We all knowwhat Marilyn Monroe wore to bed,but what did she like to bathe in, beforehand; and which matching fine fragrance captivated her to the point of what we would class a definite fragrant obsession: ordering SIX bottles at a time…?
We adore the fact that fragrance is so immediately evocative, and can take us back to happy memories and surround us with a comforting sense of nostalgia. But how wonderful that we can also use fragrance to gain olfactory insight into the past – and to even wear it ourselves, to feel like a star! So: given her famously scandalous revelation of sleeping naked but for THAT iconic scent, we wonder if perhaps Marilyn was way ahead of her time in liking to layer other fragrant body treats, and indeed of stepping outside the (then) social norms of having a single scent you wore to every occasion? It certainly seems so, now we have the actual receipts (as the young people like to say), and can see some of Marilyn’s personal perfumed preferences and scent-shopping habits…
You see, historic British house Floris have a letter from Marilyn Monroe thanking the fragrance house for sending a consignment of Rose Geranium Bath Essence. What superb taste she clearly had: this is also one of our own favourite nostalgic bath treats, with just a drop or two filling the room with its incredible powdery rose geranium fragrance. Alongside the geranium, you’ll enjoy fresh citrus touches, and a beautifully pared-down base of cedarwood.
“Rose Geranium was first introduced by Floris in 1890 when pink geranium was added to the existing Geranium fragrance.
One of our most esteemed and loved clients was Marilyn Monroe, a star that has transcended time and captured our imaginations like no other. Whilst staying in London at Claridge’s Hotel, Marilyn made the short walk from her luxurious lodgings in Mayfair to St James’s and into Floris’ boutique. Under the alias of Miss Dorothy Blass, Monroe ordered six bottles of Floris Rose Geranium ‘Toilet Water’.
The perfumes were to be sent from the Floris shop at 89 Jermyn Street, London to Beverly Hills Hotel in California, where Monroe stayed after filming one of her most famous movies, ‘Some Like It Hot’. The original receipt from 1959, initially under the name of Miss Dorothy Blass was amended to read Marilyn Monroe Miller, is available to view at our Jermyn Street ’museum’ along with other treasured pieces of Floris history.”
And the matching scent the world’s biggest sex-symbol always made sure to stock up on? In their extraordinary archive (some of which is on display in the rear of their stunning Jermyn Street boutique), Floris also happen to have an original form relating to Marilyn, detailing her order for their surprisingly unisex and greenly fresh Rose Geranium – now revived as part of their Ledger Collection. Indeed, she loved it so much she requested SIX bottles at a time be delivered to her in Beverley Hills!
Floris describes: “The characteristic notes of geranium are enhanced by the fresh citrus nuances of citronella and a hint of rose. A harmonious heart with an uplifting blend of palmarosa, the timeless beauty of rose, and the gentle touch of rosewood. A captivating heart that evokes elegance and grace leaves space to a simply woody base note accord of cedarwood. A grounded warm woody presence adds depth and sophistication to the delicate bouquet.”
Floris Ledger Series Rose Geranium£220 for 100ml eau de parfumflorislondon.com
Fragrance is the closest we get to time travel, and via the historic bath essence, and the new Ledger Series eau de parfum, it ensures that this beloved scent, once favoured by Marilyn Monroe, continues to captivate us today. Its enduring appeal not only secures a place in the Floris archives, allowing us to spritz on a piece of history whenever we desire; but also feels perfectly suited for the present – preserving the perfumed legacy for future generations of fragrance (and Marilyn) lovers to come…
Reviving nine archival scents for their thrilling new collection, The Ledger Series is a fantastic opportunity to wear some of the most truly iconic – and timeless – Floris fragrances…
The long-distinguished history of Floris first began in the dreams of one Juan Famenias Floris, who in 1730 sailed from his native Minorca to set up in London. Marrying an English girl, he settled in business as a barber on Jermyn Street within the fashionable St. James’s area, first making hair combs and then assuaging his homesickness by blending fragrant oils he’d transported from Europe. Customers soon took to ordering bespoke blends, all recorded in leather-bound ledgers, enabling Floris to re-create them should further supplies be required in the future – and thus a fragrant dynasty was born.
