Tag: scent

INITIO Hedonist Collection

INITIO PARFUMS PRIVÉS have always viewed fragrance as a force capable of transforming emotion and intention. Every INITIO collection embodies an aspect of this philosophy – from The Magnetic Blends that explore raw attraction to The Carnal Blends which seek to ignite passion. But in this week’s blog, we’re focussing on the Hedonist collection, for some scented soul-seeking…

Even the name INITIO chose for the house expresses this olfactive ethos, coming from the Latin for ‘beginning’ or ‘initiation’, and this founding vision remains true: to restore perfume’s ancient power as a conduit of energy, emotion and instinct. Speaking of scent as ‘magic and magnetism’, INITIO’s own intention is reviving perfume’s role as an invisible force that connects mind, body and soul.

The Hedonist Collection, then, brings a sense of self-reflection – you can think of these scents a study in inner alchemy: how fragrance can go far beyond simply smelling nice (something we all obviously want) to being an invisible force that can help calm, elevate and restore the inner self.

At a time when many now naturally turn to fragrance as emotional self-care, The Hedonist Collection feels perfectly attuned to this moment. Crafted as a progressive ‘path to self-accomplishment’, each creation invites you to reset, reconnect and rise. These five perfumed experiences – Rehab, Musk Therapy, Paragon, Power Self and Lift Me Up – act almost as olfactory therapy, guiding wearers towards emotional balance and strength through scent’s profound neurological connection to mood.

So, how do you choose between them? We suggest making some time to explore them all and allowing yourself to contemplate what you are truly from your scent. Whichever you feel naturally most drawn to (and this may differ each day – so do come back and re-try them), whichever goes beyond an initial ‘oh that’s nice…’ to reach deeper, and achieve a response of ‘oh my goodness, I NEED this on my skin!’ That’s the one. You’ll know it when you smell it…

 

REHAB

An exquisite modern fougère composed to soothe and restore equilibrium. Bergamot and lavender open with herbal coolness, while cedarwood and patchouli anchor the composition in serene warmth. Sandalwood and hedione add radiance, allowing musk to melt into skin like silk. The result feels meditative yet exhilarating – a breath of calm within chaos. Designed as an olfactory detox from overstimulation, REHAB evokes a moment of stillness where clarity can resurface.

£275 for 90ml extrait de parfum selfridges.com

MUSK THERAPY

A whisper-soft cocoon of creamy magnolia, milky sandalwood and delicate musks, MUSK THERAPY is perfumed mindfulness in motion. Zesty bergamot and Mandarin illuminate the opening, before blackcurrant and magnolia swell into a softly euphoric heart. White and pink musks linger like warm skin kissed by sunlight. There’s serenity here but also sensuality – a perfume for days when tenderness feels like strength.

£275 for 90ml extrait de parfum selfridges.com

PARAGON

Inspired by spiritual purification, PARAGON pairs white sage and Palo Santo – aromatic woods long used for cleansing rituals – with serene lavender and peppered bergamot. Sandalwood and oud deepen its resonance, creating a scent that hums quietly with power. It feels at once ancient and futuristic, a reminder that purification need not be passive but can radiate strength. An olfactory aura of protection and positivity.

£275 for 90ml extrait de parfum uk.initioparfums.com

POWER SELF

Created using neuroscientific technology, POWER SELF is designed to enhance confidence and emotional resilience through targeted aroma molecules. A crisp, woody-floral blend of pink pepper, magnolia and glowing musks evolves on a base of cedarwood – warm, enveloping, yet charged with vitality. It’s an invisible armour for modern life, radiating calm assurance and quiet determination.

£275 for 90ml extrait de parfum selfridges.com

LIFT ME UP

A luminous embrace of sunshine and softness, LIFT ME UP lives up to its name instantaneously. Sparkling bergamot and ginger give a joyful lift from the first breath, softened by sweet liquorice and golden cedarwood over a smooth trace of oud. This is INITIO’s most overtly radiant emotion enhancer – an energy-reset button bottled. Designed to awaken joy, optimism and a renewed sense of purpose, we’re spraying this to get through the greyer months.

£275 for 90ml extrait de parfum selfridges.com

Together, these five fragrances form a sensorially scented ritual – a way of using fragrance as emotional tuning fork, if you will. We love how the whole Hedonist Collection encourages us to think about reconnection – to the self, to serenity, and to the power perfume has always held to change how we feel…

Perfectly Picked Pear Perfumes…

Pear is a radiant note in modern perfumery, known for its succulent fruitiness and cheerful sweetness. In scents, pear can evoke the dew-spangled, juicy bite of ripe fruit or lend a more translucent, watery green aspect – a delicate alternative to brighter citruses. Its rounded, mellow nature means perfumers often use pear to create a sense of lightness, to harmonise white florals, or to bring an appetising, almost mouthwatering quality to both feminine and unisex compositions.​

Extracting true pear essence is challenging, as the fruit yields little natural aromamaterial, so most pear notes in perfumery are skilfully crafted from both natural distillates and synthetics. Materials such as hexyl acetate and hexenol lend a fresh, juicy, and distinctly green-fruity profile reminiscent of pear. Aldehydes can also imbue fragrances with that shimmering, clean sensation often associated with pear. In a few instances, natural pear aroma may be produced as a by-product of pear juice distillation, carefully concentrated for perfumery use, though by far the most fine fragrances rely on expertly-balanced synthetic accords to ensure stability and vibrancy in a final composition.

