Fragrance Foundation Awards 2019

Last night the Fragrance Foundation Awards, aka the ‘Oscars of the fragrance industry’ were awarded at a glittering, star-studded evening that saw nominees and winners celebrating in full swing – surely the best-smelling crowd at any awards ceremony!

We began with an important reminder of just how much the fragrance industry brings to jobs and the economy of the UK… 7.1 billion of GDP, with 126,700 people employed, bringing in £2.2 billion of tax revenue and making up £7.5 billion of consumer spending.

Of course at The Perfume Society we’re constantly showcasing fragrance houses, both big and small, and the people behind the scenes of the industry, but it’s not often we get to showcase the fragrance heroes altogether, and to see so many friends in one place, so everyone was definitely in party mood!

We were thrilled to be invited, having won a Jasmine Award for our (now multi-award-winning!) magazine, the A-Z issue of The Scented Letter. Available free as a digital download for our VIP Club members, with print issues to purchase separately in the shop, and now with an International Online Subscription for only £20 for a full year of fragrant reading, we must admit we’re rather proud of our publication. Have a free issue of The Scented Letter by clicking on the cover, below…

Please do have a look at all the Jasmine Award Winners – we’ve linked to their winning pieces here – we were so honoured to be counted among them, and to share a table with them at the awards ceremony!

And now, on to the amazing winners of the evening. Drum-roll please…

Best New Media Campaign: Map of the Heart for White Heart – such a great achievement for this niche house! Read our review and watch the winning film, here. We put this fragrance in our first ever Niche Collection box, which sold out ages ago sadly, but have a look at our new Limited Edition Niche Discovery Box while it’s still available…!

Best New Media Campaign: Hugo Boss The Scent and Boss Bottled United – Groundbreaking award for this brand – the first time ever for a shared prize.

 

Best New Fragrance Design & Packaging: Carolina Herrera Bronze Tonka – stunning bottle and scent, we totally agree.

Best New Independent Fragrance Award: Cloon Keen for Roisin Dubh. Wow, a huge award for this beautiful Irish niche house, as judged by the Jasmine Winners. Read our review… and see why we loved it so much!

Best New Home Fragrance Product: Roja Parfums A Midsummer’s Dream. Completely dreamy, indeed, and such a beautiful theme for a candle…

Perfume Extraordinaire: Diptyque Fleur de Peau. What an incredible fragrance this is – we Jasmine winners judged this award completely blind, and we’re really not surprised it won.

Reader’s Choice Women: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Intense – chosen by readers of the Evening Standard, this more powerful version of the classic perfume has proved to be a huge success.

Reader’s Choice for Men: Dior Sauvage eau de parfum. Another huge-hitter, as chosen by Evening Standard readers, and little wonder it’s been a worldwide best-seller.

People’s Choice Women: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Intense – a double-win, and definitely a hit with fragrance lovers!

People’s Choice Men: Dior Sauvage – and another double-win! These two fragrances are killing it, and the perfumed public can’t get enough.

Newcomer of the Year: Map of the Heart! A hotly anticipated award, and another trophy for this Australian niche house. Their bottles have to be seen to be believed, total art pieces, and the fragrances are just divine. Congratulations!

Holiday Fragrance of the Year: Diptyque Sapin de Lumière scented candle. Just the most gorgeous scent, and oh that packaging. Yes please, all year ’round, we feel…

Innovation Award: Diptyque for their fabulous Mayfair pop-up!

New Fragrance in Limited Distribution: Alexander Mcqueen – only sold in ten retail destinations but lighting up the world of fragrance with their stunning scents and drop-dead-gorgeous bottles.

Best New Fragrance in Limited Distribution: Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Cipressa di Toscano – we’re always carried away by their holiday-in-a-bottle fragrances, and this one has us dreaming of those blue waters.

Online Retailer of the Year: The Perfume Shop – a new award in an ever-growing category, which was mystery shopped as well as voted for. Very well done!

Retailer of the Year: Floral Street. Wow, what an accolade! Huge success for this new house, and we’re so happy for them! Why not come to our incredible event with Floral Street, with their perfumer Jérôme Épinette jetting in to talk us through their latest fragrance…

Best New Fragrance Women: Diptyque Fleur de Peau – as voted for by Fragrance Foundation Members, they are having quite the win-win with this fragrance!

