Raspberry

raspberryTangy or sweet, juicy or tart:  more sophisticated than a strawberry, but just as lush.  Raspberries quite often appear, nowadays, as part of a ‘red berry accord’ in fruity-, or fruity-floral scents.

Cranberries and blackberries have similar aroma chemicals, but mostly, perfumers turn to one of two synthetics to recreate raspberry-ness:  ‘frambonine’ or ‘raspberry ketone’ (which can also be used as a raspberry flavouring).

Most of us know and love the fruit of the plant – which is a member of the rose family, and is grown all over the world – but just occasionally, the scent of its lightly woody-floral blossom makes an appearance in a perfume construction, too.

‘The natural extract is tooth-shaking sweet, seemingly (of course, it isn´t in reality),’ explains perfumer Andy Tauer, and smells like a raspberry under LSD influence. (I miss any experience there, but I imagine what it might be like!)  In my perfumery work, I use synthetics for raspberry chords, too. Let´s call them “raspberry coupé”. They’re like berry clay that you can form and shape in all directions.’

He continues: ‘I do not use that many fruit chords in my creations, but raspberry is just perfect with roses. And jasmine. I sometimes wonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are so enchanting. Maybe it is because it brings together the ethereal pleasure of scent and the down-to-earth joy of pampering our body with food. One fine day I will buy a few kilos of real raspberry extract, though, and make my ultimate fruity Tauer.’

Smell raspberry in:

Guerlain Insolence
Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh
Marc Jacobs Oh Lola!
Paco Rabanne Lady Million

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