With fruit having had a bumper year, and now being the perfect time to harvest ripe pears, we pay perfumed tribute to this note, and suggest you seek out these scents, ripe for the smelling…

 

Jeroboam Kun Amo

Kun Amo opens with a vivid burst of bergamot and mandarin, but it’s the gleaming, juicy pear that brings light and liquidity to the fruity top. Almond, jasmine and raspberry round out the heart, while a base of musks and ambery woods cushions and softens. Here, pear feels plush and nectarous, adding an inviting, gently succulent undercurrent that balances the musky depth and makes the fruity brightness linger just a little longer.​

£100 for 30ml extrait de parfum selfridges.com

Miller Harris Poirier d’un Soir

This fragrance is an ode to golden hour in an English orchard. The pear in Poirier d’un Soir is shrouded in bergamot and marigold, nuanced with rum for a warm, gently glowing opening. As it develops, the pear becomes more honeyed and plush, nestling into peony, Turkish rose, a delicate whisper of spice, and finally, musky birch and cedarwood. The pear note here feels autumnal—crisp at first, then mellow, surrounded by twilight florals and a wisp of smoke.​

£140 for 100ml eau de parfum selfridges.com

BDK Parfums Bouquet De Hongrie

Bouquet De Hongrie is an airy, luminous floral wrapped around a juicy pear note that glows in the opening. Blackcurrant and strawberry add vibrancy alongside the pear, giving the initial impression of fresh-cut fruit. As the florals—particularly Turkish rose and jasmine—emerge, the pear lends dewiness and lift, while a soft musk and cedar base keeps the whole composition transparent, sheer, and romantic.​

£190 for 100ml eau de parfum johnlewis.com

Ormonde Jayne Damask

Ormonde Jayne Damask weaves pear tightly into its tapestry from the very start. Blackcurrant and Italian lemon offer tartness, while the pear rounds those edges, offering a subtle juicy smoothness. Threaded with jasmine, pink pepper, and a gently powdery rose, the overall impression is both modern and classic. Pear in Damask acts as a soft, barely-there green sweetness, supporting the florals and offering a cushion for the musky amber and vetiver beneath.​

£175 for 88ml eau de parfum selfridges.com

Les Eaux Primordiales Couleur Primaire

Couleur Primaire is a study in cleanliness and harmony. Here, aldehydes and pear lead, evoking the sensation of freshly-laundered linen and the dew of an early morning. The pear offers watery, translucent sweetness, almost soapy in purity, and mingles with jasmine, peony and a musky, ambroxan-rich base. The overall effect is of clarity and ease—where pear feels like a breath of gentle, green air, integral to the scent’s tranquil, uplifting comfort.

£160 for 100ml eau de parfum lessenteurs.com

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

New MCM ‘Park Collection’ fragrances – fun & finessed!

Introducing the MCM Park Fragrance Collection – an array of scents inspired by the iconic animal characters of the Munich House. Explore this daring new fragrance collection (created by some of the world’s top perfumers, as you shall discover) and find your fragrant spirit animal…

These perfumes mark a playful new chapter from the Munich-based luxury house, where scent meets signature style in the most endearing way. Known for its iconic bags and accessories that marry German heritage with cutting-edge innovation, MCM now ventures once again into the perfume world, but this time instead of bottles designed to resemble mini versions of their iconic luxury bags (which you know we squealed about when we first saw them!), these new fragrant faces have a delightful twist — bottles crowned with adorable animal icons that perfectly match the brand’s bold and youthful spirit.

 

 

 

 

This new ‘Park’ collection captures the essence of MCM’s aesthetic and ethos: aimed at dreamers, creatives and global nomads who defy boundaries with confidence. The MCM philosophy is firmly rooted in revolutionising classic design with futuristic materials and a fearless attitude, appealing to a new generation that values empowerment and self-expression. Here, the animal characters aren’t only cute companions but symbolic totems embodying the fragrance’s personality, all crafted by some of the industry’s finest perfumers.

Within these sassy yet sophisticated concoctions, expect well-balanced compositions that invite you to discover your own scented spirit animal. So, read our reviews and see which critter calls your name…

 

 

Zen Elephant

Zen Elephant embodies wisdom and serenity, paying homage to the peaceful state of mind that balance can bring. It opens on brisk grapefruit and delicate freesia, lifted by a subtle touch of seaweed that lends an unexpected freshness. The heart blooms with cardamom, magnolia and earthy truffle, while the base lingers with the softness of cedarwood, oakmoss and ambroxan. ‘Inspired by the pursuit of balance, I experimented with ingredients that complemented each other like yin and yang, striving for a harmonious blend of floral and woody elements,’ explains Hamid Merati-Kashani, principal perfumer.

£130 for 100ml eau de parfum theperfumeshop.com

 

 

 

 

Darling Doxie

Representing loyalty and friendship, Darling Doxie embodies warm dependability. The perfume unfolds with pepper, nutmeg and a sunny lemon accord, mellowing into a soothing heart of chamomile, ylang-ylang and styrax. Cedarwood, sandalwood, and vetiver anchor the fragrance with enduring depth. Frank Voelkl, the perfumer behind this devotion, remarks, ‘I intended to craft a fragrance that embodies reliability, serving as a genuine signature — timeless and devoted.’

£130 for 100ml eau de parfum theperfumeshop.com

 

 

 

 

Charming Pup

Charming Pup strikes a poised yet inviting tone with its elegant nature. Citrus notes of bergamot, lemon and orange ripple through the top, giving way to a floral-spiced heart of rose, carrot seed and iris. The base, a seductive blend of cedarwood, tonka bean and vetiver, wraps the scent in smooth confidence. Steve Guo shares his vision: ‘I aimed to encapsulate the subtle texture seen in pearls under sunlight — shimmering delicately without overwhelming, exuding beauty with confidence and charm.’