Best New Fragrance Men: Diptyque Tempo – their FIFTH win of the evening, also voted by Fragrance Foundation Members. Also, as ever, these fragrances are totally sharable, so the chaps needn’t think they’ve got dibs on this!

 

Ultimate Launch: Dior JOY – the biggest gong of the ceremony and Dior were having quite the night, wowsa!

Many, many congratulations to ALL the nominees and winners, we’d give everyone awards if we could, and what a special event to be part of celebrating. What a night! Some rather fuzzy fragrant heads around today, we’re betting…

By Suzy Nightingale

International Women’s Day 2019: celebrating female perfumers

As it’s International Women’s Day, can we take a moment to collectively cheer the world’s first recorded chemist – a woman named Tapputi – and a perfume maker whose existence we only know about thanks to being recorded on a 1200 BCE Cuneiform tablet, found in Babylonian Mesopotamia.

Tapputi was granted the title “Belatikallim” which suggests she was regarded as a high-ranking scientist, and her role would have held great sway in both the Mesopotamian government and their religion, because she was overseer of the Mesopotamian Royal Palace.

But think of a perfumer or famous ‘nose’ now and, chances are, the picture that comes to most peoples’ mind is a man in a white lab coat, or – if you’re more romantically inclined – a man in a velvet jacket plucking rose petals at sunrise and being struck by artistic inspiration. My point is: it’s probably still a man you’re thinking of.

In the Fashion, Feminism & Fragrance edition of our magazine, The Scented Letter, we devoted the issue to looking back to the women we have to thank for shaping the way we smell today, and focussing on the current crop of women perfumers shaking up the scent world.

Here, we pay tribute to just some of these remarkable and talented women, and urge you to seek out their work as a way celebrating International Women’s Day 2019

 

Daniela Andrier’s CV now stretches endlessly: triumphs include Bottega Veneta Knot, the daring Maison Martin Margiela Untitled and Guerlain’s Angélique Noire – but the name which continually crops up on her list of creations is that of Prada. She clearly has a fantastic working relationship with Miuccia Prada, which has brought us such blockbusters as Prada Man (2006), Prada Candy (2011), and every single one of the Prada ingredient-focused Infusion series, so widely adored by bloggers and perfume-lovers alike.

 

 

Christine Nagel says the first time she met a ‘nose’, that’s what she knew she wanted to be. So she trained as a research chemist and market analyst, and in Paris, in 1997, launched a seriously distinguished career that’s included creations like the blockbuster Narciso Rodriguez for Her (with Francis Kurkdjian), Jimmy Choo Flash and Guerlain’s Les Elixirs Charnels collection. After several years at Jo Malone London, Christine joined Hermès, to work alongside the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena in 2014. When he retired two years later, Ellena named Nagel his rightful successor, and she took her place as the esteemed Head of Perfumery. Nagel’s pared-down style with innovative twists has composed Eau de Rhubarb Ecarlate, Galop d’Hermès and the much-admired recent addition of Twilly d’Hèrmes – some of the Hermès’ most critically acclaimed and commercially successful fragrances to date.

 

 

Mathilde Laurent is widely considered the ‘rock ‘n roll superstar’ of contemporary perfumery, having been encouraged to become a perfumer by a family friend who noticed from a young age she’d been ‘encountering the world nose first, whether to describe a plate of food or the atmosphere of a new house,’ as Laurent puts it. Trained at ISIPCA after gaining a degree in chemistry and physics, she put in a call to Jean-Paul Guerlain himself, asking for an internship. After three months, she was offered a permanent position and stayed for the next 11 years. Joining Cartier to become their in-house and bespoke perfumer, Laurent has tirelessly worked to promote the creative use of quality synthetics in modern perfumery, in order to ‘shatter the idea that the result had to be hard, abstract, aggressive.’ Her work is by turns contemporary with a classic touch, surprising yet ultimately, sublimely wearable.

 

 

Camille Goutal studied Literature at ‘A’ Level then took courses in art, photography and design at the Louvre Museum School. It led to a career in photography, but it was scent that ultimately beckoned. Her mother, Annick, had founded the now renowned house in 1981, being joined by equally talented nose Isabelle Doyen in 1985 and watching as the name spread like wildfire around the world. By the 1990s, the collection was in the ‘top five’ in leading department stores like Saks and Nieman Marcus. When Annick sadly passed in 1999 aged just 53, Camille – who’d been the inspiration for both the inspiration for both Eau de Camille, and Petite Chérie – the baton was passed from being muse to Aromatique Majeur: honouring her mother’s legacy while continuing to drive the house – now re-branded as Goutal – ever onwards, to the delight and relief of millions of fans worldwide.