Many of those original ledgers, order forms and letters of thanks are still in existence, preserved by successive generations of the Floris family, and offering a uniquely fascinating glimpse of British fragrant taste through the ages. Their books boast orders from Admirals serving under Lord Nelson, Florence Nightingale, George IV, through to Winston Churchill. In 1820, Floris received the first of 16 Royal Warrants, the most recent being the title: Perfumers to HM The Queen Elizabeth II and Manufacturers of Toilet Preparations to HRH The Prince of Wales. (Now, of course, King Charles!)
And now, Floris have returned to their archive to revive NINE stunning fragrances from their archives, as part of The Ledger Series. Floris explain:
‘The Ledger Series stands as a testament to the passion and dedication of our perfumery team. This collection is a labour of love, bringing back nine fragrances from the Floris archive that were once discontinued. Meticulously delving into the original family formula books, our team studied and carefully revived these fragrances, ensuring they are preserving the timeless essence of Floris.
Utilising the authentic formulas and employing the finest available ingredients, our perfumery team diligently restored these classic scents within The Ledger Series. This exceptional collection includes Rose Geranium, Malmaison Encore, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Red Rose, Islay, Edwardian Bouquet, Soulle Ámbar and Stephanotis. Each scent, meticulously revived, encapsulates the essence of its historical roots, promising a sensorial journey through time and sophistication.’
You can read the full fabulous stories behind each fragrance in the links below, but for now, let’s explore the fascinating collection…
‘Rose Geranium was first introduced by Floris in 1890 when pink geranium was added to the existing Geranium fragrance. One of our most esteemed and loved clients was Marilyn Monroe, a star that has transcended time and captured our imaginations like no other. The characteristic notes of geranium are enhanced by the fresh citrus nuances of citronella and a hint of rose. A harmonious heart with an uplifting blend of palmarosa, the timeless beauty of rose, and the gentle touch of rosewood. A captivating heart that evokes elegance and grace leaves space to a simply woody base note accord of cedarwood. A grounded warm woody presence adds depth and sophistication to the delicate bouquet.’
‘Led by the legendary Sir Ranulph Fiennes, the historic Great Transglobal Expedition of 1979 embarked on a daring journey to the South Pole, meticulously tracing the Greenwich Meridian. Amidst this epic odyssey, Floris proudly supported the expedition with a suite of provisions, including our intrepid Sandalwood Eau de Parfum. Using the finest sandalwood oil from Mysore, the fragrance is enriched by a captivating blend of bergamot, rose, cardamom and black pepper in the top note, creating a harmonious and intriguing opening. Sandalwood reveals an enchanting heart with orris and star anise, infusing the scent with a mesmerizing blend of floral elegance and subtle spice. The smooth sandalwood scent is enhanced by warm musk’s and the allure of earthy notes of pachouli, creating a creamy and woody base.’
‘Malmaison was a firm favourite of Oscar Wilde who used to visit the Floris Shop to see the Floris family, proudly wearing a green dyed carnation in his lapel. Malmaison Encore opens with a spicy blend of clove, cinnamon and zesty lemon, creating a warm and inviting top note. The floral bouquet of carnation, rose, and ylang ylang, build the romantic and sensual heart of the fragrance, while the base notes of cedarwood, musk and patchouli bring depth and sophistication leaving a lingering trail of captivating allure. The final touch of vanilla together with the spicy carnation, evoke the elegance and timeless beauty of this floral oriental fragrance.’
‘The unisex scent pays homage to the flora of the romantic and isolated Islay and to the wonderful whisky that has lovingly been produced on the island, it is said, since the 1300s. Inspired by the tasting notes and deep flavours of the rich amber liquor, as well as the beautiful island itself, known as “The Queen of the Hebrides”, Islay is also a celebration of the time-honoured ritual of appreciating the deep complex flavours and subtle nuances of whisky.
Earthy green top notes of galbanum bring to mind the wild, windswept gorse hedgerows of Islay complimented by bergamot, highlighting the initial citrus character found in many of Islay’s whisky blends. Orris adds a smooth and soft floral note whilst adding balance to the rich, rugged peaty and smoky accord of prickly juniper oil and patchouli. Finally, just a subtle hint of vanilla with warm comforting musk’s in the base of the fragrance imbue a reassuring outro to the scent.’
‘One of the original Floris fragrances created in 1816. Stephanotis draws inspiration from the Stephanotis flower, also known as the “bridal veil” flower. The fragrance uses oil from the “Madagascan Jasmine”, a flower which symbolises “happiness in marriage”, a delicate beauty and sweet fragrance that embodies love, purity and devotion. Originally created as a bridal perfume for the high society weddings that often took place at the magnificent St. James’s church, built by Christopher Wren in 1684, Stephanotis soon became an established favourite to be worn by brides.
