty toward Europe, where it eventually took root and began to flourish, and that later still lemon seeds were transported across the ocean as part of that great wave of botanical migration. Today, lemons are cultivated almost anywhere there is enough sun, their fruit beloved in kitchens and medicine cabinets as much as in perfumers’ laboratories. The oil itself is obtained by cold – pressing the peel, a method that preserves its brightness and captures an aroma uncannily close to sniffing a twist of fresh zest held right beneath your nose.
That’s perhaps why lemon in fragrance feels so instantly recognisable – and so instantly cheering. It brings an almost tactile sparkle, at once refreshing and comforting, like opening a window in a stuffy room or taking the first sip of icy lemonade. In olfactory architecture, lemon is usually a top note, the early firework that flares and then softens, but while its overt juiciness may be fleeting, it changes the entire mood of what follows. Think of it as olfactive sunshine bottled, a golden filter through which woods, florals, spices and musks are gently, beautifully reframed.
Because lemon is so strongly associated with summer days and Mediterranean afternoons, those bottles often get relegated to the back of the shelf once the central heating clicks on and the knitwear emerges. Yet there’s something deliciously counterintuitive about wearing a bracing citrus when the air outside has a nip to it. In the cold, lemon behaves differently on skin; the sparkle feels crisper, more crystalline, as though the zest has been chilled in frost. That brightness can be wonderfully bracing on grey mornings, cutting through fog – both literal and mental – and lending a sense of clarity to the day.
Layered over cashmere, enveloped in a scarf, those same citrus notes that might seem almost too sprightly in high summer become a kind of portable light therapy in winter. The contrast between cold air and warm skin makes lemon’s radiance feel more focused, less diffused, so that each spritz is like stepping briefly into a sunbeam before tucking yourself back into your coat. If your mood is flagging, or your energy feels as colourless as a January sky, reaching for something sharply, joyously lemon – laden can be an instant mood shift. These are fragrances that deserve to be worn, not left languishing until the first daffodils appear.
So, if you have bottles you automatically label as “summer scents”, now is the moment to liberate them from seasonal exile. An extra dose of sunshine is arguably most needed precisely when there is none to be found outside, and a bright, lemon-laced perfume can feel like a brisk walk along a sunlit seafront, minus the sand in your socks.
With that in mind, here’s our edit of gloriously lemon-y favourites that feel made for winter wearing. Think of them as your scented daylight savings: a way to borrow back a little radiance, one spritz at a time…
Farina 1709 Eau de Cologne
Lemon shines in its most iconic role, twirling at the heart of a true Cologne classic that feels as though it has been freshly poured from a Venetian glass cruet in some light-drenched apothecary. Zesty lemon and kindred citruses fizz across the skin in airy waves, so translucent they are almost gauzy, before soft herbal and floral nuances and a delicately musky, woody undertone begin to glow through. In winter, that bracing opening feels like splashing your face with chilled water before stepping into the day, the tart peel note slicing cleanly through indoor fug and radiating a subtle, well – groomed freshness from beneath scarf and sweater.
Here, lemon is not a shy squeeze at the rim of the glass but a gleaming arc of brightness that slices through a richer, more opulent composition, lifting the blend with forked – lightning flashes of citrus. A vivid burst of lemon and other sunlit fruits and spices lights up the opening, gilding aromatics and florals before deeper, leathery, resinous and woody notes gather like shadows at the edge of the frame. That interplay makes it an especially beguiling winter wear; the lemon keeps the structure feeling airier than its warmth might suggest, so that the fragrance moves around you like a heated halo, the zest sparkling above a luxuriously smouldering base.
This feels like a quietly luminous second skin, built around that connection between citrus brightness and tender green. Fresh circles of lemon rise first, airy and almost dewy, before dissolving into a gorgeously verdant bouquet where star anise, aromatic clary sage and wild daffodil weave together with a soft, salty – sweet breath of mimosa and powdery cassia. In winter, the lemon’s radiance slices through the chill with a gentle clarity, while the rich base of patchouli and cedarwood hums close to the body, giving the scent a mossy, cocooning depth that makes it feel like walking through a frost – tipped garden in perfect, contemplative calm.
Opening with a truly generous squeeze of lemon, the zest tumbling over bergamot in a cascade of glinting droplets that instantly feels like standing beneath a skylight flooded with sun. As the fragrance settles, rose and a creamy scattering of nutmeg unfurl, warmed by vetiver, guaiac and other smooth woods and amber beneath, so that the initial brightness deepens into something plush and cocooning. Worn in winter, that big lemon opening is joyously almost too much in the best way, a dazzling contrast to leaden skies before it relaxes into a sophisticated glow around you, the zest still shimmering at the edges of a soft, spicy, woody warmth.
Pairing lemon with a juicy bite of apple in the top, giving the citrus an almost crystalline crunch, think: frost-dusted fruit in a chilled bowl. That vivid opening quickly drifts into aromatic facets and a gentle floral heart of lily of the valley, before cedarwood and musk wrap everything in a serene, polished softness that feels quietly regal rather than showy. In the colder months, the lemon here behaves like a streak of light across satin, illuminating the composition just enough to keep it feeling airy while the musky woods purr closer to the skin; it is the kind of understated radiance that works beautifully under a cashmere coat, offering a private flicker of brightness you can carry with you all day.
Harvest time gives rise to some beautiful – bountiful – notes in perfumery, and this month we pay homage to some of autumn’s fragrant treasures, bottled.
There’s something about the mellow shift into autumn that feels woven into the very air we breathe. Fields once vibrant with green now blaze with gold, the soft rustle of ripened crops signalling the turning of the year. Grain and cereal notes in perfumery speak to this moment with such a scented intimacy.
