February 2023 - The Perfume Society

Sarah Baker Parfums – Extrait, Extrait, read all about it!

Sarah Baker Parfums are ramping up the ravishing longevity by adding Extrait to their collection; read all about their turned-up-to-eleven appeal, find out how to try sample-sizes and feast your nose on full-size fragrances, here…

Who is Sarah Baker?

Contemporary artist Sarah Baker’s photography, sculpture and films are inspired by ‘fashion, luxury and celebrity’, but little did she know that when she created a fictional fragrance house as part of her artwork, her passion for the project (and the public’s reaction to it) would result in a real-life fragrance house. Still very much artistically inspired, luckily for us they’re now ready to (actually) wear… and these intensified, ultra-long-lasting versions of the scents are even more voluptuously desirable!

What do they smell like?

‘Why be a star when you can be a legend?’ asks the always artistic, eternally glamorous Sarah Baker, introducing perfumer Chris Maurice’s enticing composition for her house. Balancing bergamot’s brightness with the honeyed headiness of orange blossom, petitgrain pierces through the sweet swirl of butterscotch and dusting of sinfully dark chocolate. Cradled in Laos oudh, Suyufi agarwood and amber, it’s the ’24 Karat glow’ of celebrity’s golden age, made manifest.

£145 for 50ml extrait de parfum

This is a classic of the collection that’s been adored since the scents were first launched. Sarah Baker, the nose for this one, is better known as the founder of quirky British house 4160 Tuesdays, but here collaborated with Baker to compose this marvel. Picture it: A fire is roaring in the library. You savour a rare single malt. Warmth and heritage envelope you after a walk through mossy ruins in Scotland’s Highlands. Autumnal.

£145 for 50ml extrait de parfum

Oh now this is completely addictive, we warn you… One to wear when you simply want to smell irresistible – we’ve heard tell of several glossy mag beauty editors who cannot be without this having tried it on their own skin, and having sampled it ourselves, we totally understand why. Playful and sweet with the flavours of childhood appetites, it dries down to something seriously grown-up. A beloved game encountered in the attic, realising years later it was the seed of your adult prowess; the sensual, sexy and clever you.

£145 for 50ml extrait de parfum

Another from the original collection we fell in lust with at first sniff, this swaggers with glamour, it’s that ‘shoulder pads in a bottle’ scent which we all need sometimes for an instant spritz of confidence. It evokes the strength within, a purr of suggestiveness, a soap-opera bottled that could get out of control if you allow. An epic night out. Heady excess and a whiff of scandal. A big cat signifying power and the right to luxury. The only choice when good behaviour is not an option. Decadent.

£145 for 50ml extrait de parfum

Jungle Jezebel

Now this one will surround you in a shield of perfumed protection, but in the most audaciously fabulous way. Too much or not enough? We think it’s the perfect perfume to wear when you need to let your inner diva take the steering wheel and drive you to beyond the limits of your own imagination. Inspired by cult star Divine. A bubblegum mélange of tropical fruits, seductive flowers and predatory tones. A scandalous first impression unveils a balance of audacious combinations. Dare to walk your own path.

£145 for 50ml extrait de parfum

This may well have been the first fragrance we ever smelled from this incredible niche house. Having just launched, we were blown away by the freshness, both of this breezey scent (which wafts the promise of holidays and happiness) and the inventiveness of their collection. Here, fragrance floods Aegean isles, turning fresh on crystal waters. A yacht where a famous affair plays out above and below decks.The sun glistens on your body. A drama that remains fresh forever.

£145 for 50ml extrait de parfum

What a scent, oh boy, you’d better be ready to fall headlong for the lustful trio of tuberose, honey and ylang ylang. It’s fragrances like this that linger so longingly on the skin – like the tingle of a passionate kiss that seemingly last forever in this strength. One to waft when you desire others to follow your trail for hours, unbidden, helplessly seeking another sniff. Ah yes. Cross and double-cross. Who’s fooling who when the stakes are high? A lingering vapour of classic silver screen sophistication. Impeccable.