 

 

Alice Lavenat was a young perfumer working for Jean Niel in Grasse. Entering the prestigious French Perfumers Young Perfumer of the Year Competition in 2014. Inspired by her family’s wine business, and creatively interpreting the brief of using blackcurrant bud, the judges’ decision was unanimous: Lavenat was awarded first prize. One of Jean Niel’s clients was Marie Lise Bischoff – founder of the perfume house, Nejma – and she’d not only smelled Alice’s fragrance and fallen in love with it, but was determined to nurture the talent of this young perfumer. Naming the creation Parfum d’Alice, her talents have developed Nejma’s incredibly successful fragrance collection, including a collaboration with a French rap star for KoEptYs, and an exclusive range of Extrait for Harrods.

 

 

Fanny Bal is apprenticed to none other than Dominic Ropion – regarded by many as one of the greatest perfumers of our time – who says her approach to perfumery is ‘curious, tenacious and bold’ and predicts she has ‘all the best qualities to become a great perfumer.’ Another ISIPCA alumni, going on to work at IFF, Bal’s currently storming the expectations of the fragrance world with Sale Gosse for Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle (inspired by a mixture of bubblegum, cheeky ‘enfants terribles’, old-fashioned sweets and ‘doodles on the blackboard’). According to Malle, Fanny Bal is known for ‘constantly surprising her seniors’, and having recently smelled her utterly majestic (homage to) Hemmingway for Masque Milano (a trio of vetiver that had us swooning for hours), we say: watch this space. The name Fanny Bal will soon be on every fragrance fan’s lips, and her scents surprising your nose for years to come…

Written by Suzy Nightingale

The Jasmine Awards 2018 Finalists…

When we received emails beginning, ‘Congratulations, you are a finalist!’ we’re pretty sure you must have been able to hear us squealing from the moon…

The Jasmine Awards are often referred to as ‘the Oscars of the Fragrance Industry’ – an annual event in which The Fragrance Foundation celebrates those who write about and discuss fragrance in engaging and innovative ways. We are utterly thrilled to have made the final line-up, with several nominations, and to be sharing that space with so many talented individuals.

The awards will be announced on April 19th, so until then we’ll be sharing some of the nominated features from The Scented Letter Magazine with you right here – content that’s usually exclusively for our subscribers (in print and online) – because as it’s a very special occasion, we wanted to give everyone the opportunity to have a gander!

Below, you’ll find the complete list of finalists in all the categories, but firstly we’d like to share with you an episode of Thomas & Nick‘s always informative (and often hilarious) podcast, Fume Chat, which features none other than our Co-Founder Jo Fairley as a guest, and has been nominated for the Innovation Award.

Have a listen to Fume Chat: The War of the Roses, and do catch-up on any others you may have missed. We’re sure you’ll join the growing legion of listeners who tune in for a regular dose of the duo…

CREATIVE VISUAL AWARD

Can You Feel The Love Look Magazine Lydia Thompson & Ian Oliver Walsh
Crowning Glories Harrods Magazine Jan Masters & Ashleigh Houlton
Scents & Sensibility Men’s Health UK Eric Down, Luke Kirwan & Zena May
The Big Splash Stylist Magazine Shannon Peter, Mitch Payne & Kyle Bean
The Craft Stylist Magazine Nikita Gill & Daniela Jaglenka Terrazzini
The Rise of “Marmite” Perfumes Stella Magazine Alice du Parcq & Josh Caudwell

INNOVATION AWARD

Can a Perfume Change Your Life?
ELLE Magazine Sophie Beresiner & Joely Walker
Crowning Glories Harrods Magazine Jan Masters & Ashleigh Houlton
Episode 16:Molecule Mania Fumechat Nick Gilbert & Thomas Dunckley
Episode 18: The War of the Roses Fumechat Nick Gilbert & Thomas Dunckley
Scents & Sensibility Men’s Health UK Eric Down, Luke Kirwan & Zena May
The Sweet Smell of a Bargain Cosmopolitan Lucy Partington