Wheat can suggest the comforting hush of flour-dusted hands and warm bread, while barley recalls sheaves gathered beneath amber skies. Through these tactile, nostalgia-infused accords, fragrance has the ability to capture the textures of harvest, steeped in golden light and the gentle abundance of the season. Let’s embrace them…
Jorum Healing Berry
Inspired by the Valley of Strathmore, we’re greeted with a cornucopia of berry notes, bringing to mind the last blackberries, brambles now bejewelled by dewdrops glittering on spiderwebs. Dark purple/black sloes bring extra piquancy, as spices are crushed into tannin-sweet juices of tayberries and loganberries – a complex tapestry of aromas, weaving together the herbaceous notes of artemisia and wild mint with the woodsy delicacy of violet leaf. As it settles, the earthy warmth of raspberry leaf and orris butter emerge, with the entire composition grounded by a unique cereal accord. Picture golden autumnal sunshine illuminating stores of wheat, corn, barley and rye. Dry, toasty, slightly roasted, endlessly comforting.
Dark geology underpins this fragrance, echoing the ancient metamorphic stone that shapes Scotland’s rugged land. Black pepper sparks against the smoke of tobacco, before yielding to a mineralic heart threaded with incense, and the deep red shadow of dried rose petals. Yet it is the Islay malt that defines this scent: malted barley steeped in sea‑spray air, touched with peat smoke, iodine and a subtle citrus shimmer, mellowed by vanilla sweetness. As it settles, amber resin and leather glow like embers, rich and smouldering.
Suitably blazing with the creamy warmth of pistachio liquor, we simmer into a heart of chestnut, vanilla and sandalwood: the nuttiness smooth, roasted, and ridiculously addictive. What really sets this apart is the wheat bran absolute, which brings an intriguingly toasty edge, the finish smoky and lingering. Daring and seductive, yet comforting and fun, this scent captures contrasts: a golden hour drink on a Parisian rooftop bar at sunset; a leather-jacket-ed moped ride past fields of freshly threshed wheat. It’s an Old Master print of bucolic scenery overlayed with mischievously modern graffiti.
Crimson poppies ripple through England’s fields, their satin petals a flash of red against tawny autumn grasses. Blackcurrants spill their juicy tang, softened by the powdery brush of rose and violet, drifting as petals on the breeze. Harvest comes alive here: sheaves of golden barley tied with rough twine, barleybran scattering to welcoming earthiness beneath warm hands. Blossoms and grain entwine, the scent deeply textured with toasty husks, sun‑warmed straw and the tender, lightly gilded hush of autumn’s abundance.
Soft as chaff drifting from the threshing floor, Bois Farine wraps us in the tender hush of early autumn. Wheat is the thread running through, evoking flour-dusted hands and the nutty warmth of freshly ground grain. Iris lends its powdery sheen, a silken light across woods of cedar, gaiac and sandalwood, pared back in Ellena’s unmistakable restraint. Gentle and cocooning, this is harvest made perfume: golden fields distilled into a quietly resonant comfort, intimate as bread broken at dawn, mellow light stroking floury fingerprints on a timeworn wooden table.
This autumn, you may notice plum has emerged as one of the most seductive shades of the season – a colour that feels both sumptuous and comforting. Rich with depth, plum has always carried with it a sense of quiet drama, a touch of decadent mystery. In fashion this autumn, it slips between velvet and silk, lipstick and lacquer, embodying a mood that is at once opulent and understated.
Just as colour can carry texture, so too can fragrance. Plum in perfumery is never merely fruity – it’s plush, velvety, and enveloping, often conjuring the sensation of fabric against skin. It can feel juicy and mouthwatering on the one hand, or shadowy and cocooning on the other, and it is this duality that makes it fascinating. Worn as a scent, as on the fashion catwalk or in now-cosier interior furnishings, plum invites us into autumn’s embrace with a richness that lingers, like dusk gently gathering around you.
While plum scents are what we’re plumping for right now, did you know that creating fruity notes in perfumery is a far more intricate process than it might first appear? Fruit notes are typically recreated synthetically rather than extracted directly from the fruit. This is because the natural extraction process for fruit essences is often challenging due to their high water content and the complexities of their aromatic compounds. Synthetic molecules are cleverly used alongside naturals to mimic the desired scent profiles of these fruits, while some houses may use Head Space technology to capture the scent of the air around the naturally growing fruit, to evoke climate and place as well as it’s smell.
Well luckily, the clever noses who created our curated selection, below, know exactly how to best evoke the complex scent of plum. And so, if perhaps you are casting aside the more summery scents, finally, and looking for a transitional note to welcome the season (without feeling too wintery and swaddling just yet); well then, plum may be the note to seek. Here we array a bounty of perfect plum perfumes just ripe for the picking…
Soki London Artemis
This enchanting exploration of a moonlit woodland opens with luscious plum, a juicy sweetness evoking ripe fruit kissed by a cool evening dew. The heart reveals delicate osmanthus flower, that apricot-leather-y note settling as warm sandalwood and cedar emerge. Inspired by ancient trees and magic, this plum will have you hooked.
£75 for 50ml eau de parfum shop.sokilondon.com
Glossier You Rêve
While still designed to adapt to the wearer’s natural skin-scent – the thumbprint on the bottle is a clue to that – Glossier Rêve most definitely has a gourmand sweetness, leading us into temptation with its notes of buttercream, plumptious plum butter and toasted almond, with white sandalwood, iris and an Ambroxan va-va-voom smooch.
Inspired by a perfectly composed photograph, vibrant mandarin and lychee are reminiscent of an initial bright flash. but Its heart of powdery rose and plum form a central soft focus that pulls the perfume together. Suede adds texture, spices of clove and pink pepper base provide a sharp contrast, casting deeper shadows as the plum still swirls.
Here, we are invited to wrap ourselves in suede and cashmere, the ripe plum soon to be enfolded in a soft velvety swathe of bohemian lushness via heliotrope with iris and osmanthus – all snuggled up on a dark chocolate-y patchouli base. And that extraordinary coloured juice! In the frosted bottle, it looks (and wears) otherworldly.