£145 for 50ml extrait de parfum

There are occasions that a scent rises above a smell and becomes a texture, a colour, a shimmering sensation that evokes so much and plunges you into an olfactive memory. Here, we find ourselves half dreaming, half remembering, waves kissing our legs, warm sun caressing the skin, a feeling of nakedness that sighs contentedly. In a mythical ocean, a sea shell gives birth to the goddess of love. Desire lingers beneath the shimmering surface. Fresh and beautiful, with an undertow. Salty.

£145 for 50ml extrait de parfum

How can you try samples?

We’re thrilled to be able to offer you a way to try these fabulous new extraits altogether – so you don’t have to choose between them, giving each a chance to drape itself irresistibly over your skin and radiate ravishingly in turn. Only then can you truly decide which one(s) must be yours…

Sarah Baker Extraits Discovery Set £45 for 8 x 2ml extrait de parfum

Written by: Suzy Nightingale

Gourmand Scents for Shrove (4160)Tuesday(s) & Beyond

Pancakes or 4150 Tuesdays perfumes? We’ll take both, thanks! And now we have many of these in 50ml or full-size bottles stocked in our shop, it’s even easier to dip in to the deliciousness.

Because we are often what we eat – or at least, our taste preferences can be mirrored in the foods we crave – we thought why not widen this and say ‘we are what we smell’? So, let us match your favourite pancake toppings to some delectably more-ish perfumes from the always delightfully eccentric British niche house of 4160 Tuesdays. Definitely not only for Pancake Day itself – this house has something for every perfumista’s palate. Scents to indulge yourself with far beyond Shrove [4160]Tuesdays…

‘…lemon and orange and real honey absolute for a fresh, tasty top note that makes you lick your lips. So perhaps it’s a gourmand – a scent that smells of tasty food – but the pancake bit is quite subtle – plus they are British pancakes, the sort with no sugar in the batter. Oh who are we kidding? Really it’s all about warm bodies.’

4160 Tuesdays Sunshine and Pancakes from £32 for 15ml eau de parfum

‘It leads out with cedrat, orange, tangerine and bergamot essential oils, juicy fragrance reminding us of eating a lemon top ice cream on a summer day. In reality, after its happy introduction, it’s a gently but perfectly constructed floral chypre with an iris-narcissus-lily of the valley heart, with a generous topping of white chocolate mousse, tonka absolute and musks.’

4160 Tuesdays Fluffy Lemon Top from £85 for 50ml eau de parfum

‘A long time ago in a village perched on a hill, there was a house above a chocolate shop where a beginner perfume-maker’s friend lived… Over the Chocolate Shop is the gloriously rich aroma you can inhale as the chocolatiers make their first batch of pralines in the early morning. Melting cocoa butter, a dash off coffee, hazelnut extract and a drop of vanilla absolute.’

4160 Tuesdays Over the Chocolate Shop from £100 for 50ml eau de parfum

‘A light, fruity floral fragrance which smells like a refreshing glass of fruit punch with a hint of cherry jam. So how do we create a cherry jam note? What we did was to blend citrus essential oils, flowers, woods and raspberry. We’re pleased with its scrumptiousness.’

4160 Tuesdays Fruits of the Tree of Knowledge from £25 for 15ml eau de parfum

‘…the ideal blend of tart with sweet, smooth with sharp, bright with soothing. It’s made with one part tart to 29 parts comfort – the perfect balance between two contrasting themes, a pudding in a perfume. It’s all the delights of smelling rhubarb crumble with custard, a sparky citrus fruit and Yorkshire rhubarb-inspired creamy vanilla delight.’

4160 Tuesdays Rhubarb & Custard 1:29 £100 for 50ml eau de parfum

Perfuming Emily in Paris (Season 3)

If you’ve not already binged Emily in Paris Season 3, have you even got a Netflix account? Continuing our series of matching characters in popular series to scents they should wear, of course I had to pick some perfumes for the cast of Emily in Paris!