Stephanotis opens with a vibrant freshness of orange blossom, petitgrain, and a touch of green galbanum note. The heart notes of spicy carnation, aromatic coriander, delicate stephanotis and intoxicating jasmine create a floral symphony that captivates the senses with its elegance and allure. A velvety embrace of musk, the soft powdery notes and the soothing essence of sandalwood in the base gracefully concludes this fragrance, leaving a long-lasting warmth and sophistication.’
‘Vetiver was a firm favorite of Legendary Actor and Director Sir Laurence Olivier who used to visit the Floris Shop to see the family. Originally inspired by the exotic aromas, vibrant colours and energy of India. The vetiver plant has been revered for centuries in the mystical land of India. It captures the essence of the rich cultural heritage, spirituality and natural beauty. The earthy and aromatic roots of the vetiver plant embody strength and a connection to nature, creating a captivating and sophisticated scent experience. A twist of bergamot and lemon lifts the distinctive and tenacious notes of vetiver from the heart of lavender, and geranium.
The Vetiver fragrance entices with aromatic heart notes of cinnamon, clove and invigorating coriander blending with the earthy and smoky essence of vetiver. The warm spices contrast with the deep and long-lasting base notes of amber, soothing frankincense, rich patchouli, and comforting sweet tonka bean, creating a captivating and inviting olfactory journey.’
‘Edwardian Bouquet is an expression of the good life; it’s the finest of town and country. Rooms perfumed with hyacinths in springtime, delicate blooms of jasmine in the garden and weekend forest walks, the autumn air heavy with woods and rich oakmoss. Edwardian Bouquet was first introduced into the Floris range in 1901 as a celebration of the new era. The fragrance was then reintroduced in 1984 with the rediscovery of the original formula while going through the family archives.
Opening with the sparkling citrus freshness of bergamot and mandarin combined with a distinctive green accord and the delicate allure of hyacinth. The heart reveals a bouquet of flowers, jasmine, delicate rose and sensual ylang ylang intertwine their floral beauty to create a timeless and elegant olfactory experience, while the fragrance resonates with a base of warm amber, velvety musk, and rich earthy notes of oakmoss and patchouli, creating a sense of elegance and nostalgia.’
‘Sun-filled days and languid evenings where opulent sparks of pineapple and zesty citrus drift on the breeze. Inspired by Floris founder Juan Famenias Floris’s roots on the Balearic Island of Minorca, the fragrance embodies a leisurely Mediterranean spirit. The name Soulle, translates from Spanish as ‘sunlight and eastern wind’. A spirit of adventure, a statement of freedom, Soulle Ámbar excites the senses, anticipating new discoveries just over the horizon inviting you to embrace life and take a chance.
Soulle Ámbar opens with a fresh crisp vibrant note of pineapple capturing the senses. Lentisque and galbanum create an elegant, modern green accord balanced with fresh crisp fruity note of pineapple. A burst of invigorating bergamot creates a vibrant opening to the fragrance. The heart reveals the lush of jasmine, geranium and melilot. The spicy resinous notes are complemented by the tingling pink peppercorns. As it unfolds, the delicate sweetness of vanilla, amber and musk captures the essence of sophistication and leaves a sensual base to complete the fragrance.’
‘Worn by many well-known names over more than two centuries and particular cherished favourite of legendary Vogue Editor Grace Coddington writes in her memoirs: 1959 – “I was probably 19 or 20 when I moved to London with a friend to go to modelling school. We rented a room in Notting Hill Gate, which is an incredibly smart area now, but in those days it wasn’t like that at all. I met people in the coffee bar who signed me up for the Vogue modeling contest, which I won, and who introduced me to the photographer Norman Parkinson. My first picture was a nude for him! [With the money I made] I went to all the old arcades with all the old shops, because I loved old, traditional things—I will, always—and Floris was one of those stores. I didn’t go in with the intention of buying a perfume. I went in because I was responding to the visuals as much as a fragrance I found there called Red Rose. I just loved the idea that it was pretty much crushed rose petals and that was that.”
Red Rose opens with sparkling leafy green notes before the balanced, enigmatic rose character gradually reveals itself. The fragrance blooms with the warmth of cinnamon leaf and clove bud intertwined with the delicate embrace of palmarosa, and the essence of Rose Absolute at its heart. The base notes of vetiver, cedarwood and sandalwood create a comforting effect, while the sensuous depth of musk create a captivating and enduring fragrance.’