Berries, yes – bursting from first bite with delicious, sticky cassis. But it’s the plum that grounds in a more velvety opulence. From the piquant to the playfully flirtatious, as it warms we find a passionate floral heart of delicate rose and heady white flowers. smoothed and sensorially heightened by creamy vanilla, rich patchouli and more-ish musk.
Spring is a time of renewal, of fresh beginnings and blossoming possibilities. But not all floral fragrances are created equal, and some take us on journeys far beyond the expected garden path. Here are five extraordinary scents that reimagine what a spring floral can be, each one challenging our perceptions and delighting our senses in the most unexpected ways…
4160 Tuesdays Tokyo Spring Blossom
Imagine standing in a parallel universe where cherry blossoms whisper secrets carried on ethereal winds. Tokyo Spring Blossom exists in this liminal space, neither here nor there, but somehow everywhere at once. It begins with a cascade of citrus notes dancing like sunlight through branches, before revealing its true character: a powdery violet and rose heart that feels both nostalgic and utterly contemporary. As time passes, the fragrance transforms into something altogether more mysterious – a smooth, resinous embrace of tolu, opoponax and benzoin that grounds the floral lightness with earthy wisdom. This is more than just a delightfully unique spring floral scent, it’s a philosophical question bottled – a scent that demands contemplation as it shifts between familiarity and strangeness, between the natural world and artistic interpretation. Sarah McCartney’s creation exists in that magical space where chemistry becomes poetry, where synthetic notes paradoxically create something that feels more authentic than nature itself.
The bottle alone – soft pink, sensually curved – hints at the transformation within. Lifeboost Love reimagines the spring floral as a self-care ritual, a daily affirmation bottled in liquid form. The initial encounter brings a burst of crimson berries and cherries, their juices running wild amongst torn green leaves: vibrant, alive, and utterly mouthwatering. This fruity overture gradually melts into a heart that pulses with deep emotion – velvety rose petals unfurl alongside heady tuberose and jasmine, their white petals steaming with intensity. What elevates this beyond a simple floral is the creamy almond oil that weaves throughout, transforming the composition into something akin to a fragrant elixir brewed by a modern alchemist. The result is not merely full of the romance of spring but soul-elevating – a scent that celebrates love in all its forms, beginning with the most important relationship of all: the one we have with ourselves.
Bukhara doesn’t simply evoke spring flowers – it transports you along the ancient Silk Road, where cultures and scents intermingled in a grand olfactory exchange. The journey begins with succulent peach and blackcurrant, their sweet juiciness creating a mirage-like oasis in the desert of everyday life. As you travel deeper into the fragrance, a triumvirate of white flowers emerges – tuberose, jasmine, and orange blossom—their voices harmonising in perfect pitch, carried on warm, arid winds that speak of distant lands and exotic promises. The dry-down reveals the true treasure at the end of this aromatic expedition: sumptuous woods and vanilla create a foundation of quiet luxury, while a whisper of oudh adds an element of mystery that lingers like a half-remembered dream. This is no ordinary floral—it’s an olfactory tapestry woven with threads of history, geography and imagination.
The Brazilian rainforest meets classical perfumery in this exuberant creation from Givaudan perfumer Leandro Petit. Flora Magnifica pulses with the vibrant energy of South American biodiversity, reimagining spring flowers through a tropical lens. Traditional floral notes—rose, magnolia, and jasmine—are transformed by their proximity to exotic coconut blossom, creating an unexpected alliance that feels both familiar and thrillingly new. Juicy nectarine adds a succulent dimension, its sweetness tempered by the sophisticated embrace of musk and creamy sandalwood. The result is a fragrance that seems to shimmer with sunlight filtered through dense jungle canopy – at once verdant and bright, soft and assertive. Like the samba that inspired it, Flora Magnifica moves with a rhythm all its own, bringing the carnival spirit to the often-predictable world of floral fragrances.
Who better to inspire a subversive take on spring florals than literature’s most famous dandy? Floris Wilde pays homage to Oscar Wilde’s legendary wit and style with a composition that defies convention at every turn. The opening salvo of citrus blossom and bergamot feels deceptively traditional—a gentleman’s cologne from a bygone era… but this is merely setting the stage for what follows. The heart reveals the fragrance’s true character: a specially created green carnation accord (Wilde’s signature buttonhole flower) intertwined with spicy ginger and white jasmine. This unexpected combination struts and preens with all the confidence of its namesake, challenging preconceptions about what a floral scent can be. As it settles, notes of sandalwood, benzoin and olibanum create a sophisticated foundation worthy of Wilde himself—intellectual, complex, and utterly compelling. This is not a fragrance for wallflowers, but rather for those who, like Wilde, understand that being natural is simply not dramatic enough.
As the leaves turn golden and the air becomes crisp, autumn (or ‘fall’ for our American fragrance friends) invites us to embrace the comforting scents that reflect the beauty of the season. There’s something magical about this time of year; the rich aromas of fallen leaves, spiced beverages, and warm fires evoke feelings of nostalgia and warmth…
In the world of fragrance, autumn offers a unique palette of scents that perfectly complement the colder months, allowing us to wrap ourselves in olfactory comfort as we transition from summer’s brightness to winter’s chill.In this blog post, we celebrate a selection of exquisite fragrances that embody the essence of autumn.
From deep, earthy notes that remind us of forest walks to warm, enveloping scents that evoke cosy evenings indoors, these perfumes are designed to enhance your seasonal experience. We’ll explore captivating options like Malin & Goetz’s Leather perfume oil, which nourishes the skin while providing a comforting aroma, and Ojar’s Wood Whisper, a sophisticated blend that captures the spirit of autumn in every spritz. Whether you’re an autumn lover or simply seeking a new signature scent for the colder months, join us as we delve into fragrances that will elevate your seasonal wardrobe.
