Every now and again, a frisson of excitement ripples through the world of perfumery – news of a launch that buoys up even the most cynical of the beauty press. And with five fragrances built around the concept of the halcyon days of Art Deco design and that golden era of fine perfumery, we were delighted to be invited to the rather fitting setting of London’s Cafe Royal, for a sniffing session with Atelier Des Ors founder and Artistic Director, Jean-Phillipe Clermont.
‘Perfume – per fumum, meaning ‘through smoke’ – has always been associated to divinity. Just like gold in every civilisation, by extension it symbolises the pursuit of perfection and the quest of absolute. These are values we stand for and which are reunited in our fragrances,’ he explained.
Jean-Phillipe’s background is in the business of fine hand-made cigars, a process which he explained is very close to perfumery in sourcing the perfect fragrant blend. ‘I was enthralled by the evocative power and mystery of blue flames and those wreaths of scented smoke…’ Associating with master craftsmen is in his blood – his grandparents specialised in selling fine glass and china and would spend hours explaining the manufacturing process to him, along with the history behind the pieces of art they so treasured.
With the dual inspirations of fragrant smoke and exquisite design fanning the flames, Jean-Phillipe found himself becoming obsessed with fragrance (it happens to the best of us), and the idea of uniting these talents within a perfume house that could harmonise the best of the past with a distinctly modern wearability – and a celebration of true craftsmanship and art – finally took hold…
Aube Rubis ‘Inspired by the life cycle and dawn, Aube Ruis is a celebration to life and light. A sparkling prelude of grapefruit and blackcurrant speaks of the early morning coolness that then radiates light and warmth when the sun stands high in the sky. Closing on a rich, warm accord with the sensual elegance of sage and earthy patchouli, this is an attractive and woody fruity fragrance built around luxuriously faceted patchouli, dressed with sensual and elegant vetiver.’
Top notes: bergamot, grapefruit, blackcurrant
Heart notes: sage, violet, iris
Base notes: patchouli Prisma, Haitian vetiver, praline
Lune Feline ‘Radiating seduction and temptation, like a magnetic star, it captures everyone’s attention – a symphony of dark and gourmand notes inspired by the moon. Opening on vibrant accords of warm spices melting with intense and precious woods in its heart, dark and animalic vanilla pods and sensual orchid are warmed with balsamic notes and musk, conveying a richly gourmand trail…’
Top notes: cinnamon, cardamom, ambre gris, pink pepper
Heart notes: green notes, cedarwood, ambre gris, styrax, precious wood
Base notes: Tahitian vanilla, Peru balsam, musk
Rose Omeyyade ‘An intense and bewitching velvety fragrance inspired by the precious and captivating Damask rose. Named after the Umayyad dynasty, it tells of the grandeur of the lavishly decorated Levant palaces. A resounding note to sensuality and refinement, once captured in Ambréeist paintings, the woody and amber accords sign a unique and elegant creation.’
Top notes: raspberry, rose buds, pink pepper
Heart notes: patchouli, guaiac wood, brown sugar accords
Base notes: sandalwood, agarwood, amber
Cuir Sacre ‘This powerfully vibrating fragrance was inspired by an Andalusian reverie strolling through the old town of Cordoba. The leathery wood notes are glorified with saffron and vetiver to revive the Cordovan leather heritage – sometimes also referred to as ‘gold leather’. The beautiful ingredients combine to bring a strong and elegant character to the scent.’
Top notes: juniper berries, cardamom, cypress
Heart notes: incense, saffron, cedarwood leaf
Base notes: vetiver, cypriol, leather
Larmes Du Desert ‘Translating as “tears of the desert”, this reflects the tradition of using perfumes in the Middle-East with the use of amber and incense as an homage to this birthplace of perfumery. Gold, myrrh and incense confer a divine ascendance to this beautifully crafted fragrance – a spiritual nectar blending sensuality with a mysterious spiciness in a captivating blend.’
Top notes: patchouli, gaiacwood, cedarwood
Base notes: citrus, benzoin, amber, precious woods
Each bottle is emblazoned with a sun-ray design on the back, representing their affiliation with gold, the symbolism of the power of the sun and light that runs through all the perfumes. What’s more, all the bottles are filled with little flakes of 24ct gold leaf that dance and shimmer like grown-up snow globes – needless to say, we were entirely transported to that golden era and don’t particularly want to return to real life just yet…
Atelier des Ors £225 for 100ml eau de parfum
Try them at Harrods
For a list of worldwide retails, see atelierdesors.com
Written by Suzy Nightingale