Legend has it that before he became famous, the artist, ballet dancer, designer and all-round creative visionary Manfred Thierry Mugler, once visited a fortune teller. So the story goes, she gazed intently at his palm and noted the lines formed a star. Telling him to incorporate the shape in all his designs to ensure his success, he did as she suggested and, well, the rest is history. Whatever the truth of this tale, the star emblem can be found woven throughout the cosmos Mugler created, and forms the shape of what continues to be one of the best-selling fragrances of all time…
Manfred Thierry Mugler died at the age of 73, on January 23rd. Shockwaves have rippled through the fashion and fragrance worlds alike. A message posted on the official Mugler fashion house Instagram account read:
‘It is with deep sadness that the House of Mugler announces the passing of Mr Manfred Thierry Mugler. A visionary whose imagination as a couturier, perfumer and image-maker empowered people around the world to be bolder and dream bigger every day.’
On the catwalk, Mugler’s designs might burst forth in a froth of feathers and acres of pastel tulle, cocooned in form-fitting armour and cinched-in waspie waists or swathed in fetishised, curve-accentuating fabrics on gleefully strident fembot style models. Never expected, always extraordinary, his clothes were vibrant, unapologetically fun and totally unforgettable.
Mugler was also the man behind countless signature looks of celebrities – including outfits for the Too Funky music video by George Michael and Demi Moore’s dress in the 1993 film Indecent Proposal. He also dressed the likes of Grace Jones, David Bowie, Celine Dion, Kate Moss and Diana Ross, with Ross paying tribute to him on Twitter, writing: ‘I will miss you Thierry Mugler this was a wonderful time in our lives.’
Mugler designed costumes for Beyonce’s I Am… World Tour, and the iconic singer paid tribute to Mugler on her official website, posting a black and white picture of the designer with the words ‘Rest In Peace’ above; while Kylie Minogue posted a comment on his Instagram, saying: ‘Deepest condolences (heart emoji) A true visionary. Thank you for your art Manfred.’
His art didn’t stay put on the catwalk, or in high-end clothing boutiques. It burst free again in the massive way his fragrance, Angel, shook up and forever changed the fragrance industry.
What makes an iconic fragrance? To bring about a scented shift, to become a true icon, it can never be a ‘me-too’ crowd-pleaser, it must do something new, take risks. Those ‘classics’ we revere and nod sagely at nowadays were once the punk rock of the perfume world. Angel was an olfactory ‘shock’, when it launched in 1992 – causing a sensation. It was also, crucially, given the gift of time.
In the early 1990’s the fragrance world was all about beachy, clean aquatic scents (now making a comeback in a new wave of water-inspired releases), so the emergence of a brashly swaggering, chocolate-dipped fruity funfair-inspired concoction was all the more shocking.
It should be noted that Angel wasn’t an immediate success. Indeed, one wonders if it had been launched in today’s more impatient marketplace if it would have been allowed to survive that first year. Thank goodness Mugler had the vision to stick with it, and Angel waited until the world caught up with what was the first true ‘gourmand’ or food-inspired fragrance.
To create Angel, Thierry Mugler approached Jacques Courtin-Clarins, head of the celebrated Clarins skincare and fragrance empire. Having revolutionised the world of fashion, the designer was seeking a partner who could bring his brand to life through a fragrance. So Angel was born, with its good-enough-to-eat notes, and an unprecedentedly high concentration of 30% ultra-rich, woody patchouli, added to keep the fragrance from becoming overly sweet.
The patchouli was the brainwave of perfumer Yves de Chiris, who knew he needed something to counterbalance the heart of sugary confections – the candyfloss, caramel and chocolate – which were inspired by Thierry Mugler‘s vivid, fairy-lit memories of a childhood fairground. Together with renowned perfumer Olivier Cresp, they created something more than a mere perfume.
On his personal Instagram account, Olivier Cresp wrote: ‘Thierry Mugler was a true genius in fashion, photography and shapes in a broad sense. I’ve always been amazed by his ability to project through his many projects, he was a great visionary. 2022 is the year of Angel’s 30 years, so let everyone honour her by staying in touch with her through perfume. Working alongside him was a privileged and unique moment that I am very proud and happy of.’