Wales Perfumery FOREST
Forest by Wales Perfumery encapsulates the essence of the Welsh woodlands, offering a deep and earthy aroma that resonates with the rich biodiversity of the region in ‘Fall’. This fragrance is a tribute to the expansive network of forests that stretch across Wales, where tree canopies create a verdant tapestry over fields, mountains, and valleys.As autumn descends, Forest becomes particularly enchanting. It opens with the invigorating freshness of moss-covered oak trees, evoking the crisp air and damp earth typical of this season. The heart reveals a complex interplay of notes: the bright juiciness of apple harmonises beautifully with the warm spices and saffron, while fir needle adds a refreshing green touch. The base is a luxurious blend of sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, and patchouli, grounding the fragrance in a rich, woody depth that lingers on the skin. Perfect for this time of year, Forest invites you to take a sensory stroll through the enchanting landscapes of Wales.
A serene olfactory journey through Britain’s lush natural landscape, capturing the essence of the Norfolk Broads. This woody fragrance opens with a crisp burst of bergamot, complemented by the aromatic freshness of rosemary, evoking the invigorating air of the countryside. At its heart lies soothing chamomile, locally grown in Norfolk, imparting a sense of calm and contentment. This central note is beautifully interwoven with the warm, spicy tones of rosewood and the delicate, grassy nuances of green tea, creating a harmonious blend that transports the wearer to a tranquil meadow. The base notes provide a grounding foundation, with tonka bean adding subtle sweetness, vetivert contributing earthy depth, and white musks lending a clean, airy quality. Together, these elements create a lasting impression of zen-like tranquillity, reminiscent of a peaceful day spent amidst nature—perfect for those seeking solace and serenity in their fragrance.
A remarkable fragrance that lives up to the day-transforming cheeky name, offering a perfect pick-me-up for those less-than-stellar moments. Crafted by the esteemed perfumer Jérôme Epinette, this scent is a masterful blend of invigorating and comforting notes. The opening burst of eucalyptus leaves provides an immediate boost, while the salty ocean air and lavender create a revitalising effect that clears the mind and lifts the spirits. As the fragrance settles, the warmth of tonka bean and sea-soaked woods emerges, enveloping the wearer in a cosy, addictive embrace. This duality makes it an ideal companion for crisp mornings and frosty walks, where its fresh top notes mirror the brisk air, and its comforting base provides a sense of warmth against the chill. The longevity is impressive, with the scent evolving beautifully throughout the day, making it a versatile choice for any occasion that calls for a mood boost.
Paying perfumed homage to the centuries-old tradition of fragrancing artisanal leather goods. This modern interpretation masterfully blends rawness and refinement, creating a scent that is both immediately recognisable and universally appealing. As the cooler months set in, this perfume oil becomes an essential companion, offering an extra layer of fragrant comfort that’s perfect for keeping close at hand in your bag. The oil format is particularly lovely at this time of year, nourishing the skin while allowing the scent to develop intimately with your body’s warmth. Opening with muted florals that mirror the elegance of smooth leather, the fragrance evolves to reveal rustic wood notes reminiscent of a well-worn vintage find. Its nostalgic quality is enhanced by delicate notes that create a warm, enveloping sensation that only improves with time, shaping itself around the wearer like a second skin.
A sublime fragrance that captures the essence of autumn’s intimate beauty. This enchanting scent unfolds with a delicate whisper of woods, beautifully interwoven with soft plum and rose notes that create a harmonious, elegant composition. As the fragrance develops, it becomes increasingly creamy and sweet, with vanilla adding a warm, comforting dimension that makes it perfect for the colder months.Remarkably versatile, Wood Whisper leans slightly feminine but remains wonderfully unisex, feeling like silk against the skin. Its performance is impressive, lasting a solid 6-8 hours and projecting beautifully at an arm’s length. The fragrance is never overwhelming, instead offering a nuanced, sophisticated experience that evokes the gentle rustling of autumn leaves and the quiet intimacy of woodland walks. For those who love fragrances that whisper rather than shout, Wood Whisper is an absolute revelation.
As we transition from the last days of summer into the early whispers of autumn, our fragrance choices can play a delightful role in embracing this in-between season. The changing temperature and humidity levels can dramatically alter how perfumes interact with our skin, giving even our tried-and-true favourites a fresh character. But WHAT do we feel like wearing when the weather can’t make up its mind…?
How to Bridge the Scented Seasonal Gap…
When selecting a scent for this time of year, look for notes that bridge the gap between summer’s lightness and autumn’s warmth. Woody notes like cedar and sandalwood provide a cosy base without feeling too heavy – we don’t know about you, but we’re not quite ready to swaddled just yet! Spices such as cardamom and ginger add a tingle of warmth while maintaining elements of freshness, and not dominating a fragrance composition. Meanwhile, floral notes like rose and jasmine can still feel appropriate, especially when balanced with layering deeper elements or layered with a woodier / earthier scent you already have in your collection.
Five Perfumes Perfect for Right Now:
Jo Malone London Wood Sage & Sea Salt (£55 for 30ml): This perennial favourite takes on a new dimension in cooler weather, with the sage becoming more pronounced against the salty backdrop.
Diptyque Orphéon(£140 for 75ml): A sophisticated blend of juniper berries, cedar, and tonka bean that evolves beautifully as temperatures fluctuate.
Maison Margiela Jazz Club (£49 for 30ml): Rum and tobacco notes provide warmth, while pink pepper adds a crisp edge suitable for warmer days.
Byredo Mixed Emotions (£127 for 50ml): Black tea and violet leaves create a refreshing opening that settles into a comforting base of birch wood and papyrus.
The Body Shop White Musk (£20 for 30ml): An affordable classic that adapts well to changing weather, with its clean musk becoming more pronounced in cooler temperatures.