LITERARY PIECE AWARD

Mimosa: Let The Sunshine In The Scented Letter Jo Fairley
Oranges Are Not The Only (Fragrant) Fruit The Scented Letter Suzy Nightingale
The Rise of “Marmite” Perfumes Stella Magazine Alice du Parcq
This is a Journey into Skank Basenotes.net Louise Woollam
Transcending Scent Stylist Magazine Anita Bhagwandas
Vanilla Wards & Ghosted Olfaction REEKperfume Alex Musgrave

PRACTICAL GUIDE AWARD

Heal Thyself Cent Magazine Suzy Nightingale
Live, Love, Spritz Red Magazine Alexandra Friend
One Scent Good, Seven Scents Better? The Scented Letter Thomas Dunckley
Scents of Calm GRAZIA Alice du Parcq
Scents of Place The Scented Letter Carson Parkin-Fairley
Summer Fragrances for People Who Hate Summer & also Summer Fragrances Basenotes.net Claire Vukcevic

RISING STAR AWARD

Best Fragrance Discoveries 2017 Tommelise Yana Lysenko
Christmas Trilogy Harry Sherwood
Parterre Fragrances – a New Concept in Perfumery Maria Angelidou
Scents & Sensibility Sara Sheridan
Smells Familiar Grace Cook
The Juice – A Sensual Story of a Most Singular Smell Richard O’Mahony

SHORT PIECE AWARD

A Scent To Swear By Financial Times – Life & Arts Kathleen Baird-Murray
Dear Bleu – A Letter of Apology to Bleu de Chanel The Candy Perfume Boy Thomas Dunckley
Falling Through The Chypre Portal I Scent You a Day Samantha Scriven
Free Florals Harper’s Bazaar Hannah Betts
Revisiting Three Modern Perfume Classics How To Spend It Victoria Frolova
Scented Androgyny Harper’s Bazaar Hannah Betts

SOCIAL ENGAGEMENT AWARD

#AdPSmellogram Alice du Parcq
Black Friday The Perfume Shop
Love at First Scent Persolaise
Mixed Gems Rose Gallagher
#Smelfie Campaign Carson Parkin-Fairley
We Wear Perfume Amanda Carr & Tamara Fulton

We would like to congratulate every single person who made the finals, we’re such admirers of all their work, already, and will be biting our fingernails alongside them until the winners are announced!

 

Want to work in perfume? The Perfumer's Story and Azzi Glasser have some exciting roles for you…

Two very exciting new opportunities have arisen to work within the very heart of The Perfumer’s Story and with scent mavern and fragrance designer herself, Azzi Glasser.
Surely the ultimate in contemporary cool, Azzi is an award-winning perfume designer who has created bespoke fragrances for the likes of Helena Bonham Carter, Jude Law, Kylie Minogue, Tom Hardy, Noomi Rapace, Orlando Bloom and Johnny Depp. With a staggering portfolio of artists, designer brands and celebrities who can’t get enough of her fragrances, the launch of The Perfumer’s Story collection gave rise to perfumes inspired – and to be worn by – those with ‘Character & Style.’

Azzi says: ‘We are looking for two talented people to join our team as Development Manager and also as a PA to join our creative, fast growing company.  We will send more details in response to applications…’
Those fragrantly obsessed and keen to work in this exciting industry are kindly requested to get in touch: Azzi@ThePerfumersStory.com
Written by Suzy Nightingle

Pitti Fragranze 2016 – our fragrant journey to the Florentine perfume trade fair…

An annual affair dedicted to showcasing artistic and artisinal fragrance houses to buyers, distributors and press from around the world, it’s always an eye (and nostril!) opening experience to visit glorious Florence and the Stazione Leopolda – an old train station repurposed as a huge and atmospheric conference and event venue.