Okay, perhaps you avoided it thus far and thought it beneath you, somehow? Well cast off your snobbiness, wind back to the first two seasons and give it a go! There’s a lot of talk about scent, for a start, with an ongoing storyline about the creation of a fragrance and (in the third season) a plot involving Emily trying to save a potential disaster for a lavender farm’s luxury perfume. Fun, frivolous and with some absolutely gorgeous Parisian scenery, it’s one to watch when you just need something easy, breezy and beautiful for a change, and while fans await the much-anticipated fourth season of Emily in Paris, here’s some fragrance choices to explore in the meantime…

Emily (played by Lily Collins) – Lancôme La Vie Est Belle

Optimistic, confident (even though her French, fashion sense and romantic decisions are sometimes shocking) Emily’s joie de vivre often gets her in trouble, but her plucky spirit and great ideas save her. She embodies the joy of this free-spirited fragrance by a trio of top-notch noses (Anne Flipo, Dominique Ropion and Olivier Polge), which was reportedly with 5000 trials in the making. Starring a contemporary, silky iris swagged by radiant orange blossom and sparkling jasmine, its fruitiness is woven with praline (to satisfy her sweet tooth). Pretty, perky, with a long-lasting trail, it’s a scent that says ‘I’m here to stay, and you’re going to love me!’

£65 for 30ml eau de parfum lancome.co.uk

Alfie (Lucien Laviscount) – Jack Piccadilly ’69

Suave, sarcastic, but with a seemingly good heart, Alfie’s the ambitious banker [NB: not a spelling error] who’s fully London-born and proud of it, with no intention of fitting in to the French way of doing things. Piccadilly was the third fragrance from Richard E Grant’s house, and similarly swaggers with pride. Based on Grant’s own first venture to the big city in 1969, and working with talented perfumer Alienor Massenet, these extraordinary memories are evoked via rich patchouli, Earl Grey tea, ginger and leather swirling against the backdrop of a vibrant city, cool cars, petrol fumes, illicit parties, a buzz of excitement. Thrillingly addictive!

£95 for 100ml eau de parfum jackperfume.co.uk

Gabriel (Lucas Bravo) – DS&Durga Bistro Waters

A talented chef conflicted by the ongoing battle between his heart and head (and possibly other parts, too), Gabriel gets away with an awful lot by looking soulfully confused and running his fingers through his hair. While dreaming up new ideas for menu, he should liberally spritz this: a savoury special of juicy green peppers and aromatic, just-chopped herbs with undercurrents of fancy cocktails to follow, late-night lock-ins and snogging the chef (when you really shouldn’t be), this always fun niche house nevertheless serve up seriously great fragrances. It’s the scent of a great night out and, very likely, will scent the morning after the night before.

£148 for 50ml eau de parfum libertylondon.co.uk

Camille (Camille Razat) – Histoire de Parfums This is Not a Blue Bottle 1.2

Ah, Camille – the gal pal unfairly turned love rival with secrets of her own to hide. I think her love of art would be intrigued by this contemporary niche French house’s scent inspired by ‘The Treachery of Images’ – a famously surrealist work from the 1920s by Belgian painter René Magritte. It resonates the dualities of sparkling light and fiery emotions, so perfect for Camille. From a bright beginning of ivy leaf with a fizz of pink pepper, the softness of lilac and lily of the valley are interrupted by passionate ylang ylang’s embrace, with the base of sandalwood and vanilla-lapped musk being sexy in a luminously insouciant but now subversively sexy way.

