But here’s a very interesting – and really rather impressive – departure for Mugler fragrances: ‘Les Exceptions’, which sets out to challenge perceptions of this brand by showing off their deep expertise via masterful interpretations of six key fragrance families: Floral, Ambrée, Chypre, Leather, Musk and Fougère.
The ‘noses’ behind the fragrances were the so-talented Jean-Christophe Hérault and Olivier Polge (before he headed off to Chanel to work alongside his father, Jacques). Each, to us, is a completely classic interpretation – but each showcases a ‘surprise’ ingredient, adding a Mugler signature to the families. (‘Surprise’ doesn’t always work in fragrance. Here, it does.)
The six fragrances are currently exclusive to Harrods: a dashed good excuse for a perfume pilgrimage to the Knightsbridge store next time you’re in the capital. Meanwhile do scroll down for more – and to watch the film about the collection…
This revisits one of fragrances most under-valued perfume families (in our opinion): a truly classic construction, with a fruity flash of pear, which ‘takes away the vintage sheen from this great monument of classical perfumery’, says Olivier Polge. Try it. Wear it. Tell us if you don’t stand up a little straighter, have an extra swing in your step – and fall in love.
An evocation of the neglected fougère family – making a welcome comeback, we’ve observed, traditionally blending oakmoss, bergamot, geranium and coumarin. (An overdose has been used here). By weaving neroli into the pyramid, Jean-Christophe Hérault explains, ‘Feminine floral facets of the fougère structure have been intensified.’
A bright and brilliant offering from the most popular fragrance family of all: florals – here, laced with incense, ‘in a paroxysm of absolute sensuality’, Mugler tell us. Olivier Polge adds: ‘By blending notes of incense and an amber base, I imagined a hyacinth with a bold temperament, far from the idea of the emblematic, romantic flower. Supra Floral signals a seductive perfume for women – and temptation for men…’
Over The Musk
Once upon a time, musks were purringly animalic and downright dirty; today, ‘white musks’ – clean and sometimes cottony – have replaced them in the perfumer’s palette. Over The Musk revisits musk’s sensual roots, wtih a carnal overdose of ambrette seeds, which offer an animlaic sensuality, restoring its sexy image while remaining cashmere-soft and nuzzleable.
Ah, leather. Smoky, sexy, classically masculine – but nowadays loved and worn by more and more women. Here, Jean-Christophe Hérault adds an aromatic flash to tarry leather notes, via star anise. As he explains: ‘The aromatic and licorice-like freshness of the spice is the primary enhancer or facets of the leather… like a fresh, green flavouring agent that adds nuance to its dark, carnal depth.’
Last but absolutely not least – on the contrary, this is the fragrance which proved most popular with the bloggers at the launch dinner (and our own particular favourite, too): a traditional sandalwood-vanilla Ambrée accord, given a crisp touch by carrot heart. (Carrots are turning up all over the place in fragrance right now.) Says Polge: ‘This striking contrast gives birth to a feminine or masculine Ambrée fragrance, with an unxpected personality.’
As we like to say: discover, explore and enjoy. (And with something for absolutely everyone within Mugler Les Exceptions, we know you will.)
And now view the film…