Thomas Dunckley (a.k.a The Candy Perfume Boy) once wrote about his first experience with Angel, saying ‘The very first time I smelled Angel, right at the beginning of my perfumista journey, I was shocked, appalled and disgusted all at once. Who would want to wear this? I thought. But I kept finding myself coming back to Angel, there was something about her, she lured me in and wouldn’t let me go, I was helpless. I became obsessed and after many sniffs I finally bought a bottle, wore it with pride and didn’t look back.’
In later years Thomas commented that Angel ‘is always the perfume that I come back to, and it’s the only fragrance that I can wear for weeks on end without thinking of anything else.’ He continues:
‘Angel isn’t just your typical perfume, she is a legend, a legend in exactly the same way that N°5 and Shalimar are legends. She’s also not just a legend, she is a fierce vixen and a complete diva.’
As Pierre Aulas, Mugler‘s Olfactory Artistic Director comments: ‘What makes Thierry Mugler fragrances successful? The power of the unexpected, the force of audacity and unbridled creativity’.
Angel will always remain an iconic fragrance, with new generations similarly discovering, being shocked by and eventually falling in love with her. Even if you’d never smelled the scent itself, the bottle will be forever emblazoned in our collective consciousness – one of very few flaçons to be instantly recognisable the world over from its shape alone.
As those in the fashion and fragrance spheres continue to mourn Manfred Thierry Mugler’s death, social media is filled with images of celebrities wearing archival pieces and fans lovingly clutching their bottles – ensuring his name, and Angel’s perfumed presence, will be eternally written among the stars. So, if you’re already a fan, fling caution to the wind and douse yourself in an extra spritz; or, if you’ve never quite dared wear it, now’s the time to don that fragrant armour and swagger-forth, deliciously scented and celestially blessed.
It’s really quite incredible to think that Shalimar is 100 years old – having been first launched in 1921 – and that Guerlain‘s most romantic fragrance is still worn and adored to this day. If you’re already a fan of the fragrance you’ll know how special it is, but if you’ve never tried it… oh, you’re in for in a treat!
Jacques Guerlain – Guerlain Perfumer 1890-1955
‘A good perfume is one whose scent corresponds to an initial dream.’
The History: The most prolific of the Guerlain perfumers, Jacques’ rein lasted for an astonishing 65 years. He took over from his uncle Aimé in 1890 and was responsible for creating the ultimate signature of Guerlain, the ‘Guerlianade’: an accord which blends vanilla, bergamot, balsams, tonka bean, iris, rose and jasmine, and has been at the heart of (almost) every fragrance since the early 1920s. His most celebrated creations include L’Heure Bleu, Mitsouko and of course, the astonishing Shalimar, launched in 1921, which remains one of the bestselling fragrances in the world.
The flacon for Shalimar is almost as fascinating as the fragrance inside. Sometimes described as the ‘bat’ bottle (we hadn’t until now quite realised it resembled outstretched wings!), it is also said to resemble a basin that could be admired in the Mughal gardens in India, and was designed by another talented Guerlain, Raymond, with a dark blue stopper chosen to evoke Indian starry nights. The bottle won first prize at the Exhibition of Decorative Arts and Modern Industry in 1925.
Why perfumers love Shalimar: When we interview perfumers, we often ask which classic fragrance they wish they’d created or most admire. One of the most frequent answers? Shalimar, of course. Carlos Benaïm told us, ‘My grandmother used to wear Shalimar. It is magnificent, absolutely wonderful, with that mossiness – not just oakmoss, but the other mosses which we’re restricted from using so much these days…’ And Alberto Morillas – another nose often cited as one of the most talented perfumers working today – explained, ‘If you ask me what is the greatest fragrance ever created, I’d say Guerlain Shalimar. Some might imagine it’s old-fashioned but it’s also very modern. There are all sorts of contrasts inside it – but it works so well.’
Why we love wearing Shalimar: Imagine a silky pair of 1920s pyjamas worn as daywear (or with heels, to a cocktail party) as uplifting lemon and bergamot swirl with honeyed, night-blooming flowers of heliotrope and jasmine. Beautifully rounded by powdery iris and cocooned in a comforting, vanilla-plumped base of patchouli, benzoin, ambergris, tonka bean, incense, vetiver, sandalwood and musk. To wear Shalimar is still the ultimate gesture of olfactive romance.
Quite simply, it’s a masterpiece that’s effortlessly glam. And it’s one of those perfumes that people will still be wearing and talking about in another 100 years, we reckon.
