Tag: material

Oakmoss: The Perfumer’s Gift

Oakmoss is one of perfumery’s greatest gifts: a forest‑deep, time‑travel note that shaped entire fragrance families and still quietly anchors some of the most sophisticated scents on your dressing table…

Despite its name, oakmoss isn’t a moss at all but a lichen – Evernia prunastri – which festoons the trunks and branches of oak trees across Europe and North Africa, thriving only where the air is clean. Depending on whether it is dry or damp, it can vary from pale green to almost black, transformed via solvent extraction into the inky, paste‑like absolute that perfumers prize.

 

 

 

Ask perfumers to describe oakmoss and you will hear the same images recurring: a walk through a forest after rain, the coolness under old trees, the scent of damp bark, lichen and shaded earth. On skin, oakmoss feels dark‑green and textural, earthy and woody, with mineral facets suggesting cold stone, along with whispers of leather, smoke, resin and even a faint salt‑lick of sea air. There is a sensual side, too: many describe a soft, almost musky and ambered sweetness nestling in the depths of oakmoss, which gives a fragrance both body and an enveloping, slightly powdery caress as it dries down. Crucially, it lends structure – the “backbone” that supports sparkling citrus or airy florals. The key element to oakmoss is an air of mystery: think of it as being the ambergris of the land.

 

 

 

Technically, oakmoss is invaluable. By knitting together citrus, aromatics, florals and woods, oakmoss brings balance and a sense of verticality, so a composition feels three‑dimensional and polished. Used in smaller touches, perfumers slip oakmoss into woody, fougère and even ambery compositions to suggest shadow, depth and that elusive “understory” of nature beneath the more obvious notes.

For all its beauty, oakmoss has a problematic side. Certain components of natural oakmoss have been implicated as possible skin sensitisers. In response, regulatory bodies have imposed strict limits on its use. These restrictions meant that many beloved classics – particularly chypres that once used generous amounts of oakmoss in their concentrate – had to be reformulated, with quantities drastically reduced or natural moss removed altogether.

 

 

 

But all is not lost for oakmoss devotees. One major response has been the development of fractionated qualities in which the sensitising molecules have been selectively reduced to trace levels, while preserving much of the characteristic odour profile. Alongside this, perfumers lean on a palette of substitutes and supporting players to recreate the mossy illusion: patchouli, vetiver, labdanum, cedar, green aromatics and modern ‘moss’ aroma‑chemicals all help to conjure that shady, bitter‑green depth. There’s still much to swoon over – consider these…

 

 

 

 

Ormonde Jayne Evernia

Interlacing florals fall gently over the powdery tenacity and subtle earthiness of oakmoss – this anchors the composition and connects each note with graceful depth. Its presence weaves through cashmeran, sandalwood and musk, bringing elegant structure and sensual longevity. Evernia’s oakmoss underscores the scent’s elegance, linking freshness to a lingering dry-down.

£235 for 88ml eau de parfum ormondejayne.com

 

 

 

Goldfield & Banks Silky Woods Elixir

A darkened forest is conjured, where creamy vanilla and radiant oud ripple beside misty fig and rose. Within this deeper elixir, oakmoss emerges to lend its trademark cool, enveloping greenery – shaping the path from woody base to sweet top, extending allure and earthy persistence. Subtle, nuzzly green transforms every shift in texture for lasting intrigue.

£227 for 100ml parfum elixir harveynichols.com

 

 

 

 

Miller Harris L’Air de Rien

A gloriously nostalgic, bookish air and golden musks settle over a ground rich with velvet-y musk. Oakmoss brings a dry softness and a unique sense of intimate mystery – vivid images of old libraries, weathered covers and autumn leaves pile up as its earthy base knits smoky vanilla, amber and neroli together, lending the whole blend warmth, comfort and an irresistible, lived-in texture. Achingly chic.

Currently £112 for 100ml eau de parfum instead of £140 millerharris.com

 

 

 

Yellow square bottle of Eros Energy fragrance by Versace

Versace Eros Energy

As autumnal woods brush up against a mouthwatering citrus medley, oakmoss acts quietly but decisively to anchor the energy and brightness of these vivid notes – giving gentle, mossy contrast and grounded earthiness alongside patchouli. It stabilises the shifting accord, guides the scent to its elegant base, and supplies texture for an adventurous, multi-season scent profile. The perfect scent for those craving luminosity atop the more usual nuzzle-me notes of a moss-forward fragrance.

Try a sample in the Scents of Couture Discovery Box £13.20 for 9 samples in the Shop

 

 

 

 

 

Penhaligon’s Daphne Bouquet

Spring’s joyful daphne blooms burst with radiant optimism while moss grounds the bouquet in elegant verdancy. Oakmoss here is a subtle yet crucial thread – wrapping floral sweetness with a cool, earthy embrace that evokes garden paths and royal traditions. Its chypre resonance brings gravitas and freshness, deepening every green nuance and connecting us gently to Highgrove’s lush spirit.