£127 for 100ml eau de parfum (available at): uk.mcmworldwide.com

 

 

 

 

Daring Dragon

Daring Dragon captures the allure of power and mystery with a confident blend that invites you to embrace the unknown. Its vibrant top notes of bergamot, yuzu and clementine sparkle with energy and sweetness. The heart is a delicate bouquet of almond blossom, lily of the valley and a hint of tea tree, leading into a comforting base of vanilla, cedarwood and sandalwood. Sophie Labbé, the perfumer, says, ‘For the Daring Dragon, enchanted by the mystery and allure of the unknown, I created something unexpected, filled with hidden treasures.’

£130 for 100ml eau de parfum theperfumeshop.com

 

 

 

 

Jolly Rabbit

Personifying playfulness, Jolly Rabbit is an effervescent burst of vitality and joy. The lively citrus combination of orange, lemon and red currant energises the top, while a charming contrast of ginger, neroli and jasmine blooms at the heart. The fragrance settles with creamy ambroxan, guaiac wood and vetiver to round off the exuberance. Alexandra Monet crafted this as ‘a scent brimming with sparkling ingredients, a true celebration of the exuberance, positivity and vitality that life has to offer.’

£130 for 100ml eau de parfum theperfumeshop.com

 

 

 

 

Mighty Bear

Finally, we embrace the Mighty Bear, a fragrance that speaks of strength and resilience. Elemi and bergamot ignite the fragrance, while the unexpected heart of sesame and patchouli adds complexity and warmth. Finally, a creamy base of tonka bean, vanilla and sandalwood lends the scent a comforting, powerful finish. Sophie Labbé reflects, ‘I was motivated to create a fragrance infused with strength using powerful ingredients that tell the tale of inner resilience.’

£130 for 100ml eau de parfum theperfumeshop.com

 

This collection is a vivid reminder that luxury fragrance can be both fun and finessed, marrying the iconic heritage of MCM with seriously accomplished scent-making. Want to discover even more? Do explore the world of MCM, the history of the house and its audacious style further at our dedicated MCM page.

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Exclusive Interview with Paul Guerlain – Valentino: Anatomy of Dreams

This being the fashion focus month around the world, we’re thrilled to present a nose into the Valentino Anatomy of Dreams collection, featuring our Senior Writer Suzy Nightingale’s exclusive interview with perfumer Paul Guerlain, during which she discovered how he translated the heritage and style of Valentino into the sensational Notte D’oro fragrance for this stunning collection…

 

 

Valentino’s Anatomy of Dreams collection is a poetic voyage through the heart of the Maison’s history, the years of creative inspiration and style distilled into scent. Guided by the hedonistic heart of Rome, Anatomy of Dreams is a Haute Couture perfume collection composed of seven distinct narratives – each a bold, imaginative blend; each one crafted by a master perfumer – capturing the Maison’s spirit since their inception in 1959. The collection invites us to wander through a perfumed palazzo, with each scent a room filled with stories, colours and whispers of eras past and present.

 

 

 

 

There are so many stories to uncover, but as I was privileged to gain access to the nose behind it; let us linger on Notte D’oro. As described by Valentino, Notte D’oro conjures a banquet room in a Roman Palazzo, bathed in the dreamy glow of a thousand candles. It is a decadent perfume where the potent elixir of candle wax melds with precious oud, and a glimmering trail of deliciously more-ish almond spins promises of nocturnal indulgence. ‘Notte d’oro shimmers like liquid moonlight, reflecting the symphony of the night,’ they say; further enticing with ‘The intensity of a couture-like amber-y woody oud infused with a generous, deliciously liquor-ous almond.’

The composition weaves sweet orange oil, grapefruit oil and black cherry in the top; jasmine absolute, geranium and rose at the heart; with a base that exudes patchouli, sandalwood and that opulent oudh. It’s utterly enrapturing to wear – but how on earth does one encapsulate the spirit of a fashion house (and all that magnificent heritage) in a perfume bottle? I was lucky enough to be able to ask Paul Guerlain himself.

 

 

 

 

Working with an iconic fashion house such as Valentino, what role do their designs and aesthetic play in your creations? How do you translate a particular style in your compositions?

Paul Guerlain: ‘Our role as perfumers is to capture the spirit and heritage of the house, and balance this with your own convictions and style. So, while you get inspired by the house – which for me Valentino is a mix of heritage, tradition and innovation. With such rich colours and high-quality products – you really need to adapt your creation to match these elements. While it can be a challenge, it’s very interesting to deep dive into the world of one house.’

 

When working with Valentino, do you consider the fabric / materials / colours they use when composing the scents?

‘The colours and the Italian spirit were very important, but it’s also a brand that is very open to the world. It’s what we tried to express in Notte D’oro with very high-end ingredients that strike the balance of tradition and modernity.’

 

When you’re creating a fragrance in a collection, do you prefer for the fragrance to be entirely unique, or does there need to be a link with the other fragrances to create cohesion?

‘It’s dependent on if I’m creating the entire collection. In this case, we were looking after one fragrance, so we created our vision without considering the other fragrances within the collection.  It was interesting to see the interpretations by the other perfumers as you can see their different vision and what creativity can bring.’

 

What was the brief for this collection – did it have a mood board or other prompts? And then, what was your starting point of translating the initial ideas?

‘The brief was quite simple as it was to interpret the identity of the house with this idea of the Roman Palazzo but with a twist. Some briefs are very specific, but it depends on what you want to do with it – you can either be very strict with it or you can interpret it in a completely different way.

