Perfectly Picked Pear Perfumes…

Pear is a radiant note in modern perfumery, known for its succulent fruitiness and cheerful sweetness. In scents, pear can evoke the dew-spangled, juicy bite of ripe fruit or lend a more translucent, watery green aspect – a delicate alternative to brighter citruses. Its rounded, mellow nature means perfumers often use pear to create a sense of lightness, to harmonise white florals, or to bring an appetising, almost mouthwatering quality to both feminine and unisex compositions.​

Extracting true pear essence is challenging, as the fruit yields little natural aromamaterial, so most pear notes in perfumery are skilfully crafted from both natural distillates and synthetics. Materials such as hexyl acetate and hexenol lend a fresh, juicy, and distinctly green-fruity profile reminiscent of pear. Aldehydes can also imbue fragrances with that shimmering, clean sensation often associated with pear. In a few instances, natural pear aroma may be produced as a by-product of pear juice distillation, carefully concentrated for perfumery use, though by far the most fine fragrances rely on expertly-balanced synthetic accords to ensure stability and vibrancy in a final composition.

With fruit having had a bumper year, and now being the perfect time to harvest ripe pears, we pay perfumed tribute to this note, and suggest you seek out these scents, ripe for the smelling…

 

Jeroboam Kun Amo

Kun Amo opens with a vivid burst of bergamot and mandarin, but it’s the gleaming, juicy pear that brings light and liquidity to the fruity top. Almond, jasmine and raspberry round out the heart, while a base of musks and ambery woods cushions and softens. Here, pear feels plush and nectarous, adding an inviting, gently succulent undercurrent that balances the musky depth and makes the fruity brightness linger just a little longer.​

£100 for 30ml extrait de parfum selfridges.com

Miller Harris Poirier d’un Soir

This fragrance is an ode to golden hour in an English orchard. The pear in Poirier d’un Soir is shrouded in bergamot and marigold, nuanced with rum for a warm, gently glowing opening. As it develops, the pear becomes more honeyed and plush, nestling into peony, Turkish rose, a delicate whisper of spice, and finally, musky birch and cedarwood. The pear note here feels autumnal—crisp at first, then mellow, surrounded by twilight florals and a wisp of smoke.​

£140 for 100ml eau de parfum selfridges.com

BDK Parfums Bouquet De Hongrie

Bouquet De Hongrie is an airy, luminous floral wrapped around a juicy pear note that glows in the opening. Blackcurrant and strawberry add vibrancy alongside the pear, giving the initial impression of fresh-cut fruit. As the florals—particularly Turkish rose and jasmine—emerge, the pear lends dewiness and lift, while a soft musk and cedar base keeps the whole composition transparent, sheer, and romantic.​

£190 for 100ml eau de parfum johnlewis.com

Ormonde Jayne Damask

Ormonde Jayne Damask weaves pear tightly into its tapestry from the very start. Blackcurrant and Italian lemon offer tartness, while the pear rounds those edges, offering a subtle juicy smoothness. Threaded with jasmine, pink pepper, and a gently powdery rose, the overall impression is both modern and classic. Pear in Damask acts as a soft, barely-there green sweetness, supporting the florals and offering a cushion for the musky amber and vetiver beneath.​

£175 for 88ml eau de parfum selfridges.com

Les Eaux Primordiales Couleur Primaire

Couleur Primaire is a study in cleanliness and harmony. Here, aldehydes and pear lead, evoking the sensation of freshly-laundered linen and the dew of an early morning. The pear offers watery, translucent sweetness, almost soapy in purity, and mingles with jasmine, peony and a musky, ambroxan-rich base. The overall effect is of clarity and ease—where pear feels like a breath of gentle, green air, integral to the scent’s tranquil, uplifting comfort.

£160 for 100ml eau de parfum lessenteurs.com

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Get ready for sandalwood’s snuggles

Suddenly our duvets have become irresistible and those opaque tights have made their appearance from the back of the drawer. Along with cashmere cardis and hot toddies replacing the t-shirts and G&Ts (okay, we actually haven’t quite given up G&Ts), so our fragrance tastes tend to swing toward something warmer – a snuggle in a bottle that helps you get out of bed in the morning and comforts you throughout the day.

Sandalwood-rich perfumes are great ones to look for in the autumnal months or colder climates, offering a smooth creaminess that clings to the skin like a cashmere blanket – a poncho made from perfume. Yes we may sometimes wish to be pepped up with a citrus blast every now and again, even on a chilly day; but the majority of us here at TPS Towers are longing for something to snuggle into, and sandalwood as a dominant note definitely fits that bill.

In our just-published Couture edition of The Scented Letter Magazine, my leading feature seeks out ‘The sensational history of sandalwood‘, looking into versatility of this ingredient, and finding out just why perfumers (and perfume-wearers) love it so. But the topic is so vast, I really wanted to give you even more sandalwood-filled snippets, and urge you to swathe yourself in sandalwood scents you already love, or to think about getting seriously cosy with something sandalwood-y and new to you…

Some sandalwood facts:

Sandalwood is used in the base of up to 50% of feminine fragrances.