£105 for 60ml eau de parfum harveynichols.com

Sylvie (‎Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu) – Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche

Being the boss isn’t always easy, especially when you’re not sure you are the boss anymore, and you’re doubting your romantic entanglements; so I think Sylvie would reach for a classic that reminds her of more carefree times and boosts her confidence. Completely chic but with a bohemian soul, Rive Gauche was launched in 1971 and – shockingly, then – presented in tin casing so a woman on-the-go could throw it in her bag . Timelessly French Chypre in style but with that rebellious Left Bank spirit. Soapy, sparkling aldehydic bubbles burst to clean-cut woodiness with claws out, while the rich oakmoss dry down is an irresistibly seductive purr.

£75 for 100ml eau de toilette boots.com

Luc (Bruno Gourey) – Parle Moi de Parfum Woody Perfecto

Always dapper, slightly eccentric, but ever dependable in a crisis – even when everyone seems to desert Emily, Luc is a friend indeed and thus deserves a scent to match his quirky but warm personality. Composed by master perfumer Michel Almairac (who runs the house with his sons), expect mischievous names paired with immaculately blended fragrances that blend great taste with not taking yourself too seriously. This one wafts aromatic notes of coffee and cool, rooty vetiver with undercurrents of naughtiness implied by a smooth infusion of leather. Symbolising freedom, the scent is perfect for offices or star-studded parties alike.

£100 for 50ml eau de parfum lessenteurs.com

Julien (Samuel Arnold) – Christian Louboutin Loubicrown

Dramatic? As if! Okay, well sometimes he can go a tiny bit over the top in his reactions, but Julien’s tantrums never last that long, and he’s one of those friends you’d definitely want to party with (as long as you weren’t held responsible for their actions). Never exactly averse to a designer name with a bit of boldness and bling, his ever-colourful wardrobe needs a fragrance that’s just as fantastic, and I reckon he’d love the crowned bottle, too. The scent itself is one that beckons the red carpet via oodles of cedar, deliciously resinous patchouli and a tonka bean accord that will draw crowds of admirers for another sniff.

£235 for 90ml eau de parfum eu.christianlouboutin.com

Mindy (Ashley Park) – L’Orchestre Parfum Rose Trombone

Gregarious, loyal and super-talented, Mindy is a fave of Emily in Paris fans – a magnificent singer with a difficult background of a family who definitely don’t approve of her busking career choices. Mindy’s fortunes may be changing, but that means extra complications for her romantic life. This niche French perfume house couldn’t be more perfect – all their fragrances have songs inspired by them, written by world class musicians; this one’s a beautiful raspberry-tinged rose that turns into a smoky smooch of vanilla-laced rum. Think: torrid glances, forbidden kisses and the sultry voice of a chauntress rising above it all, aching with emotion, hushing a crowd.

£138 for 100ml eau de parfum jovoyparis.uk

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Guerlain Sakura Cherry Blossom Limited Edition – ‘When spring is reborn’

Since the year 2000, every spring the limited edition Guerlain Sakura Cherry Blossom is a breathtaking moment to pause and immerse ourselves in beauty, and oh how welcome that chance can be. Just as Japanese rituals around cherry blossom have taken place for centuries, Guerlain’s annual celebration of scent, exquisite artisan craftsmanship and nature combine in the most breathtaking way…

Says Guerlain: ‘For the House, this is the perfect opportunity to combine original artistic collaboration with the most virtuosic creators of artistic crafts. This year is an especially outstanding occasion, as it marks the 170th anniversary of the iconic Bee Bottle.

For its precious 2023 Millésime, Guerlain has asked the Ateliers Vermont, a prestigious Parisian embroidery house, to create the magical adornment of its Bee Bottle. A delicate cherry tree branch in blossom, nestled on a grosgrain bow, which expresses both the peerless expertise of French Haute Couture and the timeless poetry of the most moving of Japanese traditions.

To celebrate a poetic ritual the Japanese call hanami (literally “flower viewing”), friends and families get together to admire sakuras. Under the cherry trees, the delicate blooms fall without wilting, “flower rafts” float on streams, and petals flutter in the breeze like delicate butterflies.’