Samples and travel sizes are also perfect for this transitional perfumed period. Just as we may have spent many extra minutes each day staring into our wardrobes and pondering how to dress for weather that’s sunny and clammy one minute, then cold, wet, and windy the next; so too can our scent choices be thrown for a spin, leaving us wondering ‘what to wear?!’ Having a good selection of sample sizes and miniatures, however, gives you the opportunity for some to olfactory experimentation with different scents as the weather changes (and without committing to a full bottle!) Plus, they’re ideal for those last-minute weekend getaways or unexpected warm spells.
The Perfume Society’s Seasonal Scents Discovery Boxes are an excellent way to explore new fragrances tailored to the time of year. While the Autumn box is on its way, your Summer box still remains a fantastic option for the coming weeks, especially if you’re planning a late summer holiday (lucky you!)
Remember, fragrance is deeply personal and can react differently on each individual. This betwixt-and-between perfumed period is the BEST time to allow yourself the joy of playing with your perfumes, being braver, exploring and discovering new scent combinations – or new brands / fragrance families to try, each of which will work uniquely for you.
Sarah McCartney, perfumer-founder of 4160 Tuesdays, has featured her scent Tokyo Spring Blossom from the time she launched her perfume house, in 2011. It’s the most beautiful essence of spring, and though it feels so effortless to wear, the story of how Sarah actually captures that blossom-y blooming sensation is quite another matter…
In the spring issue of our Scented Letter magazine – sign up to get your FREE digital copy delivered to your inbox! – Jo Fairley focussed on blossoms in her joy-filled fragrance feature for the season, and Sarah revealed the complications of capturing that airy, cheery, breezy scent in a bottle, explaining: ‘I’ve attempted to capture a few blossoms in my time. The technical way is headspace analysis, capturing the air around the flowers and identifying all the different molecules they emit, then reassembling the aroma from its components. But artisan perfumers like me do it by nose and experiment, so we might arrive at the aroma by a completely different route.’
For Tokyo Spring Blossom, which remains a much-loved fragrance in her line-up, Sarah explains, ‘I wanted a general impression of walking through a park in cherry blossom time, and used a touch of rose geranium with raspberry leaf, violet and balsam for the effect.’ And the intricacies of the perfumer’s art to create these textures, feelings of light and colour, of spaciousness, are not something we might even consider the scientific skills behind (as quite rightly, we’re caught up in the beauty of wearing the scent itself!) However, it’s fascinating to know just how it’s achieved. Says Sarah:
‘Essential oils and absolutes very rarely represent the exact scent which blossom wafts out, when we bury our noses in it. The extraction processes lose volatile molecules along the way, so we add synthetic materials to restore the impression of living flowers. Ironically, when someone comments that a blend smells fresh, light and natural, it’s because I added Hedione – or Methyl dihydrojasmonate, to give it its chemical name.’
‘Tokyo Spring Blossom is one of 4160 Tuesdays’ earliest fragrances, first made in 2011 for a charity fundraising event in a tiny Tokyo cafe. We made it for our friend Urura, whose name means “the breeze through spring blossom”. It is one of those fragrances which is so unusual that people have to spend a while deciding whether they adore it or are afraid of it. It is built around oppoponax, cabrueva and tolu, with soft violetty ionones, with pink peppercorn, rose, tangerine, geranium and grapefruit, with Ambrox and raspberry leaf absolute at the base. Imagine the breeze through spring blossom, but in another universe.’
Tokyo Spring Blossom£65 for 50ml eau de parfumin our shop
Stranger Things has been one of the most successful drama shows of all time, certainly the most talked about and trending on Netflix for many years. And now, the show has proved so popular, it’s been turned into an intriguing new stage show, called Stranger Things: The First Shadow – which seeks to explore the story as a prequel…
‘Brought to life by a multi-award-winning creative team, who take theatrical storytelling and stagecraft to a whole new dimension, this gripping new adventure will take you right back to the beginning of the Stranger Things story – and may hold the key to the end.’
Explaining the way the stage show takes shape, they say: ‘Hawkins, 1959: a regular town with regular worries. Young Jim Hopper’s car won’t start, Bob Newby’s sister won’t take his radio show seriously and Joyce Maldonado just wants to graduate and get the hell out of town. When new student Henry Creel arrives, his family finds that a fresh start isn’t so easy… and the shadows of the past have a very long reach.’ Predicted to be another smash-hit, Stranger Things: The First Shadow tickets are on sale now.
Inspired by classic 1980s teen horror movies such as Nightmare on Elm Street, with elements of The Goonies and the Alien franchise sprinkled around and about (and Upside Down); its mixture of nail-biting drama, truly terrifying moments and superbly nuanced (often laugh out loud funny, amidst the horror) script was part of the recipe for Stranger Things continuing success.
Of course, we when Season Four aired, we couldn’t resist the opportunity for an olfactory pairing, so in celebration of the new stage show – and ahead of the much-anticipated final season of the TV show – let’s settle down for that EPIC, scenting of Stranger Things, where we matched some of our favourite characters to fragrances we felt would most suit (or even help) them through the most recent season’s tumultuous storyline…
Warning: Though we tried to keep this spoiler-free for season 4, there are references made to previous seasons’ storylines, so proceed with caution if you’re a complete Stranger Things newbie who’s only just begun your journey!
Fiercely loyal, hugely resilient, Joyce has had to fight for her children, her independence and even simply to be believed, more times than most could stand. Having already battled supernatural beings, her sheer force of character is called on in far chillier climes this season, and so her scent must radiate the warmth of her soul while serving as a shield against those who seek to harm her (and the loved ones she continues to fight for). Here, juicy ginger and black pepper add to the spicy zing while powdery orris cushions the decadently wormwood-rippled base (perfect for those who’ve fearlessly faced darkness in their lives). Cedar adds a calming note of contemplation while limette thrums with woody oudh and patchouli, but the Calabrian citrus also reminds us of holidays – and gawd knows, Joyce deserves one (with business class plane tickets this time, please, luxury all the way).