£175 for 100ml eau de parfum penhaligons.com

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

The alchemy of ambergris – perfume’s most peculiar treasure

Ah, ambergris – the very word conjures tales of wildest fragrant fortunes, ranging from shipwrecked treasures found by dog-walkers on Dorset beaches to ancient Egyptian rituals, pungent dragon’s spittle (!!) in Chinese folklore and the really rather unexpected presence of whale effluvia being in a pretty perfume bottle in the first place.

 

Long before the perfumed profiles of ‘skin-like warmth’ ambergris can bring, this waxy lump cast up by the salty froth of the ocean has seduced the noses of emperors, poets and the modern nose with seductive magic. One can’t help but marvel at nature’s curious and casually thrown gift, which begins its life (steel yourselves) entombing indigestible bits of squid in the bowels of a sperm whale, which, once regurgitated, dries to a resinous block with a beauty only time and sea air can reveal.

Finally maturing from the – ahem – distinctly faecal into the kind of radiance chemist Gunther Ohloff once described, this prized perfumery note reveals its true nature as (to echo Ohloff): ‘earthy, tobacco-church wood, musky and radiant.’ In perfumery, ambergris anchors the most fugitive molecules, pining the fleeting prettiness of a top note and refusing to let go – a fixative par excellence.

 

 

These days, even the most ardent perfumers must cast longing glances at ambergris and, faced with (forgive the reminder) stomach-churning prices and the small matter of whale protection laws, generally reach for their synthetic alternatives. Ambroxan – distilled from clary sage with the tenacity of a stubborn librarian – is the kingpin, while other cleverly conjured molecules like Ambrinol S, Ambrinol 95, Ambrarome and Ambrain whisk up similarly animalic, skin-like, salt-licked woollen warmth; but without sending accountants into a spin.

What does ambergris truly evoke in scent?

The perfume-poetic’s reply would be a blend of windswept church pew, Brazil nut, sun-bleached marine legends and a licentious wink of musk. But it’s probably more helpful to think of ambergris almost being used as a ‘seasoning’ within a scent composition, if you will – a touch of it not only adding its own nuance, but allowing the other materials to bloom and beckon you forth once cloaked in its mysteriously misty, salt-tinged and powdery air.

Even the Black Death couldn’t dull the appeal of ambergris – indeed, it became even more sought after, with balls of ambergris clutched as perfumed talismans against pestilence, which, frankly, sounds a bit optimistic but is just the sort of thing we love to imagine we’d do under the circs. Modern fragrances continue the tradition of using the note with an almost alchemical air. So yes, some scents whisper with ambergris as the secret heartbeat in their compositions, though as we say, though very few use tinctures of the real deal; the miraculous synthetic molecular versions can each add their own wisp of whimsicality (or full-on throaty purr of seduction).

 

If you’re entranced and want to learn more, do seek out a copy of the book all about the history of ambergris in perfumery: Floating Gold, which we’ve reviewed here. Meanwhile, to further whet your appetite for ambergris, here’s a scented selection we suggest you try…

 

 

 

 

Clive Christian Town & Country

Pristine herbs are polished with the glint of countryside morning, before ambergris unfurls below – as stately and complex as London’s City of Westminster. Sandalwood cushions the composition, lending an air of sophisticated poise, as if one is donning Churchill’s coat (he apparently used to wear this fragrance!) and stepping out amidst dew-dappled grass for a spot of painting.

£400 for 50ml eau de parfum fortnumandmason.com

 

 

 

Mizensir For Your Love

A kiss immortalised – powdery raspberry and musk twirl boldly, inviting a second glance and moments of skin-on-skin intimacy. Ambergris, conjured via its closest molecular cousins, pulses close to the body, cloaking the perfume in a sweetly provocative — almost human — warmth. The effect lingers like a private love note, at once daring and elegantly tender.

£200 for 100ml eau de parfum selfridges.com

 

 

Creed Green Irish Tweed

Fresh as a walk through mythic meadows, verdant iris and lemon verbena tumble against the wind, violet leaves catching a brief shaft of sun. At its heart, ambergris merges with Mysore sandalwood, making the composition sporting yet unforgettable – a classic breeze that beckons everyone to linger longer in the green.

£285 for 100ml eau de parfum libertylondon.com

 

 

 

 

Strangelove NYC silencethesea

Hypnotic and primal, this fragrance floats ambergris tincture atop oud, white truffle and a saline whisper of jasmine. There’s an earthy mystery, as tuberose dives deep and Angelique roots shimmer, crafting a salty-woody intimacy that feels as charged and secretive as a lover’s gaze, the ambergris infusion breathing a spellbinding hush.