The starting point was to create a fragrance using one of the most precious ingredients in the perfumer palette, and make it more accessible, to make it shine and show that it’s not simply an animatic, heavy scent. It can be intense and sensual in another way.

We built the idea around two main ingredients: oudh and almond – it was a strong idea but then we facetted the perfume for over 170 trials, so it took time. The main thing for me is to understand the identity of the house, and the environment that you want to build. For us, we were thinking about the story. We then mix these ideas to find the right balance…’

 

Do you remember the first ever fragrance you purchased for yourself, because you loved it?

‘Actually, I never really had to buy perfumes before but the first one I remember was Dior Homme. I was really in love with it and think it’s just perfectly blended and elegant. It’s super simple, but very complex at the same time.  I think iris is one of the treasures we have in perfumery, and it’s really well balanced so you can really see all the different facets and aspects in the fragrance.’

 

Are there particular ingredients you often find yourself drawn to using again and again?

‘There are some ingredients that I use often but I think you also need to challenge yourself to find new ingredients. If you’re building a collection with only 30 or 40 ingredients, it can limit your creativity. I always try to get out the ingredients I like but find a combination with another ingredient for a new intensity. It’s really key in our line of work to be curious, to find what’s new and behind every door…’

 

 

 

Notte D’oro £105 for 30ml eau de parfum valentino-beauty.co.uk

 

For Valentino and Paul Guerlain alike, it is this restless curiosity and devotion to artistry that ensures each scent in the Anatomy of Dreams collection – and especially the moonlit allure of Notte D’oro – lingers in the memory long after the closing of the famed Palazzo doors. And with these eaux de parfums, we can inhabit this fragrant reverie every single time we select a scent, spritz, and allow ourselves to dream…

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Les Essences de Diptyque – Revealing nature’s hidden jewels

Nature’s secret wonders are fragrant inspirations distilled with Diptyque’s Les Essences collection: five fragrances echoing treasures sometimes hidden, but beautifully revealed within each of these scents. Coral, mother of pearl, bark, water lily, desert rose – each interpreted by master perfumers, every bottle engraved with Nigel Peake’s brush-swept artwork, and the spirit of Diptyque’s Parisian poetic curiosity woven through every shimmering note. Join us as we explore each one…

 

Diptyque says: ‘Diptyque has always drawn inspiration from nature. Nature enchants our gaze. It stirs our curiosity, feeds our creativity.

The Maison’s new collection, Les Essences de Diptyque (The Essences of Diptyque), freely reinterprets the treasures of nature, fluctuating between the realistic and the fantastical. Revealed in all their beauty, these treasures invite us to pause and admire them.

Delicate, dreamlike, the five perfume compositions in this collection are the product of a collaboration between the perfumer’s nose and the hand of an artist. Each creation celebrates one of nature’s treasures – reinventing it in fragrance and exceptional drawings.’

 

 

 

Lazulio

A lapis lazuli dream, Lazulio shimmers with tart rhubarb and a blush of rose, curling like peacock-feathered shadows above balsamic benzoin and root-y vetiver. The composition glints with gemstone clarity, swirling a vivid tale of radiant blue skies and velvet dusk. It wears on the body as a modern poem: unfurling softly, dazzling yet contemplative, both jewel-bright and infinitely deep.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum diptyqueparis.com

 

 

 

Corail Oscuro

Light ripples across the Venetian Lagoon, illuminating coral gardens in fiery vermilion. Corail Oscuro conjures this undersea mystery – crystalline mandarin teasing with a sunlit sparkle, rose bourbon swaying through salty-mineral breezes. Waves of warmth and salinity undulate like Renaissance light: chiaroscuro painted in scent, vivid yet shadowed. The sensation is at once tidal and tender, restless as memory, consumed by beauty.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum libertylondon.com

 

 

 

Lunamaris

Moonbeams dissolve on water, revealing the iridescent secret of mother of pearl: Lunamaris floats atop this radiance, pink pepper and rockrose spinning dreams across the surface, their shimmering brushstrokes mottled by mineral incense. It’s a gentle gleam, subtle yet magnetic, as though the sea itself murmurs in opal silks, delicate and soft. Every spritz is a slow drift through luminous, moonlit reverie.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum libertylondon.com

 

 

 

Bois Corsé

Threads of bark embrace the ancient forest, holding fast to time. Bois Corsé strikes deep – black coffee absolute pulses through woody sandalwood and warm tonka bean, conjuring the rough textures and earthy secrets of bark, mysterious yet comforting. Inhale: sunlight fills the cracks, and every breath feels alive with the pulse of woodland heartwood, sustaining, grounding, endlessly rich.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum libertylondon.com

 

 

 

Lilyphéa

Monet’s water lilies, transposed in scent: Lilyphéa floats above ponds glittering with aquatic green. Cardamom and violet leaf burst with fresh sap, intertwining with vanilla’s gentle ecstasy. Soft petals, silky shadows, nature painted in Impressionist strokes and then dissolved in velvet ripples. The air seems almost blue-green after rain, the melody of quiet ponds lapping in every gentle exhale.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum libertylondon.com

 

 

 

Rose Roche

A crystalline desert, swept by heat and wind. Rose Roche is poetry in mineral form – Sicilian lemon slits the horizon, centifolia rose opens fresh, dewy petals against the mirage, while mineral patchouli anchors drifting sillage like the trace of footsteps across glowing dunes. It’s delicate yet undaunted, both ephemeral and enduring, as if the rose herself had blossomed from stone.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum selfridges.com

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Perfumer Profile: Nathalie Lorson

Nathalie Lorson’s fragrant world begins in the fields of mimosa on the hills of Tanneron, bathed in the honeyed light of Grasse. ‘My first scent memory is the field of mimosa when I was walking with my parents,’ she shares, a beginning that seems to set the tone for a career shaped by nature’s poetry and the meticulous science all true perfumers learn to wield.