Murray Bauman (Brett Gelman) – Hai Karate£9.99 for 100ml Cologne
A former investigative journalist who first appeared in the season 2, Murray goes on to display a range of rather unexpected skills in this season, where he’s paired with Joyce on their own deadly mission. Sarcastic, seemingly shambolic and yet surprisingly heroic in turn, we feel only Murray could pull off this (always very tongue-in-cheek) Cologne. First released in 1967 with the tagline ‘be careful how you use it’, Hai Karate remained a popular choice right through the 1980s, known for their (intentionally?) hilarious (now rather dated) TV ads. But Murray doesn’t care about appearances, and there’s something about the classic, retro barbershop freshness that’s actually rather comforting to smell.
Jim Hopper (David Harbour) – AKRO Smokefrom £70 for 30ml eau de parfum
Now Hopper has been through a lot already, and his troubles only increase this season. Former Hawkins Chief of Police, protective father-figure to El and revered by fans as a supposedly ‘unlikely’ sex symbol for the first seasons, we’re sure he’s swaying those who hadn’t already swooned. ‘Bottled without restraint or moderation, a concentration of excess,’ the AKRO collection are inspired by guilty secrets and addictions – and we certainly can’t get enough of this fragrance, or Hopper, come to that. Given his clever use of fire in one particularly nail-biting scene, and the fact that he really deserves a quick drag (OK, we obviously don’t approve of smoking, but the man needs a cigarette break!) the deliciously resinous drift of tobacco smokiness in this scent would surely appeal…
We know what you’re thinking. You’re assuming this fragrance was just chosen for the name, right? Wrong. Well, OK, partly it was, but mostly we selected this scent for its soothing nature (which El certainly needs this season, more than ever, as she struggles to tap into her true powers while solving the mysteries of her past), and even for the meaning of the number itself. In numerology, so the house tell us, ‘the number 11 represents two pillars, a gateway, representing awareness and consciousness.’ Inspired by ingredients that help balance the soul, the head-clearing woody greeness of geranium boosts strengthening rose, while earthy patchouli and a warm amber provide a comfort blanket of softness. Encouraging the wearer to ‘stop, take a deep breath, stay positive and consciously focus on balancing themselves,’ it also ‘awakens the senses, ignites intuition and makes the wearer truly unforgettable.’ Just like El, herself.
Seen as a ‘nerd’ in the first season, Dustin more than proved the strength of his friendship, even though he regularly feels a bit isolated and left out of some social groupings. Quick-witted and gregarious, he’s often the only one who sees things as they really are, though perhaps we’ll pass over his pet ‘slug’, Dart, in season 2, actually being a juvenile demogorgon. Oops. Never mind, none of us can be perfect, huh? In a somewhat tempestuous long-distance relationship with computer genius Suzie (see below), Dustin is driven by a quest for adventure. Inspired by ‘Demigods, explorers and those that remain unknown,’ this fragrance fizzes with a Champagne-like exuberance then surrounds you in spicy, almost curried cosiness. New heroes are born every day, say the brand, and ‘There is an element, an event, a circumstance, or maybe just a quirk in their personalities that changes them, empowers them, enables them to transcend the ordinary.’ Dustin, you’re our hero!
An aspiring journalist known as a bit of a ‘princess’ in the first season, her main concern, then, was merely trying to divide her time between her boyfriend, Steve, and her best friend, Barbara (oh, poor Barb!) When all hell (literally) broke loose, Nancy stepped up to become an integral member of ‘The Party’ of friends who try to save the world. Nancy’s cleverness at piecing clues together also earned her the nickname of ‘Nancy Drew’, and she’s desperately trying to focus on those clues this season, rather than the continuing confusion of her love life. With her love of books, we think this library-centric scent will appeal to Nancy’s nose for extensive research. It’s all waxed wood and leather-bound tomes with a twist of pepper adding spice to the pencil shavings of cedar, a sweetly dry rustle of vellum adding further intrigue as we finally get to the base of it all.
Known (and lovingly mocked for) his obsessively-tended and oft-touselled head of hair, Steve had a more supporting role as Nancy’s cooler-than-thou boyfriend in the first season, before dropping most of his foolish ways and being propelled to main (mane?) cast status. Forming an unlikely, though charmingly fraternal, sparky friendship with Dustin, their duologues make for many of the season’s funniest moments. He was a bit of an asshole, but he’s fully blossomed, so we think Steve would very much appreciate and now truly desrves the sexy scent of Halfeti that’s been imbued with protective and hair-shining properties in the hair mist. Worn alone in hot weather or layered with the fragrance for an even longer-lasting waft of woody sensuousness, the masucline rose even has smooth leather notes to remind him of his favouite jacket.
Working with Steve at a new job in Hawkins premiere video rental store, her no-bullsh*t approach comes in handy for day-to-day wise-cracking at work, and quickly becomes her scene-stealing modus operandi as the story continues. Robin is funny but seriously intelligent, her quick-thinking and bravado vital to the gang throughout the season, and she provides a balance to the darkest moments. Her sharp contrast to Nancy’s character means their friendship is often spiky, but quite apart from being independently brilliant, she’s also an amazing team player when needs be. With a similarly down-to-earth approach, this travels from the cold of night to day break’s warmth via yuzu citrus, the clarity of cedar and incense on a sea breeze. Providing clarity of mind and feeling spirit-cleansing to wear, it’s the one to turn to when times are hardest.
Lucas Sinclair (Caleb McLaughlin) – BYREDO Mixed Emotions£127 for 50ml eau de parfum
Lucas begins by being torn between two rival sets of friends. A difficult circumstance for any young person, it’s made all the more horrific when lives (and tender feelings) are on the line. Mixed Emotions has been created, so we’re told, ‘to reflect the tumultuous nature of our times’. Yet the fragrance itself seems to offer something of a welcome antidote to that: a beautiful, cool blend of maté tea, sharply sweet blackcurrant, reviving Ceylon black tea, violet leaves, all strongly tethered by papyrus and birch wood. ‘A refreshing reminder that it is OK to not be OK – and that from unsettling experiences, a new reality might emerge,’ conclude BYREDO. Here’s hoping Lucas emerges with a renewed sense of who his truest friends really are, and that it’s alright to be ostracised if those people alienating you are all assholes. When Lucas taps into his emotional depths he’s remarkably resilient, and this scent really encourages the spirit of ‘you do you.’