(We love wearing it in teeny dabs from their exquisite pure parfum necklace version of the scent…)

£248 for 1.25ml pure parfum necklace harrods.com

 

OR, why not try it in the strangelove Discovery Set of eaux de parfums so you can explore the entire collection? £92 for 5 x 2ml samples in the Shop

 

 

Electimuss Trajan

Bottled sunshine and unisex adventure, Trajan sweeps through Mediterranean citrus groves, picking up lavender, sage, cedar and sugared spice. Ambergris waits in the wings, coolly ushering a breeze that soothes the warm landscape and mingles with zesty sweetness, for a fragrance that traverses empires in spritzes, promising longevity, projection and endless charm.

£158.33 for 100ml eau de parfum jovoyparis.uk

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale

The Scented Sweater – fragrances we love to spray & snuggle in

There’s nothing quite like the soft, enveloping snuggle of cashmere – more than simply a wool to keep you warm, it’s become synonymous with supreme luxury, and fragrances that borrow the fluffy feeling of this material are the perfect comfort scent.

What does ‘cashmere’ mean in fragrant form, though? Perfumers aren’t extracting the wool itself into a scent; instead, they may use Cashmeran™, a trademarked synthetic material sometimes also called Cashmir (or Kashmir) Wood.

There’s no ‘cashmeran’ bush, or tree, or root, though:  this is a synthetic ‘fantasy ingredient, also sometimes referred to as ‘blonde woods’ on perfume note ‘pyramids’. (Cashmeran™ is a trademarked ingredient from the perfumer supplier International Flavours and Fragrances, or IFF.) It’s a-little-bit-musky, a-little-bit-spicy, a-little-bit-powdery qualities become even more versatile in the hands of perfumers: they know how Cashmeran™ almost ‘melts’ into many types of ingredients to add an extra, almost tactile sensuality to perfumes within a wide range of fragrance families.

 

 

 

 

Cashmeran™ also works to ‘expand’ and diffuse floral ingredients. (Lots of perfume notes work ‘synergistically’ in this way, which is why perfumery is such a complex art.) You may also be familiar with it from body products and even fabric conditioners: Cashmeran™ ‘clings’, and doesn’t rinse out well, leaving traces of its sensuality on the skin after showering, or your bedlinen after laundry day.

So now, do you need something to spritz as an extra ‘layer’ of protection (but that’s not too overwhelming), to conjure that feeling of hitting ‘snooze’ and staying in bed awhile longer; or perhaps a perfume for those occasions you could really do with a hug in a bottle? Read on, wrap up, and let’s get cosy in cashmere…

 

 

Electimuss Mercurial Cashmere

A fragrance to ride with us amidst changeable moods, maybe? ‘The most popular of the gods, Mercury was adored for his irresistible charm and wit and the inspiration for this sensuous and seductive scent.’ With an alluring character, the cloud of cardamom-flecked iris swirls to the buttered warmth of tonka and amber touched by cashmere’s creamy caress. Especially good at granting you backbone and strength, we say: wear this fluffy, irresistiable scent and feel better for every possible perfumed mood-swing!

£235 for 100ml pure parfum jovoyparis.uk

 

 

 

 

 

Guerlain Les Matières Confidentielles Eau de Cashmere

Intimately personal and part of a collection made to be spritzed on the skin ‘or over one’s favourite materials’, the Eau de Cashmere is whisper-soft, a creamy concoction of powdered iris and freshly plumped pillow-like lavender, with a breezy background of aerated woody and musky notes as it warms on the skin. It’s one of those ‘I don’t know what to wear’ go-to scents, and ‘Misted also over a jumper or across the entire wardrobe,’ says Guerlain, ‘it provides a pleasure of incomparable softness.’ We couldn’t agree more!

£145 for 100ml eau de toilette selfridges.com

 

 

 

Narciso Rodriguez Cristal

Perfumer Nathalie Gracia Cetto unfurls a ruffled citrus breeze that blooms into freesia and voluptuous orange blossom. The signature woody white musk is woven throughout the composition, making it unmistakably a Narciso creation, but with a crystalline gleam that sparkles enticingly. Wrapped in a whisper of cashmere-swathed warmth, think sunshine diffused by fluffy clouds, a soft stole worn insouciantly draped over tanned shoulders. One that fans will want to add to their collection.

From £61 for 30ml eau de parfum theperfumeshop.com

 

 

 

 

Acqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile

Crisp, sun-baked citrus immediately feels mood-lifting, and the mellow magnolia here wafts a softness through the sometimes more highly-strung notes of tuberose and jasmine. A feather-light, woody base grounds softly as a whisper. To be worn poolside in a white silk kaftan, ideally, but for Autumn and winter in the U.K. we suggest spritzing on a cashmere cardi, and revelling.
From £178 for 50ml eau de parfum johnlewis.com

 

Fragrance du Bois Santal Complet

Inspired by waves of bliss you feel on sunny but chilly days, lemon’s brightness frosted with coconut shavings gleams to the heart of soft violet and black pepper, before that creamy base sandalwood swirls like a cashmere wrap around your shoulders, a hug of warmth resonating with the amber, musk and vanilla that’s a joyously sun-filled snuggle.

£245 for 100ml eau de parfum harveynichols.com

 

Written by Suzy Nightingale