©PittiImagine

Pitti Fragranze 2016 took place last weekend and marked the 14th successive year of the trade fair, with visitor and exhibitor numbers greater than ever, and we plunged into the seehing crowd with noses twitching to discover what was on offer this year…
sarah-arthur-of-4160-tuesdys
We were thrilled to see many of our fragrance friends there, bumping into 4160 Tuesdays floral-bedecked founder and perfumer Sarah McCartney spritzing her Mystery of the Materials (scents with a story to tell) into teacups (how wonderfully British) for eager sniffers to discover, and causing much swooning by revealing the photograph of her much-admired helper Arthur McBain – an actor when not helping out at her Ealing studios, and currently starring as the model in her just-shot advertising photos. Sarah says customers have been known to write him fan-letters and apparently come over all peculiar when they receive a package with a note in from him. We couldn’t possibly comment…
beaufort-london-fathom-v
Just around the corner, ‘fiercely independent’ Beaufort London were causing something of a buzz – appropriate given the honeycomb-themed decoration of the area – with their five uniquely maritime-inspired fragrances, including the latest launch, Fathom V – a fantastically other-worldly salty, ultra-green scent that puts us in mind of a Pre-Raphaelite Ophelia surrounded by flowers and giving herself up to the embrace of the icy depths…
andy-tauer-atelier-des-ors
In the same golden-hued area was dear friend to The Perfume Society, Andy Tauer, on great form as ever and here showing two new fragrances: Tuberose Flash (an iridescent and totally sparkling tuberose with zero screechiness) and the much-anticipated Au Coeur du Désert (think bestselling Air du Désert Marocain in extrait beauty!)
It was also a joy to bump into the lovely Atelier Des Ors founder and Artistic Director, Jean-Phillipe Clermont – you may recall we were rather excited when they launched in the UK – and sniff the exqusite new Iris Fauve – softly suede-y with a distinctly addictive edge.
di-ser
We thought it was really interesting seeing a Japanese natural fragrance brand showing at the fair – Di Ser – not a culture historically known for their perfume brands, this one uses unsual oils and essences from around the world blended with fabulous quality native natural ingredients, thoughtfully composed and beautifully presented. Interesting, too, to learn that Japanese ladies have long scented their kimonos with delicate fragrances – as Middle Eastern cultures have wafted their robes with highly scented smoke…
pitti-intertrade
Intertrade‘s room is always a must-visit, with their fingers on the perfume pulse of cool, edgy and just beautifully curated brands that carry genuinely interesting but always totally wearable fragrances, available at Avery Perfume Gallery. With the theme of ‘Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner’ they laid a huge table with coloured glasses and ‘place settings’ for each fragrance house. There we saw, and sniffed, new launches – some standouts being Blood Concept‘s gender-bending David Bowie-inspired XX and XY, AGONIST‘s incredibly evocative (and intriguingly named!) White Lies (so-new the bottles weren’t ready yet, but we snapped their previously released, soothingly smoky Hope), and the ravishingly sexy A Lab on Fire‘s cheekily named Messy Sexy Just Rolled Out of Bed
barbara-herman
You see absolutely everyone at Pitti, no matter where you are – and we met the marvellous Barbara Herman – vintage perfume expert and author of the book Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Subversive Perfumes, in the cafe of all places! The perfect excuse for a quick sniffing session of Eris Parfums – a trio of frgrances Barbara worked with a perfumer to create, all based on interpretations of animalic ‘beasts’ (with huge glugs of beauty to balance). Irreverently opulent, glamorously modern with echoes of vintage va-va-voom. And we got a sneaky sniff of the 4th, equally show-stopping scent.
Perfume, a Certain Tradition film
An real treat for cinephiles and fragrance fanatics alike was the private viewing of Perfume, a Certain Tradition – a film by Amsterdam-based Short Notes Portraits offering in-depth portraits of some of the greatest living perfumers – including infamously reclusive or seldom interviewed figures such as Pierre Bourdon, Michel Roudnitska, Frédéric Malle, Mark Buxton, uber perfume-collector George Stam (seriously jaw-dropping pieces!) and the iconically irreverent Serge Lutens… a roll-call of noses and creators that would intimidate many but which the Amsterdam-based company clearly relished the challenge of. A charming, witty and fascinating film, you can watch it on their website and we will be sure to keep you up to date with when the film is released on DVD – so watch this space.
vintage-market-florence
With so much to see and smell, it’s really quite an overwhelming experience – and nigh on impossible to see absolutely everything – but though we were exhausted at the end, we managed to fit in a quit flit to Florence’s wonderful Sunday-morning vintage market. And – ever nosing around for interesting things – we came across a stall laden with vintage parfums, including the most humungous bottle of Lanvin‘s Arpege – sadly our of our pocket, but We Wear Perfume‘s Amanda Carr [NB watch out for the imminent issue of our magazine, The Scented Letter, featuring Amanda’s scent memories] snapped up the Bvlgari scented pencils.
Until next year, dear Firenze
Written by Suzy Nightingale