Having captured the game-playing jealousy, then potential love-interest of fellow arcade game players Dustin and Lucas in season 2, the Californian skateboarding cool reserve of Max could be read as snootiness, but in fact is down to her horrific home life (thanks mainly to step-brother, Billy, and her innate social anxiety). Having become a close friend of Eleven’s, despite their initial shakiness, her on-and-off again relationship with Lucas provides another emotionally-challenging storyline – as though these young people aren’t under enough stress right now. Though she might feel a special connection with another of the scents on this list (we can’t tell you why without spoilering!) we think she’d find solace and extra courage in the universality, yet deeply personal connections of this one. Creamy, cocooning, the softness of ambrette seed, orris and magnilia swirl protectively around you, a second skin that can be layered to magnify another scent or worn alone to ‘create the absolute essence of you.’
Leader of the Stranger Things Hellfire Club, the Dungeon & Dragons and Metal music-obsessed Eddie has become an instant fan favourite – his ‘bad guy’ stereotype soon punctured by his sweetness of character and his obvious (to his friends) sensitive side. Sadly, not everyone sees him this way, and it’s not long before he needs all the help he can get. Apart from the fact this fragrance name sounds like a song from one of his favorite bands, it features a host of potentially spooky notes. The headiness of lily has been associated with spiritualism and the afterlife since Victorian times, here smouldering alongside the billowing yet sheer smokiness of incense and an intensely comforting woody muskiness that seems to offer hope even when everything around you is on fire. Despite the ‘scary’ name, it’s a bit of a pussycat at heart this one, a place of sanctuary amidst charred wooden pews and dusty books, something that brings solace whenever you spray it. So, Eddie’s gonna need backup bottles.
Your friendly local pizza and weed delivery guy, Argyle would doubtless rather be thinking up new toppings while taking another toke, but his hippy-dippy lifestyle comes abruptly to an end when he gets involved in the horrifying Hawkins shenanigans. So, we suggest this bohemian yet beautiful balance of rich, spicy and herbaceous notes. A surprisingly floral heart of muguet and magnolia has the laid-back chill of a lazy afternoon, but the base is what really steals the show: a combination of cedar wood, patchouli and sandalwood comes together to recreate this green, hempy, smoky haze of scent. It’s dark, green, rich and altogether very moreish. As with all cannabis fragrances, this is free of THC (the ingredient that causes a ‘high’) so Argyle isn’t going to be swapping this for his usual herbal preferences… but we suggest he might like to try smelling of something altogether lovelier. The dry down is fantastically earthy with cedarwood, patchouli and sandalwood creating a peaceful vibe we reckon he could probably do with after all the excitement.
With an ultra-dry sense of humour, Suzie is a mathematical computer genius who used her hacking skills to full effect in season 3 (despite having been kind of ghosted by her beloved ‘Dusty Bun’ Dustin: “Okay, let me just be clear on this. I haven’t heard from you in a week, and now you want a mathematical equation so you can… save the world?“) Called on once again for season 4, we feel she’d get on board with this collection by Perfumer Geza Schoen – dedicated to women with extraordinary talents. This first fragrance was inspired and co-created by memory genius Christiane Stenger, a vibrant blend of magnolia bud, citrus and Schinus molle (pink pepper) with luminous florals emboldened by exotic tiara absolute on a strong, woody base. Proudly get your geek on!
Okay, we know Kate isn’t a character in season 4 per se, but as you’ll have doubtlessly seen reported, like, everywhere; Kate’s song Running Up That Hill features prominently – not merely part of the (always excellent) soundtrack, but in the culmination of a particularly important episode that proves something of a breakthrough in the supernatural plot. With her strongly independent and mysterious allure reignited for a new generation, we feel a perfect perfume match for Kate would be this groundbreaking scent, launched in 1971, the world’s first ‘aromatherapy’ fine fragrance; a classic chypre style that’s cool, grounding, rested on seductive, patchouli-rich base that fuses vetiver and amber which steadies us in a frenzied world, and is slightly weird in the best way.
Is your favourite character missing from this list? Well, before you get stroppy, can we just say it is an extensive cast, and we’ve tried to focus on some of the newer characters (or those with especially important story development roles) this season. But look, we know how frustrating it can be, so if you’ve a strong feeling for a particular character – perhaps have already imagined the fragrance you’d pair with them – do let us know! In the meantime, sit back and think how you’d scent your Stranger Things streaming.
Yes, candles for Summer – it’s a vibe! Forget thoughts of only saving scented candles for cosying up in Autumn and Winter (although, the British weather, lately, has reminded us of those seasons). Here’s our round-up of sumptuous candles to bring joy and light into your life for the rest of Summer, even when the weather isn’t playing along…
Conjuring visions of a blissful Summer evening spent in the garden, the heat of the sun dispersing as the sky becomes suffused with melting colours, and the scent of the blooms yields to the cooler night’s air. A heady haze of orange flower, rose and geranium meet fennel-flecked rockrose in this Summer stunner.
For blissed-out moments of perfumed pondering you can do no better than to light this, sit back, relax, and let your thoughts wander where they will. Fragrant meanderings are via head-clearing verbena, calming clary sage and a late Summer’s breeze carrying drifts of bee-buzzed lavender and sun-warmed hay.
Evoking a Summer of exotic climes (or memories of them), all the lush floral scents that infuse the sun-filled streets and gardens of Saigon are packed within. Blooming as it warms, wafts of white petals – jasmine, gardenia and peony – combine to unfold an enchanting aura that is soft yet effortlessly elegant.