Her path was forked-lightning bold – ‘In 1980, very few women entered the perfumery field,’ she remembers, speaking with the quiet steel of a pioneer. The daughter of a Roure chemist, Nathalie found herself drawn instinctively to scent, where ‘smelling, for me, was literally child’s play.’ After passing exams, she entered Roure’s school to immerse herself in the arcane language of molecules, accords and raw materials. For her, mastery flows from constant learning: ‘Designing fragrances is constantly a work in progress. Even today I feel like I am still learning,’ she observes.

Her style, she says, is ‘harmonious and generous…’, evident in the smooth, rounded sensuality knit into her blends. She’s one of modern perfumery’s quiet pulse-points, as vital to its rhythm as rose, vanilla or vetiver are to hers. ‘I like to work musky notes, vetiver and rose – but newness is also important and it is exciting to discover new materials.’

 

 

 

 

Nathalie Lorson’s perfumed portfolio, as myriad and shifting as a kaleidoscope, contains classics and cult favourites – Lalique Amethyst, Encre Noire (‘the beautiful story… was written with the purest vetiver, one of my favourite raw materials’), Flora by Gucci, Bentley for Men, Dita Von Teese EDP and the modern icon YSL Black Opium. Indeed, she is part of the quartet that gave Black Opium its velvet swagger, working for Firmenich, where she is Senior Perfumer.

Recent years have seen her hand in scents The Perfume Society loves to write about: Givenchy Gentleman (the contemporary 2017 version, co-authored with Olivier Cresp), Mugler Angel Nova, Boucheron Patchouli d’Angkor and Boucheron Santal de Kandy, Chopard Magnolia au Vétiver d’Haïti, and the enduring addiction of Le Labo Poivre 23. She seems to delight in the challenge of brand storytelling: ‘Always behind the scenes, I translate the brand history into an olfactory tale… I like to work with many different types of ingredients and explore them beyond their limits.’

Nathalie’s creative fragrant energy hums frenetically – ‘I am currently working on about 10 fragrances at the same time.’ Her travels, especially in Japan, spark inspiration for new olfactive territories, yet she stays grounded in the day-to-day texture of her craft: ‘Discussions with inspiring people are critical – they bring to life the ideas behind the scent.’ In interviews she adds, ‘We find lots of dust, but very few nuggets…’, alluding to the laborious search for newness and excellence each time she starts anew.

 

 

 

 

When Nathalie Lorson reminisces about her favourite smells, they speak to her breadth of memory: ‘Rose, vanilla, the smell of sand, freshly-cut grass and Christmas trees.’ And how incredible to think that her favourite first purchase – the original YSL Opium – set the course for a career mapping the DNA of French luxury. Asked how to fully appreciate fragrance, her advice returns to experience: ‘The best thing is to wear fragrance, to live with it, to smell it, to experience it.’

Pushed to choose the one fragrance she wishes she’d created, Lorson allows herself to pick two. ‘FlowerbyKenzo: a beautiful re-interpretation of a classic floral-powdery theme with a very identifiable trail. And Dior Hypnotic Poison: a product of pure pleasure, sensual, enveloping, very recognisable and with just the kind of “signature” I like.’

Today, pressed between luxury’s demands and niche creativity, Nathalie’s spirit remains keen: ‘Yes, with the arrival of all niche brands… the luxury brands are also asking perfumers to create fragrances with unique “signatures” that are new and different from others – so that’s very stimulating, too.’

Nathalie Lorson is – and ever was – quietly at the heart of things, dreaming ‘of everything that has not yet been discovered…’ For perfume lovers and practitioners, and for we fragrance-lovers alike, her work is a living invitation to scent, skill, and wonder, carried by a nose that grew up among the mimosas and never once switched off. And we thank goodness for that!

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Brunello Cucinelli’s Incanti Poetici – the art of subtle luxury

Entwining fashion and fragrance in the most stylish way, today we are exploring the Brunello Cucinelli Incanti Poetici Collection, and invite you to daydream with every spritz…

Just for a moment, let’s close our eyes and imagine a sunlit afternoon in Solomeo, mist enfolding honeyed-stone archways, whispers of poetry carried skywards on a gentle breeze. Italy’s aesthetic master of quiet luxury, Brunello Cucinelli, distils this subtle magic into the house’s Incanti Poetici scents – a fragrance collection that feels as though it speaks in low, elegant tones, yet lingers in the memory like the closing lines of a favourite verse.

 

To uncork these bottles is to enter a landscape where fabric, fragrance, and poetry intertwine, each accord lingering with the soft opulence and contemporary refinement that so define the house’s pared back fashion – and indeed, their family values.

 

 

 

 

Every flacon arrives gleaming with the clarity of Italian glass, capped and cupped with a pleasingly cool weight in recyclable aluminium, cosseted in a hand-crafted box spun from the paper mills of Solomeo. True to Cucinelli’s ethos, the compositions balance remarkable natural materials with a kind of narrative elegance – a thread of beauty winding from tailored jacket to outstretched wrist, in the softest exhalation of skin and air.

Perfumery’s brightest talents have composed this fragrant anthology, and they chose the perfumers so well to capture the feeling of the fashions, to truly embody their ethos.

