PERFUME SOCIETY: PERFUMER Q & A
What is your first ‘scent memory’?
When I was 8 years old, the sillage of Bel Ami d’Hermès. This perfume made me decide to become a perfumer.
When did you decide you wanted to be a perfumer/create your own perfume?
This sillage was so beautiful, powerful, subtle, sensual. It was a masterpiece for me. I decided to be able one day to create this kind of emotions too.
What are your five favourite smells in the world?
When I kiss the neck of my daughters
The odor of Corsica when I get off the plane
An original chypre
The sage and Ambroxan
What’s the worst thing you ever smelled. (Honestly!)
Pollution in Paris.
What is the fragrance you wish you’d created?
Sherrer Numero1
Do you feel (like us) that this is one of the most exciting times in fragrance history, because of the creativity being expressed by perfumers? Why do you think that is?
I’m convinced that the creativity was so intense in the 80/90’s.
Lot of new lunches at that time were so avant-garde and modern. Anais, Giorgio, Paris, Samsara, Opium, Cool water, Zino, Kenzo Homme… There was a great diversity!
Nowadays the perfumery is moving thanks to niche brands and the creativity is coming back! I hope that the leading brands of the market will take the risk to become creative again.
If you could have created a fragrance for a historical figure, who would it be?
Marylin Monroe
What’s the first fragrance you bought. And the first bought for you…?
By myself you mean?
Lacoste for women 1999, I was 14 years.
Do you have a favourite bottle design, from those that have been used for your fragrance creations?
I love the Art deco bottles like those of Louis Sue and Andre Mare
How many perfumes might you be working on, at one time?
Today I’m working on 10 new project at one time
Does your nose ever ‘switch off’?
Sure! When I’m sick. I need to use just my brain 😉
How long, roughly, does it take you to create a fragrance?
There is no rule! It could be so fast as so long!!
Is creating a fragrance ‘visual’ for you, as well as something that happens in the nose/brain? If so, in what way…? Is a mood-board helpful?
Yes! When I see a brief I think the odor by colors so it’s so important for me to be impregnated with the atmosphere of what clients attend.
What can each of us do to enhance our appreciation of fragrance?
What is your best tip for improving a person’s sense of smell?
Concentration when we smell. The brain has to be connected with the nose.
And training. We have to smell as often as possible.
If you had one fragrance note that you love above all others, what would that be?
Chypre (Bergamote, ciste, lavande, jasmin, patchouli, mousse de chene)