The bottles are snapped up by collectors, each of them hand-adorned and art pieces to treasure forever, and each year we think: oh, this is the most beautiful version yet! Of course, the fragrance itself must reflect the ethereal, life-affirming beauty of the cherry blossom spectacle itself:

‘Perfumers must therefore invent a fragrance which can express both the infinite grace of its flower-laden branches and the emotion of those who gaze at them,’ Guerlain explain.

‘First, bergamot, an olfactory signature of the House, sheds its golden light on the fragrance. A fresh, subtle green tea accord recalls another of Japan’s ancient rituals, while threading the luminous overture with the heart of the fragrance through its floral tones. In the heart notes, the Guerlain Perfumers, artisans of the sublime, have embroidered the delicate petals of the sakura blossom one by one onto the precious olfactory materials of their palette… Tender facets of almond, cherry, and powdery lilac, enhanced by a pearl-white jasmine, conjure their airy corollas. Carried by a breeze of white musks, these flowers fluttering on slender branches herald the rebirth of spring with the most delicate of fragrances.’

Guerlain Sakura Cherry Blossoms is priced at €700 in Guerlain boutiques

Scents to love yourself (show some self-care – for Valentine’s or just whenever!)

Why not show some self-care this Valentine’s (or whenever, just because)? We spend so long thinking of others, and yes ’tis the season for romance etc etc; but maybe you’re done with the oodles of over-priced single roses, have already given loved ones lots, or simply aren’t in (or into) romantic relationships right now?

Well we’re with you, and happen to think you deserve to treat yourself for a change. So, have a browse and decide which of these you like the sound of, then fall back in love with yourself with some of these scents… (Okay, okay – you can treat someone else, too, if you really want; but you know what they say? Self care isn’t selfish, so make sure you do you, first).

Map of the Heart Discovery Set £35

Co-founders Sarah Blair and Jeffrey Darling created Map of the Heart – award-winning fragrances that come from a passion for telling stories and their understanding that scent can transport the wearer in a split second. Proudly Australian, each fragrance by perfumer Jaques Huclier has a seam of sandalwood at its core, and it throbs life through the perfumed pulse of this niche house’s scents, using indigenously and sustainably sourced Santalum spicatum. Understanding that scent can transport the wearer just as words, images and films can whisk us to another world – this set showcases their wearable art forms, and is a wonderful gift for the artistic travellers who deserve some new adventures to explore.

Molton Brown Rhubarb & Rose (just one of the scents in the Exquisite Essences Discovery Box: £23 / £19 for VIPs)

Molton Brown are right on the trend (as always) of grown-up versions of good-enough-to-eat fragrances, here firmly rooted in cherished childhood memories of baking with rhubarb’s unique tartness sprinkled by just enough sweetness. In this utterly addictive eau de parfum, those seeking scrumptiousness can indulge with joyfully juicy raspberry and a vivacious kick of pink pepper enhancing rhubarb’s sparkle, as luscious lychee and the tender peony showcase rose’s powdered charm, with a soothingly sensual base of cedarwood and musk swathing you in a gossamer soft trail. This is one to wear when you want to smell utterly scrumptious, and simply can’t get enough of yourself. Delicious, darling!

edeniste Love Lifeboost™ £68 for 30ml eau de parfum

We adore the description the house give this scents, saying it’s ‘A gesture of scented self-care that twists the traditional ideals of love into a new and meaningful ritual of confidence, compassion and generosity, to oneself and to others.’ And it’s not just words – edeniste back up every claim of the way their fragrances make you feel with extensive research. Having worked with top neuroscientists to prove the efficacy of the way our brains react to the scents, this new addition couldn’t be more timely. Ripe cherries, green leaves, radiant jasmine and tuberose with a duo of roses feel like a wearable giggle of delight, the smooth, woody dry down a hug that keeps going.