 

 

Benoist Lapouza’s Vie Eteree is a bright, breezy day in a bottle: basil and cardamom tumble over Italian bergamot and citron, then tumble again to rest at cedarwood’s reassuring threshold. This is the gentle nudge of dawn, something quietly vital, inviting a moment’s contemplation and possibility.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com

 

 

Soffio Zenit, crafted by Florian Gallo, radiates Mediterranean purity. The milky-green hush of fig is gilded by lavender and rosemary, while labdanum’s leathery glow unfurls through the base like sun shot across ancient stone. There is something weightless yet grounding here – a fresco painted in sunlight and shaded leaves.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com

 

Quentin Bisch’s Sogno Notturno, meanwhile, sways sideways into sandalwood and cumin, edged with osmanthus, as dreamlike as half-remembered stories murmured in the dark. Vetiver sinks in, smokily smooth, a susurrus of comfort and intrigue. It’s the soft hush between wishing and waking, wrapped around the pulse-point like silk.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum brunellocucinelli.com

 

 

Daphné Bugey’s Brezza Gentile opens with the crisp zesty prickle of bitter orange, deepens to earthy patchouli, then warms with a gentle ambrox accord. Inspired by Solomeo’s Garden of Philosophers, this is a gentle breath, a reminder to walk a little slower, listen a little longer, as afternoon stretches lazily into contemplative dusk.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com

 

 

In Ombra Lirica, Alberto Morillas blends ancient woods and volcanic olibanum around oudh’s mysterious richness, never tipping into gloom – instead casting an intricate, lyrical shadow that dances quietly in the background. One for libraries with velvet chairs, for the secret page turned in candlelight.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com

 

 

At last, Jordi Fernandez’s Vento Ardente – rich with warm leather, saffron flickering among amyris, cedar and sandalwood. This is all fire and resonance, yet never ostentatious – as soul-nourishing and reassuring as the perfect jumper slung around suntanned shoulders, as quietly memorable as sun-baked stone cooling at midnight.

£255 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com

Incanti Poetici gathers up the spirit of Brunello Cucinelli: understated yet full of atmosphere, exquisitely textured and always composed with both poise and heart. Each bottle offers not only a distinctive aroma, but an invitation to experience the world with heightened awareness – composed (in every sense), creative, and brilliantly Italian in its pursuit of beauty. For those new to Brunello Cucinelli’s scented world, this is perfumed poetry to be worn – and treasured as it resonates – every single day…

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Fragrances for Downton Abbey’s Final (?) Goodbye…

The lush curtains are about to fall for the last time at Downton Abbey, the cinematic Downton Abbey: The Grand Finale glimmering on U.K. screens from 12th September – so we’re scent-matching the glamorous scenes for you!

There’s scarcely a soul who hasn’t, at least once, longed to be swept up in the grand drama – to join Lady Mary on the marble staircase, to eavesdrop in the drawing room’s glowing hush, to slip unseen through the warren of bustling corridors below stairs. And so we decided to once again turn a cultural entertainment moment into an opportunity to olfactively infuse the experience – this time by revisiting some classic scents to set the scenes. [You can read MANY more of these fragrance matching blog features here, or by searching ‘scent matching‘, by the way]. But why this time are we turning our gaze to Downton?

 

 

Well, this final glimpse of the Crawleys’ turbulent, glamorous lives is suffused with the ache of farewell. But for those who wish (desperately!) to linger in the world of Downton – or to relive every gilded triumph and quiet heartbreak by rewatching from the first episode – vintage fragrances remain our most powerful time machine. Even just thinking of the fragrances while watching the trailer (above), you’ll find yourself transported more fully into the feeling of it all – and isn’t that one of the most magical abilities our sense of smell has?

So then, here are five glorious scents, redolent of the era, all mercifully still available to this day, to help you lose yourself in Downton’s embrace – and to imagine: who, or where, might you be within the Downton universe…

 

 

Guerlain Mitsouko Eau de Parfum carries the air of storm-soaked orchards clinging to late summer fruit, velvet shadows deepening in the evening. Wear Mitsouko for the scenes that demand a heart that dares – perhaps a clandestine rendezvous on a moonlit terrace, or as Lady Mary, porcelain composure veiling inner turmoil, glides through a grand ballroom. Its mossy, peach-laced chypre is a story in itself, sophisticated and a touch mysterious, a whiff of secrets best kept.

£130 for 75ml eau de parfum guerlain.com

 

 

 

 

Chanel No5 is an all-time icon swathed in powder, aldehydes, and the ghostly petals of May rose. It is the scent of crisp, elegant linen and polished marble beneath sparkling glass, the drawing room shimmering with sunlight and unresolved drama. Slip into No5 for moments of morning tea, for the clink of porcelain and the unfurling of letters – or as Lady Edith pens her future by window light. This floral classic is a Downton daydream, bottled.

£78 for 35ml eau de parfum johnlewis.com

 

 

 

Houbigant Quelques Fleurs L’Original is a breathless swirl of cut blooms gathered into the arms after a moonlit supper, opulent yet never brash. Imagine the fragrance trailing behind as one twirls across the marbled floor or as the camera finds the afterglow of a flirtatious conversation on a garden bench. This multi-floral bouquet, first created in 1912, still conjures the grand occasion.

£140 for 100ml eau de parfum lookfantastic.com

 

 

Floris No. 89‘s a true British classic from a house founded in 1730, evokes leather-bound ledgers in a noble’s study, crisp citrus zest bracing the old wood panelling as plans are laid and fortunes made (or lost!). This is for Lord Grantham, for the men of Downton, and for anyone dreaming of a vintage car ride down the winding drive, the world rolling quietly by.