A sudden Summer downpour heralds a relief of emotions with that sudden release of freshness, a verdant awakening with wet trees, dripping foliage and the coolness of the air slicing through oppressive humidity. The luxuriant, renewed greenery of basil is garlanded by a gasp of spearmint; richly grounded in tonka.
Reflecting the top, heart and base notes of STORIES Nº.02 original fragrance, this candle trio are fragrant facets – inspired yet not identical, with some creative tweaks. Light one at a time or all at once for a memory-filled barefoot stroll through dewy grass, a drift of pipe smoke, the silvery ripples of a stream.
Repelling mosquitoes in the most deliciously opulent way, this candle will certainly attract welcome Summer visitors. Luminous lemongrass infuses its uplifting, soul-reviving scent into smile-garnering verbena, luscious neroli, and heady orange blossom. A delight at any time of day or night: the scent of Summer.
One of those candles whose scent is such exquisite quality you almost hesitate to light it, worry not: the fragrance will suffuse a room even unlit, and once the wick is alight, the sheer beauty of that LMR-bottled night-blooming jasmine (hand-picked near the Nile Delta) truly shines. Its gorgeousness is unsurpassed.
Like running headlong into a Summer’s meadow, this flower-filled candle is all the exuberance of a Summer fling in scented candle form (though will last far longer than many seasonally-transient relationships). It’s a whole field of blooms, plus snapped stems and crushed leaves adding verdancy. Joyous!
The BBC’s new Marie Antoinette series is making lovers of historical costume dramas rejoice, and in a continuation of our character and scent-matching sessions, we’re powdering our wigs, unfurling our fans and and wafting forth with the following fragrant suggestions…
‘An innocent teenage queen drawn into a dark, manipulative court of Versailles. Her duty is to bear an heir. Her fate will set a country on fire.’
From the brilliant writer Deborah Davis (who also gave us the award-winning film, The Favourite), this is a drama that’s not afraid to lean into the opulence – so of course it calls for some seriously fabulous olfactory counterparts to the characters. For more information on the show, do read The Guardian’s review in full (which is suitably glowing), and give the trailer a watch before you begin your scent exploration of some of the main characters.
‘…it is sometimes strange, funny, grotesque in places, with a gorgeous if occasionally oppressive score. Historians and purists in France, where the series launched at the end of October, have unsurprisingly called it “obscene” and full of “historical aberrations”, including the supposed rebrand of Marie Antoinette as a feminist icon. But the trend for reappraising historical and maligned female figures with a contemporary viewpoint is unstoppable and, anyway, this is not the first revision of the last queen of France before the revolution.’ – The Guardian
Marie Antoinette (played by Emilia Schüle) – Parfums de Marly Delina
Encased in its sugared-almond pink bottle as it is, the silk tassel befits such a regal scent, as does the beautifully powdery rose within; but this isn’t as ‘girly’ as you’d imagine. Just as Antoinette blooms as her confidence grows, so too does Delina blossom on the skin. As it warms, the powder becomes more bare skin-like, a hint of pink thigh flashed above a white stocking, the sense of feminine power that comes with learning the art of flirtation.
Louis XVI (Louis Cunningham) – Matiere Premiere Falcon Leather
Given his preference for birds of the feathered variety (at first meeting his bride-to-be, anyway) and generally wandering free among the grounds rather than the stilted, terrifying confines of polite society; Louis XVI should plump for this. Smoky as a distant bonfire on the breeze, redolent of the leather gloves falcon trainers use, it’s got hint of that huntin’ ‘n fishin’ outdoors-y attitude but it’s scrubbed up and refined, far sexier than it realises. One to wonder at, then fall for. Hard.
Madame du Barry (Gaia Weiss) – Etat Libre d’Orange Putain des Palaces
Prettily powdered she may be, but this is a fragrance that means business. Evoking passionate encounters and smudged lipstick, beneath the make-up strewn dressing table top notes there’s a writhing of hot bodies entangled in sheets and an evocation of dirty linen very much being aired in the public gaze. Du Barry doesn’t mean to allow her grasp on the throne to be weakened, and if you’re not in her court, you’re done for. Why not simply submit to the sensuality within?
King Louis XV (James Purefoy) – Etat Libre d’Orange Exit the King
Amidst the bitchy court of Versailles, King Louis (‘Papa Roi‘ as Antoinette comes to call him) is a welcome friendly face (though do watch out for his wandering hands). This pleasingly soapy scent is classy all day long, with a hint of traditional Cologne among the French Savon and a dandyish air that isn’t afraid to wear its more feminine side on its frilled white shirt cuff. Luminous musks beam forth from the foam, sunlit jasmine and lily of the valley resting on light woods. Lovely (but dangerous in the wrong hands).
Princesse de Lamballe (Jasmine Backborow) – Lancôme Trésor
Beloved since its launch in 1990, this softly peachy hug swathes its wearer in an embrace of fluffy muskiness, pillowy sandalwood and vanilla encircling the lilac blossoms in the heart. Lamballe was (sometimes) Antoinette’s closest confidant; known for her kindness and likability, she surely deserves to be as treasured as this scent. To be worn when you need to be kind to yourself, perhaps, this perfume should be sought out anew by those who once loved it and discovered afresh for those yet to be blessed.
Quite frankly ‘a bit much’ and just not giving a damn, these mesdames might be the unmarried daughters of the King, but they co-rule the court with iron fists inside their couture gloves. In the BBC series they are magnificently snarky, their plum lipsticks and bruise coloured gowns a fabulous contrast to pastel froth and youthful folly. Deep, bold and unapologetic, the original Poison still swaggers, while the Pure version is more translucent, and though not as powerful can deliver a slap to the unworthy. So: bow down.
£54 for 30ml eau de parfum / £63 for 30ml eau de parfumdior.com
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Kate Bush – 