La Montaña Wisteria Candle £39

Oh, this wisteria’s as lush and beautiful as an idyllic cottage, the kind where those stunning flowers have scampered up and settled en-masse, garlanded so stunningly as to make you gasp. Says Cassandra Hall, the vivacious founder of the house: ‘We have a long history with wisteria, from the flower-festooned walls in Granada on our first wedding anniversary to the wisteria we tried to grow in a pot next to our front door in England. But now (finally!) we have it growing abundantly in our garden here in Spain and it’s a divine scent that says ‘home’ to us. Wisteria is a stunning, one-of-a-kind fragrance anywhere, but when it’s flowering in pure mountain air, the beauty of its perfume is life-affirming.’ Affirm your life now by burning this beautiful candle, and lightening even the greyest of days!

Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle Le Parfum (Try it in our Scintillating Scents Discovery Box: £33 / £29 VIPs)

We can just imagine the fun that Givaudan’s Sonia Constant and Quentin Bisch – a most mischievous creative pairing – got up to here, fully intending to lead us into temptation, casting an olfactory spell via a succulent, sensual cocktail of vanilla, pear, almond, belladonna, musk, bergamot and roasted tonka, which dance around each other like nothing so much as naughty nymphs. Having smelled this sample we think you might succumb to the full-sized rose-bedecked bottle, but you’ll definitely agree it’s 100% fun. This is for those of us who like to kick up their heels (even if it’s just a kitchen disco), so let your hair down and live it up with La Belle!

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Get to Know Nancy Meiland – founder & perfumer of her own (brilliant!) British house

Nancy Meiland is a brilliant British perfumer, now with her own gorgeous boutique in Brighton; but let’s get to know her (and her scented style), starting with where it all began…

Based in East Sussex, Nancy divides her time between town and country, explaining that ‘the creative process of gathering sensory impressions and honing them into a formula is a vital one. Once a blank canvas, the formula sheet acts as a metaphor – and gradually emerges essentially as a kind of poem, with body, light and shade and a life of its own.’ (It amuses Nancy, looking back, that she often had essays returned to her emblazoned with ‘too flowery’ as a criticism. ‘It figures!,’ she says.)

Beginning her career as an apprentice to one of the UK’s experts in custom perfumery, in London, creating signature scents for those coveting ‘something highly individual and special…’ before launching Nancy Meiland Parfums, her decade-long journey through fragrance also saw Nancy co-run the former School of Perfumery, act as a consultant for independent perfume houses, work on collaborations with Miller Harris, and speak on the subject of fragrance at events nationwide.

Now with her own artisanal line, she has the knack of conjuring emotional responses with lyrical fragrances that are contemplative yet so effortlessly sophisticated, based on scent memories of her own, but inviting the wearer to go on their own fragrant journey with every spritz.

Writing about Nancy Meiland for The Perfume Society, beauty writer (and proud Londoner) Viola Levy once admitted that ‘…Nancy Meiland’s fragrances – an ode to the beauty of nature – would make even the most hard-nosed city girl like yours truly want to kick off her Louboutins and go skipping and spinning through a meadow Julie Andrews-style. (I feel similarly towards other UK perfumers inspired by green spaces, there’s just something about the earthy, rain-sodden British countryside that lends itself rather well to perfume…)

You always have an image of someone in your head before you meet them. To be honest, I was expecting Nancy to be a softly-spoken, Brönte-reading country girl (albeit a glamorous one, à la Savannah Miller), pausing our conversation to whimsically gaze into the distance every now and again. A far cry from the chatty, effervescent blonde sat opposite me – and all the better for it. I’m surprised to find out that Nancy is a city girl herself – a fellow North-Londoner no less – whose fond memories of visiting her grandparents as a child inspired her olfactory journey.’

You can watch a fascinating in-depth Q + A with our co-founder Jo Fairley interviewing Nancy Meiland on the video below…

And of course you can read about each of the fragrances (and her inspirations for them) plus the full story of the how the house began, on our page dedicated to Nancy Meiland Parfums.