£110 for 100ml eau de toilette selfridges.com

 

 

 

Penhaligon’s Bluebell beckons a dewy stroll through ancient woodlands just as bluebells tremble beneath the morning mist, a whispered memory of the Abbey’s sprawling gardens before the day’s dramas unfurl. It’s green, gently floral and utterly English, calling to mind soft footsteps over mossy earth or a secret tryst hidden by spring leaves – as if you’ve slipped away from a party down a wildflower path for a secret tryst.

£140 for 100ml eau de toilette sephora.co.uk

As the final credits roll, the echoes of these beloved characters will glide on – and perhaps, somewhere in the wings, lies the promise of more stories yet to be told (we hear rumours of a possible prequel. But with these fragrant timeless treasures, the perfume of Downton lingers a little longer, weaving us into its magnificent tapestry each time we indulge in a spritz and slip, ever so gladly, back into that Downton world…

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Wrapped in Brambles – Blackberry Scents to Welcome Autumn’s Arrival

Get ready to feast your senses on a bounty of blackberry scents, because as the exuberance of summer yields to autumn’s golden hush, a shift occurs in the air – a coolness, a softening, a whisper of change that rings with the promise of misty hedgerows and brambly adventures. Let’s explore…

 

Yes, okay, part of us wishes the beautiful summer sunshine could have carried on awhile longer; but there’s also beauty to be found in the days when the earth’s palette deepens, shadows lengthen under coppery light, and nature offers up the succulent yield of late harvest. Plump, wild blackberries, their skins inky and glistening with dew and tinged with the sense of transition.

The poet Sylvia Plath once marvelled at coming across a lane laden with blackberries, sharing that sense of wonderment at seeing them en-masse, and at the world proffering us such jewelled, juicy gifts:

Blackberrying by Sylvia Plath

Nobody in the lane, and nothing, nothing but blackberries,
Blackberries on either side, though on the right mainly,
A blackberry alley, going down in hooks, and a sea
Somewhere at the end of it, heaving. Blackberries
Big as the ball of my thumb, and dumb as eyes
Ebon in the hedges, fat
With blue-red juices. These they squander on my fingers.
I had not asked for such a blood sisterhood; they must love me.
They accommodate themselves to my milk bottle, flattening their sides.

How wonderful, then, to now allow ourselves to revel in fragrances which seize upon this luscious note, bottling late summer’s last hurrah and welcoming the cosy embrace of the colder months ahead. We feel blackberry-centred scents can marry both worlds: they fizz with fun and fruity brightness, yet linger with spice, woods, and warmth, offering a sense of sensory escape and snuggle-worthy hugs with every spritz.

Now then, which of this lusciously juicy crop of blackberry perfumes would you pick first…?

 

 

Shay & Blue Blackberry Woods 100ml

Shay & Blue Blackberry Woods

This is a dusky stroll through an enchanted forest as twilight seeps through the branches. Created by Julie Massé, we’re plunged into the heart of blackberry season, the first cool nip in the air raising goosebumps on your arms, fingers stained purple from the sweet-tart juice of berries picked at their prime. Sparkling zesty orange flutters at the top alongside the signature sleekness of blueberry, painting a scene of sweet anticipation. The fragrance blossoms into a creamy heart of magnolia and orange blossom, their soft florals lending a gentle embrace before being enfolded in the comforting warmth of musk and cashmere wood. You’re left with the sensation of leaves crunching underfoot and the woodsmoke of dusk in the distance – a perfectly woven olfactory scarf for autumn’s arrival.

£65 for 100ml eau de parfum in the Shop

 

 

 

 

Lalique Amethyst

Unfurling like a freshly embroidered berry tapestry, this exuberant ode to hedgerows is groaning with the bounties of blackcurrant, blackberry, mulberry, and a whisper of blueberry for extra piquancy. Nathalie Lorson crafts a vibrant opening – nutmeg’s spicy prickle meets the tangy, jammy explosion of blackberry, underscored by the gentle freshness of blackcurrant. As the fragrance deepens, its heart reveals the silky, powdered blush of peony, a subtle dusting of rose peppered with spice, and the hypnotic warmth of ylang ylang. The base emerges soft and feathery with vanilla and musk, evoking the last rays of late afternoon sun glinting through a many-faceted amethyst gem, glowing with the remembered heat of summer and the anticipation of autumn’s many mysteries.

Currently £44.50 for 100ml eau de parfum superdrug.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jo Malone London Blackberry & Bay

Ah, now this conjures a rush of childhood memories – muddy boots stomping through tangled brambles, cheeks flushed from crisp air, baskets overflowing with glossy fruit. The initial impression is a bold, tart burst – blackberry juice bursting beneath your teeth, blackcurrant and bucco tree essence lending their green snap to a portrait of autumn hedgerows. Bay leaves in the heart – fresh, herbaceous galbanum and leafy verdancy – signal the moment when fruit and foliage are entwined. Anchored by cedarwood’s dry, charismatic depth, the fragrance lingers like the memory of a wild ramble, wrapping your senses with the promise of comfort and exploration.

From £56 for 30ml Cologne jomalone.co.uk

 

 

 

 

Salvatore Ferragamo’s Signorina Misteriosa

Effervescent as the last sparkling sip of summer, we find this quickly drapes itself in intrigue fit for long, candle-lit evenings. Wild blackberry and neroli fizz vivaciously atop the fragrance, beckoning you closer to an opulently plush heart of orange blossom and tuberose – florals that unfurl in sultry, petal-soft waves. Finally, the base, a mesmerising black vanilla mousse, emerges like dusk itself – sweet, enigmatic, almost edible, cocooning you in an irresistible, velvety warmth as night falls outside.