Supremely versatile, it blends exquisitely with clove, lavender, geranium, jasmine, galbanum, frankincense, black pepper, jasmine and patchouli (among others).

It works as a ‘fixative’, tethering other ingredients and keeping them ‘true’, in a composition.

So many sandalwood trees have been cut down in India, largely for production of perfume and incense – often illegally harvested, because it’s such a valuable commodity – that it’s become endangered.

The good news is that plantations in Australia are now coming on-stream, producing (santalum spicatum) sandalwood oil of high quality – to the relief of ‘noses’ (and conservationists.)

A wide range of synthetic sandalwood-like ingredients are now used in place of this at-risk wood, to give a similarly smooth milkiness (see below for our guide)…

The synthetics now available for perfumer’s to expand their palette is now fairly extensive. With the cost of Mysore (often considered the best quality, and the most endangered) sandalwood increasing approximately 25% per year, you can understand why many fragrance brands are choosing to use these aroma-chemicals, for cost-effective (would you continue to buy a favourite fragrance if it doubled in price every four years?) as well as conservation reasons.

In my magazine feature, indie perfumer, and founder of 4160 Tuesdays, Sarah McCartney, explains why synthetic sandalwood is so vital for perfumers – and how most people asked to compare natural and synthetic sandalwood side-by-side in a blind smelling, will confidently declare those synthetics to ‘definitely be the natural’ wood. So generally, ‘…if you have sandalwood listed in the notes, it will either be accompanied by its synthetic sisters, or replaced entirely.’ Among these synthetics we have:

Beta santalol – considered to be one of the most ‘nature identical’ of sandalwood notes, this imparts the comforting creamy snuggle we expect.
Polysantol – formerly trademarked by Firmenich , it has herbal depth with just a touch of filth for the animalic scent lovers out there. Realistic enough in a composition, it also has great lasting power.
Levosandol  – by Takasago is shot through with tang of dry cedar-like notes for an overall woodiness.
Ebanol – a Givaudan trademark, is remarkably rich and surprisingly potent. The snuggle that just keeps going.
Fleursandol – by Symrise, this one has a lightly floral character beneath the dominant, life-like sandalwood note.
Try sandalwood in these beauties…

But McCartney also reminds us that many naturals also ‘replace’ or snuggle up to natural sandalwood in fragrances, ‘One good natural substitute is amyris essential oil,’ she continues. ‘Mine is from Haiti and smells closer to aged Mysore oil than my Australian or modern Indian sandalwood. Amyris is known as Hatian sandalwood, but is a different species. Sandalwood has strength and richness but never overpowers or forces its way through a composition.’

David Moltz, perfumer and co-founder of cult niche house D.S. & Durga agress on this so-special charcteristic of sandalwood, explaining, ‘Though long-lasting and incredibly umami for a wood, its overall throw is soft. So it’s persistent but never overpowers other oils.’ Personally, he likes to mix the types of sandalwood he uses, depending on what he’s trying to achieve, so he uses ‘…a bunch of different sandalwoods. In the D.S. fragrance, I used top-grade Sri Lankan sandalwood which is the closest we have to the fabled and ethically challenged Mysore varietal from south India.’

Whichever character of sandalwood you choose, it’s just perfect to embrace on chillier, grey days – so do have a look for some of these, and get ready to fully embrace sandalwood’s cosy sensuality…

Molten sandalwood and cedar melds with warm amber, a wispy jasmine that fluffs itself up around ghost lily, waxy magnolia and narcotic ylang ylang. It all dries down to the most glorious pepper speckled honey for a ‘your skin but better’ daily cuddle. Self-care in a bottle.
Estée Lauder Sensuous £56 for 50ml eau de parfum
theperfumeshop.com

 

 

Like burying yourself in a boyfriend’s favourite jumper, textural layers of pink pomelo, ginger and green lemon brush against soft lavender and jasmine whispers. Finally, skin’s wrapped in that comforting sandalwood, with birch, oak, patchouli and musk. Sans boyfriend? I think this amply replaces many.
Missoni Parfum Pour Homme from £33 for 30ml eau de parfum
thefragranceshop.co.uk

Distant recollections of being warm without woollen undergarments evoked with the delectable creaminess of iris butter swirled into sandalwood. It’s all blissfully relaxed limbs slathered in retro-smelling coconut suntan oil and a cool lick of vanilla ice-cream. Thanks for the memories…
Juliette Has a Gun Sunny Side Up £110 for 100ml eau de parfum
harveynichols.com

 

A handsome (completely unisex, we think) scent that’s crisp as a tall G&T (told you we were clinging on) at first, then sinks beguilingly to a dandyish clove, cardamom and nutmeg-laden heart and the softness of sandalwood and vanilla muskiness beyond.
Floris Santal £80 for 100ml eau de toilette
florislondon.com

 

A sacred signal to the Gods, incense billows through saffron’s golden glow, precious frankincense swirled amidst a plush heart of rose absolute, smooth sandalwood soothing you like a whisper on a breeze of translucent white musk. Wearing it feels like knowing the very soul of perfume – ‘per fumum’ meaning ‘through smoke’.
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Extraordinaire Rêve d’Encens £260 for 125ml eau de parfum
harrods.com

Written by Suzy Nightingale