So-knowledgeable, always engaging, we’re thrilled Nancy now has the scented space to experience the perfumes in person – well worth a visit to the seaside to go on your own mini sniffari to seek them out!

Nancy Meiland Parfums, 2 Nile Street, Brighton, BH1 1HW
Open Wednesday to Sunday, 11am – 4pm (Saturdays 11am – 5pm)

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Funny Valentine – tips & tricks to buying a scent for someone you love

Valentines Day – love it or loathe it – is just around the corner, and it’s still the day that generates the most fragrance sales, peaking at 42% of all prestige beauty products sold. So if you’re thinking of splashing out on a fragrance for your significant other, follow our guide to ensure a scented success…

If you just have no idea where to start

Don’t panic and just buy something random! The best idea is to get a curated Discovery Box of fabulous mini sizes and samples from a wide range of fragrance houses, that way they can start exploring and trying them all in the comfort of their own home, and most importantly, in their own time. Each box is carefully put together to include something for all tastes – so they’re bound to fall for one of them.

Once they’ve found ‘the one’ (or perhaps several) you can then buy a full size later, safe in the knowledge they’ve already fallen for it.

If you already know what they love (and they don’t want to change)

Great! But instead of buying just another bottle, why not have a look at matching products available, such as a gorgeously decadent bath oil, rich body cream or even a fragranced hair mist. It’s often possible to find travel-size versions of perfumes at this time of year, and if you really wanted to push the boat out – how wonderful it would be to book a couple of nights in a nice hotel or day spa trip, and add the ticket to the box of mini sizes in a golden envelope! (Well, we can dream…)

If you already know what they love (and they DO fancy a change)

This is a fantastic starting point, now all you need to do is type the name of that scent into our genius Fragrance Finder, and the clever algorithm – based on information we source directly from the fragrance houses and perfumers themselves – will suggest six new fragrances that, while different from the original you typed, share a similar mood, character or key ingredients.It really works!

If you’ve an idea of fragrances they like, but aren’t sure which they have

A ‘selection box’ of scents showcasing a range of fragrances from the same house is your best option, here. Brand Boxes give you breathing room if they happen to have already got one of them, but haven’t yet explored the rest of their range. It’s a brilliant way to ensure they’ll love such a thoughtful gift, while encouraging them to smell their way through others they perhaps wouldn’t have thought about trying!

Written by Suzy Nightingale

Viva Magenta: Pantone Colour of the Year 2023 Expressed in Perfumes

Viva Magenta is the Pantone Colour of the Year 2023 and, given the many links between colour, mood and smell, I thought it was only right to find some scents that vividly help express this vibrant colour in fragrant form…

Each year, the influential Pantone Colour Institute chooses a ‘colour of the year’ which guides fashion, interior design and all manner of micro trends for the coming seasons. For this year’s choice of ‘Viva Magenta’, Pantone explains their thinking, and what the colour represents emotionally…

An unconventional shade for an unconventional time

Pantone’s Colour of The Year, Viva Magenta 18-750, vibrates with vim and vigour. It is a shade rooted in nature descending from the red family and expressive of a new signal of strength. Viva Magenta is brave and fearless, a pulsating colour whose exuberance promotes a joyous and optimistic celebration, writing a new narrative.

This year’s Colour of The Year is powerful and empowering. It is an animated red that revels in pure joy, encouraging experimentation and self-expression without restraint, an electrifying, and a boundless shade that is manifesting as a stand-out statement. PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta welcomes anyone and everyone with the same verve for life and rebellious spirit. It is a colour that is audacious, full of wit and inclusive of all.

As a nuanced crimson red tone that presents a balance between warm and cool, PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta is also a hybrid colour, one that comfortably straddles the physical and virtual in our multi-dimensional world. It is assertive, but not aggressive, a carmine red that does not boldly dominate but instead takes a “fist in a velvet glove” approach. Exuding dynamism, PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta is a transformative red tone capable of driving design to create a more positive future.

Reading about their inspirations for Viva Magenta, it struck me the language used in the Pantone report was very similar to how fragrance houses describe the emotional resonance of their scents – and little wonder, given the myriad threads that connect colour, perfume and mood.

‘The evidence from numerous studies demonstrates that simply changing the colour of a fragrance can change the way it smells to us’ –– Professor Charles Spence, Head of Oxford University Crossmodal Research Laboratory

‘Seeing red’, ‘feeling blue’, going ‘green with envy’ – we’ve linked colours with emotions for centuries. But there is science behind the pairing of certain hues with sentiment and sensation. And fascinatingly, some of your favourite fragrances are packaged in tones designed to suit the mood the scent is trying to evoke; indeed, they may even have deliberately dyed the ‘juice’ a particular shade on the colour spectrum to evoke specific feelings, provoke memories and metaphorically ‘colour’ the way you smell them.

‘Our perfumers can type the name of colour in our database and it will pull up a list of ingredients proven to stimulate certain emotions and responses in people.’ –– Céline Manetta, PHD, CSI Global Innovation Senior Manager IFF

We could all do with some extra bravery, joy and exuberance in our lives right now, so given these crossmodal (overlapping of senses) connections, I’ve chosen some fragrances that use magenta as a touchstone to bring this powerful, bright and uncompromising colour to the fore as we wear them on our skin….

Armani Prive Magenta Tanzanite
Composed as a tribute to the spectacular colours of Africa’s landscape, a cool breeze of cardamom is warmed by furling plumes of honeyed tobacco smoke, spicy ginger and the energising scent of coffee. A lively dance of contrasts, this sizzles pleasingly.
£260 for 100ml eau de parfum
armanibeauty.co.uk

Juliette Has a Gun Mmmm
Even the name was designed to be onomatopoeically pleasing, and the delicious melange of ripe raspberry, geranium and bright neroli conjure forbidden fruits, while orange blossom and tuberose hypnotise the senses to a deliciously drenched creamy musk trail.
£90 for 50ml eau de parfum
selfridges.com

Mugler Angel Nova
This iteration twists ripe raspberry and succulent lychee with damask rose atop a darker base of Akigalawood and resinous benzoin. Definitely one to try if you clutched your pearls and backed away from the original. This is pretty, fresh but with a burst of petal power.
£77 for 50ml eau de parfum
theperfumeshop.com

Parfums de Marly Oriana
Plush, velvety fruitiness conjures an 18th century French mistress idly sucking pastilles while sighing on a chaise lounge. Pale flowers tremble, a sudden decision is made to give in to passion, and the soft, skin-like scent of ambrette billows beguilingly for hours.
£120 for 30ml eau de parfum
harrods.com

Goutal Rose Pompom
Exuding playfulness a sparkle of blackcurrant and raspberry are swirled with armfuls of dewy roses, a flurry of petals and joyful pops of pink pepper reminding you of love, light, laughter with friends. Happy memories meld with the scent to create a wearable smile.
£76 for 50ml eau de toilette
houseoffraser.co.uk

Jusbox Sirens & Sailors
Paying homage to the unforgettable British soul singer Amy Winehouse via a kiss of peachy osmanthus, the smoky swagger of booziness in the heart softens to suede-like whispers and a smooth patchouli base resonates thrillingly until way past your bedtime.
£168 for 78ml eau de parfum
selfridges.com

Lancôme La Vie est Belle Intensément
Affirming ‘happiness as the ambition, as a way to live life to the fullest and without making any sacrifices’ if ever a scent invited positivity, it’s LVEB’s euphoric burst of pink pepper, bergamot and raspberry, with a floral, velvety heart and a pulsing baseline of vanilla and iris.
From £87 for 50ml eau de parfum
lancome.co.uk

Written by Suzy Nightingale