Currently £64 for 50ml eau de parfum debenhams.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl Forever

That first glorious rush of blackberry is joined by the sunlit optimism of bergamot and juicy pear. It is nostalgia and modernity entwined, echoing the familiar warmth of the beloved icon with the joyful anticipation of new beginnings. Peony, iris, and jasmine bloom in the heart, like a floral crown tossed joyfully in the breeze, before settling into a gently enveloping base of amber, sandalwood, and cedarwood. This fragrance is a soft, nostalgia-laden embrace, wearable for crisp spells and those golden afternoons destined to become scent memories.

From £22 for 30ml eau de toilette theperfumeshop.com

 

With blackberry scents, it’s as though autumn reveals its playful side, yet at the same time invites us closer, urging us to wrap ourselves in the comfort of berries and woodsmoke, spice and memory, with an invitation to linger a little longer in the mellow magic of the season.

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Textures of Scent – The Fabric of Fragrance

September has always felt like a time of new beginnings, the turning of a perfumed page, as the fashion world steps out from its long summer pause and sweeps us straight onto the catwalks of New York, London, Milan and Paris. There is such theatre to it all – the flutter of fabric hems, the tactile delight of swishing silks and structured cottons, the way clothes move around the models who, in turn, set all of us dreaming.

Because fragrance is so entwined with fashion, here at The Perfume Society we anticipate this moment every year with particular joy. You’ll soon see our annual Fashion & Fragrance edition of The Scented Letter magazine – coming very soon, so do ensure you are signed up to receive your free digital copy the moment it launches!

One theme we’re exploring in the blog this month, meanwhile, is fabric and fragrance, and how often our language around scent borrows from the lexicon of touch and texture. A perfume can be velvety, suede like, cashmere soft, opulently plush, intricately woven like linen or taut with a leather-ish bite.

 

 

And just as, in September, we shift the textiles we live with – perhaps bringing a thicker throw to the sofa or swapping lightweight cottons for fondly worn but still lightweight woollens – so too do we begin to crave scents with a comforting weight, offering a touch of warmth without quite the enveloping density of winter perfumes.

We hope you enjoy this sensory plunge into likening perfume’s characters to the colours, density and feel of the following fabrics. And just imagine, the next time you reach for a favourite fragrance: what fabric might you liken it to? Do you even dress to ‘match’ your scent of the day – without having previously been aware of it – we wonder…?

 

 

AKRO Bake immediately conjures the simplicity of a favourite Breton striped jersey, the kind slipped on for a wander to the sanctuary of your favourite bakery. With fluffy tendrils of dark vanilla pods threaded through silky white musk and warm, doughy gourmand notes, it sits against your skin like that trusty striped top – casual yet stylish, deliciously effortless, and with a sweetness that feels unfussy and free spirited.

From £80 for 30ml eau de parfum thefragranceshop.co.uk

Fabric matched: Breton Stripe Jersey Dress Fabric – White/Vanilla by Higgs & Higgs

 

 

 

Granado Cedro, by contrast, wears its character as lightly as whimsical illustrations on a roll of cedar patterned fabric. Imagine a room dressed in charming, line drawn trees, their branches unfurling across the walls in a quietly playful rhythm. This fragrance brings that woody freshness into being, cedar wood made forever breezy, sketch like, graceful. It feels as though the fabric itself might ripple in a soft September wind, grounding and invigorating in equal measure.

Try it in the Granado Coleção Elixir Discovery Set £48 for 5 x 10ml in the Shop

Fabric Matched: Cedar in Slate Apple & Ivy by Scion

 

 

 

 

Connock England Kukui Noir drapes itself like a distortion of romance, a Gothic velvet in deepest rose and ink black shadows. The sensation is of brushing fingertips across velvet pile, that faint shiver of plush texture and silky darkness intertwined. Florals smoulder instead of blooming, petals painted in chiaroscuro light, while amber and woods cocoon the wearer in cinematic mystery. A perfume with presence and depth, but kept supple and inviting, as though beckoning you into a velvet curtained alcove.

From £25 for 10ml eau de parfum connockengland.co.uk

Fabric Matched: Gothic Rose Noir velvet by Foy & Co

 

 

 

 

Goldfield & Banks Ingenious Ginger is a weighted linen in a warm ochre tone, we feel, flung wide like a tablecloth joyously thrown to grab a languorous lunch in early autumn’s golden sunlight. House of Hackney’s glorious ginger hued fabric here exudes the fragrance’s flamboyance, glowing with radiant spices and an almost citrus tinted effervescence. It brings a lift and an optimistic crackle of brightness, ensuring that autumn need not be draped in solemn tones, but enlivened with bursts of sunshine rendered in spice.

£130 for 100ml perfume concentrate selfridges.com

Fabric Matched: Caspar linen by House of Hackney x Nickey Kehoe

 

 

 

 

EAUMG Amber Addict has the fluidity and drape of an amber toned twill. Twill always carries a sense of structure softened by pliability – the way the weave appears diagonal yet flowing. The amber in this addictive fragrance performs a similar balancing act: molten, opulent, richly hued, yet never too heavy, being shot through with piquant cassis and riven with roses. Instead, it folds around the wearer in waves of perfumed comfort, like being enveloped in the swish of a fabric that seems impossibly chic yet remains intimately wearable.

£95 for 50ml eau de parfum in the Shop

Fabric Matched: Amber Flow viscose twill by Pound Fabrics

 

September asks us to dress, and scent, in layers – not yet swaddling wintry drapery, but certainly with a hint of warmth, a painterly depth, an assurance of poise. Just as an outfit is completed with the perfect finishing touch of fabric, so a fragrance transforms the way we carry ourselves, swathing us in invisible texture we waft in our wake with every scented spritz…

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale